            It's hard to visualize yourself in a suit without thinking about the tie you would match with it, as suits are, more often than not, worn with one.  Easy to tie and providing a central stylistic symmetry for balancing out a formal ensemble, it's no surprise that neckties dominate the top of the accessory market, and will likely continue to do so for the foreseeable future. While stylistic aspects of the necktie have fluctuated throughout the years, ranging from skinnier ties to wider knots, its place in formal wear is as ubiquitous as the white dress shirt.

            Before the necktie came into fashion prominence, the bow tie reigned supreme, and still does in the black-tie realm. Just as it is hard to picture a suit without a necktie, it's almost impossible to envision a tuxedo without a black bow tie giving the formal outfit one of its most defining characteristics. Although stylistic mores have deviated somewhat from traditional black-tie dress code rules in modern times, such as wearing a tuxedo without a cummerbund or vest and even daring to sport a necktie with a dinner jacket, black bow ties are still the gold standard for black-tie-only events.

            But bow ties aren't just for tuxedos and black-tie dinners. Just as the necktie has its own particular sets of charms and characteristics, a bow tie, when worn correctly, can liven up your cocktail and office attire just the same. So why is it that you don't see bow ties as often in formal settings outside of the black-tie realm? Perhaps the number-one reason for the majority of men favoring the necktie is because it's easier to tie, or at least has the perception of being easier. Another reason could be that neckties tend to offer more variety in terms of style, whereas bow ties available in most department stores have a more limited selection; finding a bow tie with enough flair to fit your personal style may take multiple trips to different stores or browsing online for a custom order.

            Stylistically, matching a bow tie correctly with a suit is a little more difficult than it would be with a necktie. A bow tie in and of itself is going to stand out more, simply because it's less common outside of wearing one with a tuxedo. But if you can pull off the distinguished look of a bow tie, you'll be able to take your personal style to new heights. In this piece, we'll go over the style nuances and special considerations to get you looking sharp in your suits when you decide to break tradition with a bow tie.

            Opinions vary on the difficulty of tying a bow tie, but it's generally perceived to be more difficult than tying a necktie correctly. While the steps of tying a bow tie aren't all that complicated, getting them all just right can take a bit of trial and error and thus requires extra time to perfect. Whether you personally find tying a bow tie to be easy or hard, compared to neckties there is certainly less room for error.

            In one of our previous articles, we went over the steps needed to master the art of the bow tie. Although there are variations on how to properly tie a bow tie, they all should end up with the same result when you're dealing with most standard bow ties available on the market today. Even though the process is straightforward, it's best to ensure that you have the proper length of each end from the beginning, as this will save you time when you complete the rest of the steps.

            As it goes with anything that requires nuance, practice makes perfect. The more often you tie a bow tie, the better you'll be at it. Even if you're not particularly big on the bow tie look and prefer the necktie or none at all, it's still good to practice your tying abilities every once in a while to make sure those skills stay sharp, as silly as that might sound. If your professional sphere requires formal wear more often than it doesn't, there's a good chance you'll have to show up to a black-tie dinner or dressy work function every now and then. As it takes more time to get ready for an event that requires a tuxedo anyway, tying a bow tie in a timely manner can make the difference between showing up fashionably late or missing the party altogether.

            The good news is that most bow ties sold today come with an adjustable strap, so achieving the proper length before you even attempt to tie a bow tie isn't too much of a task. Balancing out each side might take a bit more time, but if you follow the steps correctly, you'll be a bow tie pro in no time at all.

            While wearing a black satin bow tie with a tuxedo is considered to be the pinnacle of formal attire, bow ties worn with a suit exude a little less formality than what you would achieve with a necktie in the same ensemble. This is not to say that bow ties are precluded from most formal settings where a suit would be expected. It's just that you need to be a little more mindful, as a bow tie is more or less of a statement piece after all. To use an obvious example, it would not be prudent for one to wear a bow tie to a funeral; neckties are the preferred accessories here. It would also be wise to exercise caution if you're considering a bow tie for a wedding that's not at least black-tie optional, lest you upstage the groom or anyone else in the actual wedding party.  Short of those narrow scenarios, however, bow ties are fair game if you want to add a bit of outstanding charm to your formal wear.

            From a style standpoint, bow ties are easiest to pull off if you plan to wear a two-piece suit, especially if your tie is brightly colored or uniquely patterned. The burst of color at the top of your ensemble will surely stand out in a way that complements rather than detracts from the rest of your outfit. Bow ties also tend to work best when they're paired with dress shirts in a solid color. Wearing a bright patterned bow tie with a shirt that has intricate patterns or pinstripes could make your formal wear appear too busy and loud, which could bring your personal style down a few notches. When it comes to formal wear, a little bit of brightness and color is a good thing, but it has to be properly balanced. Too much brightness, on the other hand, can wreak havoc on the stylistic symmetry of your suit components.

            Another important thing to keep in mind when wearing a bow tie with a suit is making sure that your overall ensemble doesn't end up resembling a tuxedo too closely. While wearing a black bow tie or a white shirt is perfectly fine, you wouldn't necessarily want to wear both of those components together. If you plan on wearing a white shirt with a bow tie, make sure that your bow tie has enough brightness or pattern to it in order to offset the sort of blank canvas a white dress shirt provides. Likewise, a black bow tie can provide a bold accent to dress shirts in pastel shades or darker blues and reds, but might end up looking a little out of place on those crisp whites.

            No matter what colors you choose for your bow tie or dress shirts, it's also generally a good idea to never wear a bow tie that exactly matches the color of your shirt. This rule is true for neckties as well. For any formal ensemble, the whole idea is for each component to be distinct enough to stand out, but not so different to the point where the components no longer function well together stylistically. The opposite of that, of course, is having too much uniformity in the colors and patterns of your shirt and primary accessories. Other than the jacket and trousers of the suit itself, there needs to be sufficient contrast between everything else.

            While a bow tie paired with a suit can look great by itself, adding a pocket square to the mix can bring yet another layer of nuance to your overall style. One thing to keep in mind, however, is subtlety. As pocket squares tend to be one of those accessories where pretty much anything goes, pairing a pocket square with a bow tie requires a little more restraint. A pocket square that's too busy or intricately folded could detract from the aesthetic purpose of the bow tie. Since a bow tie takes up less visual surface area than a necktie, pocket squares worn with bow ties look best when they trend toward the more minimalist side of things. A classic or presidential fold can really lift the color and style of a bow tie in a positive way, whereas puff or peak folds could take away from a bow tie's desired impact.

