            You'd be hard-pressed to find anyone out and about wearing a custom suit without a matching belt these days, and this observation shouldn't really be a surprise. Just like most other fashion accessories, belts also serve both a functional and stylistic purpose, adding extra trouser support along with a visual complement to the rest of a person's ensemble. Even though suspenders serve the exact same purpose and can be adjusted in a very similar way to belts, they're a little more difficult to put on and in some cases need to be measured more carefully in order to fit properly.

            While belts provide extra trouser support, they don't do so at the expense of ruffling up your shirt or restricting your movements as suspenders are sometimes known to do. By wearing a suit with a belt, you may even find that your suit jacket is able to show off a cleaner definition without suspenders creating those unnecessary bumps in your shoulder line. Although there are several pros and cons of each type of support system, choosing belts over suspenders and vice versa is always going to come down to a matter of personal preference. At least in North America, belts have always been the more dominant accessory out of the two going back at least 50 years.

            As the modern suit evolved, suspenders at first were considered more of an undergarment and needed to be concealed. Waistcoats, or vests as they are more commonly known, were very good at making sure suspenders stayed out of sight and out of mind. Belts, on the other hand, were originally designed as a form of outerwear and could provide support while simultaneously being on full display. As a result, belts began to dominate the American fashion landscape.

            In spite of the belt's dominance in terms of popularity, sometimes there are instances when formal wear is better suited without one. So long as personal tastes and fashion trends continue to evolve, there will always be a place for particular styles that favor suspenders or sometimes no extra support at all. Depending on various aspects of one's ensemble such as suit style, trouser length, time of day, and venue, breaking tradition without the belt can elevate your personal style to the next level. In this piece, we'll tell you how to go about it.

            Within the fashion community, there is much debate over whether or not one should always wear a belt if your pants have belt loops on them. Common sense would dictate that you should in fact wear a belt when that specific condition is met. In the realm of formal wear, combined experience tells us that any deviations from this unspoken rule are at least frowned upon. However, it's not uncommon for men to wear suspenders in place of a belt, even if their trousers have belt loops. While there are some men who would never recommend doing this, if you're insistent upon it then it's probably best to leave wearing suspenders with looped trousers for more casual engagements. Granted, it's not as much of a fashion faux pas as wearing gym shoes with a tuxedo, but having belt loops visible without a belt can throw off the symmetry of your ensemble and draw attention to something that will for sure look out of place. The key to wearing anything effectively is wearing it with confidence, but in the case of trousers with belt loops, it's best to exercise extreme caution if you choose to forego a belt, especially in formal settings.

            Just as there are unspoken rules for trousers with belt loops, the same applies to pants without them. With no belt loops present, gentlemen must opt for another mechanism to provide extra trouser support when it is needed. One of the most popular and effective ways to do this is through the use of suspenders, or braces as they are also known. Many suit pants available on the market today come with buttons on the inside of the waist specifically designed to accommodate suspenders. In the context of formal wear, it's pretty much standard to use suspenders with button fasteners rather than suspenders with clips for both functional and stylistic reasons. Suspenders with buttons are much less prone to coming undone accidentally, and since they fasten to the inside of the pants, the attachment remains away from plain view, rendering a more seamless overall appearance. But suspenders aren't the only option.

            Some suit pants can be tailored with adjustable straps hidden inside the waistband, and these pants can be worn without the use of any other support type at all. Many tuxedo pants also come with this feature since they're always worn without a belt.

            As far as style tips go, one key thing to remember is that you should never wear a belt with pants that don't have belt loops. Doing so is a major fashion faux pas that will certainly turn some heads. You also risk that your belt will fall down without anything to keep it elevated in place.

            Wearing looped pants with suspenders is more of a judgment call as we said before. Even so, doing this is probably best reserved for more casual affairs that don't require a jacket and tie, but this guideline is certainly more flexible than some other ones.

            One that's not so flexible, however, is wearing belts and suspenders at the same time. This should never be done in any setting, formal or otherwise. Wearing suspenders while wearing a belt is not only redundant but also outré, and not in a way that's particularly flattering as it will almost always convey a lack of fashion sense.

            Regardless of what your preference is when it comes to suspenders, belts, adjustable straps, or solely relying on proper measurements, it's always best to opt for something that will emphasize stylistic symmetry for any given ensemble, and this might vary considerably depending on what you're wearing on any given day. While most suits can be worn safely with a belt, others can sometimes look better without one.

            Off-the-rack suits offered at department stores and other large retailers can be convenient options when you're in a bind and need formal wear on short notice. However, what you gain in time efficiency is lost to style customization, even if they offer limited tailoring services. Since most of these suits come with pants prefabricated with belt loops, it becomes harder to make your own choices in terms of the trouser support you prefer. If you buy a custom suit, however, you can specify how it is manufactured before they even tailor your measurements and make adjustments as needed. For gentlemen who prefer suspenders, custom suits give them the ability to forego belt loops to provide a more seamless and symmetrical style that otherwise would be unavailable. With custom suits, you can even add adjustable straps to the waistband or simply rely on proper and precise measurements to give your trousers the support they need. In the latter case, however, we would still recommend inside suspender buttons as a backup measure in the event that you need extra trouser support in the future.

            The overall style of a suit and the way it looks on a particular person will have a lot of sway in determining whether it can be worn without a belt or should stay within the bounds of a more traditional style. Italian-style suits are generally tailored in a certain way that's more favorable to wearing one sans belt or even without suspenders, providing a sleek, modern, and seamless look that's harder to pull off with its American- or British-style counterparts. Since Italian suits are made with a higher waistline and provide more of an effortless transition between the top and bottom portion of the outfit, there's less of a stylistic need for a belt to delineate the midsection of the ensemble. Now that we've established that suits can sometimes be worn without a belt, there are other instances where a belt is still beneficial.

            If you plan on leaving your jacket at home for those occasions that don't require one, it's probably best to wear a belt to provide a semblance of balance between your shirt and your trousers. While you can also do this with suspenders in the event your pants don't have belt loops, semi-formal settings will generally favor belts in lieu of braces, as the latter are associated with a more formal mode of dress.

            A good rule of thumb to remember for less formal occasions or business casual office attire is that you should always wear a belt if you're required or expected to tuck in your shirt. Empty belt loops can stand out quite loudly especially when there's no jacket or free-flowing shirt bottom to conceal them.

            Style considerations aside, it's always going to be advantageous to wear a belt when you actually need the extra support, regardless of how formal or informal a venue may be. If your pants don't come with suspender buttons or adjustable straps in the waistline, there's not really much of a choice anyway. So long as your belt matches your shoes and doesn't take too much away from your ensemble, you can look just as stylish with a belt as you could have without one.

            The most important thing to remember is that going without a belt should be determined by how it would look on a given outfit rather than as a set rule for everything in your wardrobe, so if you find yourself in a position that requires dressing up on a regular basis, it's good to have as many options as you can at your disposal.

            No matter your preference, Enzo Custom can design and tailor suits exactly to your liking. Our expert clothiers can give you additional guidance when it comes to whether your style sensibilities and body type are better complemented by belts, suspenders, or simply relying on precise measurements for support. To get started, stop into one of our showrooms today, or if you feel more comfortable at home you can schedule a free consultation via videoconference.

Just like most other fashion accessories, belts also serve both a functional and stylistic purpose, adding extra trouser support Along with a visual complement to the rest of a person's ensemble.  Although there are several pros and cons of each type of support system, choosing belts over suspenders and vice versa is always going to come down to a matter of personal preference.

Breaking Tradition Without The Belt: Styles That Work (And Some That Don't)

            It doesn't matter if you're set on going all in on an elaborate ceremony at a swanky hotel or tying the knot in front of a justice of the peace; it goes without saying that one's wedding day is one of the most important, if not the most important day in a person's life. Surrounded by extended friends and family or saying "I do" in a more intimate and private ceremony, it's expected that most people want to look their best whenever they reach that unforgettable life milestone.

            With that milestone, of course, come plenty of stressful moments in a wedding's planning stages as couples try to nail down their version of the perfect day. Figuring out the venue, catering, guest lists, entertainment, and other logistical nuances can be overwhelming, especially when you haven't done something as grand as putting on a wedding before. On top of all the many things planning a wedding entails, one of the simplest things to decide on also happens to be one of the most contentious, and we're talking about dress codes. No matter what you ultimately choose to do, it's pretty much impossible to satisfy everyone in attendance, so before we go on, keep one thing in mind: do what feels right, for you and your spouse-to-be. That being said, there are certain things that can guide you more or less in the right direction when it comes to selecting a dress code—or none at all—for your wedding.

            Common wedding dress codes include black-tie, black-tie optional, formal, casual, cocktail, and everyday. But even when you don't spell out a dress code on the invitations, weddings will tend to have an implied dress code most guests will be primed to follow, almost always skewing toward formal and cocktail attire. Although you ultimately must do what you want to do, certain dress codes will have a better chance of keeping your guests happier than others. And nothing quite makes or breaks a wedding like the overall vibe of the crowd in attendance.

            In any event, the best thing to do when it comes to dress codes for your wedding is at the very least make sure your guests get the memo. There's nothing worse than having your guests show up to a wedding where they find themselves either one-upping the bride and groom or feeling underdressed and out of place. In this piece, we'll go over the best ways in which to go about finding that perfect dress code for your perfect day, whether you're looking for something traditional or a little more outside the norm.

