Picture yourself getting ready for another day at the office or a formal night out.  Once you've put on your suit and fastened your tie to your liking, the last thing you probably do before you head out the door is check your pockets for your keys, wallet, glasses, cell phone, and maybe a few business cards.  For most of us, we do this automatically without even thinking about it.  In both formal and casual realms, pockets have been standard features on most articles of clothing, and as a result, even if we don't realize it, we tend to take them for granted.  The ease at which we carry our personal items with us today, however, was not always a given.

            Prior to the 17th century, pockets were rather rare, and personal items were instead carried attached to the belt or in a separate bag or purse that the person would take with them.  Of course this practice had its disadvantages, especially at the dawn of rapid industrialization and urban growth.  Without pockets, personal items were easy targets for thieves.  When sewn-in pockets became more commonplace, personal items were carried closer to the body, thereby reducing the chances of a person falling victim to theft.  Although thieves became more creative to counteract this new invention and pick-pocketing became somewhat of an art form, sewn-in pockets made it easier to walk through crowded streets without having to worry as much about personal items going missing.  Over time, pockets became even more inconspicuous as they were sewn into fabrics rather than attached to the outside of the garment.  

            In the last hundred years or so, pockets in men's formal wear have remained relatively standard and consistent.  Most suit jackets now come equipped with inside pockets that aren't visible from the outside of the fabric at all; while the main benefit of this is concealment, inside pockets have had another less obvious unintended consequence, as more of us are required to carry more stuff with us than we were 20 or 30 years ago.  Trying to cram keys, wallets, and cell phones into outside pockets would translate into a potential style faux pas, as doing so might make a suit look like it's bulging at the seams.  So until we figure out a way to carry everything with us in a single device or digital signal embedded into our watches, pockets are here to stay for the time being.  In this article we'll go over the different pocket types and how you can best utilize them to keep yourself looking sharp, even when you're required to carry so many things that you may find yourself feeling like a ticket scalper.

            By and large, the most common types of pockets found on suit jackets are flap pockets and patch pockets.  Although both types are similarly placed toward the bottom sides of the jacket, they differ in how they are sewn onto the garment.  Patch pockets are clearly visible from the outside of the jacket, as the pocket is fixed on the outer part of the jacket whereas flap pockets are sewn into the fabric, concealing the pocket's outline.  As the name clearly suggests, flap pockets are easily recognizable by the flap at the top of the pocket, originally intended to keep outside elements (dust, debris, etc.) from getting onto the pocket's contents.

            While both types serve the same functional purpose, flap pockets are the more formal of the two, and these days it's pretty rare to find patch pockets on a formal suit.  They're more appropriate for other types of less formal outerwear, such as sport coats and overcoats.  Flap pockets are beneficial when it comes to formal wear because they present less visual interruption of a suit's style and symmetry.  Although patch pockets are easier to stitch onto a jacket, their conspicuous outlines detract from their usefulness in the context of formal occasions.

            Jetted pockets, like flap pockets, are sewn into the jacket so the pocket outline cannot be seen from the outside.  However, the top of the pocket only contains a slit rather than a flap for a more streamlined, symmetrical appearance.  Keeping with the mantra of less is more, jetted pockets are considered to be more formal than flap pockets, and some gentlemen prefer to turn their existing flap pockets into jetted ones by folding the outside flap into the pocket for a sleeker look.  While many prefer the look of a suit that minimizes excess material attached to it, the only real downside of jetted pockets is that they tend to be a little smaller than their flapped counterparts.  So if you're the type of person who tends to carry around a lot of personal items with you, you might want to opt for flap pockets instead.

            Almost all varieties of formal jackets come with a breast pocket, normally placed on the left side next to the center of the jacket lapel.  At one point in time, the breast pocket served the functional purpose of keeping personal handkerchiefs separate from other items a person may have been carrying.  These days, the breast pocket is largely cosmetic, serving only as a way to carry another ornamental addition to a formal ensemble that also evolved from the handkerchief.  Pocket squares have largely abandoned their original intended purpose and instead come in an array of patterns and colors that add a tinge of charm to one's formal wear.  If you choose to don a pocket square, be sure to fold them carefully, as breast pockets tend to be narrow and can bulge if a pocket square is stuffed into it haphazardly.

            While breast pockets remain a staple of formal wear, the ticket pocket has largely disappeared.  Originally designed to hold train tickets when traveling, the ticket pocket was generally placed just above the right flap pocket of a person's jacket for easy access.  Although some jackets still retain this relic of a bygone era, they are most commonly seen on overcoats and jackets designed for more casual affairs.  The placement of the ticket pocket just above the right flap or jetted pocket can throw off a jacket's symmetry, thereby reducing its usefulness in formal settings.

            One would be hard-pressed to find any suits, blazers, or other articles of formal outerwear without inside pockets these days, and if anything they've become more common and more numerous.  From its obviously appropriate name, the inside pocket is by far the most inconspicuous pocket type, as neither the opening nor the pocket itself can be seen from the outside of the jacket.  The main benefit of having inside pockets is the heightened privacy and security of your personal items.  Inside pockets allow you to carry your personal items very close to your body and away from plain view, so you can put your mind at ease even if you have to walk through large crowds of people to catch your next train home.

            At the bare minimum, most suit jackets will have an inside pocket placed on the left side of the jacket right behind the breast pocket.  But today it's more common to have two inside pockets, with one on each side.  Some suit jackets may even have more.  As it is also the pocket type with the most versatility, the inside pocket can be used for just about anything, whether you need space for your cell phone, business cards, extra pens, notepads, credit cards, travel documents, or cash.  Bear in mind, however, that it's best not to overload them, as any bulges your personal items may cause will be visible from the outer fabric of the jacket and detract from a suit's aesthetic qualities.

            Just as it would be difficult to find any suit jackets without inside pockets, it would be nearly impossible to come across a pair of formal trousers that didn't have back pockets.  While some gentlemen insist on carrying their wallets in one of their back pockets due to habit or ease of access, we would caution against this practice.  For one, having to sit on your wallet is uncomfortable, especially for lengthy periods of time.  Also, carrying any valuables in your back pocket makes them more prone to theft, as a person will be less likely to notice something missing from there, especially in dense crowds.

            For essential personal items such as wallets or keys, you're better off carrying them in your front pockets.  As far as front pants pockets go, the slant pocket is by far the most common.  The pocket opening is set at an angle from the pant seams, making it easy to slide your hands right in so you can grab whatever you might need.

            Vertical pockets are functionally the same as slant pockets, with one subtle yet important distinction.  The openings of these pockets are parallel to the pant seams, which allow for a sleeker, more uniform look.  As a result, vertical pockets tend to be considered the more formal of the two.

            In the context of formal wear, coin pockets and frogmouth pockets are relatively nonexistent, but they're worth mentioning nonetheless.  The openings of frogmouth pockets are placed horizontally across the front of the pants, and this noticeable feature limits their use in formal settings.  In spite of their relative rarity, you'll be more likely to find frogmouth pockets (or variations thereof) on corduroy pants and jeans.  The same is true for the small coin pocket, usually visible above the opening of the right front pocket if it's present at all.  It's unlikely that you'll see coin pockets on formal trousers, but this useful addition is common on many brands of jeans as a way to keep your change from getting mixed up in your wallet or billfold.

            While there are many components and style considerations that go into creating custom suits, pockets will always remain one of the most vital and functional parts of them.  Here at Enzo Custom, our expert clothiers will always help you balance functionality with style.  Whether you need extra inside pockets or want to give yourself a little more room for a pocket square, we've got you covered.

In both formal and casual realms, pockets have been standard features on most articles of clothing, and as a result, even if we don't realize it, we tend to take them for granted.  The ease at which we carry our personal items with us today, however, was not always a given.

Suit Pockets: A Quick Guide and Keeping Your Formal Wear Functional

One of the greatest joys of owning a custom suit is being able to look your best every time you walk out your front door in the morning.  But of course, like any good thing, keeping a wardrobe full of custom suits comes with its own necessary burdens, as well.  By itself, each trip to the dry cleaners or steam iron replacement purchase doesn't seem like much, especially when you compare it to a typical monthly utility bill.  But if you were to add up those trips and purchases over time, whether you're looking at time or money spent, that numerical figure might surprise you.

            Figures will vary according to the source, but the typical household in the U.S. spends anywhere between $500 and $1500 on dry cleaning costs annually.  That's not exactly pocket change, even for those with comfortable incomes.  Thankfully, there are creative ways to reduce this figure without resorting to wearing the same suit over and over again until your employer tells you to go home and take a shower.

            While it might seem counterintuitive, owning multiple suits will save you laundry trips, and depending on the local dry cleaning business in your neighborhood, you might even get discounts for bringing in multiple items at a time.  Each suit will also wear out at a much slower rate than they would if you owned fewer suits, thereby extending each one's longevity.

            Hanging your suits up after each use will also reduce the number of times you'll have to iron, launder, or dry clean them.  As an added bonus, a little proper storage goes a long way.  Your suits are less likely to come into contact with any dust, dirt, or unwanted grime when they're safely hanging up in your closet with protective coverings rather than crumpled up next to your nightstand or strewn about all over your living room furnishings.

            That being said, even when you dot your Is and cross all of your Ts, there are things you might have to do that go beyond regular dry cleaning trips and keeping your suits safely on your closet rack, especially if you have non-human members of your household.  If you haven't gathered it already, yes, we're talking about your pets.