            Any gentleman that's serious about his wardrobe knows that it's important to keep an assortment of neckties on hand for maintaining a style that's novel and up to date no matter the occasion. By adding a few bow ties to the mix, you can further extend the mileage of your formal wear and bring more variety to your professional and personal spheres.

It's no surprise that neckties dominate the top of the accessory market, and will likely continue to do so for the foreseeable future. While stylistic aspects of the necktie have fluctuated throughout the years, ranging from skinnier ties to wider knots, its place in formal wear is as ubiquitous as the white dress shirt.

Special Considerations for Bow Ties, Outside The Tuxedo Realm

            It's starting to approach that time of year again, when dressing for success comes with its own set of practical considerations that make it a bit more difficult to pull off in the comfort department. And we're of course referring to those soaring summer temperatures that get many people thinking about that other type of suit you wouldn't ever wear to the office. While staying comfortable in your professional attire during the summer heat isn't always an easy thing to do, it's not entirely impossible, either.

            It wouldn't be prudent to say with any firm assertion that standards of dress have fallen over the years necessarily, since many professional spheres haven't changed much when it comes to dress code mores. But overall, they have become more pragmatic and more accommodating, especially when you factor in regional climate considerations. This added dress code flexibility can be used to your advantage when the mercury starts to rise without sacrificing elegance or personal style for the sake of comfort; you can still have your cake and eat it, too, so long as you pay attention to particular aspects of what comprises a full formal ensemble and utilize them appropriately.

            Staying cool this summer in your formal attire can be achieved in a variety of ways, some of which don't even require you to forego the jacket and tie. Unlike measurements and type of fabric, comfort can't be quantified in the same way since it is subjective. However, adjusting the type of material that goes into your custom suit and even allowing a little bit more room in your measurements can make a world of difference between being the life of the party and suffering quietly while the sun does its thing. In this piece, we'll go over all the tricks of the trade to keep you comfortable and cool this summer, without having to give up your own sense of style to do it.

            Aside from the material of the suit itself and making tweaks to your measurements to get your summer custom suits more breathable, there are other measures you can take to stay comfortable that can work in tandem with or independently from choosing a different material or adding an extra inch to your shirt collar.

            Counterintuitively, undershirts can work to your advantage even though this adds an extra layer to your ensemble. While you'll still want an undershirt that's light and preferably made from cotton, they have the innate ability to keep moisture away from your outerwear via what's known as the wicking process. A cotton undershirt will absorb moisture from your body and prevent much of it from causing that uncomfortable sticky feeling if you weren't wearing one. With an undershirt, you'll feel drier and more comfortable on those hot humid days when formal wear is required in spite of the conditions outside.

            Opting for socks with a thinner consistency can also save you from discomfort on those warmer stuffy days. Since much of the heat generated by the human body escapes from the extremities, it's important to have socks that are more breathable than what you would wear in the winter when you would want to trap more heat rather than let it dissipate freely.

            Since undershirts are beneficial in hot weather, it's a good idea to minimize the thickness of each layer of your ensemble. Choosing a dress shirt that's light and made from material that allows for better airflow can do wonders for your overall comfort. The right choice of color helps, too. The lighter colors associated with summer formal wear aren't just for style and showing off; they serve a practical purpose, too. Wearing a dress shirt that's too dark will absorb more heat than light blue, pastel, or white shirts will.

             When summer comes around, it's important to have a custom suit made from lighter materials if comfort is of any concern. This is one of the reasons why linen is such a popular material for those brightly colored suits more commonly associated with the spring and summer months. Strands of linen fiber are quite durable for such a lightweight material, and this allows for a lower thread count in the finished product. As a result, there will be more space between each individual fiber in a suit made from linen, which in turn allows for better breathability and airflow compared to other materials such as wool and flannel. To quantify this for a better example, a typical suit made from wool tends to have a thread count somewhere between the 120-170 range. A linen suit can achieve the same structural integrity with a thread count between 80-90. For outdoor daytime settings where formal attire is required, linen is by far one of the best choices for suit materials thanks to its aforementioned intrinsic properties that will help you stay cool and comfortable.

            Wool/cotton blends can also have advantages over either material alone or some of the heavier wools popular for winter outings. While suits made from blended fabrics won't have quite the same soft-to-the-touch feel as a suit made from 100 percent wool, they tend to feel lighter when you move around. The added cotton fibers in the blend can overall reduce the weightier feel of the wool as the former is a lighter material.

            No matter the time of year, getting properly fitted is an integral part of not only how a suit will look but also how it will feel when you wear it. When the weather heats up, getting your measurements just right will go a long way in ensuring your personal comfort level whether you're inside or outdoors. That being said, there are certain small adjustments you can make exclusive to your summer suits and their components that might give you a leg up on comfort without sacrificing style, functionality, or structural integrity.

             When shopping for dress shirts in department stores, one of the more challenging things to nail down correctly is collar size. Many times, gentlemen will find themselves in between sizes or requiring just a quarter inch more to make a dress shirt more comfortable and breathable. In the summer, this is especially important. But you don't want to add too much room in the collar, as this can throw off the overall appearance of your formal ensemble. With custom dress shirts, this problem can be eliminated. The general rule of thumb for shirt collars is that you should be able to comfortably fit your index finger between the collar and your neck when it is buttoned all the way to the top. If you're burdened with living in a hotter climate, you might consider adding just a bit more room in the collar, as this will enable you to stay comfortable for a longer period of time. While going a smidge above your standard collar measurement isn't an exact science, it's best to stay under an inch. The whole point is to add extra room without it being noticeable from an aesthetic perspective.

            The same is true for the waist in your trousers. You might want to add a little more room to accommodate a dress shirt and a layer underneath that, but this should only be done with the utmost care. In any event, once you go in for your final fitting of a custom suit, you'll be able to know very quickly if something is off, and your tailor can make adjustments accordingly.

            While neckties are great accessories for adding more flair to your formal attire, there are times when you'd rather leave them at home. But should you?

