Folding Pocket Squares To Fit Your Style (Part II)

Earlier this year, we discussed some of the many different ways a gentleman can fold his pocket squares to bring out the best in his personal style. More than just a simple piece of rectangular cloth meant for style enhancements, the pocket square started out as a practical hygienic accessory meant to wipe one's hands or face. While this utilitarian use fell out of favor over time, the pocket square remained a staple of men's formal wear in the years that followed. Given the pocket square's seemingly endless styles, we thought it would be a good idea to expand on the many other ways in which they can be folded so you can boost the number of style combinations available to you in your wardrobe, without having to add any more articles of clothing or accessories to do so.

            In this piece, we'll delve into some of the more advanced types of pocket square folds so you can really give your style that edge you've been looking for when the occasion calls for it. Even more encouraging from a style perspective, pocket squares tend to be less expensive than most other accessories in the formal realm, offering you the chance to keep several different colors and patterns on hand. Combine that with the many ways you can fold them and you'll never run out of style permutations at your disposal over the lifetime of your wardrobe.

            With so many pocket square styles to choose from, we'll start with the simpler ways to fold them, gradually ascending through the variations with increasing difficulty. Although we'll cover nine styles in this piece, the number of distinct pocket square folds can fall anywhere between 50 and 100. Accounting for the finer details and slight deviations from the more commonly known ways to fold a pocket square, that number likely goes higher. But for the purposes of practicality, you'll likely find something that fits your personal style when you stay within the double-digit range.

--Easier--

            The blanket fold is a popular choice for casual nights out, and although its appearance seems complex, it's actually quite easy to do. First, you'll want to lay your pocket square flat in the shape of a diamond. Pick up the center of the pocket square with your right thumb and index finger. Take your left hand and even out the sides, holding it in place. With your right index finger, tap the top of the pocket square, which should form a puff. Then, fold it in half and place it in your pocket. Each blanket fold will be slightly different, which will give your pocket square a casual charm. This fold works best with brighter colors and tighter, more intricate designs to accentuate the creases.

            The double presidential fold is a variation of the classic presidential fold. The main difference is that this one requires two pocket squares instead of one. To start, place two pocket squares side by side. Fold both of them in half. You should now have two rectangles in front of you. Place one of the pocket squares of your choosing on top of the other, ensuring that the bottom one shows slightly on the long side closest to you. Take the top pocket square and fold each side over the center; the pocket square should now be only a third as long as it was, with no change in its height. Take the bottom pocket square and fold it over the top one in the same way. You should now have a pocket square within a pocket square that you can easily slide into your front jacket pocket. For an enhanced visual effect, use pocket squares of contrasting colors. If your engagement is on the more formal side, this fold works best when the color contrast between pocket squares is subtler and more minimalist.

            The stair fold, or three-stairs fold as it is also known, is similar to the three-peaks fold only with a tighter appearance. With your pocket square on a flat surface in the shape of a diamond, fold the bottom corner into the center and flip the pocket square over. Carefully make two creases at the top of the pocket square without disturbing the triangular fold on the bottom; you should now have what's called an accordion fold at the top, with one vertical point on the pocket square slightly higher than the one beneath it. Then, take the entire pocket square and fold it in half over itself. Take the bottom right and top left corners of the pocket square and fold them underneath diagonally. This should yield a pocket square with a pointed tip and two creases resembling stair steps. The three-stairs fold works best with pocket squares made from cloth fabric, as the accordion fold can be a bit tricky when attempted with silk or nylon.

            The inverted triangle fold is essentially the single-peak fold upside down. In spite of the inversion, it's actually easier to do. With your pocket square on a flat surface in the shape of a diamond, fold it in half to yield a symmetrical triangle. Repeat this process by folding it into smaller triangles until your pocket square is small enough to fit inside your jacket pocket. Once you've reached your desired dimensions, insert the pocket square with the long side facing up. While this pocket square design might appear prone to popping out at a moment's notice, the repeated triangular folds should provide enough leverage to keep the pocket square firmly in its place.