            While we're always ecstatic to greet them after a long day at the office, we might not be so thrilled all the time with how much pet hair and animal dander can get stuck to not only our clothes but also pretty much everything.  But these extra considerations are well worth the companionship, and in this article we'll iron out what you can do to keep your formal wear looking neat and sharp if you're one of the lucky ones who happen to live in a pet household.

            Here at Enzo Custom, we can never stress enough the importance of properly maintaining your wardrobe.  By taking care of your shirts, suits, jackets, trousers, and other articles of formal wear, everything in your closet will last longer and you'll spend less time going to the dry cleaners and your tailor.  But in pet households, maintenance shouldn't stop at your closet door.  Keeping up with maintenance and routine cleaning of your entire home will undoubtedly give you more peace of mind.

            We've all been guilty of it at some point or another.  It's very easy to use a long and intense workweek as an excuse to spend your weekend doing nothing but vegging out on the couch in front of the TV and sleeping in.  But rather than doing that all weekend, it would be wise to take at least some of that free time to dust off that vacuum cleaner in your utility closet and get reacquainted.   Even if you're a strictly shoes-off kind of person and you're very careful not to spill anything on your living room carpet, your dogs and cats will shed.  And they'll shed a lot, especially during the summer months.  Unfortunately for you, a majority of what they shed will end up on the carpet sooner or later, through no fault of their own.  And much of that can make its way onto your work clothes, as even the smallest of air currents can transport large amounts of pet hair great distances throughout your living space.  While vacuuming your floors weekly won't get rid of every single strand of pet hair in your home, it will reduce it to more manageable levels.

            Clean carpets and floors will translate into cleaner air that's free of dust and pet debris, along with anything they might track in from the outside when you take them for a walk or let them roam freely in your yard.

            While regular vacuuming can prevent pet hair from accumulating, proper maintenance doesn't just stop there.  Routine dusting of bookshelves, ceiling fan blades, cabinets, and counter spaces in conjunction with vacuuming will keep your home mostly free and clear of pet debris, thereby reducing the chances that your formal wear and suits will take on the same color as your pet's fur in a matter of days.  We totally understand that vacuuming and dusting are about as exhilarating as getting a root canal at the dentist, but these chores will go a long way in keeping your formal wear clean and sharp.  It would be frivolous and unnecessary to do these routine tasks every day, but doing them at least once a week—or once every two weeks at a bare minimum—should be sufficient enough.

            Bear in mind that if you're lucky enough not to have any carpet in your home at all, keeping your living space free and clear of pet fur will be easier, whether you're dealing with hardwood, tile, or linoleum.  Some people find sweeping and mopping hard surfaces in lieu of vacuuming to be comparatively effortless, but if you go this route, at least make sure you're keeping to a regular schedule you can follow.  As with vacuuming carpet, once every week or every two should do the trick.

            When it comes to your pets, your home furnishings can act like magnets for anything that they shed or track in from the outside.  This is especially true for things like couches, chairs, bedspreads, or anything else made from cloth fabric.  While it's tempting to immediately plop down on your sofa after the workday is over, you're better off taking the extra minute or two to hang up your formal wear before you do.  In addition to this easy step, just as you would pay closer attention to vacuuming your floors, you might also want to take a vacuum extender and go over the couch cushions from time to time.  Doing so will keep your suits and dress shirts from coming into contact with anything that your pet sheds or tracks in.

            The same general principle applies to your vehicle, as well.  If the interior of your vehicle has cloth seats, you may want to hang up your jacket on the way to the office and put it on only after you've arrived at your destination.  Over time, getting in and out of your car will transport any pet hair from your home into your seats and potentially onto your office attire.  In between full-service car washes where they may vacuum the interior of your vehicle, consider purchasing a pet roller that can pick up any excess pet hair from your seats, as using one is a very quick and effective way in reducing the amount of debris that ends up on your work clothes.  For practical purposes, it's best to keep one in your car and another one inside your home, as you can use them on just about anything, including your interior furnishings when you want to stay on top of routine maintenance between more thorough weekly cleaning sessions.

            One of the easiest ways to ensure that your suits remain free and clear of pet hair and other debris is to do the rest of your laundry more frequently than you would otherwise.  This includes bedding, towels, everyday informal wear, and linens.  As we've stressed before, pet hair can get into everything, and by maintaining a higher standard of cleanliness, you'll reduce the amount of stray floating debris that can be transferred to other materials very easily, even when you think you're being extra careful.

            Just as most people would agree that cleaning and vacuuming is not exactly a Saturday afternoon at an amusement park, neither is changing out your air conditioning/HVAC filters in your home.  But staying on top of this task will also reduce the amount of stray pet hair that's easily transferred from your furnishings to your wardrobe.  As different climates require different standards when it comes to changing your air conditioning filters, it's hard to pin down exactly how many times you should do this every year.  The general rule of thumb is at least once every three months, but if you live in a pet household, you should do this more frequently, perhaps one and a half times as often as you otherwise would.

            One last tip to keep in mind is for cat owners specifically.  Lots of people tend to have an out-of-sight-out-of-mind mentality for litter box placement, leading them to think that placing it in a closet is a great idea.  We would recommend against doing this and instead opt for an area of your home that's more open, such as a kitchen or laundry room so long as you have adequate space.  This will not only make cleaning easier but also prevent any sand from being anywhere near your formal wear.  Your cat will be happier too, as they won't feel so confined.

While caring for your wardrobe and your pets simultaneously is a challenge sometimes, it's certainly not impossible, and following these pointers will continue to keep you looking sharp and your pets happy and healthy.

While we're always ecstatic to greet them after a long day at the office, we might not be so thrilled all the time with how much pet hair and animal dander can get stuck to not only our clothes but also pretty much everything.  But these extra considerations are well worth the companionship, and in this article we'll iron out what you can do to keep your formal wear looking neat and sharp if you're one of the lucky ones who happen to live in a pet household.

Suit Care For Pet Households

When most people go out shopping for a new suit, the first thing that comes to mind is how it looks.  As far as office attire and evening formal wear is concerned, no one is going to seek out anything with comically oversized shoulder pads or plaid patches that appear to be the only things holding the entire suit together.  But just as style is a vital selling point, so are structural integrity and accurate measurements.  A custom suit is only as good as the customer and the tailor want it to be.

            Off-the-rack options abound at large department-store chains, and suits of this variety are very popular with gentlemen who are lucky enough to never run into too many issues when it comes to measurements and last-minute tailoring.  While these suits are designed to fit a broader spread of measurement deviations, it's almost never going to be quite the same as opting for the custom route.  At first glance it might appear that you're saving time and money by walking out the door with several suits in under an hour.  But how long will they really last?  How structurally sound are they?  And how easy is it to alter them later on?

            One of the biggest issues with off-the-rack suits is that you don't always know what you're getting.  While you might fit perfectly with one manufacturer or brand, another may have problems with the tightness of the chest or trousers that are either too long or too short if you go up or down a size.  It's true that a tailor can fix most of these issues, but a suit will always fit better when these kinks can be figured out before the suit is put together rather than afterwards.

            A custom tailor will know exactly how to balance a suit's structure with your desired style based on your measurements, as it is oftentimes better to work with a blank canvas than it is to fix one that's already been thrown together.  With our combined decades of experience, we've seen everything from bulky shoulder pads to flexible waistlines as attempts from manufacturers to offset subpar structure and dimension problems.  Custom tailors will never resort to cheap gimmicks or shortcuts, as they care more about your repeat business than they do volume.  Because of this careful attention to detail, custom suits tend to not only fit better but also last longer.

            One of the most important elements of a suit's structural integrity is thread count; it also matters with regard to style albeit to a lesser degree.  Unlike thread counts that apply to linens or bedding, more is not always better.  For example, a wool suit with a thread count of 250 might be soft and very fine to the touch, but it is also more vulnerable to premature wear and disintegration at a quicker pace.  Conversely, a similar wool suit with a thread count of 70 can look cheap and may have more fitting problems than one would expect.  Depending on the quality of the individual fiber strands, most tailors know to shoot for that sweet spot between 120 and 200 to find that perfect balance between fit and structural durability.

            A custom tailor will also know that an ideal thread count varies based on the suit material.  Linen suits, which are highly popular during the summer months because of their superior ability in keeping your body cool and comfortable, require a lower thread count than wool suits because the individual strands are larger.  Keep this in mind when you go shopping for your next custom suit, as the thread count number isn't ever going to be the only indicator of superior quality.

--The Dreaded Shoulder Pads, And Why Most Of Us Are Glad They're Gone--

            Well, they're not completely gone.  Every suit has some form of padding in the shoulder, but in the present moment they serve a more practical purpose than an aesthetic one.  This, of course, was not always so.

            It's hard to remember the 1980s and early 1990s without the shoulder pads' rise in popularity alongside gaudy McMansions, high interest rates, and excessive use of overdubs and synthesizers in music.  It seemed as if the more extravagant something appeared to be, the more appealing it was to have it.  The fashion of the time reflected this mindset, and prominent shoulder pads were perhaps most ubiquitous and noticeable in women's formal wear.  A side effect of this trend was that formal wear tended to have a better built-in durability thanks to all that extra padding.  