            Aside from the type of venue and the size of your wedding, the geographic location of your ceremony and reception is an important factor to consider when you're shopping around for different dress codes. Holding a wedding right on the beach close to the water might require a different sort of suit than a wedding held at a fancy hotel. Likewise, a destination wedding far away from most of your family and friends may require a more flexible dress code than if you were to hold your ceremony indoors somewhere locally. Nothing is ironclad of course, but as a general rule, the farther distance required for your guests to travel, the more forgiving your wedding dress code should be. Most people own at least one suit and won't have a difficult time picking one up if they don't, but not everyone has a tuxedo or a white-tie ensemble at their disposal. While it's ultimately up to you, it never hurts to take the logistical concerns of your guests into consideration when you're on the fence about going with a black-tie-only or a more standard formal dress code.

            Although it's less of a concern when you're holding your wedding at an indoor venue, you may also want to consider the time of year in deciding which dress code, or variation thereof, would be best. Opting for a black-tie wedding in most geographic locales could work very well during the fall and winter months when the air tends to be cooler and drier; the extra components of a tuxedo are less inclined to make your guests uncomfortable when the weather calls for a few extra layers. Conversely, when the weather gets warmer, a semi-formal or cocktail dress code might be better suited for your guests, as it will give those in attendance a little bit more flexibility.

            In recent years it's becoming more common for wedding invitations to specify black-tie attire for the ceremony. While there are many benefits to a black-tie-only wedding, the overall consensus is mixed on the practice. If you receive a wedding invitation that indicates black-tie only, it means what it says. The guests in attendance are expected to wear proper black-tie attire: tuxedos for men, evening gowns for women.

            The greatest benefit to a black-tie-only dress code is the uniformity it can bring to a wedding ceremony, as your guests will not have to play a guessing game when it comes to the attire they're supposed to wear. Without confusion over the dress code, so long as everyone in attendance follows what the wedding party expects, the partygoers are less liable to stand out by being either overdressed or underdressed. Your wedding photos could also end up looking more professional when everyone in attendance is donning their best formal attire.

            Imposing a black-tie-only dress code, however, can sometimes draw the ire of your wedding guests, especially if they had to travel a great distance to get there. In addition to plane tickets and lodging, your guests may have to incur the extra expense of purchasing or renting a tuxedo or evening gown if they didn't already have one on hand in their wardrobe. You also run the risk of your guests simply disregarding the dress code to varying degrees, which could cause a bit of awkwardness depending on how rigidly dress codes are enforced in your social circles.

            Rather than outright mandate tuxedos and evening gowns, some couples opt for a black-tie-optional dress code on their big day. Unlike black-tie-only affairs, the black-tie-optional dress code allows for more choices and more flexibility in terms of what guests are expected to wear. For black-tie-optional events, it's perfectly fine to wear a full tuxedo, but formal dark suits and unconventional variations of the tuxedo are also acceptable. It's easy to think of black-tie optional as any mode of dress that fits somewhere between full black tie and a notch or two above cocktail attire.

            A black-tie-optional dress code is a great way to balance formality with convenience. It conveys a sense of importance without forcing your guests to make last-minute purchases or taking extra time to get ready. For couples who want all the formality of a black-tie wedding without some of the hassles that can come with it, black-tie-optional provides balance among the upper tiers of formal dress codes and still allows your guests to look their very best.

            There are, of course, a couple downsides that come with a black-tie-optional dress code. Compared to black-tie only, you'll have to contend with the loss of uniformity as far as your guests' ensembles go. Any dress code that has optional in its name is going to allow for more deviations that may even surpass what is expected in terms of formality. Black-tie optional is still a formal dress code; it doesn't mean that anything goes. Unfortunately, some of your guests may be confused by this and end up wearing something far more casual that's not exactly appropriate for the occasion. While it is a risk and our combined experience has seen our fair share of outlandish outfits when the dress code isn't necessarily set in stone, it's a small risk since black-tie optional implies formality in its name. In most cases, especially at weddings, the benefits of black-tie optional still outweigh any potential drawbacks.

            Although a tier down from black-tie optional in terms of formality, cocktail attire has been a popular wedding dress code for the better part of a century. Men are generally expected to wear a suit and tie, but the unspoken rules about colors and patterns tend to be more relaxed. Cocktail attire seeks to find that happy medium between comfortable and sophisticated, allowing guests to look their best but also feel casual while they do it.

            Opting for cocktail attire in lieu of more formal dress codes can put your guests' minds at ease, as they'll be able to enjoy the ceremony and reception without worrying too much about tuxedo studs falling out or bow ties that are too off center. The variety resulting from less restrained individual styles can also really liven up a party. Even something as simple as a pocket square can make for a good talking piece when it's worn with confidence.

            Since there's a bit of a grey area between cocktail attire and modes of formal and semi-formal dress, there's a chance that some of your guests might show up either overdressed or underdressed. It's pretty much a given that it's better to be overdressed in most circumstances, and more often than not people have a good idea of what is appropriate and what isn't. In any case, it's unlikely that any of your guests will feel left out if they unwittingly forego a jacket or tie, as the broader spread of style variations within cocktail attire can be a good cover for the few who may have neglected the finer points of that particular style.

            At the end of the day, the dress code at your wedding should reflect what feels right for your individual sensibilities. While some couples may encourage their guests to simply come as they are, others want the full wedding experience that comes with a more elegant mode of dress. Tailoring the dress code on your big day is just as important as tailoring your formal wear with personal style in mind. Whether you choose to get married on the beach in an exotic location or in a more traditional setting with church bells and ballrooms, the key is to make it memorable, however you decide to go about it.

It goes without saying that one's wedding day is one of the most important, if not the most important day in a person's life. It's expected that most people want to look their best whenever they reach that unforgettable life milestone.

The Wedding Dress Code Debate: To Have Or Not To Have

            In the realm of men's formal wear, the tuxedo continues to hold the number-one spot for elegance, formality, and personal style. Although the white-tie dress code still exists in some form, black-tie is the de facto ultimate dress code for special occasions around the globe and has been for the better part of a century. Unlike other fashion trends that tend to ebb and flow, the tuxedo has remained rather fixed and unchanged, establishing itself as the classic hallmark of memorable events, weddings, and other life milestones that require something more than just a suit and tie.

            For men, the black-tie dress code is oddly the most formal (for all practical purposes) and the easiest to follow. As black-tie events ensure a semblance of uniformity, there isn't too much room for deviation from what a typical tuxedo should encompass. So long as you have a properly tied bow tie, a cummerbund or a vest, satin stripes down the sides of your trousers, and patent leather shoes, you'll fit right in at any event that requires the black-tie dress code. But in order to pull off that striking look every gentleman strives for in a tuxedo, you have to go beyond just the basics.

            So what exactly makes a superb, stylish tuxedo? Just like most things fashion-related, it all comes down to the finer details. Getting your bow tie just right no matter how long it takes, folding your pocket square to balance charm with symmetry, and even choosing the right cufflinks and shirt studs all go into elevating your tuxedo a step above everyone else's. With black-tie-optional dress codes becoming more popular for weddings and cocktail parties, gentlemen now have the ability to move away from the rigid rules of strict black-tie outings and take their personal style a step further. In this piece we'll cover mastering the art of the tuxedo, as well as unconventional styles that make a good fit for those black-tie-optional outings.

            While some gentlemen are excited to receive a wedding invitation in the mail that specifies a black-tie-optional dress code, others dread it, perhaps only because of its perceived ambiguity. Black-tie-only is easy, because there's no question about what is required, in spite of the possible inconvenience of running out to purchase a tuxedo at the last minute. Black-tie-optional, on the other hand, leaves plenty of room to either be underdressed or even overdressed in some cases, depending on what the bride and groom are wearing. Black-tie-optional can mean different things to different people, but generally it encompasses everything from standard formal wear all the way up to a classic tuxedo, and whether you opt for a two-piece suit or a full tux with a wingtip collar and bow tie is completely up to you. When it's presented that way, it certainly becomes less confusing than some people make it out to be. In any event, there are times when black-tie-optional is called for, and other times when it isn't.

            If you choose to deviate from the rigid black-tie dress code, make sure that whatever event you're going to specifies the black-tie component as an option rather than a requirement. For example, if you receive a wedding invite that doesn't mention black-tie at all, you're going to be better off opting for a two- or three-piece suit in lieu of a tuxedo, as going with the latter could leave you looking way too overdressed. You don't want to find yourself in a situation where you upstage the bride and groom.

            For black-tie-only events, it's not uncommon to run into people who took that dress code suggestion with too many grains of salt. Still, it's best to let someone else be that guy. If it's a black-tie-only event, keeping to the standards of a classic tuxedo is your best bet, because if you don't there's a good chance you might actually be the only one who ran afoul of the dress code. It's best not to risk it. But if you find yourself anticipating a black-tie-optional event where that dress code is explicitly stated and you're not quite sure how to present yourself, deviating from the classic tuxedo can be a lot of fun, and you'll get better at it the more often you do it.

--Unconventional Black-Tie-Optional Styles--

            Not long ago, wearing a necktie with a tuxedo was practically unthinkable. Although this unconventional fashion statement isn't universally embraced, it's certainly much more common now than it used to be. But if you dare to pull this off, there are a few things to keep in mind.