            The answer to this question is a qualified yes. It's very common for men to wear suits without a tie, especially in spring and summer when they're sporting those brighter pastel colors. By foregoing the necktie, you're able to leave the top button on your dress shirt undone, further increasing your comfort level in the summer heat. In business-casual work environments, this is normally acceptable regardless of the time of year. Wearing a suit without a tie can also project a bold yet simultaneously relaxed look, so there are stylistic advantages to doing this, as well. There are times, however, when dressing down isn't always prudent. For any event that mandates a dress code, whether it's cocktail or black tie, it's probably best to stay within said confines unless it's clear that the dress code is more of a guideline rather than a rule when you arrive. It's always possible to remove a necktie, but you can't ever put one on if you don't come prepared or have a spare one with you. When in doubt, it's best not to dress down too much even if the weather would otherwise call for it.

            The same general rules apply to suit jackets as well. In some cases it might be appropriate to leave your jacket at home while in others it's expected that you wear one. Across the board, events taking place during the day tend to be more flexible on any sort of expected dress code in contrast to events taking place in the evening, so keep this in mind when you need to balance style considerations with judgment calls based on your own personal level of comfort.

            No matter how you plan on staying cool and stylish this summer, our expert clothiers at Enzo Custom can help. With a broad selection of fabrics and customization options, we'll have your formal wear covered, all year round.

While staying comfortable in your professional attire during the summer heat isn't always an easy thing to do, it's not entirely impossible, either. Staying cool this summer in your formal attire can be achieved in a variety of ways, some of which don't even require you to forego the jacket and tie.

Staying Cool This Summer: The Best Custom Suits and How To Beat The Heat In Style

            When you go custom, you're not just getting a suit that fits perfectly. You're getting an experience as well as a tangible extension of your personal style. While it's true that off-the-rack suit options can save you time, opting for a custom fit is certainly worth the extra planning involved. Choosing your own fabrics, features, and exact measurements to your comfort level from the beginning means that you won't have to shop for suits every few years or make constant unnecessary and expensive trips to your local tailor every time you need an adjustment.

            But with all the options available online and advertised by local stores and larger chains, how do you really know if the suits they're offering are in fact custom made? As many retailers offer tailoring services in some capacity, getting measured in their stores when you try on one of their suits might feel as if you're getting the custom treatment. But the alterations they can do for you will only go so far, since they're taking measurements after the finished product is made rather than before. A true custom seller will always take your precise body measurements before the manufacturing process even begins.

            The way we design and customize suits here at Enzo Custom goes well beyond the standards for what would be considered a comprehensive process. Our free consultation provides customers with the ability to properly pace out the timeline to the completed product, estimate costs, and go over materials and design customizations that we have to offer. Once your free consultation is completed either in one of our stores or virtually from the comforts of your own home, you'll be asked to come into one of our physical locations so one of our clothiers can take your measurements, 31 of them to be precise. This ensures that you receive the best possible fit with our finished product. Once your suit or tuxedo is ready, we'll take some final measurements and make any alterations as necessary.

            Compared to many other manufacturers and retailers out there, it's easy to see that with Enzo Custom, you have the ability to truly design a suit that's all your own, from each stitch of fabric down to the size of your trouser pockets. In this piece, we'll go over all the things you should look out for during the selection process and how to craft a suit that genuinely reflects your personal style.

            Thirty-one different measurements might seem like a lot, but the more measurements taken, the more your suit will fit comfortably and correctly to your individual body dimensions. Each tailor will vary somewhat on how and what they measure depending on the articles of clothing you're shopping for, but when it comes to suits, extra precision is needed in order to achieve that perfect fit. In addition to the standard measurements that determine the dimensions of shoulder width, trouser length, waistline, and arm length, more nuanced measurements for armhole width, wrist, biceps, inseam, half hem, and knees can really help to elevate your custom suit to the next levels of style and comfort.

            Although it's safe to say that all measurements are important, some will carry more weight than others in terms of how a suit wears on any given individual. The waistline measurement is of particular importance, and you may even want to let the tailor know to leave a little extra room depending on what you plan to wear underneath the suit, as climate and standards of dress can greatly influence a person's formal ensemble throughout the year.

            The trouble with some of the smaller measurements—wrist, bicep, inseam, etc.—is that the wearer may not notice that something is off right away, which means that accuracy is of utmost importance before the suit is set to be made. Although adjustments can be made later, it's best to have everything ironed out correctly from the beginning. As a precautionary measure, taking measurements more than just one time for any given body dimension is always a good idea in order to ensure a proper fit and allow the tailor to double check his own work.

            If you've ever perused our online suit and tuxedo collections before, you'll notice that we've added 3-D rendering to our customization page for better visualization of the finished product. While this isn't a substitute for seeing the material for yourself or getting measured, it's a good starting point for figuring out how your next custom suit or tuxedo might look once it's done. Depending on a suit's particular style, your measurements might also need to be adjusted differently to account for slight variations in pocket sizes and the overall cut of the jacket. Trouser lengths can also vary significantly depending on a suit's style, as some are expected to be worn with a higher belt line than others.

            To recap, most suits available on the market today come in three distinct styles: American, British, and Italian. While all of the components of each type are the same, there are both slight and significant variations in how each style is cut. Aside from measurements themselves, paying attention to each of these three types is vital when it comes to expressing your personal style exactly the way you want to. Slowly but surely, there is even a fourth suit style that is emerging with various attributes of the original three, but this global style type is not quite yet well defined.

            The American-style suit evolved in the early 20th century out of the sack suit and to this day still retains the perception that it's more comfortable than its European counterparts. Considered by some to be baggy and roomy, this extra comfort comes with a few tradeoffs. The overall look of an American-style suit isn't quite as sharp-edged as suits that fall into the British or Italian categories, but its softer, more well rounded appearance can compliment just about any body type. For gentlemen who want to stay comfortable and look professional at the same time, an American-style suit is sure to be an excellent addition to their wardrobes.

            On the opposite end of the style spectrum is the sleek and slim Italian-style suit, ideal for men who aren't afraid to show off their figure. Purposefully designed to enhance the natural contours of the body with a tapered waist and scant padding in the shoulders, a properly tailored Italian-style suit can really elevate your formal wear to the next level. The only downside, however, is the perceived loss of comfort due to the tighter fit. In spite of this, a good tailor will know how to keep you comfortable and nimble while wearing an Italian-style suit. For this style, accurate measurements are key as there is much less room for error.