            Although posh and trendy at the time, in retrospect the conspicuous shoulder pads look rather dated, as fashion trends have slowly adopted a subtler, more minimalist aesthetic that emphasizes practicality over extravagance.  While they're still necessary when it comes to certain blazers, overcoats, and heavier jackets for both men and women, a little tends to go a long way when we're dealing with gentlemen's suits, tuxedos, and other articles of formal wear.  Too much padding in the shoulder will have the same effect as wearing a neon-green tuxedo to a black-tie dinner, and while there's nothing wrong with standing out, it's better to do it in a tasteful way.  Shoulder pads aside, there are more effective ways in maintaining that delicate balance between durability and personal style, depending on the type of suit that fits best for your individual tastes.

            Depending on your individual measurements, you might find that you look best in a particular suit style that falls more or less into three main categories.  In one of our previous articles, we highlighted the hallmarks of British, American, and Italian suit styles.  Just as each type can enhance your overall personal style, there are structural benefits to each one, too, as style can have a great deal of impact on a suit's structure and vice versa.

            The American-style suit tends to work best with gentlemen who have average or larger body types, as it is generally roomier than its British and Italian counterparts.  Even gentlemen of other body types will sometimes favor the American-style suit because of this added comfort and extra room.  While not as sharp-edged as other suit types from a style standpoint, American could be the way to go if you need something primarily to wear to the office on a regular basis.

            Structurally, American-style suits also tend to be quite resilient, as the more loose-fitting tapers of them won't feel the strain from fluctuations in body dimensions as easily.  Be aware, however, that a suit with more dimensional room can be more prone to snags over time.  Such a minor issue can be avoided with proper care and maintenance, so be sure to keep an eye out for loose threads, hang them up once you're done wearing them, and pay visits to your local dry cleaner every so often.  Whether American or other type, custom suits will encounter any problems far less frequently than off-the-rack options will.

              In contrast to its American counterpart, the Italian-style suit is recognizable by its prominent taper and contours to an individual's body dimensions.  What an Italian suit might lack in extra room makes up for it with a sharp, sleek appearance, ideal for both the workplace and formal nights out.  Italian-style suits work best in mild Mediterranean climates, where you won't have to worry as much about extra layers or bulky accessories.  In climates that lean toward the hotter side, you may want to opt for linen, as this will compensate for the tighter fit as far as comfort goes.

            Due to its more contoured fit, Italian-style suits might end up at your tailor more often than you'd like, especially if your body dimensions tend to fluctuate from time to time.  While this is perfectly normal, there is less wiggle room with Italian-style suits, as they tend to fit best on individuals with measurements on the slighter side. As a result, keeping them looking sharp requires a little more maintenance than American or British-style suits, so it's beneficial to find a tailor who can make minor adjustments and fixes as needed.

            British-style suits tend to represent the happy medium between the free-flowing American and contoured Italian styles, balancing both comfort and fashion sense without compromising either aspect too much.  In contrast to American-style suits, British ones are noticeably more tapered with a higher waistline, but still afford plenty of room for an additional layer when the weather gets cold.  The armholes also tend to be higher and there is less break in the pant legs, which can sometimes give the illusion of greater height and stature from afar.  The suit canvas is also generally more rigid, providing a sturdier form.

            While you won't encounter too much fuss with a British suit from a structural standpoint, bear in mind that you may need to pay attention more closely to the finer details of a British-style suit when you're making adjustments with your tailor.  With alterations, there is less room for error than there is with an American-style suit where you'll have more material to work with.

            No matter what you're looking for in your next custom suit, whether you put more stock in style, comfort, or structural durability, Enzo Custom has your bases covered.  Our expert clothiers will get you fitted appropriately for all your different—and sometimes seemingly conflicting—concerns as they relate to fashion sense as well as sound structure and comfort level.  Step into one of our showrooms today, or if you feel more comfortable at home you can meet with one of our experts via videoconference.

When most people go out shopping for a new suit, the first thing that comes to mind is how it looks.  But just as style is a vital selling point, so are structural integrity and accurate measurements.  A custom suit is only as good as the customer and the tailor want it to be.

Custom Suits: Balancing Structure With Style

A functional wardrobe is a small but significant investment in any gentleman's life, and what better way to maximize your closet's lifespan with a solid rotation of long-lasting, comfortable, and perfectly fitting formal wear. When properly maintained and cared for, both formal and casual clothing can last years, if not decades. But every now and again, especially with heavy use, suits can eventually lose their luster over time. Buttons fall off. Threads unravel. Zippers get stuck. Seams stretch. These are all parts of normal wear and tear, but there are sometimes ways to minimize these clothing pitfalls or at the very least, slow the progressive material deterioration down.

For starters, proper storage can go a long way in keeping your suits neat, pristine, functional, and stylish. Hanging them up after each use, getting them properly cleaned every so often, and keeping protective barriers around them can make the difference between a few years and a few career moves. Staying on top of loose buttons and threads also helps, so it's always a good idea to familiarize yourself with a basic rudimentary understanding of sewing and stitching, as this can save you money over time when you can take care of small repairs and fixes without having to shell money out to a tailor for every little issue.

But all material goods have a finite lifespan, some longer than others. Whether it's the car you drive, your personal computer, or your custom suit that you purchased long ago, there comes a point at which keeping something in operational condition becomes more expensive and time-consuming than simply buying a new

one. In the realm of formal wear, if you're constantly making fixes and adjustments to your suits and tuxedos, it's probably time to consider shopping around for a replacement or two.

--Keeping Up With Minor Repairs or Getting That New Suit?--

Although it may seem inconsequential at first glance, keeping your wardrobe up to snuff involves a bit of cost-benefit analysis just like anything else. And of course, some problems are much easier to remedy than others.

One of the most common problems any gentleman will encounter with formal wear is the integrity of the suit buttons. In some cases it's a matter of material integrity; buying a discounted suit off the rack at a big-box department store will probably yield more button problems over time than a suit made by a custom tailor. This is simply a function of cost, as the big-box guys tend to use the least amount of thread possible to keep the buttons secure on the jacket. Over time, the constant buttoning and unbuttoning will slowly force the button threads to loosen, making it more likely for the buttons to fall off and therefore reduce the functionality of your suit. Fortunately, tightening and reattaching suit buttons are relatively easy fixes that hardly require any time at all. Even if you have no idea how to sew threads together, you can always take your suit to a tailor, where they can attach the buttons with extra thread to minimize the chance they'll come loose again.

Stray threads are yet another common problem. We've all been guilty of it at one point or another; a loose thread can easily be twisted, pulled off, and stowed away in your pocket to keep your outfit looking brand new. While doing this once

or twice may not cause any immediate problems, the repeated breaking of loose threads will ultimately cause more loose threads and in severe cases, ruin the structural integrity of the jacket, which can lead to fraying and unraveling over time. It's just that you may not notice the damage you're doing at first.

A better way to fix loose threads is to thread your sewing needle (if you have one) and pull it through the snag, creating a loop as you pull the thread closer in. Then you can use the end to tie a small knot and close the loop, cutting off the small amount of excess thread still hanging down. This greatly reduces the chance that your suit will unravel at some point and also prevents the same snag from occurring in the future.

While it's much less common for zippers on suit trousers to break than it is for the same thing to occur when you're dealing with cheaply made duvet covers or pillow cases, it occasionally does happen. Whether it's the slider not functioning properly or the teeth not fully closing, this can be a cause of concern that ranges from the annoying to the embarrassing. Quick home remedies abound; you can use graphite pencils or lip balm to smooth out the teeth and opt for a small key ring in place of the zipper pull when you're in a bind. But when you're dealing with formal wear, these solutions aren't great from a style standpoint. Most custom tailors can replace the zipper for a nominal fee, and most estimates are well below the $20 range. If any problems still persist afterwards, it may not be the zipper itself but rather the material around it. If you start to notice more loose threads and snags, it might be time to consider getting a new pair of suit pants that don't have as many issues with quality control, as this can save you time and money in the long run.

Trouser cuffs serve both a functional and stylistic purpose. Their presence can minimize the likelihood of fraying at the bottom of your suit pants and they also can bring down the formality level of an outfit when the occasion calls for it. Cuffs, however, are not immune to fraying problems. If you walk to work or travel frequently, you'll probably notice loose threads down at the base of your pants more often than you would if your occupation requires a more stationary position the majority of the time. When this happens, you can fix these types of cuff issues as you would any other loose thread or snag problem on other parts of your suit, so long as you catch these problems before they snowball. If you continue to notice fraying at the bottom of your pants even after constant fixes and additional threading, there may be something wrong with your trousers as it relates to structural integrity. Depending on how your suit was made, the thread count might be inappropriate for the material used in its manufacture. When shopping for a new suit, it's important to pay attention to not only thread count but also the material used. If these components are balanced properly, you're less likely to encounter any fraying issues that have the potential to ruin your wardrobe when you can't keep them under control.

Thankfully, lapels don't usually encounter the same problems that cuffs, buttons, and zippers do, as there is less friction to worry about. If you notice any problems with your lapels at all, it's likely due to a fit and measurement problem. With a properly tailored suit, your lapels should lay flat across your chest. If you notice that they look asymmetrical or jut out, even to the slightest degree, the chest measurements of the suit are probably too tight. Unfortunately this is not an easy

fix, and your best option if you encounter this problem is to consider purchasing a new suit altogether. When you do, just make sure that you get properly fitted with a reputable tailor to avoid this issue in the future. The same goes for problems with bumps in the suit shoulder or too much space behind the back collar. Proper measurements for your next suit will ensure that these issues do not arise.