            If you plan to wear a necktie with a tuxedo, don't just reach for any old tie in your wardrobe. Black skinny ties will look best, and only do this if you're sure that you'll be going to a black-tie-optional event. Wearing a necktie is generally frowned upon for black-tie-only outings. While this look can add a touch of sleek modernity to your formal ensemble, be mindful of the type of shirt you wear. Neckties should never be worn with wingtip collars, so if you decide to rock a necktie with your tux, opt for a tuxedo shirt with a spread collar instead, as it will conceal the back of your tie in the event you need to take your jacket off for any reason.

            Although black is the safest option for bow ties, black-tie-optional dress codes allow plenty of deviations from this. Sometimes one of the best ways to go off the beaten path of traditional black-tie attire is to simply liven up the colors and patterns on your tie and pocket square, even if you keep everything else about your tuxedo within the confines of black-tie rigidity. Whether you choose a more restrained dark blue or go nuts with stripes and polka dots, a little extra color in your tie and pocket square can go a long way in giving your outfit some extra pizzazz without resorting to anything drastic that might take away from your personal style.

            While it's hard to overstate the power of subtlety, sometimes an occasion rightfully calls for throwing restraint to the wind, but even so, we would exercise caution in straying too far away from common fashion sense. Even though you might be able to pull off a plaid bow tie, doing the same with a plaid tuxedo from head to toe might be a bit of a challenge. If you're going to mix and match colors, try to stay within the confines of what you would normally do if you were venturing out to any other formal event that didn't require a tuxedo. Unless your goal is to stand out in a very pronounced way, sometimes the best thing to do for black-tie-optional affairs is to wear the best suit you have in lieu of reinventing the tuxedo. But if you must do the latter, focus your attention on the details that would be noticeable in a conversation rather than from across the room.  Opting for unconventional cufflinks or shirt studs can add a bit of charm to your ensemble without relying on garish gimmicks.

            Unconventional style considerations aside, nailing down the tuxedo correctly requires certain fundamental aspects that cannot be overlooked, whether you go the traditional route or strive for something a little more avant-garde.

            As the same goes for two- and three-piece suits, getting properly fitted for a tuxedo is key to wearing one with confidence. With tuxedos, there is even less room for error with regard to body dimensions, as they have more components that need to work synergistically with one another. A waistcoat that is too loose will alter the way in which the jacket fits over your shoulders. Conversely, a cummerbund that is too tight can restrict your movement and make your shirt appear bunched up. Compared to a custom suit, a tuxedo will always have more potential points of failure, so it's extremely important to get fitted properly in order to avoid any discrepancies that could throw off the symmetry of your ensemble. Venturing into more unconventional styles is also easier to pull off when your measurements are on point, since anything that stands out stylistically will always draw attention to any structural flaws that would have gone unnoticed with a more conventional presentation. By ensuring that your tuxedo is accurately measured to your body dimensions, you automatically allow yourself more leeway if you choose to move into uncharted territory from a style standpoint.

             Aside from knowing the technical aspects of the tuxedo and how all of its components work together, context can be just as important. Knowing the type of venue you're set to attend can give you plenty of insight as far as what you'll feel comfortable with in terms of those style judgment calls that aren't so cut and dry. Being the best man at your brother's wedding, for example, is going to be different from attending an after-work function where rules about dress code are assumed to be more relaxed. Whether you stay within the bounds of tradition or go with something that pushes a few boundaries, you have to be comfortable in what you wear, both in terms of style and how it literally fits.

            Here at Enzo Custom, our expert clothiers can give you the proper guidance when it comes to the technical aspects of your next ensemble, as well as insights into what will work best for your own brand of personal style. Whether you prefer to stop into one of our showrooms or meet with us via videoconference, our combined years of experience can get you ready for your next black-tie (or black-tie-optional) event on your schedule.

Black-tie is the de facto ultimate dress code for special occasions around the globe and has been for the better part of a century. Unlike other fashion trends that tend to ebb and flow, the tuxedo has remained rather fixed and unchanged, establishing itself as the classic hallmark of memorable events.

Mastering The Art Of The Tuxedo: Unconventional Styles For Black-Tie Optional

Aside from fitting into the front pocket of your suit jacket, pocket squares should fit just as well into your personal style when they're worn correctly and with confidence. As far as accessories go, pocket squares are one of the most versatile add-ons in terms of giving your overall ensemble that extra finesse and style facelift all gentlemen strive for. Less constrained by some of the more rigid fashion rules that dictate what patterns and colors you can match together, pocket squares give you the option to either edge your style into a wilder abandon or simply add just a little bit of flair to a more minimalist fashion sensibility.

            In today's landscape, pocket squares exclusively serve an aesthetic purpose, but their origins can be traced back to the handkerchief, usually worn on the inside of a suit jacket meant for personal hygiene purposes such as wiping one's hands, face, or nose. As the handkerchief evolved, the material itself morphed into an indicator of a person's socioeconomic status; once societies became more egalitarian, the pocket square cemented itself as a way to elevate personal style without relying on elaborate upgrades or over-the-top fashion statements. Depending on one's geographic region and corresponding culture, the terms handkerchief and pocket square are sometimes interchangeable, although the former implies a more practical use than the latter.

            On average, pocket squares range between 10 x 10 and 17 x 17 inches. Fabrics will vary, but it's common for pocket squares to be made from either silk or a synthetic blend. Thanks to their symmetrical dimensions, pocket squares are easy to fold into a variety of different patterns that, when done properly, will give your personal style a subtle edge. In this piece we'll go over some of the more popular ways gentlemen fold their pocket squares, all with varying degrees of skill required to pull them off fashionably.

            The great thing about pocket squares is that many of the more common ways to fold them require very little acuity and practically no time at all. When you're running a bit behind schedule for a black-tie event, seconds matter, especially when getting your tuxedo just right can require some extra attention. Adding a pocket square with a presidential fold can take 30 seconds or less, which is perhaps why this fold is also one of the most popular.

            With the pocket square face down, simply fold it in half from right to left. Then fold it in half again in the opposite direction (left to right), leaving a small gap toward the right edge. Instead of a square you should now have a narrower vertical rectangle. Fold this in half from top to bottom, and then fold the bottom open edges behind the front of the square. Once you make minor adjustments accordingly, you now have a pocket square with a presidential fold, one that should peek out of the top of your pocket with an edge parallel to the ground. Simple yet sleek, a white pocket square with a presidential fold is a great way to spruce up your black-tie attire in a restrained and subtle way.

            On some occasions, you may want to go up a notch from the presidential fold but without doing something too elaborate. The single-peak fold, or one-point fold as it is sometimes called, is one way to do this. Just like the presidential fold, the single-peak fold is restrained and elegant, with just a little bit more of an edge.

            To achieve this fold, lay the pocket square flat in the shape of a diamond. Take the bottom point and fold it to the top point, which should form a triangle. Now, fold both bottom end points inward. After some minor adjustments, you should be able to place the folded square into your pocket with the formed triangular peak jutting out of the top. As the one-point fold is easier and faster than tying a tie with a standard four-in-hand knot, it's a popular choice for all occasions that require a boost in personal style while still retaining subtlety.

            Rounding out the easy ones, the classic fold is a variation of the presidential fold. The fold will yield a similar style with just a touch of extra frill, as it is folded in a slightly different way than its presidential counterpart.

            The first two steps are exactly the same. Lay the square flat and then fold from right to left. Instead of folding in the opposite direction for the third step, fold the rectangle in half from bottom to top. Then fold the square from left to right. Finally, fold the bottom behind the front. In lieu of a flat crease that a presidential fold should deliver, the classic fold should give the appearance of a few offset layers peeking out of the top of your pocket. Some gentlemen find that the slight asymmetry adds a bit of charm to their ensemble, much in the same way a bow tie would.

            The aforementioned basic pocket square folds tend to work best with solid colors, in particular white when you're preparing for black-tie affairs. But sometimes your personal style might require something that stands out just a little more. Pairing your typical pocket square with a fold that demands some extra technical finesse is an effective way to ratchet up your sense of style a notch or two while still retaining a sense of subtlety.

            Giving your pocket square a two-peak fold follows similar steps that you would use for a single-peak fold, with one minor alteration. Once you lay your pocket square flat in a diamond position, fold the bottom end up, only this time offset the points; you should now have two peaks at the top of your pocket square. Then take the bottom ends and fold them inward. If necessary, you can fold the base up and under the front for a better fit inside your front pocket. Instead of one point, you should now have two visible points above your pocket. This fold works great for both solid and patterned pocket squares.

            For something with even more flair, consider the three-peak fold. To achieve this, you'll need to lay your pocket square flat in the diamond position again. Fold the right point directly over the left one, which should give you a triangle with the long side in a vertical position. Then take the bottom end and fold it up just to the right of the top point; you should now have two sharp points at the top of your pocket square. Holding the top layer of the pocket square in place, carefully fold the bottom corner up toward the right of the second peak. Fold the remaining bottom corners up and behind the front of the pocket square. Once you adjust everything to your liking, you'll now have three distinct points visible from your jacket pocket. This style pairs well with double-breasted suits, as the three points complement the peak lapels more common on double-breasted jackets.

            When it comes to the puff fold, this style is less of a fold and more of an art, as the puff generally requires a few exercises in trial and error to nail down correctly. With the pocket square placed on a flat surface, do your best to pinch the very center of the square and pick it up. Now that the center point is in your hand, run your other hand all the way down the material to even out the bottom points. With the bottom points in your other hand, tap the top point lightly. This should give the point a distinct puff. Carefully fold the bottom points inward and adjust accordingly so it fits easily into your suit pocket. Each time you do this, the puff will never be exactly the same, so you may need to repeat these steps a few times before you get the puff exactly to your personal liking.  For some extra flair, you can also choose to do a reverse puff fold, which only requires one extra step. Instead of folding the bottom points inward, fold them in half directly behind the puff and turn the pocket square around. The puff should then appear as if the corners of the pocket square surround it.