            The British-style suit, in terms of how it's constructed, generally lies somewhere in between American and Italian styles, balancing comfort with a sharper aesthetic. With its structured shoulder padding, high armholes, and higher waistline, the British-style suit puts forth classic style combined with a subtle and restrained form ideal for both everyday office attire and dressy special occasions. Its tapered waist and stiffer canvas sometimes give the impression that a British-style suit loses a few notches in the comfort department, but with proper tailoring even the suit's more rigid structure shouldn't restrain one's movements to any significant degree.

            When it comes to suit style, most gentlemen do have a preference for one over the others depending on individual body type and desired comfort level. But it's also not uncommon for men to have at least one of each type accessible in their wardrobe, as more options allow for more style versatility depending on the occasion or setting.

            When designing a suit that's truly your own, choosing the right material is another important factor to consider. Arguably less vital than individual measurements or the particular style aesthetic you strive for, the material itself can go a long way in determining a suit's comfort level, how it wears, and even longevity.

            No matter a suit's particular style, wool is generally considered to be the gold standard when it comes to formal wear, since its intrinsic properties combine the important aspects of comfort, utility, and versatility needed for something that's worn on a regular basis. Wool's superior wicking attributes have the ability to keep a person comfortable regardless of the ambient temperature. As it is also a natural material, wool is regarded as comfortable to wear and soft to the touch.

            In spite of linen's lighter weight compared to wool, each strand of linen fabric is in fact more durable, which allows for lower thread counts on the finished product. This lower thread count is advantageous in warmer months and hotter climates where linen suits tend to be more popular for their superior cooling abilities and better airflow between fabric strands. As linen is also a natural material, suits made from this fabric are known for their comfort and flexibility whether you're standing up or sitting down. Suits made from linen are particularly useful for daytime events outdoors, as some gentlemen swear by the material's ability to allow better movement.

            When you require a suit that needs to hold up to the gradual wear and tear of everyday use, particularly in professional office settings, blended fabrics can offer some relief. With blends, the fabric of a suit tends to be stronger than each constituent material is on its own. The potential cost savings of blended fabrics can be an attractive attribute during the suit-buying process, as well. 

            Here at Enzo Custom, we understand that there's no right way or wrong way when it comes to individual design preferences. There is, however, a right way in delivering a finished product that matches a customer's expectations. Without taking any shortcuts, our expert clothiers will ensure that your next custom suit from us will be something that you can truly call your own, down to every last strand and stitch.

When you go custom, you're not just getting a suit that fits perfectly. Compared to many other manufacturers and retailers out there, it's easy to see that with Enzo Custom, you have the ability to truly design a suit that's all your own, from each stitch of fabric down to the size of your trouser pockets.

Designing A Suit That's All Your Own

            You'd be hard-pressed to find anyone out and about wearing a custom suit without a matching belt these days, and this observation shouldn't really be a surprise. Just like most other fashion accessories, belts also serve both a functional and stylistic purpose, adding extra trouser support along with a visual complement to the rest of a person's ensemble. Even though suspenders serve the exact same purpose and can be adjusted in a very similar way to belts, they're a little more difficult to put on and in some cases need to be measured more carefully in order to fit properly.

            While belts provide extra trouser support, they don't do so at the expense of ruffling up your shirt or restricting your movements as suspenders are sometimes known to do. By wearing a suit with a belt, you may even find that your suit jacket is able to show off a cleaner definition without suspenders creating those unnecessary bumps in your shoulder line. Although there are several pros and cons of each type of support system, choosing belts over suspenders and vice versa is always going to come down to a matter of personal preference. At least in North America, belts have always been the more dominant accessory out of the two going back at least 50 years.

            As the modern suit evolved, suspenders at first were considered more of an undergarment and needed to be concealed. Waistcoats, or vests as they are more commonly known, were very good at making sure suspenders stayed out of sight and out of mind. Belts, on the other hand, were originally designed as a form of outerwear and could provide support while simultaneously being on full display. As a result, belts began to dominate the American fashion landscape.

            In spite of the belt's dominance in terms of popularity, sometimes there are instances when formal wear is better suited without one. So long as personal tastes and fashion trends continue to evolve, there will always be a place for particular styles that favor suspenders or sometimes no extra support at all. Depending on various aspects of one's ensemble such as suit style, trouser length, time of day, and venue, breaking tradition without the belt can elevate your personal style to the next level. In this piece, we'll tell you how to go about it.

            Within the fashion community, there is much debate over whether or not one should always wear a belt if your pants have belt loops on them. Common sense would dictate that you should in fact wear a belt when that specific condition is met. In the realm of formal wear, combined experience tells us that any deviations from this unspoken rule are at least frowned upon. However, it's not uncommon for men to wear suspenders in place of a belt, even if their trousers have belt loops. While there are some men who would never recommend doing this, if you're insistent upon it then it's probably best to leave wearing suspenders with looped trousers for more casual engagements. Granted, it's not as much of a fashion faux pas as wearing gym shoes with a tuxedo, but having belt loops visible without a belt can throw off the symmetry of your ensemble and draw attention to something that will for sure look out of place. The key to wearing anything effectively is wearing it with confidence, but in the case of trousers with belt loops, it's best to exercise extreme caution if you choose to forego a belt, especially in formal settings.

            Just as there are unspoken rules for trousers with belt loops, the same applies to pants without them. With no belt loops present, gentlemen must opt for another mechanism to provide extra trouser support when it is needed. One of the most popular and effective ways to do this is through the use of suspenders, or braces as they are also known. Many suit pants available on the market today come with buttons on the inside of the waist specifically designed to accommodate suspenders. In the context of formal wear, it's pretty much standard to use suspenders with button fasteners rather than suspenders with clips for both functional and stylistic reasons. Suspenders with buttons are much less prone to coming undone accidentally, and since they fasten to the inside of the pants, the attachment remains away from plain view, rendering a more seamless overall appearance. But suspenders aren't the only option.

            Some suit pants can be tailored with adjustable straps hidden inside the waistband, and these pants can be worn without the use of any other support type at all. Many tuxedo pants also come with this feature since they're always worn without a belt.