Just as proper measurements are vital to the functionality of any suit, the material you select can have a huge impact on your suit's longevity. Wool continues to be the gold standard for gentlemen's formal wear across the globe because of its superior wicking properties along with its durable nature, so long as it is cared for and maintained properly. For those seeking additional durability along with a better price point, wool/cotton blends are another great fabric choice. Linen is also popular, especially in the summer due to its lightweight nature and ability to keep the body cooler than other heavier materials. As a suit material, linen sports a robust durability as well due to the thicker nature of each strand of fabric, which allows linen suits to get away with a lower thread count than its wool and blended counterparts.

As we have stressed before, thread count is an important factor to consider when you're weighing in on a suit's potential longevity. If you're shopping around for a new suit and you love the touch and feel of wool, it's best to stick to a thread count anywhere between 100 and 170, as this balances fineness with durability. Be aware that opting for a thread count over 200 on wool suits isn't always advisable; it may be fine to the touch, but it is more likely to encounter snags, loose threads, and durability issues more quickly. The same rules apply to wool/cotton blends. Linen thread counts tend to be lower, even going as low as 80, but the strength of the individual strands allows for it.

While issues with stray threads, loose buttons, and even stuck zippers are relatively easy to fix, the biggest problems in the realm of formal wear are caused by improper measurements, which is why it is so important to seek out reputable custom tailors when you decide it's time for an upgrade. Here at Enzo Custom, we'll make sure that your suit measurements are precise to your body dimensions so you'll get the most out of your custom suit in terms of style, longevity, and durability. Stop into one of our showrooms today, or if you feel more comfortable at home feel free to speak with one of our expert clothiers via videoconference.

When properly maintained and cared for, both formal and casual clothing can last years, if not decades. But every now and again, especially with heavy use, suits can eventually lose their luster over time.

Loose Buttons, Stray Threads, and Frayed Zippers, Or, When It's Time To Buy A New Suit

We've all been in a bit of a bind before when it comes to formal events. Maybe your best friend's wedding is only just around the corner, or you're scheduled to speak at a company event that's only two days away. As you open up your closet to put on your suit that's been hanging up all the way in the back ever since you moved in, you come to realize that you can't even zip up your trousers without lying down on your bed as if you were trying to squeeze into a tight pair of jeans you'd wear out to a night at the club. At this point, you have two options. You can either tough it out in the suit you have at your disposal, sacrificing comfort in the process. Or you can dart out to a big-box suit retailer and hope and pray that one of the suits off the rack will be close enough to your measurements and desired comfort level.

As it goes with anything, prevention is always better than treating the problem after it occurs. When people need a suit at the last minute, their first inclination is going to be rushing out to a department store, where measurements—if the salespeople do any at all—will be quick and the suits on the rack are designed to fit the approximate average of a person's dimensions within a size range, rather than individually tailored. While department stores and big-box retailers are beneficial in a pinch when you're strapped for time and have no other options, in the future your style choices will be limited if you continue to shop for suits this way. As we are all creatures of habit, it's tempting to put off our clothes shopping until we actually have to do it, but for wardrobe functionality and versatility, this is almost never the best way to go about things.

While it might be too late to get fitted for a custom suit if your grand evening event is tomorrow, you can better plan ahead in the future. By going with a custom tailor, perhaps a month in advance for the sake of example, you'll have more time to select your fabric, your color, the style of your suit, and get the best measurements possible for your body type and comfort level.

Here at Enzo Custom, we offer 1000 different suit fabrics just to get you started, whether you're looking for a budget-friendly Super 130s Wool Navy Solid or a more top-of-the-line 100 percent Cashmere grey. National chains and big-box department stores normally don't have anywhere near that number of fabrics at any given time when you're browsing their racks. When you factor in lapel styles, button closures, pockets, waistbands, cuffs, vents, your personal measurements, and other style considerations that we offer, the potential number of combinations easily exceeds the quadrillion mark, making your choices infinite for all practical purposes. When you go custom, you no longer need to limit yourself to what you might be able to scrounge up at the end of the day on your typical run-of-the-mill department store suit rack.

So before you rush out to one of the big-box guys, consider the many benefits of Enzo Custom that go beyond just the stratospheric number of style combinations for your newest addition to your wardrobe.

While some department store chains may offer some form of limited tailoring and alteration, there are times when they might be understaffed and forced to burden their customers with long wait times between appointments, especially in

the months leading into summer where volume is high and weddings and proms abound. It is true that going to a custom tailor may take some additional effort on your part in terms of scheduling things in advance, but the extra planning is certainly worth the service you'll be getting in return.

Consider how a department store takes your measurements whenever you're looking to buy a new suit. Generally, they are done while you're wearing the suit you plan to purchase, which means those measurements will only go so far. The tailors in the big-box stores are pretty much limited to minor alterations on a premade suit that will never be 100 percent precise to your dimensions. When you go with a custom tailor, your measurements are taken before they even weave the suit's component parts together, thereby increasing accuracy and precision when it comes to individual fit. Only after the suit is made do they take your measurements again to adjust for minor deviations from your body dimensions if necessary. With such an extra step in place, you can rest assured that you won't get a better fit anywhere else, so long as the tailor is experienced and reputable.

Just as expert tailors are always expected to know their craft, Enzo Custom's clothiers have combined experience spanning decades. With this knowledge comes the ability to apply it to a breadth of situations—or wisdom as it is sometimes referred—since our clothiers have likely seen it all. This cumulative wisdom goes beyond merely ensuring accurate and precise measurements. If you're wondering whether or not to go with a certain fabric, what type of shoes would fit best with

your personal style, or how you should fold your pocket square in order to look your very best, they'll have an answer for you.

Most importantly, our clothiers will make sure that the process of buying a suit is as painless as possible. One of the many drawbacks of going to some of the bigger chains and department stores is the crowds of people, not to mention the unnecessary wait times to get fitted. At Enzo Custom, your appointments with our clothiers will always be conducted on an individual basis and scheduled in advance so you can have their full attention when you show up to get fitted. Just as it is the mantra of many custom tailors worldwide, it is better to do a job the right way rather than the quickest way. With the ability to focus on only one client at a time, your measurements and style considerations can be assessed with unmatched accuracy, and you will never feel like you're being shuttled out the door to make room for more customers.

Another benefit to our custom approach is that we'll keep your measurements on file to expedite the process the next time you want to come in and add another suit to your wardrobe. Unless your body dimensions have changed measurably, you might only have to come in if you need some last-minute alterations to the finished product.

--Get Your Suits On Your Time, Not Someone Else's--

With Enzo Custom, you'll be able to buy suits designed specifically for you, on your time and your time only. Your initial appointment with us doesn't even require you to be present at one of our showrooms.

While we always stress that you'll never get a better measurement than you will in person, current circumstances and personal preferences don't always line up with ideal conditions. In lieu of in-person appointments, you may opt to speak with one of our clothiers via videoconference from the privacy of your own home. If you choose to go this convenient and alternative route, you can get measured locally and forward those measurements to us so we can get you into the suit you've always wanted as soon as possible.

Whether you're in a huge rush or have plenty of time to wait, our appointment slots can accommodate even the busiest of schedules. As we mentioned before, however, it's best not to schedule anything too close to the last minute, as we want your buying experience to be a memorable one in a good way. By scheduling your appointment in advance, you'll have ample time to browse through the 1000 fabrics we have to offer as well as narrow down the style of your new suit, down to every last stitch and button.

The Enzo Custom experience wouldn't be complete without those wonderful things that really tie a suit together. When applied correctly, your ties, cufflinks, belts, overcoats, and pocket squares can really do wonders for complementing your formal personal style. Just as you can customize your suits to your personal liking, you can do the same with our overcoats, waistcoats, shirts, trousers and standalone jackets such as sport coats and blazers to give you a truly full custom experience.

Although formal wear isn't going away anytime soon, relaxed office dress codes and wider acceptance of casual wear for an increasing number of engagements has made it more difficult to find a good tailor in a lot of places. With Enzo Custom, you'll never have to look any further. As we offer 1000 fabrics to choose from, you will have no trouble at all finding one that fits not only your style preferences but also your practical concerns. You won't have to spend an arm and a leg to get just the right look, either. Whether obtaining the finest of fabrics or sticking to budgetary concerns is your top priority, we can offer you the best of both, and everything in between. If you're ready to make that leap into a new custom suit and experience custom tailoring as it should be, don't hesitate to step into one of our showrooms, where one of our expert clothiers will get you fitted. If you feel more comfortable at home, feel free to set up an online appointment where we'll take your measurements at the click of a button. It really is that easy.

1000 Fabrics And Counting: Why Custom Makes All The Difference

It's no surprise that the standard two-piece suit has become the dominant fashion trend in most formal settings around the world, especially as formal wear has lost a little bit of its former midcentury glory and prestige.  With office dress codes skewing more casual—even more so as of late—and white-tie events going all but extinct, formal wear has become more minimalist, uniform, and simplified.  Of course this isn't necessarily a bad thing; getting ready for special outings takes much less time than it used to and gentlemen are no longer burdened with having to keep an entire closet exclusively dedicated to formal wear.  The modern conveniences of no longer having to put on a tuxedo to board a cruise ship or eat at fancy restaurants is certainly something to celebrate rather than deride.  But sometimes we all long for that former charm, largely missing from the modern-day cocktail party, board meeting, and evening soirée.  Save designated black-tie events, weddings, and a select few awards ceremonies, the tuxedo can sometimes be too much, drawing attention to your style preferences rather than your charming personality.  But the three-piece suit is an alternative means to meet that former formal glory halfway.

