Mastering The Art Of The Tuxedo: Unconventional Styles For Black-Tie Optional

            In the realm of men's formal wear, the tuxedo continues to hold the number-one spot for elegance, formality, and personal style. Although the white-tie dress code still exists in some form, black-tie is the de facto ultimate dress code for special occasions around the globe and has been for the better part of a century. Unlike other fashion trends that tend to ebb and flow, the tuxedo has remained rather fixed and unchanged, establishing itself as the classic hallmark of memorable events, weddings, and other life milestones that require something more than just a suit and tie.

            For men, the black-tie dress code is oddly the most formal (for all practical purposes) and the easiest to follow. As black-tie events ensure a semblance of uniformity, there isn't too much room for deviation from what a typical tuxedo should encompass. So long as you have a properly tied bow tie, a cummerbund or a vest, satin stripes down the sides of your trousers, and patent leather shoes, you'll fit right in at any event that requires the black-tie dress code. But in order to pull off that striking look every gentleman strives for in a tuxedo, you have to go beyond just the basics.

            So what exactly makes a superb, stylish tuxedo? Just like most things fashion-related, it all comes down to the finer details. Getting your bow tie just right no matter how long it takes, folding your pocket square to balance charm with symmetry, and even choosing the right cufflinks and shirt studs all go into elevating your tuxedo a step above everyone else's. With black-tie-optional dress codes becoming more popular for weddings and cocktail parties, gentlemen now have the ability to move away from the rigid rules of strict black-tie outings and take their personal style a step further. In this piece we'll cover mastering the art of the tuxedo, as well as unconventional styles that make a good fit for those black-tie-optional outings.

--Black-Tie-Optional Dress Code--

            While some gentlemen are excited to receive a wedding invitation in the mail that specifies a black-tie-optional dress code, others dread it, perhaps only because of its perceived ambiguity. Black-tie-only is easy, because there's no question about what is required, in spite of the possible inconvenience of running out to purchase a tuxedo at the last minute. Black-tie-optional, on the other hand, leaves plenty of room to either be underdressed or even overdressed in some cases, depending on what the bride and groom are wearing. Black-tie-optional can mean different things to different people, but generally it encompasses everything from standard formal wear all the way up to a classic tuxedo, and whether you opt for a two-piece suit or a full tux with a wingtip collar and bow tie is completely up to you. When it's presented that way, it certainly becomes less confusing than some people make it out to be. In any event, there are times when black-tie-optional is called for, and other times when it isn't.

            If you choose to deviate from the rigid black-tie dress code, make sure that whatever event you're going to specifies the black-tie component as an option rather than a requirement. For example, if you receive a wedding invite that doesn't mention black-tie at all, you're going to be better off opting for a two- or three-piece suit in lieu of a tuxedo, as going with the latter could leave you looking way too overdressed. You don't want to find yourself in a situation where you upstage the bride and groom.

            For black-tie-only events, it's not uncommon to run into people who took that dress code suggestion with too many grains of salt. Still, it's best to let someone else be that guy. If it's a black-tie-only event, keeping to the standards of a classic tuxedo is your best bet, because if you don't there's a good chance you might actually be the only one who ran afoul of the dress code. It's best not to risk it. But if you find yourself anticipating a black-tie-optional event where that dress code is explicitly stated and you're not quite sure how to present yourself, deviating from the classic tuxedo can be a lot of fun, and you'll get better at it the more often you do it.

--Unconventional Black-Tie-Optional Styles--

            Not long ago, wearing a necktie with a tuxedo was practically unthinkable. Although this unconventional fashion statement isn't universally embraced, it's certainly much more common now than it used to be. But if you dare to pull this off, there are a few things to keep in mind.

            If you plan to wear a necktie with a tuxedo, don't just reach for any old tie in your wardrobe. Black skinny ties will look best, and only do this if you're sure that you'll be going to a black-tie-optional event. Wearing a necktie is generally frowned upon for black-tie-only outings. While this look can add a touch of sleek modernity to your formal ensemble, be mindful of the type of shirt you wear. Neckties should never be worn with wingtip collars, so if you decide to rock a necktie with your tux, opt for a tuxedo shirt with a spread collar instead, as it will conceal the back of your tie in the event you need to take your jacket off for any reason.

            Although black is the safest option for bow ties, black-tie-optional dress codes allow plenty of deviations from this. Sometimes one of the best ways to go off the beaten path of traditional black-tie attire is to simply liven up the colors and patterns on your tie and pocket square, even if you keep everything else about your tuxedo within the confines of black-tie rigidity. Whether you choose a more restrained dark blue or go nuts with stripes and polka dots, a little extra color in your tie and pocket square can go a long way in giving your outfit some extra pizzazz without resorting to anything drastic that might take away from your personal style.

            While it's hard to overstate the power of subtlety, sometimes an occasion rightfully calls for throwing restraint to the wind, but even so, we would exercise caution in straying too far away from common fashion sense. Even though you might be able to pull off a plaid bow tie, doing the same with a plaid tuxedo from head to toe might be a bit of a challenge. If you're going to mix and match colors, try to stay within the confines of what you would normally do if you were venturing out to any other formal event that didn't require a tuxedo. Unless your goal is to stand out in a very pronounced way, sometimes the best thing to do for black-tie-optional affairs is to wear the best suit you have in lieu of reinventing the tuxedo. But if you must do the latter, focus your attention on the details that would be noticeable in a conversation rather than from across the room.  Opting for unconventional cufflinks or shirt studs can add a bit of charm to your ensemble without relying on garish gimmicks.

--Mastering The Tuxedo, For Any Event--

            Unconventional style considerations aside, nailing down the tuxedo correctly requires certain fundamental aspects that cannot be overlooked, whether you go the traditional route or strive for something a little more avant-garde.

            As the same goes for two- and three-piece suits, getting properly fitted for a tuxedo is key to wearing one with confidence. With tuxedos, there is even less room for error with regard to body dimensions, as they have more components that need to work synergistically with one another. A waistcoat that is too loose will alter the way in which the jacket fits over your shoulders. Conversely, a cummerbund that is too tight can restrict your movement and make your shirt appear bunched up. Compared to a custom suit, a tuxedo will always have more potential points of failure, so it's extremely important to get fitted properly in order to avoid any discrepancies that could throw off the symmetry of your ensemble. Venturing into more unconventional styles is also easier to pull off when your measurements are on point, since anything that stands out stylistically will always draw attention to any structural flaws that would have gone unnoticed with a more conventional presentation. By ensuring that your tuxedo is accurately measured to your body dimensions, you automatically allow yourself more leeway if you choose to move into uncharted territory from a style standpoint.

             Aside from knowing the technical aspects of the tuxedo and how all of its components work together, context can be just as important. Knowing the type of venue you're set to attend can give you plenty of insight as far as what you'll feel comfortable with in terms of those style judgment calls that aren't so cut and dry. Being the best man at your brother's wedding, for example, is going to be different from attending an after-work function where rules about dress code are assumed to be more relaxed. Whether you stay within the bounds of tradition or go with something that pushes a few boundaries, you have to be comfortable in what you wear, both in terms of style and how it literally fits.

            Here at Enzo Custom, our expert clothiers can give you the proper guidance when it comes to the technical aspects of your next ensemble, as well as insights into what will work best for your own brand of personal style. Whether you prefer to stop into one of our showrooms or meet with us via videoconference, our combined years of experience can get you ready for your next black-tie (or black-tie-optional) event on your schedule.