Folding Pocket Squares To Fit Your Style

Aside from fitting into the front pocket of your suit jacket, pocket squares should fit just as well into your personal style when they're worn correctly and with confidence. As far as accessories go, pocket squares are one of the most versatile add-ons in terms of giving your overall ensemble that extra finesse and style facelift all gentlemen strive for. Less constrained by some of the more rigid fashion rules that dictate what patterns and colors you can match together, pocket squares give you the option to either edge your style into a wilder abandon or simply add just a little bit of flair to a more minimalist fashion sensibility.

            In today's landscape, pocket squares exclusively serve an aesthetic purpose, but their origins can be traced back to the handkerchief, usually worn on the inside of a suit jacket meant for personal hygiene purposes such as wiping one's hands, face, or nose. As the handkerchief evolved, the material itself morphed into an indicator of a person's socioeconomic status; once societies became more egalitarian, the pocket square cemented itself as a way to elevate personal style without relying on elaborate upgrades or over-the-top fashion statements. Depending on one's geographic region and corresponding culture, the terms handkerchief and pocket square are sometimes interchangeable, although the former implies a more practical use than the latter.

            On average, pocket squares range between 10 x 10 and 17 x 17 inches. Fabrics will vary, but it's common for pocket squares to be made from either silk or a synthetic blend. Thanks to their symmetrical dimensions, pocket squares are easy to fold into a variety of different patterns that, when done properly, will give your personal style a subtle edge. In this piece we'll go over some of the more popular ways gentlemen fold their pocket squares, all with varying degrees of skill required to pull them off fashionably.

--Pocket Square Folds: Basic--

            The great thing about pocket squares is that many of the more common ways to fold them require very little acuity and practically no time at all. When you're running a bit behind schedule for a black-tie event, seconds matter, especially when getting your tuxedo just right can require some extra attention. Adding a pocket square with a presidential fold can take 30 seconds or less, which is perhaps why this fold is also one of the most popular.

            With the pocket square face down, simply fold it in half from right to left. Then fold it in half again in the opposite direction (left to right), leaving a small gap toward the right edge. Instead of a square you should now have a narrower vertical rectangle. Fold this in half from top to bottom, and then fold the bottom open edges behind the front of the square. Once you make minor adjustments accordingly, you now have a pocket square with a presidential fold, one that should peek out of the top of your pocket with an edge parallel to the ground. Simple yet sleek, a white pocket square with a presidential fold is a great way to spruce up your black-tie attire in a restrained and subtle way.

            On some occasions, you may want to go up a notch from the presidential fold but without doing something too elaborate. The single-peak fold, or one-point fold as it is sometimes called, is one way to do this. Just like the presidential fold, the single-peak fold is restrained and elegant, with just a little bit more of an edge.

            To achieve this fold, lay the pocket square flat in the shape of a diamond. Take the bottom point and fold it to the top point, which should form a triangle. Now, fold both bottom end points inward. After some minor adjustments, you should be able to place the folded square into your pocket with the formed triangular peak jutting out of the top. As the one-point fold is easier and faster than tying a tie with a standard four-in-hand knot, it's a popular choice for all occasions that require a boost in personal style while still retaining subtlety.

            Rounding out the easy ones, the classic fold is a variation of the presidential fold. The fold will yield a similar style with just a touch of extra frill, as it is folded in a slightly different way than its presidential counterpart.

            The first two steps are exactly the same. Lay the square flat and then fold from right to left. Instead of folding in the opposite direction for the third step, fold the rectangle in half from bottom to top. Then fold the square from left to right. Finally, fold the bottom behind the front. In lieu of a flat crease that a presidential fold should deliver, the classic fold should give the appearance of a few offset layers peeking out of the top of your pocket. Some gentlemen find that the slight asymmetry adds a bit of charm to their ensemble, much in the same way a bow tie would.

--Pocket Square Folds: Advanced--

            The aforementioned basic pocket square folds tend to work best with solid colors, in particular white when you're preparing for black-tie affairs. But sometimes your personal style might require something that stands out just a little more. Pairing your typical pocket square with a fold that demands some extra technical finesse is an effective way to ratchet up your sense of style a notch or two while still retaining a sense of subtlety.

