What's A Gentleman To Do When His Suit No Longer Fits?
Even suits made with the perfect fit in mind are not immune from the one universal thing that keeps tailors around the globe in business. And that thing would be us, or that annoying tendency for everyone's dimensions and body shape to change over periods of time. It's always disappointing when you have a wedding coming up and your tuxedo no longer is as snug as it used to be, or your best suit barely accommodates a tucked-in dress shirt for an important cocktail party just around the corner. So what can we do about these inconveniences, other than have a wardrobe the size of an entire department store rack?
Nothing really comes close to the ease at which a custom suit fits around the contours of the body. When you go custom, every single stitch of your suit's fabric is put together with your comfort and style exclusively in mind. Longtime customers swear by it, and recent converts more often than not never look back at off-the-rack options available in big-box department stores. With a suit that's made just for you, gone are the days where you have to worry about your collars bunching up or trousers that are either too tight or too baggy.
But even suits made with the perfect fit in mind are not immune from the one universal thing that keeps tailors around the globe in business. And that thing would be us, or that annoying tendency for everyone's dimensions and body shape to change over periods of time. Whether you overindulged during Thanksgiving and Christmas or started that fad diet that's really paying off, these fluctuations happen to all of us, and often at very inconvenient times. It's always disappointing when you have a wedding coming up and your tuxedo no longer is as snug as it used to be, or your best suit barely accommodates a tucked-in dress shirt for an important cocktail party just around the corner. So what can we do about these inconveniences, other than have a wardrobe the size of an entire department store rack?
Going to a tailor or even buying a new suit are the likely options that first come to mind; perhaps even a new belt or shedding a layer or two might seem like a quick fix in a pinch. We'll certainly touch on these remedies, but there might be a better way to stay one step ahead of the body's tendency to be a stubborn creature
of habit. Purchasing a handful of suits ahead of time within your expected size ranges might just allow you to account for all those dimensional fluctuations in the future, but as you already know this isn't the only way to deal with such a problem that we've all encountered at some point or another. In this piece, we'll give you options for what to do whether you gain some or lose some over the course of a year.
--Tailoring--
Whether your suit feels like it's bursting at the seams or floating around you like parachute pants from the '90s, fitting problems are normally handled first and foremost by a custom tailor. You take your suit in, the tailor takes your measurements, they make the necessary adjustments, and you're on your merry way. Going to a tailor is also relatively inexpensive, as it doesn't require you to purchase a new suit to get that perfect fit you're looking for. In some cases, if you purchased your suit from the same tailor, minor adjustments and alterations are complimentary, which further reduces the cost of either too much exercise or too many Christmas parties.
If you need to add or take away a few inches from your waist or add a little more room in your shoulders, the benefits of going to a tailor outweigh any other remedies to potential fitting problems. Although it's easier to take away rather than add a few inches to your suit, a tailor shouldn't encounter anything too insurmountable so long as the adjustments and alterations you need are slight. The turnaround time also tends to be very quick, and you might even be able to pick up
your altered suit on the same day you drop it off, depending on how busy your tailor is at any given time.
The only drawback you might encounter when going to a tailor to adjust your suit measurements is that the changes you require might be impossible due to the physical limitations of your suit's material. In circumstances where the measurements have to be reduced or expanded drastically, it may be more cost-effective to just purchase a new suit rather than pay a tailor to reconstruct a new one out of the suit that you do have.
In most cases, however, the consensus seems to be that going to a tailor to make adjustments is the best option for alterations within a few inches. By doing so when necessary, you will extend the longevity of your suit while you simultaneously save money.
--Buying A New Suit--
Of course, not all measurement adjustments can be handled by a tailor, and herein lies the sometimes dreaded option of having to buy a brand new suit just so you can get that perfect comfort level you so desire. Whether you lost a ton of weight or decided to bulk up for a body-building competition, buying a new suit—rather than trying to tailor an existing one—might be the better course of action in these scenarios. The process of buying a new suit nowadays is pretty straightforward, and you may not even need to show up to a physical location for the manufacturers and tailors to take your initial measurements.