            The winged-peak fold, or split-diamond fold, is a variation on the standard single-peak fold with an added element of sharpness. In lieu of a smooth triangular peak, the split diamond gives the appearance of a crease down the middle of the peak. For this fold, you may want to use a pocket square with a more rigid material so its shape holds without sagging. With the pocket square on a flat surface, fold the top part down to make a horizontal rectangle. Then fold the right half over the left side to make a square again. Diagonally fold the square to make a smaller triangle. Take the bottom end points of the triangle and fold them toward the top center point; this should yield a diamond with a crease down the center of the folded pocket square. Once you get the placement right in your jacket pocket, you should have a perfectly formed peak with a prominent crease. Pocket squares with solid colors work best with this fold, and you may want to use one with larger dimensions to accentuate the spread of the peak.

            While there is certainly no shortage of different ways to style pocket squares, especially as the complexity of the folds increases, one of the most difficult folds to pull off correctly is the rose pocket square fold. The rose generally requires even more attempts than the puff fold, so make sure you leave yourself ample time to get ready if you choose to add this level of flair to your personal style. With your non-dominant hand, form a small hole between your thumb and index finger. Center the pocket square over your hand and push a small amount of material through the gap, keeping a tight grip on the material now in your hand. Take your dominant hand and gently twist the top of the pocket square until there is no more loose fabric. This will allow the material to gradually overlap, giving the appearance of a rose at the top of the pocket square. Carefully remove the pocket square from your hand and smooth out the bottom half. Once you fluff up the rose and make some minor adjustments (keeping in mind to do this very delicately), simply slide it into your jacket pocket and allow your pocket square to take your style to the next level. The rose can appear exceptionally sophisticated when the fabric of your pocket square boasts elaborate patterns or tight alternating strands of color.

            Although pocket squares aren't a necessary component of formal wear, they do serve an undeniably useful purpose. Pairing one with your next Enzo Custom suit will bring your personal style into the foreground, whether you strive for boldness or seek out subtlety in your wardrobe.

As far as accessories go, pocket squares are one of the most versatile add-ons in terms of giving your overall ensemble that extra finesse and style facelift all gentlemen strive for. Pocket squares give you the option to either edge your style into a wilder abandon or simply add just a little bit of flair to a more minimalist fashion sensibility.

Folding Pocket Squares To Fit Your Style

A custom suit encompasses more than just premium fabric, perfect fit, and unmatched style. For any formal wear worth its salt, it goes without saying that the finer details are what elevate an ensemble above the ordinary, down to every last stitch, button, and crease. While it's true that aspects such as color, style, and fit tend to be the first things we notice when it comes to formal wear, it's the hidden details that effortlessly push those more obvious parts of a custom suit to the forefront.

            As far as personal fashion sensibility goes, it would cease to exist at all without those subtler parts of custom tailoring. In order for one's own style to really shine through, the constituent components of a custom suit need to gel and come together just the right way for the individual wearing it. And of course, time and place matter, too. What style works for someone in an office setting might not be the best choice for a wedding or cocktail party; for others, their personal style may be interchangeable no matter the time of day or the venue. With custom design, there are so many variables at play, and that's a good thing from a style perspective.

            Since so many components, design schematics, materials, and aesthetic nuances go into the finished product, it's sometimes difficult to grasp how all of these different aspects work symbiotically to give a custom suit, tailored to a specific individual, that sense of style they've been looking for but could never quite nail down. Since we've updated our custom suit visualizer, getting a better picture of what your finished product will look like has never been easier, all the way from the vents in the back of the jacket down to every last thread of fabric. In this piece, we'll go over some of those finer details that take custom suits to the next level.

            It tends to be one of those things that we hardly notice or even look for. But they can go a long way in determining the formality of a particular ensemble. Chances are, you might not even know the exact number of suits in your wardrobe that have only one vent, two vents, or none at all off the top of your head. It's certainly something most of us don't even think about after a purchase, but the vents on a jacket can do quite a lot in setting the overall tone and style of a given suit. Although vents mainly serve the functional purpose of making it more comfortable to wear a suit in a sitting position, they do have style implications as well.

            Following archetypal classic American sensibilities, many suit jackets on the market today contain only one vent, and there's a reason why this sleek yet minimal style remains a popular choice for gentlemen around the world. The center or single vent, as it is also known, is an excellent choice for all body types and works well in both formal and informal settings. A standard feature on many two-piece suits, the single vent also makes its appearance on sport coats and blazers, thanks in large part to its versatility and ease of manufacture. For men who lean toward a subtler, no-frills classic style, the center vent combines minimalism and just a touch of flair for a refined yet laid-back aesthetic that's certainly not falling out of fashion any time soon.

            Suit jackets with two vents, also known as double or side vents, have some functional advantages over the more common center-vent style. The extra space provided by two vents rather than one allows for easier movement and more comfort when sitting down. Side vents also reduce bunching and creasing that can occur at the back of the jacket when in a sitting position for long periods of time. Stylistically, many gentlemen consider side vents to ratchet up a suit's perceived formality and finesse, and they would be right, to a degree. Wearing a suit with side vents is harder to pull off correctly, as it requires much greater precision in terms of getting the proper measurements and fit in order to achieve the intended visual effect. Side vents have the ability to not only slim down a person's figure but also add an inch or two in terms of a person's perceived height due to the vertical creases on the back of the jacket. So long as you weigh the potential pros and cons of a double-vented suit, proper tailoring and a precise fit can bring your personal style to the next level.

            Less common than center or double vents, some suits come with no vent at all. This is actually the standard for tuxedos worn in formal black-tie settings. At the expense of additional comfort, a suit with no vents that is tailored accurately can provide a very sleek and uniform appearance. The drawback, of course, is that the jacket may be prone to more bunching and unwanted creases, but it's an option to consider, especially if you have a slimmer build.

            Even more elusive to the eye than jacket vents, not too much thought is given to the buttons on a suit, as they predominantly serve a functional rather than aesthetic purpose. However, buttons can provide a suit with a subtle, refined attention to detail that other components are often unable to do. Just like cufflinks and lapel pins, buttons can round out a suit's overall style not in spite of their perceived insignificance but because of it.

            In the case of tuxedos, the buttons are usually made from the same material as the jacket itself. For many custom suits made with formality in mind, buttons generally match the material of the suit in some way, whether by color or even the type of fabric. But when it comes to buttons, more flexibility is available from a fashion standpoint. Depending on the fabric's color, for example, pairing black buttons with a neutral grey suit can make a bold style statement when done confidently, as the accents from offset colors allow a suit to really stand out in a good but almost imperceptible way. With this in mind, there are, however, a few hard and fast rules for buttons on a suit.

            First and foremost, the smaller buttons normally found on the jacket sleeve should always match the buttons on the front of the jacket. Mixing and matching colors between the buttons themselves, however slight, will throw off a suit's stylistic symmetry.

            How you fasten the front buttons on a suit jacket is also just as important from a style perspective. For two-button suits, the top button should always be fastened while the bottom one should remain unbuttoned. If you decide to go with a suit that has three buttons, the bottom one operates under the same rules as a two-button suit, that is, it should be left open. The middle button should always be closed, while the very top button is more or less a judgment call. It can be left open or closed, depending on your personal preference and how high the lapels are positioned. In any event, with a three-button suit jacket, you should follow whatever looks the best for the suit you happen to be wearing at the time and your individual body dimensions. Just make sure to always leave the bottom one undone.

            In contrast to buttons and vents, lapels tend to stand out the most and play an important role in how a suit conveys your personal sense of style. Depending on the type of suit you intend to wear, whether it falls in the British, American, or Italian category, lapels are a key component in setting the tone of your overall presentation.

            In the realm of formal wear, there are three standard lapel types. Peak, notch, and shawl lapels all have varying degrees of style connotations, sometimes dependent upon the level of formality and overall sharpness desired for a given ensemble.

            Shawl lapels are the gold standard for tuxedos. As a result, they are considered the most formal type, having a smooth rounded shape from the neck down to the front tuxedo button. Since tuxedos are designed with uniformity in mind, it's likely that you won't see shawl lapels too often outside of black-tie affairs. While some tuxedos sold on the market today deviate from this standard, opting for a shawl lapel ensures that you'll achieve a very high level of formality in your style. 

            Double-breasted suits and some three-piece suits tend to favor the peak lapel, easily recognized by the extending points just below the shoulders. Bold and broad, peak lapels give gentlemen the ability to make a robust fashion statement without going overboard.

            Notch lapels, in contrast, are considered less formal but do have style perks of their own. Most common on standard two-piece suits, the symmetrical points on notch lapels don't extend past the lapel itself, which renders a style that is formal yet simultaneously relaxed and restrained. For gentlemen who prefer a more minimalist and modest approach to fashion, notch lapels can still provide a sleek classic appearance ideal for both the workplace and those special occasions.

            By paying close attention to the finer details of a custom suit, you'll be able to narrow down a better sense of style that you can truly call your own. Before you even schedule a consultation with one of our clothiers, Enzo Custom's online visualizer can assist you in getting a clearer picture of what your ideal suit will look like once you're ready to turn those imagined prototypes into a reality. No matter your level of experience in the realm of formal wear, we've got you covered, head to toe.

