Trouser Style Types: Pleats, Creases, Stripes, and Everything In Between

By now, if you've been keeping up with our blog, you might think you have a pretty good grasp on everything you need to know when it comes to custom suits and formal wear.  But even with such a comprehensive breadth of information, we still do our best to bring something new to the table as often as possible.

            When most of us venture out—or browse online—in the pursuit of acquiring more formal wear, there are many different things we all pay close attention to, whether it's the patterns on a given necktie or the thread count on a brand-new wool suit jacket.  In one of our previous installments, we gave you the rundown on the different trouser waistband types and the benefits of each.  While trousers might seem simple enough for gentlemen to not really give them a second thought, there is so much more to a pair of pants than what meets the eye at first glance.  Beyond the typical things gentlemen look for in a pair of trousers such as waistbands, length, and waist size, there are other finer points in both style and functionality that can make quite a bit of difference in how a given pair of pants looks and feels.

            While many trousers look the same on the surface, there are subtleties that can either complement or detract from an outfit's overall formal appearance.  The same goes for pants that might be needed in more casual contexts.  For example, you wouldn't wear suit pants on the golf course, just as you wouldn't wear khakis to a black-tie dinner.  The aforementioned differences are obvious, but what about pleats, creases, cuffs, or stripes?  In this article, we'll seek to refine these details in a way that makes sense in the context of style and comfort without needing to resort to anything seemingly out of the ordinary.  As it's been said many times before, the devil is in the details.

--Pleats--

            Aside from aesthetic considerations, pleats serve the main function of providing extra room toward the top portion of a pair of trousers. Pleats also allow a pair of trousers to collapse more easily when they're not in use, or more succinctly, when they're not being worn and hanging up in a closet or folded in a dresser drawer.

            Generally, trousers meant to be worn alone or with a suit come with a flat front (no pleats), one pleat, or two pleats.  Many gentlemen prefer flat front trousers due to their streamlined sleek appearance, and this type is sometimes ideal for men with slender body types, as they don't need as much room in their trousers toward the waistline.  The flat front style is best for trousers worn at or slightly below the waistline, and while this eliminates any bagginess from a style perspective, they do have one possible drawback.  With flat front trousers, your pocket space might be limited, so always keep this in mind when you set out to balance functionality with style.

            Pleated pants, whether they have one or two, tend to be best for gentlemen who prefer to wear their trousers a little higher.  British-style suits tend to take advantage of this style consideration, and pleats can also add a bit of old-world charm compared to the modern aesthetics of Italian-style and the emerging global-style suits popular in both workplace and formal settings outside the office.  While the extra room afforded in pleated pants is an attractive bonus, the one drawback is that they have the propensity to bunch up from time to time, causing an uneven appearance.  This can be avoided, however, with proper measurements and tailoring.  When you shop with us at Enzo Custom, our clothiers will help you determine what's best for your particular body dimensions if you're on the fence about pleats or flat fronts.  As with many things fashion-related, it's ultimately a personal judgment call based on balancing style with comfort and functional considerations.

--Creases--

            One thing to keep in mind about trouser pleats is that gentlemen often confuse them with creases.  While pleats do form creases, considering how they're stitched into the fabric, they are not one in the same.  Creases, unlike pleats, will form naturally on any given pair of pants—pleats or not—depending on how they are folded or put away.  While creases do not serve the same functional purposes that pleats do, they still offer a sense of style sharpness that many gentlemen go out of their way to achieve.  In the context of formal wear, a crease that is present on a pair of trousers can signify an elevated sense of formality when it's done correctly.  Most formal suit trousers will come with a crease ironed into them, showing itself as a fine line breaking through the front of the trouser fabric on each leg toward the bottom, separate from the lines toward the top of a pair of trousers delineating any pleats that may be present.  With everyday use, these creases can become less prominent over time, diminishing a pair of trousers' overall formality.

            Thankfully, there's an easy fix for keeping your trouser creases well maintained.  All you have to do is iron your pants periodically, following the same lines that originally were present when you bought them.  Many dry cleaning establishments will include ironing as part of its services, sometimes for a small additional fee.  In lieu of going to a dry cleaner, many gentlemen opt to do this themselves, as it requires nothing more than a flat surface—preferably an ironing board—and an iron.  If you want to maintain trouser creases yourself, we would recommend using a steam iron rather than a dry iron; you'll be less likely to damage your clothes in case the phone rings or someone knocks on your door, as dry irons can cause permanent burns if they're unattended and resting on your clothes for too long.  Another helpful piece of advice in maintaining trouser creases is to hang them up after each use.  By doing so, your trousers will require less ironing and pressing to keep them looking pristine, thereby saving you time.

--Stripes--

            What stripes lack in terms of functionality is compensated by their ability to accentuate personal style without having to rely on any extra bells and whistles.  In many cases, striped patterns woven into the trouser fabric are so subtle that they might go unnoticed to the untrained eye, even though the desired effect is still achieved.  When it comes to striped patterns for suit jackets and trousers, the mantra holds that less is more, which is why pinstripes have remained such a popular choice in formal wear.  There are exceptions, but larger stripes have the tendency to detract from the overall formality of a given outfit as opposed to pinstripes, herringbone, or houndstooth patterns.  No matter what striped patterns you choose for your own personal style, just make sure that your trousers match your jacket if you're settling on a full suit.  If you're opting for a more casual look and decide to go with a sport coat instead, keep any patterns to either your trousers or your jacket, not both, as mismatched patterns, even if they're subtle, tend to look too busy.

            By and large, many gentlemen prefer to reserve pinstriped patterns for flat front trousers rather than pleated ones.  The uniform lines can provide an extra boost to the sleekness and symmetry of your formal attire, especially with a subtle color contrast provided by alternating charcoal and neutral greys.  If you opt for pleated trousers, stripes can work, but we would caution you against going with anything too elaborate.  In this case, striped patterns might draw unwanted attention toward the folds in the pleats and cause your formal wear to look slightly off or asymmetrical.  Even with this slight concern, a skilled tailor will be able to mitigate this potential problem with proper measurements and stitching.

--Cuffs--

            Even though cuffed trousers still remain a staple of men's formal wear, their popularity has waned a bit over the years.  But even when classics go out of style from time to time, they never quite disappear completely, and in many cases they tend to make strong comebacks when they reemerge.

            Aside from providing a classic, traditional look, cuffed trousers come with more material, which can provide a buffer against unforeseen circumstances related to mishaps and wear and tear.  While it's true that cuffed pants are more vulnerable to fraying as they tend to drape lower than their cuffless counterparts, you'll have more material to work with when something does go wrong with the fabric.  If you tend to like the look of trousers with two pleats, cuffs are also very good at complementing the extra surface area that double-pleated pants provide.

            The major drawback encountered with cuffed trousers in the context of formal wear is that they can sometimes make an outfit appear to be less formal.  This is one of the main reasons why you'll never see cuffs on a pair of tuxedo pants.  Even so, cuffs can sometimes work well from a style standpoint, especially for gentlemen of taller builds, as they provide a softer balance and evenness to a person's evening ensemble.

            Whether you're an expert in the nuances of formal wear or just getting acquainted with all the different style considerations that go into custom suits, jackets, and trousers, Enzo Custom has you covered.  Our clothiers will give you all the pointers and tools you'll need to wear your next custom suit with confidence.  Step into one of our showrooms today, or if you feel more comfortable at home, make an appointment with us via videoconference.