            The origins of the three-piece suit can be traced back to the mid 17th Century, when King Charles II of Britain encouraged the wearing of vests (or waistcoats as they are also known) as a way to pump up the wool trade.  In the 19th Century, Beau Brummell, the man largely responsible for the toning-down of formal wear that ultimately replaced elaborate and complicated garments, was also instrumental in turning the waistcoat into standard bespoke flair.

            Although the three-piece suit has declined in popularity since its peak in the middle of the 20th Century, it is still able to hold a niche interest; as formal events are rarer overall, some gentlemen are more inclined to deck themselves out whenever the opportunity arises, and the three-piece suit is a simple yet elegant way to give one's style that extra edge it might be missing.

            In this article, we'll give you all the ins and outs of the three-piece suit, including special considerations, what you'll need with it, how to wear it, and how to use it to your advantage by illuminating your personal style.  After all, the three-piece suit is more than just a regular suit with an added vest.

            While all formal suits come equipped with jackets and trousers, the addition of the waistcoat is the main component that differentiates the three-piece suit from its more common two-piece counterpart.  Simply by virtue of this extra layer, three-piece suits have the added benefit of providing more insulation to your person during the colder months out of the year, allowing you to think twice about having to lug around a heavy overcoat just to stay comfortable.  Three-piece suits also tend to be made from heavier wool than two-piece ones; while this isn't standard across the board, it's common enough to consider adding a three-piece suit to your wardrobe if you happen to live in more frigid climates.

            Other than staying comfortable in the cold, three-piece suits will enhance your overall style with very minimal effort.  As the old adage goes, a classic never dies, and the three-piece suit is more than capable of resurrecting those past sensibilities of class and sophistication that are sometimes absent in more modern, dressed down apparel selections.  When the occasion calls for it, don't be shy about rocking a three-piece suit, as you'll certainly appear more confident and collected as far as your own personal style goes.

            A beneficial unintended consequence of owning a selection of three-piece suits is the effortless increase in wardrobe permutations by default at your disposal.  For those more casual occasions on warmer days where a full suit is not required, you'll have a plethora of vests to choose from when all you need is something on the business-casual side of things.  Even when a particular outing still calls for a blazer, you can, in a pinch, get away with using one of your suit jackets as a sport coat without raising any eyebrows.  While you'll still look your best in a full three-piece suit, this added flexibility can come in handy when you need formal wear or some combination thereof at short notice.

            Before we get into some of the finer points of style surrounding the three-piece suit, we wouldn't be completely comprehensive about them if we didn't cover some of the minor drawbacks that can arise with them.

            Due to the heavier nature of the material and the added vest layer that are both beneficial in the winter, three-piece suits aren't always the best pieces of formal wear to strut around town during the summer.  For events outside, a three-piece suit can be especially troubling when your goal is to stay cool and comfortable.  The waistcoat sometimes has a tendency to make the rest of your outfit bunch up more easily, but this can be mitigated with proper measurements and fitting.

            For some outings and events, a three-piece suit might just be a bit too much, even when you're trying to be subtle about your superiority in style.  As events during the day tend to be less formal than those held at night, you might want to opt for a more modern two-piece suit when you're required to be formal during daylight hours and save the three-piece suit for evening affairs.

            Just as the waistcoat once served a more practical purpose for the tuxedo, the same can be said for three-piece suits.  Although vests today are more of a fashion statement than anything else, they were once a necessity to conceal suspenders that at one time were considered to be an undergarment.  As a result, the three-piece isn't very suited to accommodate belts at all.  This pairing would not only look awkward but also cause problems with bunching up, fit, and comfort.  If your measurements are just right, then you don't really need any extra pant support.  But if you want to be on the safe side, opt for suspenders in lieu of a belt.  They will keep your pants from sagging down and as a result, your dress shirt won't protrude through the lower part of your waistcoat.  The last thing you want is to grapple with a belt buckle snagging on your vest when you stand up or sit down, and there's a reason why most pants made for three-piece suits don't have any belt loops at all.  This isn't so much of a drawback as it is a practical consideration, so logic would follow that if you don't see belt loops, don't even think about using one.

            Just as the same general rule applies to two-piece suits, the jacket, trousers, and vest of a three-piece suit are all designed to match each other.  In the context of formal occasions, it's best not to deviate from this rule, even if you might be tempted to mix and match your vests and your jackets.  The latter should only be reserved for casual affairs or when you're not required to wear a jacket.  A mismatched vest or any other suit component will stick out like a sore thumb otherwise, and you're better off complementing your personal style rather than detracting from it.

            Another important yet often overlooked style concern is how to button your waistcoat.  As the rule goes for suit jackets and tuxedos, the bottom button of your vest should always be left unbuttoned.  While this is mainly a point of style that has survived for decades if not longer, leaving the last button open will also allow for more flexibility and comfort when you stand up or sit down.  Keep in mind, however, that the waistcoat should cover the bottom part of your shirt to ensure aesthetic uniformity of the suit fabric from your feet all the way up to your shoulders.  Any part of your shirt that protrudes between the waistline and the bottom of your vest will tarnish any semblance of style sophistication you'd want to achieve with a three-piece suit.

            Per the aforementioned style consideration, proper measurements when it comes to three-piece suits are especially important.  Since belts are out of the question as we mentioned previously, a proper fit will ensure that your suit stays presentable and comfortable throughout its lifespan.  If you need extra support to keep your trousers sitting at the natural waistline, opt for suspenders that button into the inside of the pants; never use the clip-on variety, and that goes for other types of formal wear, as well.

            Given the heavier nature of the material associated with three-piece suits and the added vest layer, we would suggest that you wear a shirt that's made from a lighter material such as silk, linen, light wool, or blended cotton.  Any flannels or heavier wools are bound to cause discomfort, especially in warmer climates.

            When you sit down, you should make it a habit of unbuttoning your suit jacket but not the waistcoat.  This will give you more wiggle room at the dinner table and will also prevent the suit from bunching up.  The same etiquette goes for tuxedos and standard two-piece suits as well.

            As with all suits, it's best not to wear a shirt that's the same color as your vest, jacket, and trousers.  While any suit should be uniform in its fabric all the way through, your shirt should add a slight amount of softness and contrast to your outfit.  The only exception to this rule might be wearing black on black (i.e. black suit, black vest, black shirt, black tie, etc.), but this look is often too monochromatic and too severe for many people to pull off well.  If you choose to go that route, we'd suggest that you do it sparingly.

            One final style consideration to keep in mind is your socks.  Because the waistline is generally higher with a three-piece suit than it is with its two-piece counterparts, you especially need to make sure that your socks are high enough to accommodate cuffs that are slightly higher as well, in particular when you are sitting down. 

            If you're ready to make the leap toward adding a three-piece custom suit to your wardrobe, feel free to stop into an Enzo Custom showroom where an expert clothier will take your measurements and answer all your questions.  If you feel more comfortable at home, you can also schedule an appointment with us via videoconference.

It's no surprise that the standard two-piece suit has become the dominant fashion trend in most formal settings around the world, especially as formal wear has lost a little bit of its former midcentury glory and prestige.  With office dress codes skewing more casual—even more so as of late—and white-tie events going all but extinct, formal wear has become more minimalist, uniform, and simplified.  But the three-piece suit is an alternative means to meet that former formal glory halfway.

A Comprehensive Guide To Three-Piece Suits

Nothing really comes close to the ease at which a custom suit fits around the contours of the body. When you go custom, every single stitch of your suit's fabric is put together with your comfort and style exclusively in mind. Longtime customers swear by it, and recent converts more often than not never look back at off-the-rack options available in big-box department stores. With a suit that's made just for you, gone are the days where you have to worry about your collars bunching up or trousers that are either too tight or too baggy.

But even suits made with the perfect fit in mind are not immune from the one universal thing that keeps tailors around the globe in business. And that thing would be us, or that annoying tendency for everyone's dimensions and body shape to change over periods of time. Whether you overindulged during Thanksgiving and Christmas or started that fad diet that's really paying off, these fluctuations happen to all of us, and often at very inconvenient times. It's always disappointing when you have a wedding coming up and your tuxedo no longer is as snug as it used to be, or your best suit barely accommodates a tucked-in dress shirt for an important cocktail party just around the corner. So what can we do about these inconveniences, other than have a wardrobe the size of an entire department store rack?

Going to a tailor or even buying a new suit are the likely options that first come to mind; perhaps even a new belt or shedding a layer or two might seem like a quick fix in a pinch. We'll certainly touch on these remedies, but there might be a better way to stay one step ahead of the body's tendency to be a stubborn creature

of habit. Purchasing a handful of suits ahead of time within your expected size ranges might just allow you to account for all those dimensional fluctuations in the future, but as you already know this isn't the only way to deal with such a problem that we've all encountered at some point or another. In this piece, we'll give you options for what to do whether you gain some or lose some over the course of a year.