A custom suit encompasses more than just premium fabric, perfect fit, and unmatched style. While it's true that aspects such as color, style, and fit tend to be the first things we notice when it comes to formal wear, it's the hidden details that effortlessly push those more obvious parts of a custom suit to the forefront.

Vents, Lapels, and Buttons: All The Details That Round Out A Custom Suit

Whether you're walking into a major big-box retailer or diligently researching online for a reputable custom tailor, the process of buying a suit can sometimes be a bit intimidating at first. With all the options available in the clothing marketplace today, narrowing down exactly what you want in terms of personal style and what you need when it comes to functionality isn't always a streamlined process. As daunting as all of this can be, it's not necessarily a bad thing. As a customer, it's always better to be prepared a little too much than it is to go into the suit-buying process with blinders on.

            Here at Enzo Custom, the fitting process goes above and beyond what you would expect from your typical off-the-rack experience. While it's certainly not as quick as getting fitted in a department store, our clothiers ensure that the additional measurements going into the end product are well worth the extra time.

            Experiences will vary, but most retail chains end up only doing the bare minimum when it comes to measurements. Although many of their suits and tuxedos are manufactured to fit a broad range of individual body dimensions, this doesn't mean that their suits will meet those same dimensions with any precision. Even if they're able to tighten the shoulders or adjust the length of the trousers quite easily, the end result won't be close enough to your specific dimensions in order to give you that bespoke or made-to-measure fit you've been looking for.

            Before we delve into our fitting process, it's always a good idea to do some preliminary research on your own in terms of what you're exactly seeking out when it comes to formal wear. Not only is your personal style going to be different from someone else's but also each type of suit might have different applications, even if some of those overlap. For example, while two-piece suits are a safe bet for everyday office attire, three-piece and double-breasted suits might be a better fit for special occasions the majority of the time. Getting into more style specifics, you might prefer a slimmer fit in lieu of broader lapels or jetted pockets as opposed to flap ones. If you're set on ordering a tuxedo, you might prefer a vest to a cummerbund or vice versa. No matter what your formal wear preferences end up being, Enzo Custom is here to guide you through the process.

--The Free Consultation, At Your Convenience--

            As a courtesy to our customers, Enzo Custom's free consultation can be done either physically in one of our showrooms or virtually online via videoconference. This is the initial step at which one of our clothiers will go over various aspects of what sort of garments we offer, the estimated timeline of when your suit or tuxedo will be ready, and the expected cost when it's all said and done. All of these factors will vary from person to person depending on what they need from us, and the consultation is the opportune time to ask any and all questions you may have about the entire process.

            With a virtual meeting in lieu of an in-person one, depending on where you're located in relation to our physical showrooms, this has the potential to save you a lot of time. Consultations take about 30 minutes, so if you're on a tight schedule, you can work the initial appointment in without needing to set aside extra time for commuting or planning too far ahead. As Enzo Custom offers several different suit styles and materials, our clothier during the virtual conference will be able to get a better sense of what exactly you will need for your next formal ensemble.

            If you choose to have your free consultation in person at one of our showrooms, the process will essentially be the same, with the exception of having a more hands-on approach. Seeing the materials for your prospective suit is one thing, but being able to hold fabric samples in your hand can give you a better idea of how the finished product will feel when you're wearing it. Whether virtual or in-store, we'll ensure that the consultation is as comprehensive as it can be.

            Once the virtual or in-store consultation is completed, our clothier will then schedule a private fitting appointment at one of our showrooms. In order to ensure a true custom fit, our clothier will take up to 31 different measurements. While that might seem like a lot, it's the best way to accurately get the finished product fitting as closely and comfortably as possible to your individual body dimensions.

            After your measurements are taken, the design process then begins. Our clothier will walk you through in more detail what was covered in the free consultation, including style, suit color, fabric, and any special considerations you might need to keep in mind.

            When choosing a fabric, wool is usually the gold standard as far as formal wear goes, but linen is also another popular option for when you need something a little lighter during the summer months. Depending on your individual specifications, thread count may be something you'll need to take into consideration when you weigh different aspects of what you want in the finished product. Balancing style, comfort, longevity, and fit isn't always an easy task, but our clothiers are more than willing to walk you through each facet of the customization process. In total, measurements and working out the design of your new formal ensemble should take about an hour. While the free consultation can always be done virtually, orders and measurements for new clients must be done in one of our stores. While other manufacturers allow their customers to simply plug in their dimensions online, it's still not quite as accurate as having them done in person. By getting all of your measurements done in one of our showrooms, this ensures that you'll notice and appreciate the Enzo Custom difference once your formal wear is ready to be picked up.

            After your measurements have been taken and you've settled on the design of your formal wear, the order will be placed. Once it arrives, our clothiers will have you come back to our showroom for a private appointment in order to make sure that everything fits to your liking. Going through one final fitting ensures that we can make any last-minute adjustments if necessary. While the initial measurements are always taken with the utmost care and precision, there are times when a sleeve might be a smidge too long or the waist needs to be adjusted. Even with accurate measurements, a suit might have a different feel to it depending on how you wear it and the type of shirt you have underneath it. Think of the final fitting as a quality control measure to go over the finer details of your formal ensemble one last time, as this will save you from making any immediate alterations after you head out the door.

            Once you've gone through the Enzo Custom experience the first time, the process will be a bit more streamlined when you decide to buy formal wear from us again. As we will already have your measurements on file, ordering again doesn't require an in-store meeting. Any shopping you need to do can be done virtually without the need to repeat the measuring process. While you'll still need to come into one of our showrooms for the final fitting of the finished product, designing a new ensemble to your personal specifications can be done from the comfort and privacy of your own home.

            Although we specialize in suits and tuxedos, there's always more to formal wear than just jackets and trousers. With decades of combined experience, our clothiers can guide you in the right direction when it comes to other items you may need, such as dress shirts, ties, pocket squares, vests, and the types of colors and patterns that will end up looking the best for your own personal sense of style. All of these extra considerations can be touched upon in the virtual consultation to give you a better picture of what your finished formal ensemble will be.

            There are a couple other things to keep in mind once your virtual or in-person consultation is completed. As you're preparing to arrive at one of our showrooms for the fitting process, wearing the proper shoes will allow our clothiers to take more accurate measurements of the trouser length. Dress shoes that you would normally wear with a suit or a pair of slacks will ensure that the finished product drapes correctly without the need for any significant adjustments in the future. If you're looking to purchase a tuxedo from us, we'd recommend wearing the exact shoe you plan on pairing with the finished product, as tuxedo pants are generally worn slightly higher than suit trousers and patent-leather shoes normally worn with a tuxedo tend to have a lower profile than other dress shoes worn in contexts outside of black-tie affairs.

            The same logic should be applied to dress shirts as well. Wearing a dress shirt you intend to wear with your finished ensemble is especially important during the final fitting, as you'll be able to determine how well the suit jacket fits over it, and if there are any issues, our clothiers can make adjustments accordingly.

            With virtual consultations available at your convenience, shopping with us is easier than it's ever been. Whether you're looking to expand your existing wardrobe or just starting to get your feet wet in the realm of formal attire, Enzo Custom has all of your bases covered.

With all the options available in the clothing marketplace today, narrowing down exactly what you want in terms of personal style and what you need when it comes to functionality isn't always a streamlined process. As a customer, it's always better to be prepared a little too much than it is to go into the suit-buying process with blinders on.

Flexibility At Your Convenience: Appointments That Come To You

As you become accustomed to the ins and outs of formal wear over time, you'll likely understand that suits, tuxedos, and dress shirts have a wide variety of applications across a broad spectrum of settings that range from the everyday and routine to the special and exceptional. Whether your office dress code requires a jacket and tie throughout any given work week or you end up having to jet off to a wedding every so often, it's easy to come to the conclusion that having at least some assortment of formal wear in your wardrobe is a net positive.

            Although formal attire has retained its dominance in certain workplace settings and special occasions, it has slowly fallen by the wayside in terms of its practical use when it comes to so-called third places, and we're referring to social gathering spots outside the realm of the workplace and the home. Not long ago, standards of dress were commonplace in restaurants, private clubs, and even some music venues. While you're much less likely to encounter any sort of dress code when you show up to a restaurant in any given city these days, dress codes haven't completely disappeared. Depending on the type of establishment and the region in which it is located, you might be surprised to find out that your patronage could be refused for showing up in denim or even wearing the wrong type of shoes. 

            Some would argue that rigid dress codes outside of special occasions and the workplace are fussy, unnecessary, and anachronistic. Others say that it allows business owners to control the overall atmosphere inside their restaurant or establishment in order to heighten the dining experience. No matter how you feel about dress codes when it comes to restaurants, it's true that they haven't completely faded into obscurity. In this piece, we'll go over the finer points of when and where you might have to pay attention to what you're wearing before you decide to head out for a night on the town.

            It's no surprise that standards of dress can vary greatly by region, and this definitely carries over into whether restaurants in any given locale are more likely to take your business with open arms or send you home so you can put on slacks and a sport coat before returning. In practice, the majority of restaurant dress codes these days are treated more as guidelines rather than rules set in stone in all but the most upscale establishments, so bear in mind that you'll likely encounter a little bit of flexibility when it comes to standards of dress no matter where you are. However, our combined experience would tell us that certain regions are more likely to be a little more concerned with adhering to dress codes than others.