            As far as style tips go, one key thing to remember is that you should never wear a belt with pants that don't have belt loops. Doing so is a major fashion faux pas that will certainly turn some heads. You also risk that your belt will fall down without anything to keep it elevated in place.

            Wearing looped pants with suspenders is more of a judgment call as we said before. Even so, doing this is probably best reserved for more casual affairs that don't require a jacket and tie, but this guideline is certainly more flexible than some other ones.

            One that's not so flexible, however, is wearing belts and suspenders at the same time. This should never be done in any setting, formal or otherwise. Wearing suspenders while wearing a belt is not only redundant but also outré, and not in a way that's particularly flattering as it will almost always convey a lack of fashion sense.

            Regardless of what your preference is when it comes to suspenders, belts, adjustable straps, or solely relying on proper measurements, it's always best to opt for something that will emphasize stylistic symmetry for any given ensemble, and this might vary considerably depending on what you're wearing on any given day. While most suits can be worn safely with a belt, others can sometimes look better without one.

            Off-the-rack suits offered at department stores and other large retailers can be convenient options when you're in a bind and need formal wear on short notice. However, what you gain in time efficiency is lost to style customization, even if they offer limited tailoring services. Since most of these suits come with pants prefabricated with belt loops, it becomes harder to make your own choices in terms of the trouser support you prefer. If you buy a custom suit, however, you can specify how it is manufactured before they even tailor your measurements and make adjustments as needed. For gentlemen who prefer suspenders, custom suits give them the ability to forego belt loops to provide a more seamless and symmetrical style that otherwise would be unavailable. With custom suits, you can even add adjustable straps to the waistband or simply rely on proper and precise measurements to give your trousers the support they need. In the latter case, however, we would still recommend inside suspender buttons as a backup measure in the event that you need extra trouser support in the future.

            The overall style of a suit and the way it looks on a particular person will have a lot of sway in determining whether it can be worn without a belt or should stay within the bounds of a more traditional style. Italian-style suits are generally tailored in a certain way that's more favorable to wearing one sans belt or even without suspenders, providing a sleek, modern, and seamless look that's harder to pull off with its American- or British-style counterparts. Since Italian suits are made with a higher waistline and provide more of an effortless transition between the top and bottom portion of the outfit, there's less of a stylistic need for a belt to delineate the midsection of the ensemble. Now that we've established that suits can sometimes be worn without a belt, there are other instances where a belt is still beneficial.

            If you plan on leaving your jacket at home for those occasions that don't require one, it's probably best to wear a belt to provide a semblance of balance between your shirt and your trousers. While you can also do this with suspenders in the event your pants don't have belt loops, semi-formal settings will generally favor belts in lieu of braces, as the latter are associated with a more formal mode of dress.

            A good rule of thumb to remember for less formal occasions or business casual office attire is that you should always wear a belt if you're required or expected to tuck in your shirt. Empty belt loops can stand out quite loudly especially when there's no jacket or free-flowing shirt bottom to conceal them.

            Style considerations aside, it's always going to be advantageous to wear a belt when you actually need the extra support, regardless of how formal or informal a venue may be. If your pants don't come with suspender buttons or adjustable straps in the waistline, there's not really much of a choice anyway. So long as your belt matches your shoes and doesn't take too much away from your ensemble, you can look just as stylish with a belt as you could have without one.

            The most important thing to remember is that going without a belt should be determined by how it would look on a given outfit rather than as a set rule for everything in your wardrobe, so if you find yourself in a position that requires dressing up on a regular basis, it's good to have as many options as you can at your disposal.

            No matter your preference, Enzo Custom can design and tailor suits exactly to your liking. Our expert clothiers can give you additional guidance when it comes to whether your style sensibilities and body type are better complemented by belts, suspenders, or simply relying on precise measurements for support. To get started, stop into one of our showrooms today, or if you feel more comfortable at home you can schedule a free consultation via videoconference.

Just like most other fashion accessories, belts also serve both a functional and stylistic purpose, adding extra trouser support Along with a visual complement to the rest of a person's ensemble.  Although there are several pros and cons of each type of support system, choosing belts over suspenders and vice versa is always going to come down to a matter of personal preference.

Breaking Tradition Without The Belt: Styles That Work (And Some That Don't)

            It doesn't matter if you're set on going all in on an elaborate ceremony at a swanky hotel or tying the knot in front of a justice of the peace; it goes without saying that one's wedding day is one of the most important, if not the most important day in a person's life. Surrounded by extended friends and family or saying "I do" in a more intimate and private ceremony, it's expected that most people want to look their best whenever they reach that unforgettable life milestone.

            With that milestone, of course, come plenty of stressful moments in a wedding's planning stages as couples try to nail down their version of the perfect day. Figuring out the venue, catering, guest lists, entertainment, and other logistical nuances can be overwhelming, especially when you haven't done something as grand as putting on a wedding before. On top of all the many things planning a wedding entails, one of the simplest things to decide on also happens to be one of the most contentious, and we're talking about dress codes. No matter what you ultimately choose to do, it's pretty much impossible to satisfy everyone in attendance, so before we go on, keep one thing in mind: do what feels right, for you and your spouse-to-be. That being said, there are certain things that can guide you more or less in the right direction when it comes to selecting a dress code—or none at all—for your wedding.

            Common wedding dress codes include black-tie, black-tie optional, formal, casual, cocktail, and everyday. But even when you don't spell out a dress code on the invitations, weddings will tend to have an implied dress code most guests will be primed to follow, almost always skewing toward formal and cocktail attire. Although you ultimately must do what you want to do, certain dress codes will have a better chance of keeping your guests happier than others. And nothing quite makes or breaks a wedding like the overall vibe of the crowd in attendance.

            In any event, the best thing to do when it comes to dress codes for your wedding is at the very least make sure your guests get the memo. There's nothing worse than having your guests show up to a wedding where they find themselves either one-upping the bride and groom or feeling underdressed and out of place. In this piece, we'll go over the best ways in which to go about finding that perfect dress code for your perfect day, whether you're looking for something traditional or a little more outside the norm.

