Custom Suits: Balancing Structure With Style

When most people go out shopping for a new suit, the first thing that comes to mind is how it looks.  As far as office attire and evening formal wear is concerned, no one is going to seek out anything with comically oversized shoulder pads or plaid patches that appear to be the only things holding the entire suit together.  But just as style is a vital selling point, so are structural integrity and accurate measurements.  A custom suit is only as good as the customer and the tailor want it to be.

            Off-the-rack options abound at large department-store chains, and suits of this variety are very popular with gentlemen who are lucky enough to never run into too many issues when it comes to measurements and last-minute tailoring.  While these suits are designed to fit a broader spread of measurement deviations, it's almost never going to be quite the same as opting for the custom route.  At first glance it might appear that you're saving time and money by walking out the door with several suits in under an hour.  But how long will they really last?  How structurally sound are they?  And how easy is it to alter them later on?

            One of the biggest issues with off-the-rack suits is that you don't always know what you're getting.  While you might fit perfectly with one manufacturer or brand, another may have problems with the tightness of the chest or trousers that are either too long or too short if you go up or down a size.  It's true that a tailor can fix most of these issues, but a suit will always fit better when these kinks can be figured out before the suit is put together rather than afterwards.

            A custom tailor will know exactly how to balance a suit's structure with your desired style based on your measurements, as it is oftentimes better to work with a blank canvas than it is to fix one that's already been thrown together.  With our combined decades of experience, we've seen everything from bulky shoulder pads to flexible waistlines as attempts from manufacturers to offset subpar structure and dimension problems.  Custom tailors will never resort to cheap gimmicks or shortcuts, as they care more about your repeat business than they do volume.  Because of this careful attention to detail, custom suits tend to not only fit better but also last longer.

--Thread Count--

            One of the most important elements of a suit's structural integrity is thread count; it also matters with regard to style albeit to a lesser degree.  Unlike thread counts that apply to linens or bedding, more is not always better.  For example, a wool suit with a thread count of 250 might be soft and very fine to the touch, but it is also more vulnerable to premature wear and disintegration at a quicker pace.  Conversely, a similar wool suit with a thread count of 70 can look cheap and may have more fitting problems than one would expect.  Depending on the quality of the individual fiber strands, most tailors know to shoot for that sweet spot between 120 and 200 to find that perfect balance between fit and structural durability.

            A custom tailor will also know that an ideal thread count varies based on the suit material.  Linen suits, which are highly popular during the summer months because of their superior ability in keeping your body cool and comfortable, require a lower thread count than wool suits because the individual strands are larger.  Keep this in mind when you go shopping for your next custom suit, as the thread count number isn't ever going to be the only indicator of superior quality.

--The Dreaded Shoulder Pads, And Why Most Of Us Are Glad They're Gone--

            Well, they're not completely gone.  Every suit has some form of padding in the shoulder, but in the present moment they serve a more practical purpose than an aesthetic one.  This, of course, was not always so.

            It's hard to remember the 1980s and early 1990s without the shoulder pads' rise in popularity alongside gaudy McMansions, high interest rates, and excessive use of overdubs and synthesizers in music.  It seemed as if the more extravagant something appeared to be, the more appealing it was to have it.  The fashion of the time reflected this mindset, and prominent shoulder pads were perhaps most ubiquitous and noticeable in women's formal wear.  A side effect of this trend was that formal wear tended to have a better built-in durability thanks to all that extra padding. 

            Although posh and trendy at the time, in retrospect the conspicuous shoulder pads look rather dated, as fashion trends have slowly adopted a subtler, more minimalist aesthetic that emphasizes practicality over extravagance.  While they're still necessary when it comes to certain blazers, overcoats, and heavier jackets for both men and women, a little tends to go a long way when we're dealing with gentlemen's suits, tuxedos, and other articles of formal wear.  Too much padding in the shoulder will have the same effect as wearing a neon-green tuxedo to a black-tie dinner, and while there's nothing wrong with standing out, it's better to do it in a tasteful way.  Shoulder pads aside, there are more effective ways in maintaining that delicate balance between durability and personal style, depending on the type of suit that fits best for your individual tastes.

--Suit Types, Style, and Structure--

            Depending on your individual measurements, you might find that you look best in a particular suit style that falls more or less into three main categories.  In one of our previous articles, we highlighted the hallmarks of British, American, and Italian suit styles.  Just as each type can enhance your overall personal style, there are structural benefits to each one, too, as style can have a great deal of impact on a suit's structure and vice versa.

            The American-style suit tends to work best with gentlemen who have average or larger body types, as it is generally roomier than its British and Italian counterparts.  Even gentlemen of other body types will sometimes favor the American-style suit because of this added comfort and extra room.  While not as sharp-edged as other suit types from a style standpoint, American could be the way to go if you need something primarily to wear to the office on a regular basis.

            Structurally, American-style suits also tend to be quite resilient, as the more loose-fitting tapers of them won't feel the strain from fluctuations in body dimensions as easily.  Be aware, however, that a suit with more dimensional room can be more prone to snags over time.  Such a minor issue can be avoided with proper care and maintenance, so be sure to keep an eye out for loose threads, hang them up once you're done wearing them, and pay visits to your local dry cleaner every so often.  Whether American or other type, custom suits will encounter any problems far less frequently than off-the-rack options will.

              In contrast to its American counterpart, the Italian-style suit is recognizable by its prominent taper and contours to an individual's body dimensions.  What an Italian suit might lack in extra room makes up for it with a sharp, sleek appearance, ideal for both the workplace and formal nights out.  Italian-style suits work best in mild Mediterranean climates, where you won't have to worry as much about extra layers or bulky accessories.  In climates that lean toward the hotter side, you may want to opt for linen, as this will compensate for the tighter fit as far as comfort goes.

            Due to its more contoured fit, Italian-style suits might end up at your tailor more often than you'd like, especially if your body dimensions tend to fluctuate from time to time.  While this is perfectly normal, there is less wiggle room with Italian-style suits, as they tend to fit best on individuals with measurements on the slighter side. As a result, keeping them looking sharp requires a little more maintenance than American or British-style suits, so it's beneficial to find a tailor who can make minor adjustments and fixes as needed.

            British-style suits tend to represent the happy medium between the free-flowing American and contoured Italian styles, balancing both comfort and fashion sense without compromising either aspect too much.  In contrast to American-style suits, British ones are noticeably more tapered with a higher waistline, but still afford plenty of room for an additional layer when the weather gets cold.  The armholes also tend to be higher and there is less break in the pant legs, which can sometimes give the illusion of greater height and stature from afar.  The suit canvas is also generally more rigid, providing a sturdier form.

            While you won't encounter too much fuss with a British suit from a structural standpoint, bear in mind that you may need to pay attention more closely to the finer details of a British-style suit when you're making adjustments with your tailor.  With alterations, there is less room for error than there is with an American-style suit where you'll have more material to work with.

            No matter what you're looking for in your next custom suit, whether you put more stock in style, comfort, or structural durability, Enzo Custom has your bases covered.  Our expert clothiers will get you fitted appropriately for all your different—and sometimes seemingly conflicting—concerns as they relate to fashion sense as well as sound structure and comfort level.  Step into one of our showrooms today, or if you feel more comfortable at home you can meet with one of our experts via videoconference.