            Giving your pocket square a two-peak fold follows similar steps that you would use for a single-peak fold, with one minor alteration. Once you lay your pocket square flat in a diamond position, fold the bottom end up, only this time offset the points; you should now have two peaks at the top of your pocket square. Then take the bottom ends and fold them inward. If necessary, you can fold the base up and under the front for a better fit inside your front pocket. Instead of one point, you should now have two visible points above your pocket. This fold works great for both solid and patterned pocket squares.

            For something with even more flair, consider the three-peak fold. To achieve this, you'll need to lay your pocket square flat in the diamond position again. Fold the right point directly over the left one, which should give you a triangle with the long side in a vertical position. Then take the bottom end and fold it up just to the right of the top point; you should now have two sharp points at the top of your pocket square. Holding the top layer of the pocket square in place, carefully fold the bottom corner up toward the right of the second peak. Fold the remaining bottom corners up and behind the front of the pocket square. Once you adjust everything to your liking, you'll now have three distinct points visible from your jacket pocket. This style pairs well with double-breasted suits, as the three points complement the peak lapels more common on double-breasted jackets.

            When it comes to the puff fold, this style is less of a fold and more of an art, as the puff generally requires a few exercises in trial and error to nail down correctly. With the pocket square placed on a flat surface, do your best to pinch the very center of the square and pick it up. Now that the center point is in your hand, run your other hand all the way down the material to even out the bottom points. With the bottom points in your other hand, tap the top point lightly. This should give the point a distinct puff. Carefully fold the bottom points inward and adjust accordingly so it fits easily into your suit pocket. Each time you do this, the puff will never be exactly the same, so you may need to repeat these steps a few times before you get the puff exactly to your personal liking.  For some extra flair, you can also choose to do a reverse puff fold, which only requires one extra step. Instead of folding the bottom points inward, fold them in half directly behind the puff and turn the pocket square around. The puff should then appear as if the corners of the pocket square surround it.

            The winged-peak fold, or split-diamond fold, is a variation on the standard single-peak fold with an added element of sharpness. In lieu of a smooth triangular peak, the split diamond gives the appearance of a crease down the middle of the peak. For this fold, you may want to use a pocket square with a more rigid material so its shape holds without sagging. With the pocket square on a flat surface, fold the top part down to make a horizontal rectangle. Then fold the right half over the left side to make a square again. Diagonally fold the square to make a smaller triangle. Take the bottom end points of the triangle and fold them toward the top center point; this should yield a diamond with a crease down the center of the folded pocket square. Once you get the placement right in your jacket pocket, you should have a perfectly formed peak with a prominent crease. Pocket squares with solid colors work best with this fold, and you may want to use one with larger dimensions to accentuate the spread of the peak.

--Pocket Square Folds: Next Level--

            While there is certainly no shortage of different ways to style pocket squares, especially as the complexity of the folds increases, one of the most difficult folds to pull off correctly is the rose pocket square fold. The rose generally requires even more attempts than the puff fold, so make sure you leave yourself ample time to get ready if you choose to add this level of flair to your personal style. With your non-dominant hand, form a small hole between your thumb and index finger. Center the pocket square over your hand and push a small amount of material through the gap, keeping a tight grip on the material now in your hand. Take your dominant hand and gently twist the top of the pocket square until there is no more loose fabric. This will allow the material to gradually overlap, giving the appearance of a rose at the top of the pocket square. Carefully remove the pocket square from your hand and smooth out the bottom half. Once you fluff up the rose and make some minor adjustments (keeping in mind to do this very delicately), simply slide it into your jacket pocket and allow your pocket square to take your style to the next level. The rose can appear exceptionally sophisticated when the fabric of your pocket square boasts elaborate patterns or tight alternating strands of color.

            Although pocket squares aren't a necessary component of formal wear, they do serve an undeniably useful purpose. Pairing one with your next Enzo Custom suit will bring your personal style into the foreground, whether you strive for boldness or seek out subtlety in your wardrobe.