Whether your suit feels like it's bursting at the seams or floating around you like parachute pants from the '90s, fitting problems are normally handled first and foremost by a custom tailor. You take your suit in, the tailor takes your measurements, they make the necessary adjustments, and you're on your merry way. Going to a tailor is also relatively inexpensive, as it doesn't require you to purchase a new suit to get that perfect fit you're looking for. In some cases, if you purchased your suit from the same tailor, minor adjustments and alterations are complimentary, which further reduces the cost of either too much exercise or too many Christmas parties.

If you need to add or take away a few inches from your waist or add a little more room in your shoulders, the benefits of going to a tailor outweigh any other remedies to potential fitting problems. Although it's easier to take away rather than add a few inches to your suit, a tailor shouldn't encounter anything too insurmountable so long as the adjustments and alterations you need are slight. The turnaround time also tends to be very quick, and you might even be able to pick up

your altered suit on the same day you drop it off, depending on how busy your tailor is at any given time.

The only drawback you might encounter when going to a tailor to adjust your suit measurements is that the changes you require might be impossible due to the physical limitations of your suit's material. In circumstances where the measurements have to be reduced or expanded drastically, it may be more cost-effective to just purchase a new suit rather than pay a tailor to reconstruct a new one out of the suit that you do have.

In most cases, however, the consensus seems to be that going to a tailor to make adjustments is the best option for alterations within a few inches. By doing so when necessary, you will extend the longevity of your suit while you simultaneously save money.

Of course, not all measurement adjustments can be handled by a tailor, and herein lies the sometimes dreaded option of having to buy a brand new suit just so you can get that perfect comfort level you so desire. Whether you lost a ton of weight or decided to bulk up for a body-building competition, buying a new suit—rather than trying to tailor an existing one—might be the better course of action in these scenarios. The process of buying a new suit nowadays is pretty straightforward, and you may not even need to show up to a physical location for the manufacturers and tailors to take your initial measurements.

Even if you could get away with altering a suit you already own, buying a new one has several benefits. When a tailor makes a new suit for you, in theory it will fit

more precisely to your body type as it is right now, without the need to alter, widen, or strip away any suit material at an additional appointment, which will save you time in the process. Buying a new suit will also allow you to upgrade any minor style considerations if you so choose. Maybe you'd rather have peak lapels or an American-style suit rather than a British or Italian one, and vice versa.

The only drawbacks to buying a new suit, of course, are the cost and the possibility that your new suit may not fit you as well in the future, regardless of whether you bulk up or slim down. But that's a risk we all take whenever we buy a suit at any given point in time.

Overall, the consensus when it comes to buying a new suit is that it's a great option for those who want to expand the variety of their wardrobe as well as save time.

We've all been in a bit of a bind as far as formal events go. Your best friend is getting married, and after months of anticipation you realize that your suit is either a little too tight or so loose that your belt won't even effectively hold your pants up, the day before the ceremony. If you didn't plan ahead, there isn't much you can do to remedy a situation like this one, but in some cases, adding or taking away layers to your outfit can be just enough to alleviate any awkward fitting or discomfort.

If your suit is too constricting, consider foregoing an undershirt and do your best to wear a dress shirt that is made from thinner fabrics. A quarter- or half-inch may not seem like much, but that small amount of extra room can make a tighter-

fitting suit a little less uncomfortable, and comfort is important if you have to be wearing one for several hours.

Conversely, if your suit is suddenly too loose after swearing off bread and bacon, you might be better off wearing a thicker undershirt with your attire and a dress shirt that's made from wool or cotton rather than linen or silk.

Adding or subtracting layers to your outfit can be beneficial in that doing so doesn't cost anything at all and also doesn't consume any additional time. However, the drawbacks outweigh the positives in this case. Layering, or stripping them away, tends to work best only when your measurements have changed ever so slightly. Bear in mind that this method is not meant to be a long-term solution, and it should only be used as a temporary fix in last-minute emergency situations. You're better off buying a new suit or going to a tailor, but if those options are not immediately available to you, using layers to adjust the fit slightly is worth at least a try.

In order to give yourself a wider pool of options to choose from when your measurements inevitably fluctuate over time, consider keeping more than just one or two suits in your wardrobe. If your measurements don't change too drastically, this method might be able to eliminate the need to go to a tailor altogether, as multiple suits tend to fit differently from each other by slight degrees. We would caution, however, not to deviate too much from your standard measurements, as buying suits that are too big or too small would be largely pointless; you want suits

that fit you as closely as possible at this moment, not necessarily ones that may or may not fit years or even decades later.

In addition to going up or down a size, having multiple suits at your disposal has the benefit of increasing variety and versatility in your formal attire, and you'll never be short on style no matter what type of event you have to attend, whether you're headed to a black-tie wedding or getting ready for another routine day at the office. All in all, the pros of owning multiple suits go far beyond just the ability to easily go between sizes when your measurements fluctuate.

As it is with buying a new suit, buying multiple suits comes with the potential drawback of being cost-prohibitive. On average, a single person tends to own about a half-dozen suits, so there's no reason to go overboard and buy 50 or 100, unless of course cost and storage are not issues and you want as many style and size permutations as possible. For all practical purposes, however, owning anywhere between 5-10 suits is usually sufficient to fulfill all of your style and fitting needs.

Although buying multiple suits offers a solution to potential measurement fluctuations down the road, at the end of the day, the most effective and balanced way to deal with fitting problems is to do what people have been doing for centuries, and that's simply going to your custom tailor. As most people's measurements only fluctuate slightly over time, in most cases a tailor will be able to handle any adjustments without a problem.

If you've been eyeing a custom suit for some time and want to ensure that your measurements give you an ideal balance between comfort and style, stop into an Enzo Custom showroom or make an online appointment with us, where one of

our expert clothiers will take care of everything you need when it comes to formal wear and achieving that perfect fit

Even suits made with the perfect fit in mind are not immune from the one universal thing that keeps tailors around the globe in business. And that thing would be us, or that annoying tendency for everyone's dimensions and body shape to change over periods of time. It's always disappointing when you have a wedding coming up and your tuxedo no longer is as snug as it used to be, or your best suit barely accommodates a tucked-in dress shirt for an important cocktail party just around the corner. So what can we do about these inconveniences, other than have a wardrobe the size of an entire department store rack?

What's A Gentleman To Do When His Suit No Longer Fits?

The recent explosion of remote work, a greater emphasis on budgetary concerns, and warmer weather being just around the corner have all been catalysts in putting the mantra of "less is more" to the forefront of fashion sensibilities for 2021 going forward. That being said, a greater trend toward minimalism doesn't mean that you have to sacrifice personal style for the sake of comfort and convenience. A proper balance among all of these concerns is what's going to drive overall fashion sense in the coming months, and this is true for both formal and more casual spheres.

The upcoming summer season looks like it will bring more people outdoors again as the worldwide pandemic seems to be heading toward a more guarded place of being under control relative to last year, and while no one can predict the future with 100 percent accuracy, it does appear that many people are more eager—and more inclined—to socialize as they have a better handle on what's expected of them in the New Normal. As outdoor spaces become the more preferable social space even in warmer climates, this increases the need for additional comfort when it comes to formal wear.

As a result, lighter suit materials, and linen in particular, will of course be a part of this "less is more" trend, as balancing comfort and style is now way more important than it had been in years past. But while material is a major component of personal comfort when it comes to formal wear, there are subtler, less obvious considerations to be taken into account for leveling out comfort and style. Ever wonder why brighter pastel colors are more popular during the summer? Or why wearing an undershirt as an extra layer can actually keep you cooler? There is a science behind all this that many people don't think about at first, but we'll visit that later.

In this article, we'll give you the rundown on summer trends for 2021 as well as the benefits of linen and other light materials, so you can keep your summer ensembles as comfortable as possible when the mercury begins to rise. If there's anything at all that beats feeling comfortable while you're out and about, it's being able to look good while you do it, and our style pointers will surely help you get there.

After an unusually frigid winter, the warmer season couldn't come soon enough. This change in the weather, of course, brings with it, as always, the search for ultimate comfort. In spite of many people's preconceived notions about formal wear as it relates to a decrease in one's personal comfort level, a well-tailored custom suit should feel no less comfortable than putting on a pair of well-worn jeans. Proper measurements go a long way in achieving this balance, but in the summer months, clothing materials and color choices are also ever so important.

Before we move onto the suits themselves, we should touch on the types of shirts that you'll wear underneath the jacket to keep you cool. It's important that your dress shirts are of a lightweight material, but your color choices can be equally as vital. Your standard white is perhaps the best color suited for warmer months, as it tends to absorb the least amount of heat from the sun. The opposite is true for darker colors such as black or navy blue, and there's a reason why you don't see too

many people out and about in these colors on those bright sunny days. By wearing dark colors, your body will retain more heat, and if you try this yourself, you'll likely notice that your comfort level takes a dive after a very short amount of time, perhaps even 10 or 15 minutes. By sticking to white, lighter shades of blue, and bright pastel colors, you'll be able to stay outside for longer without sweltering in the summer heat. The same principle applies to the suits themselves, as well.

While many of us tend to look our best in a three-piece black suit, we might not always feel our best if we're forced to sit out in the sun for hours on end. Thankfully for this reason, summer formal events tend to be a bit more casual than their winter counterparts, so you're able to get away with more as far as what is considered to be formal in terms of style. Rather than being restricted to classic black, navy blue, or charcoal, you have a little more freedom to get creative with colors and patterns so long as they're tasteful as they are subtle. When you're dealing with pastel colors, sometimes it's actually better to go with narrow pinstripes, crosshatch, and herringbone patterns to offset the louder color schemes. Even in the brightest colors, subtle patterns sometimes have a way of dampening the loudness factor, and this is especially true on those oppressively sun-filled afternoons. It is best, however, to avoid patterns that might be too obvious or bold. Something like plaid, for example, especially when the intersecting lines are too large, can actually detract from any semblance of formality. Whatever you decide to choose, keep your patterns tight and narrow, as this will soften, rather than accentuate, bright pastel shades, keeping you looking good and feeling good at your next formal event.