            Breaking it down by regions in the United States, you're significantly more likely to encounter dress codes in restaurants if you happen to be in a major metropolitan area in the northeast and certain portions of the south. Conversely, enforcement of any dress codes in the southwest is practically nonexistent, as this largely has to do with the temperature extremes the region experiences during the summer months. The same could be said for most of the mountain west and the Pacific coastal regions, with Los Angeles and San Francisco being notable exceptions, where older, more established restaurants still retain their dress codes that many others have abandoned. The general rule of thumb is that if you find yourself in a city with a vibrant solidified food culture such as Chicago, New Orleans, or New York, you're more likely to encounter a higher number of restaurants that will take their dress codes more seriously.

            Perhaps even more important than the locale you find yourself in is the type of establishment you're planning on visiting. Going above and beyond the ubiquitous "no shirt, no shoes, no service" standard, upscale eateries and top-rated restaurants may require something a little more formal from their patrons. Higher-end steakhouses, seafood restaurants that charge market price, and any establishment that's been able to build up a decades-long reputation of consistent high-quality service all are more likely to skew toward a more formal way of dress if they encourage or mandate a dress code. In practice, while most places with dress codes won't require you to show up in a full suit and tie, they might frown upon or have set rules against running shoes, denim, or shirts without a collar, for example.

            Aside from high-end restaurants that are open to the general public, dress codes are a frequent feature of private establishments and country clubs, with varying degrees of standards and enforcement. When it comes to country clubs and golf courses, their dress codes outlined in the fine print tend to cover way more potential infractions than what is enforced in practice. What seems to be more or less universal in this context, however, is the prohibition on denim and T-shirts, even when you're not actively using their facilities. Taking it a step further, some private clubs might have different standards of dress depending on whether you plan on playing golf or eating there, so if there are any doubts, your best bet in this situation is to call ahead. The good news is that private establishments such as golf courses skew their dress codes toward the informal, so eating there generally won't require anything more than a polo shirt and a pair of slacks under normal circumstances.

            Less commonly, you might still encounter dress codes in select locales when it comes to nightclubs and after-hours establishments, although in practice the dress codes implemented in these places tend to focus more on shoes than anything else, as a way to ensure the safety of their patrons rather than enforce a particular atmosphere or vibe. So long as you don't show up in flip-flops and pay the cover charge, you'll in all likelihood be granted entry. But there are a few holdouts in some cities that do still to this day encourage more formal mode of dress, so before you venture out for a given evening, it's best to do some preliminary research so you don't end up having to go home and end the night early.

            Restaurants these days that still implement some sort of dress code tend to overwhelmingly do so during evening dining hours as opposed to during the day. Historically this makes sense, since events held during the evening and nighttime hours have always had more formal expectations across the board than daytime gatherings. Depending on where you are, you may find that restaurants that open briefly for lunch and then close before they reopen for dinner implement a more formal dress code during the evening and have fewer, if any, requirements for the lunch crowd. As office dress codes have skewed more informal over the years, stumbling upon a restaurant during the day packed with nothing but people in suits and ties is certainly a rare sight these days. As a result, third places have accommodated this change by loosening their dress codes during normal working hours while retaining a higher standard of dress during the evening, when more people are willing to spruce up their attire.

            Just as time of day will have an effect on the dress codes of some establishments, time of year can also be of equal importance. As more people are encouraged to dress more formally when the weather outside is more conducive to wearing multiple layers, dress code enforcement tends to be followed more closely in the winter. In the summer months, the opposite is true. Showing up in only a dress shirt to a restaurant that requires a jacket on paper, for example, when the daytime temperature is unseasonably hot likely won't be enough for the establishment to turn you away. Of course these unspoken guidelines of etiquette and practicality aren't universal, so it's always best to exercise some judgment on your part. As a general rule, the more upscale or top-rated an establishment is, the more likely they will rigidly enforce a dress code, if there is one.

            Of the remaining restaurants that still enforce a dress code, the vast majority of them expect a standard of dress that is somewhere between semi-formal and the nicer side of casual in lieu of a coat and tie. While some gentlemen lament the disappearance of the more formal standards associated with the past, the benefit of less rigid dress codes in the present is that you have much greater leeway in terms of accentuating and elevating your own sense of personal style than you would otherwise have under a more stringent rule set. These days, it's much easier to forego a tie or wear something a little more colorful than it was even 20 years ago, so long as you keep your attire within a reasonable range of the level of formality expected by an establishment. If you have any doubts about whether or not a particular place requires its patrons to adhere to a dress code, it's best to call ahead and make sure or check the restaurant's website if they have one. So long as you do some research beforehand and exercise a little common sense, you probably won't run into any issues with any dress code discrepancies.

            No matter what your specific needs are in the realm of formal attire, Enzo Custom has you covered. Don't hesitate to make an appointment with us, as our expert clothiers will help you along in every step of the fitting process. If you feel more comfortable at home, you can also schedule a meeting with us via videoconference. 

Not long ago, standards of dress were commonplace in restaurants, private clubs, and even some music venues. While you're much less likely to encounter any sort of dress code when you show up to a restaurant in any given city these days, dress codes haven't completely disappeared. Depending on the type of establishment and the region in which it is located, you might be surprised to find out that your patronage could be refused for showing up in denim or even wearing the wrong type of shoes.

Dress Codes For Restaurants? No, They Have Not Completely Disappeared

Keeping up with improvements to one's own personal style isn't always an easy task, and one of the most important—and often overlooked—fundamental aspects of doing so is paying attention to the proper maintenance and care of one's formal wear.  While taking your suits and dress shirts to the dry cleaners on a regular basis is a no-brainer, some components of formal wear often don't get the same treatment and attention to detail as the more obvious ones do.  Ask yourself, how often do you launder your ties or take them to the dry cleaners, if at all?  And if you don't, do you really need to start?

            The general consensus regarding the previous question is that yes, you should be cleaning your ties, but only every once in a while.  In practice, however, many gentlemen neglect this task.  If you're not wearing the same tie on a daily basis, the mantra goes, then why bother cleaning them at all if they never get dirty?

            It is true that for things like ties and pocket squares, you don't have to be as regimented in terms of cleaning them on a set schedule as you would for jackets, trousers, and dress shirts, simply because they're not going to get as dirty or wrinkled as your other items of formal wear will throughout any given week.  But even if you're the type of person who takes extra care in making sure that your ties remain relatively undisturbed, either by staying inside the office most of the day or not ordering soup with your lunch, your ties will, at some point, be more prone to wrinkling and accumulating unwanted elements from the outside.  Keeping your ties just as pristine as your other articles of formal wear can go a long way in terms of elevating your personal style.  In this piece, we'll cover the ins and outs of how you should be cleaning your ties, and when.

--How Often Should You Clean Your Ties?--

            Common logic follows the idea that in terms of formal wear, items that are closest to your person should be laundered the most frequently, while the items that are worn farther away can be cleaned less often under normal circumstances.  For example, your undergarments such as undershirts, underwear, and socks should be washed after a single use.  Dress shirts should be cleaned almost as often, while your suit jackets and trousers can last a little longer in their rotation without being taken to the cleaners.  Since ties are worn as the outermost accessory to a formal ensemble, cleaning them on a regular regimented basis isn't necessary.  However, they should be cleaned whenever they do get dirty or noticeably wrinkled.  The extra creases and folds that can form on ties over time with consistent use can make them more prone to attract dust and dirt, so being mindful at the very least of how often you wear a particular tie is important.  The same principles apply to pocket squares, as well.  While they shouldn't be washed anywhere nearly as often as your other articles of formal wear should be, they will eventually need a good cleaning every once in a while.

            Although it's not a good idea to never wash your ties, washing them too often can cause even bigger problems.  While not all ties are made from the same material, many of them are made with more sensitive fabrics that require extra care during the laundering process.  So before you throw any of your ties carelessly into the washing machine or soak them in a utility sink for hours on end, it's vital that you check the labels on your ties to see if they might require any special handling instructions.  Some ties may not come with such a label at all, so if you're unsure of a tie's particular fabric, your best bet is to take it to the dry cleaners, as they will likely have a better idea of how to handle it properly.  Doing this in such a case is certainly better than taking on all the guesswork yourself.

--How To Clean Your Ties: Spot Cleaning--

            Even when we do our best to be extra careful, ties inevitably become magnets for stray coffee, oils, dust, and assortments of other everyday shrapnel.  One effective way to handle these sorts of unavoidable mishaps is simply spot cleaning your ties.  Spot cleaning, unlike other methods of washing your ties, can be done in a relatively short amount of time and doesn't require any sink basins, machines, or special detergents.  While individual methods may vary, one of the most common and popular ways to spot clean your ties is by using a small cloth dabbed with club soda.  While we'd like to think that there's some overarching scientific reason as to why club soda seems to be such an effective cleaning agent, there really isn't any solid consensus even within the scientific community.  One possible explanation is that club soda, in comparison to plain water, is slightly acidic, which gives it similar stain-lifting properties associated with diluted vinegar.  Club soda is particularly useful in spot cleaning since it won't wreak any havoc on even the most delicate materials in small amounts, so using this method should be safe even on your silk ties.  For more stubborn stains, you might want to try using a small amount of detergent or a detergent pen instead.  No matter what you use to spot clean your ties, just be sure to avoid anything that contains bleach, as this can damage more sensitive materials and erode dyes.

            There are times when spot cleaning just won't do the job no matter how much elbow grease you throw into it.  When spot cleaning would either take too much time or not go deep enough into the fabric to get your ties looking pristine again, consider washing them by hand as an alternative.  There are, however, a few things to consider.

