The wardrobe
Custom Shirts
A custom shirt starts with an individual pattern for your neck posture, shoulder slope, body and arms. Collar, cuffs and cloth are then selected for how you wear it, with a tie, open-necked or beneath a jacket. Custom shirts start at $145.
Fit the neck, body and sleeves separately
A neck size and sleeve length cannot describe the entire upper body. We assess the shoulders, chest, waist and hips independently, then establish the ease you prefer. The sleeve needs appropriate room through the upper arm and forearm as well as the correct length.
Your natural stance matters. A forward shoulder or a difference between the two sides can affect how the shirt hangs. During shirt fitting, we check for a clean resting line and enough room to reach and sit comfortably.
Develop collar and cuffs together
A collar frames the face and sits inside the jacket neckline. Spread, point length, height and structure should reflect whether you wear a tie, leave the neck open or need a formal shirt. The collar guide explains the choices.
Cuffs are sized for your wrists, with additional room for a watch where needed. Coordinate their opening with sleeve length so the cuff rests in the intended position. Cuff styles can change the level of formality without changing the whole shirt.
| Area | What we establish | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Neck and collar | Size, posture and preferred closure | Comfort and the frame around the face |
| Shoulders | Width, slope and asymmetry | Upper-body balance |
| Body | Chest, waist, hips and ease | Drape while standing and sitting |
| Sleeves | Individual length and shape | Reach and a clean resting line |
| Cuffs | Wrist fit and watch allowance | Sleeve position and everyday use |
Select the cloth in person
White shirting varies in opacity, texture and weight. A soft twill, crisp poplin and textured Oxford can produce quite different garments. Review a sample against the light and alongside your jacket. Shirt cloth should be chosen for the intended use, not solely for softness in the hand.
Mother-of-pearl buttons are standard on our shirts, with no additional charge. Complimentary monogramming is also available, with the wording and placement agreed with your clothier. Split-yoke construction is available, allowing the two sides of the upper back to be shaped and the pattern placement developed for the selected cloth.
Establish the first pattern
Custom shirts start at $145. The final price for your cloth and design is confirmed before production. New clients are measured in a showroom, and the resulting record is retained and refined for future orders.
Explore the shirt collection, then bring the jacket, tie or watch you expect to wear most often. Those details help turn a shirt specification into a garment that belongs in your wardrobe.
Build a useful shirt rotation
Start with the situations that recur, then allow for laundering and travel. Use this four-shirt example as a starting point, adjusting it for your own week. A man who seldom wears a tie may want two relaxed shirts before a second business shirt.
| Example shirt | Role in a small rotation | Detail to decide |
|---|---|---|
| White poplin | Business meetings and occasions that call for a crisp shirt | Opacity and collar shape with your usual tie |
| Pale blue twill | Another business option with visible texture | Weight, surface and cuff preference |
| Blue-and-white stripe | Variation beneath plain tailoring | Stripe scale alongside jacket and tie patterns |
| Textured Oxford | More relaxed tailoring or an open collar | Collar structure and whether the hem will be tucked |
A formal shirt has a separate role. Choose it for the tuxedo and fastenings it must accompany rather than assuming a white business shirt performs every evening function.
Questions and answers
Can each sleeve be a different length?
Yes. We assess the required length on each arm and coordinate it with cuff fit.
Are mother-of-pearl buttons standard?
Yes. Mother-of-pearl buttons are our shirt standard, with no additional charge. The selected shirt design determines their placement and finish.
Can I have extra room for a watch?
Yes. We can provide allowance at the relevant cuff based on your watch and preferred fit.
Can my first shirt be ordered from measurements I send?
New clients are measured in a showroom so we can assess posture and proportions as well as dimensions.
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Everything we make is cut for one man.
Always custom. Never off the rack.
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