These color and pattern considerations, however, can be lost if your suit material isn't up to handling the summer heat. Just as you wouldn't wear jeans and a T-shirt to the golf course, you wouldn't sport a flannel suit when the temperature outside is pushing 105 degrees, either. While the color of your suit may be important in keeping you comfortable, the material is essential. Lighter wools, wool/cotton blends, and linen in particular will outperform everything else when you have to be outside for extended periods of time. Although wool has remained the gold standard for suits of all styles, largely due to its ability to regulate body temperature through the wicking process, linen is a viable alternative for the summer months thanks to its similar cooling ability and structural properties.

Just like wool and cotton, linen has been used as a clothing material for thousands of years, and so far has not been replaced or made obsolete by anything else that has hit the market ever since humans have been wearing clothes. Various synthetic materials come and go, but natural materials such as linen have stood the test of time and will likely continue to do so for the foreseeable future.

Made from fibers of the flax plant, linen has unique properties that make it a superior material for warmer weather, hence its popularity in the manufacture of suits designed to hold up to the summer heat. Compared to wool and cotton, linen dries much more quickly so your body will stay cooler by the process of evaporation. The more moisture is kept away from your body, the more comfortable you will feel. In addition to its superior drying capabilities, linen is also

more lightweight than cotton or wool, which further enhances its tendency to help you stay cool.

When the fibers from the flax plant are woven into their final linen products, the strands themselves are thicker than they are with cotton or wool, and this is one of the reasons why linen suits tend to have a lower thread count without sacrificing durability. Because the linen strands also have slightly more space between them, this allows air to circulate more easily through the material, which accelerates the evaporation process. Those living in hot climates who aren't quite familiar with linen suits almost immediately notice the difference when they try one out, and because of this, linen is very popular in warmer regions throughout the country including the desert southwest, Florida, and other portions of the Gulf Coast.

While linen as a suit material doesn't have too many drawbacks, the material itself can be more expensive than cotton and certain types of wool, given the geographic and climatic limitations of where the flax plant will grow. But because linen suits require fewer strands of individual fiber, the cost of a linen suit can be comparable to one made of wool or other natural materials. Another minor drawback to linen is that it has fewer practical uses during the winter months, when staying warmer is desirable.

A proper quick summer suit guide wouldn't be complete without at least touching on trends as far as accessories go, and while shedding all the unnecessary frills, bells, and whistles seems to be very in right now, light touches to accentuate your outfits can maximize your style without weighing you down. Given the

upcoming warmer weather, you might be inclined to ditch the necktie to give your collar a little more breathing room. If you choose to do this, consider adding a pocket square in lieu of any neckwear. A pocket square, after all, is much easier to fold than tackling any complicated necktie or bow tie knots. If a necktie is a must, consider lighter materials or loosening the knot ever so slightly so it allows a little more room around the collar, but not appearing noticeable to anyone else to any degree. For those breezier summer days, consider adding a tie clip to help keep your necktie from flapping around too much; while the tie clip serves a mostly utilitarian function, its subtlety can really bring out your personal style with seemingly effortless precision.

From all of us here at Enzo Custom, we hope your upcoming summer season blows last year's out of the water. Whether you need to get fitted for something sporty for the coming months or require a tuxedo for more formal engagements down the line, feel free to step into one of our showrooms or schedule an online appointment with one of our expert clothiers, who will be more than happy to help you.

Ever wonder why brighter pastel colors are more popular during the summer? Or why wearing an undershirt as an extra layer can actually keep you cooler? In this article, we'll give you the rundown on summer trends for 2021 as well as the benefits of linen and other light materials, so you can keep your summer ensembles as comfortable as possible when the mercury begins to rise.

Upcoming Summer Trends For 2021, and the Benefits of Linen

If anything at all can be said about the previous year at the very least, it's certainly been a trying one. But as our innovations virtually know no bounds, it seems that more and more people are adapting to and embracing the New Normal as a way to enhance, rather than hinder, our basic needs as social creatures of habit. Events that were postponed or canceled are slowly but surely being revived as everyone navigates and adjusts to proper etiquette and physical distancing rules going forward. While some of us aren't complaining about being stuck inside, the upcoming spring season might be an opportune time to take a good look at your formal wear and to make sure it all still fits for any upcoming ceremonies and celebrations that are finally reemerging after months of indefinite postponement.

For all practical intents and purposes, the most formal dress code you'll likely ever run into is black tie, and because of its rigid standards, not much, if anything at all, has changed about it for several decades. In years past, the black-tie dress code seemed to be on its way out for weddings, but in recent years it's been making a comeback, as many wedding hosts are attracted to the dress code's symmetry and uniformity. For weddings, this dress code rigidity can do wonders for photo opportunities, since no one, in theory, will ever seem out of place if wearing wild ties or bright neon green dresses is off the table. Regardless of how everyone feels about black-tie dress code for weddings, it looks like the trend is here to stay for now. In this article, we'll do our best to give you a refresher on everything related to black-tie attire when you're invited to—or burdened with—a

wedding that requires everyone to wear tuxedos and cocktail dresses, even if you're lost at where to begin.

Before you even consider buying a tuxedo to keep in your wardrobe so you're prepared for those surprise swanky soirées, it's important to get the best possible measurements so your tailors will know how to best balance comfort with style considerations. Although tuxedos have a reputation for being uncomfortable, they don't have to be, and getting properly fitted will ensure a pleasant experience rather than a begrudging one. Here at Enzo Custom, the combined years of experience of our expert clothiers will render your tuxedo fitted to your liking, whether you want it contoured perfectly to your body type or allotting yourself a little more breathing room with the fabric. If you happen to be between sizes, which isn't all that uncommon, it's best to give yourself a little more length rather than less, as any future adjustments are easier when you subtract rather than add an inch or two.

In addition to the bow tie, jacket, and unique shirt placket most commonly used for the traditional tuxedo, cummerbunds, waistcoats, and suspenders are all just as equally important components of the ensemble, although not necessarily all together. Variations abound, but the classic black-tie look generally calls for a cummerbund. The main purpose of this garment is to conceal the bottom part of your shirt and to give the tuxedo its characteristic uniformity. Cummerbunds can also give your pants additional support, although its main purpose is really just a matter of style. Cummerbunds are generally worn by themselves, as wearing a

waistcoat or suspenders with them would be redundant. While you should never wear a waistcoat with a cummerbund, there may be times when you need to wear suspenders to give your trousers extra support. The only downside to this is that you'll have to keep your jacket on throughout the evening, as wearing a cummerbund with exposed suspenders is viewed as rather silly in some social circles. If you decide to add a cummerbund to your tuxedo, always make sure that the color of it matches the color of your bow tie. In the case of rigid black-tie dress codes, classic black is the best (and only) option you really need to worry about.

If cummerbunds aren't really your thing or you're concerned that they look too frilly, wearing a waistcoat (or vest) is an equally acceptable alternative, as it functionally does the same thing as a cummerbund. Wearing a waistcoat doesn't require suspenders, but if you want or need that extra trouser support, always wear the suspenders under the waistcoat. This unspoken but widely understood style rule goes back to the days when suspenders were by and large considered a form of undergarment, and while this is no longer true, wearing them below the waistcoat just looks better anyway.

In recent years, there has been an increasing trend to wear tuxedos sans cummerbund or waistcoat, and this is a great option for those looking for a sleeker, more modern twist on the traditional black-tie dress code. Wearing a tuxedo bare, as the practice is commonly referred to, is particularly good in warmer climates as it allows you to ditch any unnecessary fabric that might weigh you down on the dance floor. Just be sure to keep your jacket buttoned while you're milling about so as not to expose the bottom part of your shirt. You can achieve this look without wearing

suspenders, but we would suggest that you at least consider them, as they will give your trousers extra support. The worst thing one could do is forego them only to be burdened with adjusting your pants throughout the entire evening; in spite of the black-tie dress code's formality, the whole point of such an event is to socialize and have fun, not wrestle with your shirt and pants all night. If you go the bare route, wearing suspenders at the very least will add some stability to your overall ensemble. We can't stress this last point enough, but always make sure that your suspenders can be fastened to the inside buttons of your pants; never use suspenders that clip onto the waist, as this will look sloppy at best and inappropriate at worst.

For strictly black-tie affairs, your color choices for your tuxedo are obviously limited. But that doesn't mean your overall style has to take a backseat to make room for strict rules of formality. Your accessories can complement your black-tie attire, as a little subtlety goes a long way. Pocket squares are great for this purpose, as they are one of the few components of a black-tie outfit where you can deviate a bit from the norm. A white pocket square with a presidential flat fold is the preferred choice, but you can opt for other colors or pinstripe patterns as well. Just make sure that they aren't too bold or crazy, as this will detract attention away from, rather than complement, your black-tie ensemble.