            Ties made from polyester, microfiber, cotton, or blended fabrics should hold up just fine if you choose to hand wash them.  Ties made from silk, on the other hand, could encounter some problems due to the fabric's delicate composition.  Silk, when it's completely submerged in water for extended periods of time, tends to lose its shape and even shrink, so hand washing is probably not the best method to use for this fabric.  If spot cleaning doesn't get all the stains out of your silk ties, consider dry cleaning them instead.

            For all other fabrics, hand washing your ties in a small amount of cold water with a sparing amount of regular detergent is your safest bet, as you'll reduce any chances that the fabric will warp or contract.  If you go the hand washing route, you'll only need to gently agitate them for a few minutes; there's no need to leave them soaking for lengthy periods of time.  Just as you would do in applying the spot cleaning method, avoid using any strong cleaning agents or bleach that might be too harsh on the colors and fabrics.

            While you can technically launder your ties in a washing machine, we would strongly recommend against doing so.  For one, it's largely unnecessary.  Unless you have dozens upon dozens of ties that need to be laundered at the same time, it doesn't make much sense to waste all that water for articles of clothing that only need to be cleaned on occasion.  Perhaps more importantly, washing machines aren't too nice to your delicate fabrics or anything that could become tangled around the center agitator.  Because ties are much longer than they are wide, they're much more prone to entanglements with the inner workings of your washing machine as well as other clothes that may be present in a given load.  If you insist on using this method, make sure to only do small loads at a time and always use the most delicate setting available.  Drying them in a dryer is also not recommended, but if you absolutely need to save time, make sure to use the no-heat setting and take them out after 15 or 20 minutes.  Going over them briefly with a steam iron afterwards should prevent any wrinkles from forming, but pay close attention to the labels on your ties.  If it recommends dry cleaning only or doesn't specify that you can launder and dry them in a machine, it's best not to take your chances or you'll end up having to buy more ties as replacements.

            There are some instances where it's best to leave things to the professionals, and this is where dry cleaning comes into play.  While taking your ties to the dry cleaners isn't always necessary, since spot cleaning and hand washing are usually enough to keep your ties in pristine shape, it is certainly easier and more precise.  If you've been regularly accustomed to formal wear to any degree, you've likely already found a dry cleaner that you can trust and that is consistent in terms of delivering quality service.  Because they've been dealing with formal wear on a professional basis, they're going to have more combined experience than an individual, in which case they'll know how to treat each of your ties properly without taking risks on any trial and error.

            Understand, however, that certain chemicals dry cleaners use might harm more delicate fabrics.  In any case they'll likely be aware of this, but it never hurts to ask them questions about gentler cleaning agents, if not for anything but your own peace of mind.

            Regardless of how you choose to clean your ties, remember that it's not something that has to be done with any sort of regularity.  Keeping an eye out for spots, stains, and wrinkles—and cleaning your ties as needed—should do the trick, so you can focus more on searching for the right ties and the right formal wear to ratchet up your personal style.  Whether you're looking to add more ties to your wardrobe or still in search of that perfect custom suit for the ones you already have, Enzo Custom has you covered.   

While taking your suits and dress shirts to the dry cleaners on a regular basis is a no-brainer, some components of formal wear often don't get the same treatment and attention to detail as the more obvious ones do.  Ask yourself, how often do you launder your ties or take them to the dry cleaners, if at all?  And if you don't, do you really need to start?

Laundering Your Ties: Is It Really Necessary?

Perhaps the most versatile component of any formal ensemble also happens to be one of the most ubiquitous, and we're of course referring to none other than the dress shirt. While neckties come as a close second in this regard due to their innate ability to enhance virtually any style or look, the dress shirt is the fundamental backbone that allows a suit or tuxedo to function both stylistically and practically. Dress shirts, whether they stand alone or pair with a tie, synergistically work with the suits that envelop them and go a long way in setting the tone of an overall outfit. Aside from the suit itself, a dress shirt will have the greatest amount of visible surface area, and this attribute in combination with the dress shirt's color and pattern will have a profound impact on whether one's personal style shines through or falls flat.

As we've established that dress shirts aren't exactly an optional component of formal wear, dress shirt maintenance is just as important as maintaining suits, trousers, jackets, tuxedos, and sport coats. And because they tend to be worn more often than suits, they can also experience more wear and tear than the outer layers of formal attire do as a result. Proper storage, handling, and laundering methods seem to be simple enough to understand, but to further complicate things, different styles of shirts require different methods of care. The material of a shirt is an important aspect to consider, but the color of a given shirt also plays a part in determining a dress shirt's longevity. Brightness unfortunately fades over time, but there are several ways to mitigate and slow down this inevitable phenomenon. In this piece, we'll go over the best ways to keep your brightest dress shirts from

fading, so you can focus more of your attention on style rather than worrying too much about replacing your shirts when they start to lose their luster.

When it comes to shirt fabric and the color of the dye used, the general rule of thumb is that longevity will be inversely proportional to the color saturation of the given fabric. Keep in mind, however, that this is not always so, especially when you consider how frequently a person might wear a shirt in a given month, as this can greatly affect the longevity of one's clothing. On the other hand, longevity is also closely tied to the actual material of the shirt, regardless of the color of the dye, so understand that there can be multiple factors at play in determining how long a shirt will typically last. Some materials also tend to hold their brightness much longer than others even if cotton, for example, doesn't shine quite as brightly as silk in the beginning. The common thread here is that there is always going to be a bit of a tradeoff in terms of balancing shirt brightness with longevity, and we'll get into why some materials tend to be more even-handed than others in this regard.

Across the board, cotton is by far the most common material used in dress shirt manufacture. It's durable, it's comfortable, and it does a very good job of keeping moisture away from the body, so it makes sense why cotton is and has remained such a popular material. As cotton fabric is derived from a natural source, it is unfortunately, over time, prone to degradation, in particular when cotton fibers are dyed to give us those stylish deep blue hues and bright pastel shades. If you hang onto any cotton dress shirt for long enough, you'll likely notice that its color isn't quite as bright as when you purchased it. Even when you take extra care to not

put too much unnecessary stress on your cotton shirts during the laundering process, those bright colors will tend to fade and lose their initial boldness.

Cotton blends tend to fare a little bit better in terms of retaining their bold colors compared to 100 percent cotton fabric, but the tradeoff is slightly less comfort. When we're talking about dress shirts, cotton blends normally interweave strands of synthetic fibers into the material, thereby boosting the shirt's durability and color retention for longer periods of time. As a result, the benefit of a blended material is that you don't have to take as much care when you launder it, but in order to keep those colors shining brightly for longer, you might want to anyway. Using lower water temperatures and separating colors between laundry cycles at a bare minimum is just one simple way to keep your dress shirts bright and bold for longer.

While silk isn't quite as popular as cotton due to its normally higher price tag, a silk dress shirt can make a bold statement when applied to formal settings, even without bright colors. Because silk is a delicate fabric, gentlemen who have silk dress shirts tend to either hand-wash or dry clean them, in which case both processes in and of themselves will prolong the life and color of the fabric. Silk shirts aren't so much prone to fading as they are to tearing or coming apart due to mishandling and improper maintenance, so careful storage and laundering techniques are a must.

Although we tend to discourage the use of synthetic fabrics in the context of formal wear, nylon and polyester dress shirts are certainly as common as cotton ones are, and have a few added bonuses in terms of color brightness and durability.

As synthetic fabrics are inherently more durable than their natural counterparts, the bright colors of a synthetic dress shirt won't fade very easily, even with heavy use and less delicate methods of care. If bold, bright colors are a must for a particular occasion, consider keeping a few synthetic or semi-synthetic dress shirts on hand for those less formal evenings out, and you'll have something that's interchangeable with more casual daytime affairs, as well.

--Colors, Patterns, and How To Handle Them--

It's quite difficult to pinpoint exactly when a white dress shirt no longer carries that same brightness as you did when you bought it, and some would even argue that white dress shirts are incapable of fading at all. Although fading is harder to spot, they would be wrong in assuming that a white shirt will stay that same shade forever. In some cases, a white dress shirt might even be more prone to discoloration, since it will stain more easily and is more susceptible to subtle changes in both indoor and outdoor air quality. But before you start running for the bleach and adding it into your washing machine (seriously, don't do this), you have to consider that most dress shirts will require a much greater attention to detail than, say, towels, bedding, or undershirts. In order to keep those white shirts shining brightly, you might be better off taking them to the dry cleaners. But if you insist on doing it yourself, always make sure to use non-chlorinated bleach. Too much chlorine can cause a yellowish hue to form on your white dress shirts, so to be on the safer side, it's best to use stain-lifers that use hydrogen peroxide instead. To continue erring on the side of caution, hand-washing your white shirts, at least during the bleaching process, will put less wear and tear on your shirt fabrics.

For your other patterns and colors, maintaining that initial pristine boldness is a little trickier. Before you do anything at all, make sure to check the labels on the shirts for proper care instructions, as some fabrics require a little more finesse than others. Separating light-colored dress shirts from dark ones is always a good habit to get into when you're doing your laundry, as this will prevent colors from bleeding into each other. But there are other things you can do besides the obvious.

If you choose to launder your clothes at home, make sure that when you wash your dress shirts with patterns and colors, do so on a more delicate setting on your washing machine. While the repeated jerky motions of a typical wash cycle are known for unraveling fabrics over time, this can also take a toll on the dyes used in the fabrics. While many swear by hand-washing their dress shirts, this is not always practical, so if you decide to throw them in the machine, try to use a setting that's gentler on your clothes, even if it may take more time to complete.