            Aside from the type of venue and the size of your wedding, the geographic location of your ceremony and reception is an important factor to consider when you're shopping around for different dress codes. Holding a wedding right on the beach close to the water might require a different sort of suit than a wedding held at a fancy hotel. Likewise, a destination wedding far away from most of your family and friends may require a more flexible dress code than if you were to hold your ceremony indoors somewhere locally. Nothing is ironclad of course, but as a general rule, the farther distance required for your guests to travel, the more forgiving your wedding dress code should be. Most people own at least one suit and won't have a difficult time picking one up if they don't, but not everyone has a tuxedo or a white-tie ensemble at their disposal. While it's ultimately up to you, it never hurts to take the logistical concerns of your guests into consideration when you're on the fence about going with a black-tie-only or a more standard formal dress code.

            Although it's less of a concern when you're holding your wedding at an indoor venue, you may also want to consider the time of year in deciding which dress code, or variation thereof, would be best. Opting for a black-tie wedding in most geographic locales could work very well during the fall and winter months when the air tends to be cooler and drier; the extra components of a tuxedo are less inclined to make your guests uncomfortable when the weather calls for a few extra layers. Conversely, when the weather gets warmer, a semi-formal or cocktail dress code might be better suited for your guests, as it will give those in attendance a little bit more flexibility.

            In recent years it's becoming more common for wedding invitations to specify black-tie attire for the ceremony. While there are many benefits to a black-tie-only wedding, the overall consensus is mixed on the practice. If you receive a wedding invitation that indicates black-tie only, it means what it says. The guests in attendance are expected to wear proper black-tie attire: tuxedos for men, evening gowns for women.

            The greatest benefit to a black-tie-only dress code is the uniformity it can bring to a wedding ceremony, as your guests will not have to play a guessing game when it comes to the attire they're supposed to wear. Without confusion over the dress code, so long as everyone in attendance follows what the wedding party expects, the partygoers are less liable to stand out by being either overdressed or underdressed. Your wedding photos could also end up looking more professional when everyone in attendance is donning their best formal attire.

            Imposing a black-tie-only dress code, however, can sometimes draw the ire of your wedding guests, especially if they had to travel a great distance to get there. In addition to plane tickets and lodging, your guests may have to incur the extra expense of purchasing or renting a tuxedo or evening gown if they didn't already have one on hand in their wardrobe. You also run the risk of your guests simply disregarding the dress code to varying degrees, which could cause a bit of awkwardness depending on how rigidly dress codes are enforced in your social circles.

            Rather than outright mandate tuxedos and evening gowns, some couples opt for a black-tie-optional dress code on their big day. Unlike black-tie-only affairs, the black-tie-optional dress code allows for more choices and more flexibility in terms of what guests are expected to wear. For black-tie-optional events, it's perfectly fine to wear a full tuxedo, but formal dark suits and unconventional variations of the tuxedo are also acceptable. It's easy to think of black-tie optional as any mode of dress that fits somewhere between full black tie and a notch or two above cocktail attire.

            A black-tie-optional dress code is a great way to balance formality with convenience. It conveys a sense of importance without forcing your guests to make last-minute purchases or taking extra time to get ready. For couples who want all the formality of a black-tie wedding without some of the hassles that can come with it, black-tie-optional provides balance among the upper tiers of formal dress codes and still allows your guests to look their very best.

            There are, of course, a couple downsides that come with a black-tie-optional dress code. Compared to black-tie only, you'll have to contend with the loss of uniformity as far as your guests' ensembles go. Any dress code that has optional in its name is going to allow for more deviations that may even surpass what is expected in terms of formality. Black-tie optional is still a formal dress code; it doesn't mean that anything goes. Unfortunately, some of your guests may be confused by this and end up wearing something far more casual that's not exactly appropriate for the occasion. While it is a risk and our combined experience has seen our fair share of outlandish outfits when the dress code isn't necessarily set in stone, it's a small risk since black-tie optional implies formality in its name. In most cases, especially at weddings, the benefits of black-tie optional still outweigh any potential drawbacks.

            Although a tier down from black-tie optional in terms of formality, cocktail attire has been a popular wedding dress code for the better part of a century. Men are generally expected to wear a suit and tie, but the unspoken rules about colors and patterns tend to be more relaxed. Cocktail attire seeks to find that happy medium between comfortable and sophisticated, allowing guests to look their best but also feel casual while they do it.

            Opting for cocktail attire in lieu of more formal dress codes can put your guests' minds at ease, as they'll be able to enjoy the ceremony and reception without worrying too much about tuxedo studs falling out or bow ties that are too off center. The variety resulting from less restrained individual styles can also really liven up a party. Even something as simple as a pocket square can make for a good talking piece when it's worn with confidence.

            Since there's a bit of a grey area between cocktail attire and modes of formal and semi-formal dress, there's a chance that some of your guests might show up either overdressed or underdressed. It's pretty much a given that it's better to be overdressed in most circumstances, and more often than not people have a good idea of what is appropriate and what isn't. In any case, it's unlikely that any of your guests will feel left out if they unwittingly forego a jacket or tie, as the broader spread of style variations within cocktail attire can be a good cover for the few who may have neglected the finer points of that particular style.

            At the end of the day, the dress code at your wedding should reflect what feels right for your individual sensibilities. While some couples may encourage their guests to simply come as they are, others want the full wedding experience that comes with a more elegant mode of dress. Tailoring the dress code on your big day is just as important as tailoring your formal wear with personal style in mind. Whether you choose to get married on the beach in an exotic location or in a more traditional setting with church bells and ballrooms, the key is to make it memorable, however you decide to go about it.

It goes without saying that one's wedding day is one of the most important, if not the most important day in a person's life. It's expected that most people want to look their best whenever they reach that unforgettable life milestone.

The Wedding Dress Code Debate: To Have Or Not To Have

            In the realm of men's formal wear, the tuxedo continues to hold the number-one spot for elegance, formality, and personal style. Although the white-tie dress code still exists in some form, black-tie is the de facto ultimate dress code for special occasions around the globe and has been for the better part of a century. Unlike other fashion trends that tend to ebb and flow, the tuxedo has remained rather fixed and unchanged, establishing itself as the classic hallmark of memorable events, weddings, and other life milestones that require something more than just a suit and tie.