Perhaps the most intimidating component of black-tie attire is the bow tie. While many opt for pre-tied selections in order to save time and create a uniform look, we would recommend tying it yourself. After all, much of the bow tie's charm

comes from its slightly asymmetrical presentation. In one of our previous articles, we gave you a thorough rundown of how to tie one yourself, and quickly. By following some simple steps, it's not as difficult as the bow tie's reputation makes it out to be. So here's a brief refresher, with steps:

1) Put the tie around your neck, making sure that the ends are parallel to the ground.

2) With the left side of the tie slightly longer than the right, cross the left end over the shorter right end.

3) Pull it underneath the space between the tie and your neck.

4) Pull the end tight and throw it over your right shoulder.

5) Take the shorter end in front of you and fold it over the part of the tie that's still around your neck. Make sure to hold it in place.

6) Take the longer end resting on your shoulder and drape it over the parts that you're holding in place.

7) Take the two ends of the shorter part of the tie and fold them together over the longer end. There should now be a small hole between them.

8) Take the long end of the bow tie and push it carefully through the left side of the hole.

9) Pull the looped ends away from the center of the tie and adjust accordingly.

You may have to repeat these steps a few times before you're satisfied with your look, but once you master it, rest assured that you'll be able to tie a bow tie properly in less than a minute. With practice, it's much easier than everyone says it is.

On occasion, you may receive invitations to formal events that indicate a dress code of black-tie optional. Generally, this means that you can deviate somewhat from traditional black-tie attire, but not too much. If you choose not to wear a tuxedo, at the very least go with a full suit in traditional colors or narrow pinstripe and crosshatch patterns. While you can get away with more colorful choices for your ties, pocket squares, and cummerbunds if you're adamant about wearing a tux, anything too loud or too bright is frowned upon. When in doubt, stick with traditional black-tie fare, as certainly no one will fault you for doing so.

From all of us at Enzo Custom, we wish you a safe and healthy spring season. If your wardrobe is in need of an upgrade, feel free to contact one of our expert clothiers via videoconference to get fitted, or step into one of our showrooms and get yourself ready for your next black-tie event.

Events that were postponed or canceled are slowly but surely being revived as everyone navigates and adjusts to proper etiquette and physical distancing rules going forward. While some of us aren't complaining about being stuck inside, the upcoming spring season might be an opportune time to take a good look at your formal wear and to make sure it all still fits.

Revisiting Everything Black Tie For Upcoming Proms, Weddings, and Awards Ceremonies

            In our previous installment related to preparing your wardrobe for the changing seasons, we covered the best ways to optimize your professional attire for colder weather.  We want to remind everyone that above all else, staying warm and staying safe is a top priority, so we understand that style might not be a major concern at this very moment; but when it is safe and comfortable enough to venture back outside on those brisk morning strolls to the office, it's worth glancing over.  While this isn't the first time a polar vortex has taken North America by surprise and it certainly won't be the last, they tend to fizzle out almost as quickly as they dropped down to those atypical latitudes.  Snow has fallen in Miami within the last century, and the mercury in Los Angeles crept up to 95 degrees one year, in January of all months.  While exceedingly rare, these strange events are certainly not impossible, so it's best to be prepared for anything.  Since spring is just a little over a month away, it's a good time to start thinking about optimizing your wardrobe for those rising temperatures and keeping yourself cool and comfortable as the days get longer.

            Short of keeping a spray bottle at your desk or showing up to work in your swim trunks, in this article we'll go over some tips and tricks to help you beat the heat when you have to suit up for those all-important board meetings and mandatory seminars.  

            Whether you walk outside of your home into a blast furnace or a meat freezer, what your clothing is made of will be the most important component of keeping you comfortable.  In the warmer part of the year, materials that are light and loose will do wonders for your overall comfort level.  This is one of the reasons why linen as a suit material is so popular.

            Linen is derived from the flax plant, and its fibers outperform cotton in terms of strength, durability, absorption, and the length of time it takes to dry.  These properties will keep your body and your clothing free of moisture—and therefore heat—more efficiently than other materials used for garments.  As the individual strands of linen fibers are also more tightly wound together than their cotton counterparts, linen suits can generally get away with lower thread counts, thus increasing breathability of the material.  It's yet another reason why so many suits in pastel colors are made with linen.  The propensity for bright colors to reflect light and heat away from your body, as opposed to black and dark blues, work symbiotically with linen's inherent ability to breathe.

            While at first glance it might seem counterintuitive, wool is yet another popular suit material for the warmer season, in spite of its association with colder weather.  Compared to most other materials out there, wool has superior wicking properties, which means that it is able to facilitate evaporation more quickly by drawing moisture away from the body.  We would advise, however, to stick with thinner wools during the summer months and avoid its thicker varieties such as flannel.  Wool's versatility in terms of its superior temperature-regulating properties is what makes it so widespread across the globe in all climates, as well as the gold standard for suit materials worldwide.

            Even though they're not quite as superior in terms of keeping you cool as linen and wool are, opting for wool/cotton blends is still miles ahead of settling for anything in the synthetic realm.  While blends don't quite have the same wicking properties as pure wool, the tradeoff is that they do come at a generally lower price point and possess a more inherent durability.  If you happen to live in a predominantly hot climate and are required to wear suits often, going with wool/cotton blends is certainly a cost-effective and comfortable option.

            Just as you would avoid synthetic materials in winter, it's even more important to avoid them in the summer.  Synthetic fibers such as polyester do a terrible job of keeping your body cool in spite of their resilience and durability.  While suits made from linen or wool cost more up front initially and require a little more proper care and maintenance, you'll thank yourself later when the temperatures start to rise.

            For professional attire, winter months tend to give everyone a better ability to accessorize and customize their outfits, as the cold weather requires more layers.  In the summer months, however, less is always going to be more.  But that doesn't mean you have to forego style for the sake of comfort.  When it comes to comfort, it's more about what others can't see rather than what they can.

            Just like it might seem counterintuitive to opt for a wool suit in the summer months, many professionals also don't realize how beneficial undershirts can be when the mercury rises.  If an undershirt adds another layer, how in the world is that going to keep you cooler?  Well, it relates back to the wicking process and drawing moisture away from your body, and this effect is extremely beneficial in hot climates of both humid and arid varieties.  An undershirt will help keep any moisture off your body and perhaps more importantly off your outer clothes.  If there's anything more uncomfortable than wearing a suit made from material that doesn't breathe, it's a suit that's saturated with moisture.  Undershirts will allow you to avoid this unpleasant scenario even in the sultriest climates. 

            The fabrics of your dress shirts also play an important role in keeping you cool and comfortable.  Just as you would with your suit jackets and trousers, opt for wool, cotton or linen over thicker materials.  On those scorching cloudless days, color is almost as important as the shirt material itself.  You're better off with shades of white, light blues, and pastel colors rather than black or navy, as you want to reflect light away from you, not absorb it.

            As the human body tends to lose much of its heat from the head and feet, it's important to make sure your socks aren't too thick.  You'll even notice this tendency on your days off in your own home resting on the sofa.  Regardless of where you set your thermostat, you'll feel more comfortable in thinner socks or none at all than you would in socks with a thicker consistency.  Be advised, however, that you shouldn't forego socks altogether when you're required to dress formally, as there still needs to be a buffer between your skin and your shoes to effectively regulate heat and moisture.  So long as the material can breathe and isn't too constricting, you'll be able to stay comfortable for longer, even if you're forced to brave the outside heat in a full suit.  As we mentioned before, it's oftentimes the components of your outfit that other people can't see that make or break a person's comfort level.

            We've all likely been stuck at a wedding ceremony at one point or another that was held in a church not yet retrofitted with air conditioning, and when we find ourselves in such a situation, wearing a tie can really hamper our ability to stay comfortable.  When you purchase dress shirts you plan to wear during the summer, it's important to make sure that the collar size is just right in order to avoid that suffocating feeling when you have to wear a tie.  A good rule of thumb to follow is that you should be able to fit your index finger between your neck and the collar without having to force it, or to get a more precise measurement, use a tape measure around your neck and then add half an inch.  This will ensure that you can wear your tie all the way up to your top button without feeling constricted or having to loosen the tie itself, as that can sometimes detract away from your overall style, depending on the occasion.

            If you happen to live in places such as Miami, New Orleans, Phoenix, or Las Vegas, you'll notice that what passes as formal in these cities can be quite different from formality standards in New York, Washington, and Chicago, and this is especially true during the summer.  Sometimes the weather is just too hot to accommodate a full traditional suit during the daytime.  In such cases, many events and places of work opt for business casual in lieu of more formal dress codes, and there's nothing wrong with using that to your advantage.  Wearing a dress shirt, sans tie and jacket, can do wonders for your comfort level.  Just always be mindful of when it is appropriate to dress down a little bit.  If you have no choice but to wear a full suit to wherever you're going, keep a spare hanger or two in your car to hang up your jacket while you drive, as this will optimize your personal comfort as much as possible without having to drastically alter your outfit.  Keep in mind, however, that business casual isn't necessarily an invitation to be casual, in the sense that most people use the word.  Save the polo shirts and floral prints for weekends and casual Fridays.

In our previous installment related to preparing your wardrobe for the changing seasons, we covered the best ways to optimize your professional attire for colder weather.  We want to remind everyone that above all else, staying warm and staying safe is a top priority, so we understand that style might not be a major concern at this very moment; but when it is safe and comfortable enough to venture back outside on those brisk morning strolls to the office, it's worth glancing over. 

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