Cloth & mills
Wool Super Numbers Explained
A wool Super number describes fiber fineness. Super 100’s allows a maximum average diameter of 18.75 microns; Super 150’s, 16.25 microns. A higher number means finer wool, while weave, weight and finishing determine how the cloth wears.
What a Super number measures
The Super scale describes the average diameter of the wool fibers. As the number rises, the permitted average diameter falls. This tells you about fineness; it does not measure yarn count, cloth weight or tailoring quality.
At Enzo, we discuss the actual composition and intended use of the cloth. For blends, understand what is being described rather than assuming a wool designation explains every fiber present.
Super numbers in microns
A micron is one thousandth of a millimetre. The following lookup uses the maximum average wool-fiber diameter in the Federal Trade Commission’s published guidance. The limit applies to the average, not to the diameter of every individual fiber.
| Super designation | Maximum average wool-fiber diameter |
|---|---|
| Super 100’s | 18.75 microns |
| Super 110’s | 18.25 microns |
| Super 120’s | 17.75 microns |
| Super 130’s | 17.25 microns |
| Super 140’s | 16.75 microns |
| Super 150’s | 16.25 microns |
| Super 160’s | 15.75 microns |
| Super 170’s | 15.25 microns |
| Super 180’s | 14.75 microns |
| Super 190’s | 14.25 microns |
| Super 200’s | 13.75 microns |
The scale moves toward finer wool as the Super number rises. It does not measure cloth weight, yarn count, weave density or the number of working years a suit will provide. Read the fiber-composition label as well, particularly for a blend.
Softness is one quality among several
Fine wool can have a soft, appealing handle. For frequent wear, compare that softness with the cloth’s structure, weight and recovery. A well-chosen lower-Super cloth may suit a busy rotation particularly well.
| Decision | Information to weigh alongside fineness |
|---|---|
| Frequent business wear | Weave, yarn, weight, rotation and care |
| An occasional formal suit | Surface, drape and the appearance in the intended light |
| Warm-weather use | Openness of weave, lining and construction |
| Travel | Recovery after compression and practical care |
| A particularly soft garment | Handle, composition and expected frequency of wear |
See our cloth collection for how these choices fit together. Choose the cloth whose drape and handle suit the way you dress.
Judge the sample and specification together
Handle several suitable cloths without letting the numbers dictate your first impression. Examine how they fall, how much surface sheen they show and whether the texture suits the intended garment. Then read the specifications and ask what explains the differences.
For a travel suit, the most useful cloth may have a crisp structure rather than an exceptionally delicate feel. For an occasional evening suit, surface and softness may take priority.
Fit and care influence how cloth wears
Pattern development and fit remain essential. A cloth can pull or wear unnecessarily if the garment is too tight in the wrong place. Good care and adequate rotation also matter.
Your clothier can help compare suitable options at different prices and explain why a particular one matches your routine. Custom suit pricing should be understood through the selected order, with the final cost confirmed before production.
When choosing a custom suit, compare two or three cloths suited to the same purpose before deciding whether finer wool improves the garment you want. The number becomes useful when it explains a difference you can feel and intend to wear.
Questions and answers
Does Super 200 mean the suit is twice as good as Super 100?
No. The numbers are not a linear score for garment quality, durability or value.
Is a higher Super number always more durable?
No. Fineness alone cannot establish durability; the complete cloth and how it is worn matter.
Is a Super number a thread count?
No. Do not read a wool Super designation as a shirting thread count or stitch count.
Should I avoid fine wool for regular wear?
Not automatically. Discuss the specific cloth, your rotation and the conditions in which it will be worn.
Does the micron limit describe every fiber?
No. The threshold describes the average wool-fiber diameter. Individual fibers vary.
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