Even if you could get away with altering a suit you already own, buying a new one has several benefits. When a tailor makes a new suit for you, in theory it will fit
more precisely to your body type as it is right now, without the need to alter, widen, or strip away any suit material at an additional appointment, which will save you time in the process. Buying a new suit will also allow you to upgrade any minor style considerations if you so choose. Maybe you'd rather have peak lapels or an American-style suit rather than a British or Italian one, and vice versa.
The only drawbacks to buying a new suit, of course, are the cost and the possibility that your new suit may not fit you as well in the future, regardless of whether you bulk up or slim down. But that's a risk we all take whenever we buy a suit at any given point in time.
Overall, the consensus when it comes to buying a new suit is that it's a great option for those who want to expand the variety of their wardrobe as well as save time.
--Layers--
We've all been in a bit of a bind as far as formal events go. Your best friend is getting married, and after months of anticipation you realize that your suit is either a little too tight or so loose that your belt won't even effectively hold your pants up, the day before the ceremony. If you didn't plan ahead, there isn't much you can do to remedy a situation like this one, but in some cases, adding or taking away layers to your outfit can be just enough to alleviate any awkward fitting or discomfort.
If your suit is too constricting, consider foregoing an undershirt and do your best to wear a dress shirt that is made from thinner fabrics. A quarter- or half-inch may not seem like much, but that small amount of extra room can make a tighter-
fitting suit a little less uncomfortable, and comfort is important if you have to be wearing one for several hours.
Conversely, if your suit is suddenly too loose after swearing off bread and bacon, you might be better off wearing a thicker undershirt with your attire and a dress shirt that's made from wool or cotton rather than linen or silk.
Adding or subtracting layers to your outfit can be beneficial in that doing so doesn't cost anything at all and also doesn't consume any additional time. However, the drawbacks outweigh the positives in this case. Layering, or stripping them away, tends to work best only when your measurements have changed ever so slightly. Bear in mind that this method is not meant to be a long-term solution, and it should only be used as a temporary fix in last-minute emergency situations. You're better off buying a new suit or going to a tailor, but if those options are not immediately available to you, using layers to adjust the fit slightly is worth at least a try.
--Buying Multiple Suits--
In order to give yourself a wider pool of options to choose from when your measurements inevitably fluctuate over time, consider keeping more than just one or two suits in your wardrobe. If your measurements don't change too drastically, this method might be able to eliminate the need to go to a tailor altogether, as multiple suits tend to fit differently from each other by slight degrees. We would caution, however, not to deviate too much from your standard measurements, as buying suits that are too big or too small would be largely pointless; you want suits
that fit you as closely as possible at this moment, not necessarily ones that may or may not fit years or even decades later.
In addition to going up or down a size, having multiple suits at your disposal has the benefit of increasing variety and versatility in your formal attire, and you'll never be short on style no matter what type of event you have to attend, whether you're headed to a black-tie wedding or getting ready for another routine day at the office. All in all, the pros of owning multiple suits go far beyond just the ability to easily go between sizes when your measurements fluctuate.
As it is with buying a new suit, buying multiple suits comes with the potential drawback of being cost-prohibitive. On average, a single person tends to own about a half-dozen suits, so there's no reason to go overboard and buy 50 or 100, unless of course cost and storage are not issues and you want as many style and size permutations as possible. For all practical purposes, however, owning anywhere between 5-10 suits is usually sufficient to fulfill all of your style and fitting needs.
Although buying multiple suits offers a solution to potential measurement fluctuations down the road, at the end of the day, the most effective and balanced way to deal with fitting problems is to do what people have been doing for centuries, and that's simply going to your custom tailor. As most people's measurements only fluctuate slightly over time, in most cases a tailor will be able to handle any adjustments without a problem.
If you've been eyeing a custom suit for some time and want to ensure that your measurements give you an ideal balance between comfort and style, stop into an Enzo Custom showroom or make an online appointment with us, where one of
our expert clothiers will take care of everything you need when it comes to formal wear and achieving that perfect fit
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