            For men, the black-tie dress code is oddly the most formal (for all practical purposes) and the easiest to follow. As black-tie events ensure a semblance of uniformity, there isn't too much room for deviation from what a typical tuxedo should encompass. So long as you have a properly tied bow tie, a cummerbund or a vest, satin stripes down the sides of your trousers, and patent leather shoes, you'll fit right in at any event that requires the black-tie dress code. But in order to pull off that striking look every gentleman strives for in a tuxedo, you have to go beyond just the basics.

            So what exactly makes a superb, stylish tuxedo? Just like most things fashion-related, it all comes down to the finer details. Getting your bow tie just right no matter how long it takes, folding your pocket square to balance charm with symmetry, and even choosing the right cufflinks and shirt studs all go into elevating your tuxedo a step above everyone else's. With black-tie-optional dress codes becoming more popular for weddings and cocktail parties, gentlemen now have the ability to move away from the rigid rules of strict black-tie outings and take their personal style a step further. In this piece we'll cover mastering the art of the tuxedo, as well as unconventional styles that make a good fit for those black-tie-optional outings.

            While some gentlemen are excited to receive a wedding invitation in the mail that specifies a black-tie-optional dress code, others dread it, perhaps only because of its perceived ambiguity. Black-tie-only is easy, because there's no question about what is required, in spite of the possible inconvenience of running out to purchase a tuxedo at the last minute. Black-tie-optional, on the other hand, leaves plenty of room to either be underdressed or even overdressed in some cases, depending on what the bride and groom are wearing. Black-tie-optional can mean different things to different people, but generally it encompasses everything from standard formal wear all the way up to a classic tuxedo, and whether you opt for a two-piece suit or a full tux with a wingtip collar and bow tie is completely up to you. When it's presented that way, it certainly becomes less confusing than some people make it out to be. In any event, there are times when black-tie-optional is called for, and other times when it isn't.

            If you choose to deviate from the rigid black-tie dress code, make sure that whatever event you're going to specifies the black-tie component as an option rather than a requirement. For example, if you receive a wedding invite that doesn't mention black-tie at all, you're going to be better off opting for a two- or three-piece suit in lieu of a tuxedo, as going with the latter could leave you looking way too overdressed. You don't want to find yourself in a situation where you upstage the bride and groom.

            For black-tie-only events, it's not uncommon to run into people who took that dress code suggestion with too many grains of salt. Still, it's best to let someone else be that guy. If it's a black-tie-only event, keeping to the standards of a classic tuxedo is your best bet, because if you don't there's a good chance you might actually be the only one who ran afoul of the dress code. It's best not to risk it. But if you find yourself anticipating a black-tie-optional event where that dress code is explicitly stated and you're not quite sure how to present yourself, deviating from the classic tuxedo can be a lot of fun, and you'll get better at it the more often you do it.

--Unconventional Black-Tie-Optional Styles--

            Not long ago, wearing a necktie with a tuxedo was practically unthinkable. Although this unconventional fashion statement isn't universally embraced, it's certainly much more common now than it used to be. But if you dare to pull this off, there are a few things to keep in mind.

            If you plan to wear a necktie with a tuxedo, don't just reach for any old tie in your wardrobe. Black skinny ties will look best, and only do this if you're sure that you'll be going to a black-tie-optional event. Wearing a necktie is generally frowned upon for black-tie-only outings. While this look can add a touch of sleek modernity to your formal ensemble, be mindful of the type of shirt you wear. Neckties should never be worn with wingtip collars, so if you decide to rock a necktie with your tux, opt for a tuxedo shirt with a spread collar instead, as it will conceal the back of your tie in the event you need to take your jacket off for any reason.

            Although black is the safest option for bow ties, black-tie-optional dress codes allow plenty of deviations from this. Sometimes one of the best ways to go off the beaten path of traditional black-tie attire is to simply liven up the colors and patterns on your tie and pocket square, even if you keep everything else about your tuxedo within the confines of black-tie rigidity. Whether you choose a more restrained dark blue or go nuts with stripes and polka dots, a little extra color in your tie and pocket square can go a long way in giving your outfit some extra pizzazz without resorting to anything drastic that might take away from your personal style.

            While it's hard to overstate the power of subtlety, sometimes an occasion rightfully calls for throwing restraint to the wind, but even so, we would exercise caution in straying too far away from common fashion sense. Even though you might be able to pull off a plaid bow tie, doing the same with a plaid tuxedo from head to toe might be a bit of a challenge. If you're going to mix and match colors, try to stay within the confines of what you would normally do if you were venturing out to any other formal event that didn't require a tuxedo. Unless your goal is to stand out in a very pronounced way, sometimes the best thing to do for black-tie-optional affairs is to wear the best suit you have in lieu of reinventing the tuxedo. But if you must do the latter, focus your attention on the details that would be noticeable in a conversation rather than from across the room.  Opting for unconventional cufflinks or shirt studs can add a bit of charm to your ensemble without relying on garish gimmicks.

            Unconventional style considerations aside, nailing down the tuxedo correctly requires certain fundamental aspects that cannot be overlooked, whether you go the traditional route or strive for something a little more avant-garde.

            As the same goes for two- and three-piece suits, getting properly fitted for a tuxedo is key to wearing one with confidence. With tuxedos, there is even less room for error with regard to body dimensions, as they have more components that need to work synergistically with one another. A waistcoat that is too loose will alter the way in which the jacket fits over your shoulders. Conversely, a cummerbund that is too tight can restrict your movement and make your shirt appear bunched up. Compared to a custom suit, a tuxedo will always have more potential points of failure, so it's extremely important to get fitted properly in order to avoid any discrepancies that could throw off the symmetry of your ensemble. Venturing into more unconventional styles is also easier to pull off when your measurements are on point, since anything that stands out stylistically will always draw attention to any structural flaws that would have gone unnoticed with a more conventional presentation. By ensuring that your tuxedo is accurately measured to your body dimensions, you automatically allow yourself more leeway if you choose to move into uncharted territory from a style standpoint.

             Aside from knowing the technical aspects of the tuxedo and how all of its components work together, context can be just as important. Knowing the type of venue you're set to attend can give you plenty of insight as far as what you'll feel comfortable with in terms of those style judgment calls that aren't so cut and dry. Being the best man at your brother's wedding, for example, is going to be different from attending an after-work function where rules about dress code are assumed to be more relaxed. Whether you stay within the bounds of tradition or go with something that pushes a few boundaries, you have to be comfortable in what you wear, both in terms of style and how it literally fits.

