Loose Buttons, Stray Threads, and Frayed Zippers, Or, When It's Time To Buy A New Suit

A functional wardrobe is a small but significant investment in any gentleman's life, and what better way to maximize your closet's lifespan with a solid rotation of long-lasting, comfortable, and perfectly fitting formal wear. When properly maintained and cared for, both formal and casual clothing can last years, if not decades. But every now and again, especially with heavy use, suits can eventually lose their luster over time. Buttons fall off. Threads unravel. Zippers get stuck. Seams stretch. These are all parts of normal wear and tear, but there are sometimes ways to minimize these clothing pitfalls or at the very least, slow the progressive material deterioration down.

For starters, proper storage can go a long way in keeping your suits neat, pristine, functional, and stylish. Hanging them up after each use, getting them properly cleaned every so often, and keeping protective barriers around them can make the difference between a few years and a few career moves. Staying on top of loose buttons and threads also helps, so it's always a good idea to familiarize yourself with a basic rudimentary understanding of sewing and stitching, as this can save you money over time when you can take care of small repairs and fixes without having to shell money out to a tailor for every little issue.

But all material goods have a finite lifespan, some longer than others. Whether it's the car you drive, your personal computer, or your custom suit that you purchased long ago, there comes a point at which keeping something in operational condition becomes more expensive and time-consuming than simply buying a new

one. In the realm of formal wear, if you're constantly making fixes and adjustments to your suits and tuxedos, it's probably time to consider shopping around for a replacement or two.

--Keeping Up With Minor Repairs or Getting That New Suit?--

Although it may seem inconsequential at first glance, keeping your wardrobe up to snuff involves a bit of cost-benefit analysis just like anything else. And of course, some problems are much easier to remedy than others.

One of the most common problems any gentleman will encounter with formal wear is the integrity of the suit buttons. In some cases it's a matter of material integrity; buying a discounted suit off the rack at a big-box department store will probably yield more button problems over time than a suit made by a custom tailor. This is simply a function of cost, as the big-box guys tend to use the least amount of thread possible to keep the buttons secure on the jacket. Over time, the constant buttoning and unbuttoning will slowly force the button threads to loosen, making it more likely for the buttons to fall off and therefore reduce the functionality of your suit. Fortunately, tightening and reattaching suit buttons are relatively easy fixes that hardly require any time at all. Even if you have no idea how to sew threads together, you can always take your suit to a tailor, where they can attach the buttons with extra thread to minimize the chance they'll come loose again.

Stray threads are yet another common problem. We've all been guilty of it at one point or another; a loose thread can easily be twisted, pulled off, and stowed away in your pocket to keep your outfit looking brand new. While doing this once

or twice may not cause any immediate problems, the repeated breaking of loose threads will ultimately cause more loose threads and in severe cases, ruin the structural integrity of the jacket, which can lead to fraying and unraveling over time. It's just that you may not notice the damage you're doing at first.

A better way to fix loose threads is to thread your sewing needle (if you have one) and pull it through the snag, creating a loop as you pull the thread closer in. Then you can use the end to tie a small knot and close the loop, cutting off the small amount of excess thread still hanging down. This greatly reduces the chance that your suit will unravel at some point and also prevents the same snag from occurring in the future.

While it's much less common for zippers on suit trousers to break than it is for the same thing to occur when you're dealing with cheaply made duvet covers or pillow cases, it occasionally does happen. Whether it's the slider not functioning properly or the teeth not fully closing, this can be a cause of concern that ranges from the annoying to the embarrassing. Quick home remedies abound; you can use graphite pencils or lip balm to smooth out the teeth and opt for a small key ring in place of the zipper pull when you're in a bind. But when you're dealing with formal wear, these solutions aren't great from a style standpoint. Most custom tailors can replace the zipper for a nominal fee, and most estimates are well below the $20 range. If any problems still persist afterwards, it may not be the zipper itself but rather the material around it. If you start to notice more loose threads and snags, it might be time to consider getting a new pair of suit pants that don't have as many issues with quality control, as this can save you time and money in the long run.

Trouser cuffs serve both a functional and stylistic purpose. Their presence can minimize the likelihood of fraying at the bottom of your suit pants and they also can bring down the formality level of an outfit when the occasion calls for it. Cuffs, however, are not immune to fraying problems. If you walk to work or travel frequently, you'll probably notice loose threads down at the base of your pants more often than you would if your occupation requires a more stationary position the majority of the time. When this happens, you can fix these types of cuff issues as you would any other loose thread or snag problem on other parts of your suit, so long as you catch these problems before they snowball. If you continue to notice fraying at the bottom of your pants even after constant fixes and additional threading, there may be something wrong with your trousers as it relates to structural integrity. Depending on how your suit was made, the thread count might be inappropriate for the material used in its manufacture. When shopping for a new suit, it's important to pay attention to not only thread count but also the material used. If these components are balanced properly, you're less likely to encounter any fraying issues that have the potential to ruin your wardrobe when you can't keep them under control.

Thankfully, lapels don't usually encounter the same problems that cuffs, buttons, and zippers do, as there is less friction to worry about. If you notice any problems with your lapels at all, it's likely due to a fit and measurement problem. With a properly tailored suit, your lapels should lay flat across your chest. If you notice that they look asymmetrical or jut out, even to the slightest degree, the chest measurements of the suit are probably too tight. Unfortunately this is not an easy

fix, and your best option if you encounter this problem is to consider purchasing a new suit altogether. When you do, just make sure that you get properly fitted with a reputable tailor to avoid this issue in the future. The same goes for problems with bumps in the suit shoulder or too much space behind the back collar. Proper measurements for your next suit will ensure that these issues do not arise.

--Material--

Just as proper measurements are vital to the functionality of any suit, the material you select can have a huge impact on your suit's longevity. Wool continues to be the gold standard for gentlemen's formal wear across the globe because of its superior wicking properties along with its durable nature, so long as it is cared for and maintained properly. For those seeking additional durability along with a better price point, wool/cotton blends are another great fabric choice. Linen is also popular, especially in the summer due to its lightweight nature and ability to keep the body cooler than other heavier materials. As a suit material, linen sports a robust durability as well due to the thicker nature of each strand of fabric, which allows linen suits to get away with a lower thread count than its wool and blended counterparts.

As we have stressed before, thread count is an important factor to consider when you're weighing in on a suit's potential longevity. If you're shopping around for a new suit and you love the touch and feel of wool, it's best to stick to a thread count anywhere between 100 and 170, as this balances fineness with durability. Be aware that opting for a thread count over 200 on wool suits isn't always advisable; it may be fine to the touch, but it is more likely to encounter snags, loose threads, and durability issues more quickly. The same rules apply to wool/cotton blends. Linen thread counts tend to be lower, even going as low as 80, but the strength of the individual strands allows for it.

While issues with stray threads, loose buttons, and even stuck zippers are relatively easy to fix, the biggest problems in the realm of formal wear are caused by improper measurements, which is why it is so important to seek out reputable custom tailors when you decide it's time for an upgrade. Here at Enzo Custom, we'll make sure that your suit measurements are precise to your body dimensions so you'll get the most out of your custom suit in terms of style, longevity, and durability. Stop into one of our showrooms today, or if you feel more comfortable at home feel free to speak with one of our expert clothiers via videoconference.