--More Difficult--

            The spiral staircase fold follows some of the same steps as the three-stairs fold, the main difference being how it is formed at the very end. With your pocket square flat in the shape of a diamond, fold the bottom corner up to form a triangle. Take the point of the top layer of the pocket square and slide it down about an inch or two below the peak, then fold the lower point down so it rests beneath the long side of the pocket square. This should give you a crease and smaller peak that juts out from the bottom. With all the folds in place, flip the pocket square over from left to right. Then, take the top peak and fold it over itself once or twice to create more pleats; the top peak should end up in the same position as the bottom peak once this process is complete. Fold the pocket square in half from left to right. Take the right end of the pocket square and roll it down to the left and under to yield the desired spiral staircase look. In order to nail it down correctly, you may need to attempt this more than once, especially if you're using pocket squares made from fabrics with a tendency to slip.

            The switchback fold is similar to how the single-peak pocket square is folded, only with the inside facing out so the sharper creases are visible. With the pocket square flat, fold the top point down over the bottom one to form a triangle. Take the left point and fold it over the right point to form a smaller triangle. Then take the right point of the top fabric on the long side of the triangle and fold it toward the left, stopping just short of the endpoint. Do the same with the right point of the bottom fabric, stopping just short of the second point on the left. Fold the left side back and tuck the corners. You should now have a pocket square that displays two overlapping diagonal creases on the right side just below the peak. Whether you're heading off to a black-tie engagement or merely taking a casual night out, the switchback fold can give your personal style a sharp, elegant edge.

            For those occasions where you want your quirky side to shine, the stage pocket square fold will surely put the spotlight on your formal ensemble. While it only requires one pocket square, it certainly looks like you would have needed two to pull it off. Depending on the dimensions of your pocket square, you may want to fold it into a smaller square first so the intended effect will fit within the confines of your front pocket. With the square flat in the shape of a diamond, fold the top and bottom points in toward the center. Take the bottom edge and fold it up just below the top flat edge, which should form a crease at the half-inch mark. Fold the outer corners in so the points line up with the corners directly above them. Lastly, fold the newly formed outer edges in to create what looks like a stage from afar.

            Just like the double presidential fold, the layer cake fold requires two pocket squares, with visually stunning results. Lay both pocket squares on a flat surface and fold them both to make two rectangles. Move one rectangle over the other, slightly offset with the top layer about a quarter inch above the bottom layer. With both rectangles acting as one unit, fold the left side into the center at a slight angle. Then fold the right side completely over the left side, again at an angle. Adjust the width of the pocket squares by folding back any excess width. You should now have alternating layers of pocket squares ready to go. This fold works best when the color contrast between each pocket square is pronounced, or by using solid colors paired against a patterned or striped pocket square.

            Rounding out the more difficult pocket square folds in this piece, the bouquet fold can require a little bit of patience and works best with pocket squares made from cotton fabric, as using silk or nylon pocket squares might present a challenge when it comes to executing the accordion folds correctly. To begin, ensure that you have a flat surface such as a desk or coffee table. Carefully start from the top of the square and fold in an accordion pattern—flipping over the square as you make each fold—doing your best to yield eight equal folds that form an elongated rectangle. Fold this rectangle in half, taking your thumb and index finger to pinch both sides roughly two inches away from the frayed end. Insert the closed-loop bottom into your pocket and fluff the top ends if necessary. This style can work great with either patterned or solid-color pocket squares, perfect for those occasions that fall short of requiring a tuxedo.

--A Short Note On Style--

            While pocket squares shouldn't be seen as a quick fix to an outfit that is lacking in other areas, they do have the innate ability to elevate your personal style with class and subtlety. No matter what style of pocket square fold you choose, just make sure that it works with your ensemble from a visual perspective and fits properly with the time and place. For black-tie affairs, stick with solid colors with softer hues. For weddings and cocktail parties, don't be bashful about letting your personal style shine through with vivid pairings or more elaborate designs.