Another thing you can do is add fabric softener to a load of dress shirts. Fabric softener reduces friction while your clothes are being laundered, and will therefore reduce the amount of time it takes for the dyes in the fabric of your clothes to fade. This small trick works well for shirts with light and dark colors. Just make sure that you don't use too much, otherwise you might end up staining your clothes inadvertently.

It's no secret that heat can damage clothes, especially when you're dealing with any sort of dress shirts with sensitive fabrics. If you choose to dry your dress shirts in the dryer, always avoid using the highest heat setting, and you might even want to take them out before the cycle is done and air dry them for the remainder.

Just like hand-washing clothes, time doesn't always make this practical, so keeping the heat setting on your dryer to the lowest level you can get away with should prevent your dress shirts from fading prematurely.

Whether you're just starting out in the professional world or need to beef up your wardrobe for the New Year, Enzo Custom has you covered, head to toe. Don't hesitate to make an appointment with us at one of our showrooms, or if you feel more comfortable at home you can chat with one of our expert clothiers via videoconference.

Proper storage, handling, and laundering methods seem to be simple enough to understand, but to further complicate things, different styles of shirts require different methods of care. The material of a shirt is an important aspect to consider, but the color of a given shirt also plays a part in determining a dress shirt's longevity. Brightness unfortunately fades over time, but there are several ways to mitigate and slow down this inevitable phenomenon. In this piece, we'll go over the best ways to keep your brightest dress shirts from fading, so you can focus more of your attention on style rather than worrying too much about replacing your shirts when they start to lose their luster.

Keeping Your Brightest Dress Shirts From Fading

In many circles, it's generally expected that events requiring a suit also require a tie by default. In most cases, this assumption would be correct. It's hard to picture a well-tailored custom suit without the presence of a necktie that has the innate ability to complement and accentuate one's own personal style. But of course this isn't always so, as one of the first things to evolve in terms of fashion trends is the addition—or removal—of accessories before anyone dares to alter, say, the vents on a tuxedo or the general standards for what a shirt placket should look like; the latter tend to take more time to evolve.

Not long ago, it was commonly frowned upon to wear a suit at all without a tie, but this unspoken rule has softened over the years, with some suit manufacturers even going so far as to market their products without a tie anywhere to be seen in their billboards, banners, and magazine ads. This practice tends not to reflect a growing trend but rather a niche that has already been present for some time, with fluctuating rates of popularity.

In some situations, it's difficult to find the right balance between formal and casual attire without dressing up or dressing down too much. To find that balance, sometimes one of the easiest ways to achieve it is simply foregoing the necktie for an evening out. But when is it completely fine to do this, and when should you err on the side of caution and wear a tie anyway? The answer to this question isn't always cut and dry, but in this piece we'll set out to solve it in terms of when—and where—you can get away with leaving your tie at home.

Not all events we would consider formal require a tie; conversely, ties don't always have to be reserved for special occasions, either. Your own eyes and a few judgment calls on your part are normally enough to determine when a tie is or isn't warranted, but when in doubt it's still good to have a rough guideline in the back of your mind.

Dress shirts alone, for one, are fair game to wear without a tie. Since many occasions require a little bit of dressing up without the need for a jacket, you can rest assured that no one will fault you for neglecting a tie when dress shirts are worn in the context of more casual affairs. As dress shirts can be paired with just about anything, with the exception of maybe athletic shorts, wearing a nice shirt is a great simple way to accentuate your personal style without going overboard or feeling overdressed. Wearing a dress shirt with shorts when the weather calls for it, for example, would be an opportune time to leave your tie at home, since a tie will usually look out of place if it's worn with anything other than a pair of slacks.

The same rules apply for anything else not associated with formal wear, unless of course your goal is to make a bold fashion statement outside of the realm of normalcy. It goes without saying (but we'll say it anyway) that polo shirts, T-shirts, turtlenecks, jeans, shorts, or anything else you wouldn't normally wear with a tie should never be worn with one. A better, more practical example of this would be choosing to wear a sport coat with jeans. For casual outings this is perfectly fine to do, but you're better off doing it without a tie that could disrupt the balance of your casual ensemble. When it comes to wearing a sport coat with khakis or trousers, however, choosing to wear a tie or not is definitely one of those cases

where it comes down to a personal judgment call, based on the outfit itself as a whole and more importantly, the setting.

While the suit and tie at times seem to be inseparable entities, there are occasions where you can get away with rocking a suit without a tie so long as you're mindful of the particular type of suit you're wearing.

A suit without a tie tends to look best if it's a two-piece suit with a sleek, more minimalist appearance, as the absence of the tie won't throw off the symmetry of your outfit to any noticeable degree. You might, however, find yourself in trouble stylistically if you attempt the no-tie look in a three-piece or double-breasted suit, based merely on their heightened level of formality relative to the standard two-piece ensemble. Our collective wisdom tells us that while we've seen plenty of gentlemen bring out a spectacular sense of personal style in a two-piece suit by foregoing the necktie, the same cannot be said for attempts in three-piece or double-breasted ones. It's sort of like wearing a tuxedo to a black-tie event without a bow tie, which is also something that should be avoided in most, if not all situations.

Rigid office dress codes have been on the decline for some time now, and even with more businesses opening their doors again, the overall trend toward casual workplace environments seems unlikely to fade completely. Even in workplaces that have historically more formal requirements for attire, the rules are certainly bent more often now than they were a decade ago. In the realm of business casual, it's more or less understood that it's perfectly fine to leave your tie at home, as dress shirts and slacks, rather than full suits, seem to be the standard.

But if you want to stand out or give your personal style a bit of an edge, feel free to experiment with a two-piece suit or add a sport coat to your outfit without bringing a tie into the mix, as this will elevate your look and sense of professionalism without venturing into overdressed territory.

For events after work or on the weekends, neckties and bow ties aren't really encountered too often, save more formal outings such as weddings, awards ceremonies, banquets, or symphonies in large metropolitan areas. In many locales across the country, even restaurant dress codes have largely become a thing of the past, although this mindset isn't universal. While restaurant dress codes are more likely to be encountered in older cities like Chicago, New York, and New Orleans, a few establishments in other places still enforce rigid dress codes or suggest guidelines at the very least. Before you venture out for the evening and leave your tie at home, it's best to call the establishment ahead of time and find out how closely they enforce their dress code if there is one at all. It's unlikely that you'll be turned away for not wearing a tie so long as the rest of your outfit falls in line with their rules and you wear your suit with confidence, but even in this day and age it's not completely unheard of, albeit a rarity.

So you've decided to put on your new custom suit for the evening and leave your tie at home, but there's only one small problem. Your collar is floppy and your undershirt is visible from 30 yards away.

Wearing a necktie pretty much automatically solves the aforementioned issues, but you're certain that your suit looks much better without one. Fortunately

there are things you can do to mitigate these minor yet important discrepancies in style.

First and foremost, if you plan on wearing a dress shirt at all without a tie, it's vital that you use collar stays, especially if you're going to be wearing a suit with it. Collar stays will help keep your collar from forming that dreaded flop when a necktie or the top button isn’t holding it together. Metal ones work best, but plastic collar stays can work too, so long as they are thick enough to keep the collar elevated.

Since you wouldn't fasten the top button of a dress shirt when you're wearing a suit without a tie, it's also important to make sure that your undershirt remains hidden in order to bring out the best in your personal style.

To achieve this, consider wearing a v-neck in lieu of a standard crew-neck undershirt. A v-neck undershirt will in most cases stay out of sight and fall in line with the drop-down of your dress shirt. Alternatively, you could opt to not wear an undershirt at all, but we would recommend doing so only if your dress shirt is made from cotton or a cotton blend. Other materials, such as silk or synthetic polyester blends won't insulate or hide moisture as effectively, which could ruin any elevated sense of style you set out to master.

While wearing a suit without a tie seems easy enough, many gentlemen still struggle over whether to keep one or two buttons open on their dress shirts from the top down. Leaving one button open is definitely the more restrained look and the easier one to pull off, as your collar is less likely to droop down too much. If you

choose to leave two buttons open, just make sure that your shirt is ironed and starched to your liking, as these will help hold the shirt collar in place for longer.

One last thing to consider is the placement of the buttons on the jacket, as well as the number of buttons on them. Three-button jackets tend to have higher lapels, which suggests a higher level of formality that may not work too well without a tie. As many two-piece suits have only two buttons, the lapels will be set lower, which can offer a more casual and balanced look when you decide to wear a dress shirt without a tie. Plainly put, the shirt won't be so constricted by the higher lapel placement, allowing your bold personal style to shine through without looking awkward or forced.

While nothing quite matches the elegance and classic look of a suit and tie, there are occasions that do call for leaving your necktie at home. The key to successfully pulling off this look is personal judgment of your own fashion sense and, perhaps more importantly, confidence. When you're ready to make that leap, look no further than Enzo Custom, where our expert clothiers will answer all of your questions about custom fits and style considerations. Stop into one of our showrooms, or if you feel more comfortable at home don't hesitate to schedule an appointment via videoconference.

In some situations, it's difficult to find the right balance between formal and casual attire without dressing up or dressing down too much. To find that balance, sometimes one of the easiest ways to achieve it is simply foregoing the necktie for an evening out. But when is it completely fine to do this, and when should you err on the side of caution and wear a tie anyway?

Blog