            Here at Enzo Custom, our expert clothiers can give you the proper guidance when it comes to the technical aspects of your next ensemble, as well as insights into what will work best for your own brand of personal style. Whether you prefer to stop into one of our showrooms or meet with us via videoconference, our combined years of experience can get you ready for your next black-tie (or black-tie-optional) event on your schedule.

Black-tie is the de facto ultimate dress code for special occasions around the globe and has been for the better part of a century. Unlike other fashion trends that tend to ebb and flow, the tuxedo has remained rather fixed and unchanged, establishing itself as the classic hallmark of memorable events.

Mastering The Art Of The Tuxedo: Unconventional Styles For Black-Tie Optional

Aside from fitting into the front pocket of your suit jacket, pocket squares should fit just as well into your personal style when they're worn correctly and with confidence. As far as accessories go, pocket squares are one of the most versatile add-ons in terms of giving your overall ensemble that extra finesse and style facelift all gentlemen strive for. Less constrained by some of the more rigid fashion rules that dictate what patterns and colors you can match together, pocket squares give you the option to either edge your style into a wilder abandon or simply add just a little bit of flair to a more minimalist fashion sensibility.

            In today's landscape, pocket squares exclusively serve an aesthetic purpose, but their origins can be traced back to the handkerchief, usually worn on the inside of a suit jacket meant for personal hygiene purposes such as wiping one's hands, face, or nose. As the handkerchief evolved, the material itself morphed into an indicator of a person's socioeconomic status; once societies became more egalitarian, the pocket square cemented itself as a way to elevate personal style without relying on elaborate upgrades or over-the-top fashion statements. Depending on one's geographic region and corresponding culture, the terms handkerchief and pocket square are sometimes interchangeable, although the former implies a more practical use than the latter.

            On average, pocket squares range between 10 x 10 and 17 x 17 inches. Fabrics will vary, but it's common for pocket squares to be made from either silk or a synthetic blend. Thanks to their symmetrical dimensions, pocket squares are easy to fold into a variety of different patterns that, when done properly, will give your personal style a subtle edge. In this piece we'll go over some of the more popular ways gentlemen fold their pocket squares, all with varying degrees of skill required to pull them off fashionably.

            The great thing about pocket squares is that many of the more common ways to fold them require very little acuity and practically no time at all. When you're running a bit behind schedule for a black-tie event, seconds matter, especially when getting your tuxedo just right can require some extra attention. Adding a pocket square with a presidential fold can take 30 seconds or less, which is perhaps why this fold is also one of the most popular.

            With the pocket square face down, simply fold it in half from right to left. Then fold it in half again in the opposite direction (left to right), leaving a small gap toward the right edge. Instead of a square you should now have a narrower vertical rectangle. Fold this in half from top to bottom, and then fold the bottom open edges behind the front of the square. Once you make minor adjustments accordingly, you now have a pocket square with a presidential fold, one that should peek out of the top of your pocket with an edge parallel to the ground. Simple yet sleek, a white pocket square with a presidential fold is a great way to spruce up your black-tie attire in a restrained and subtle way.

            On some occasions, you may want to go up a notch from the presidential fold but without doing something too elaborate. The single-peak fold, or one-point fold as it is sometimes called, is one way to do this. Just like the presidential fold, the single-peak fold is restrained and elegant, with just a little bit more of an edge.

            To achieve this fold, lay the pocket square flat in the shape of a diamond. Take the bottom point and fold it to the top point, which should form a triangle. Now, fold both bottom end points inward. After some minor adjustments, you should be able to place the folded square into your pocket with the formed triangular peak jutting out of the top. As the one-point fold is easier and faster than tying a tie with a standard four-in-hand knot, it's a popular choice for all occasions that require a boost in personal style while still retaining subtlety.

            Rounding out the easy ones, the classic fold is a variation of the presidential fold. The fold will yield a similar style with just a touch of extra frill, as it is folded in a slightly different way than its presidential counterpart.

            The first two steps are exactly the same. Lay the square flat and then fold from right to left. Instead of folding in the opposite direction for the third step, fold the rectangle in half from bottom to top. Then fold the square from left to right. Finally, fold the bottom behind the front. In lieu of a flat crease that a presidential fold should deliver, the classic fold should give the appearance of a few offset layers peeking out of the top of your pocket. Some gentlemen find that the slight asymmetry adds a bit of charm to their ensemble, much in the same way a bow tie would.

            The aforementioned basic pocket square folds tend to work best with solid colors, in particular white when you're preparing for black-tie affairs. But sometimes your personal style might require something that stands out just a little more. Pairing your typical pocket square with a fold that demands some extra technical finesse is an effective way to ratchet up your sense of style a notch or two while still retaining a sense of subtlety.

            Giving your pocket square a two-peak fold follows similar steps that you would use for a single-peak fold, with one minor alteration. Once you lay your pocket square flat in a diamond position, fold the bottom end up, only this time offset the points; you should now have two peaks at the top of your pocket square. Then take the bottom ends and fold them inward. If necessary, you can fold the base up and under the front for a better fit inside your front pocket. Instead of one point, you should now have two visible points above your pocket. This fold works great for both solid and patterned pocket squares.

            For something with even more flair, consider the three-peak fold. To achieve this, you'll need to lay your pocket square flat in the diamond position again. Fold the right point directly over the left one, which should give you a triangle with the long side in a vertical position. Then take the bottom end and fold it up just to the right of the top point; you should now have two sharp points at the top of your pocket square. Holding the top layer of the pocket square in place, carefully fold the bottom corner up toward the right of the second peak. Fold the remaining bottom corners up and behind the front of the pocket square. Once you adjust everything to your liking, you'll now have three distinct points visible from your jacket pocket. This style pairs well with double-breasted suits, as the three points complement the peak lapels more common on double-breasted jackets.

            When it comes to the puff fold, this style is less of a fold and more of an art, as the puff generally requires a few exercises in trial and error to nail down correctly. With the pocket square placed on a flat surface, do your best to pinch the very center of the square and pick it up. Now that the center point is in your hand, run your other hand all the way down the material to even out the bottom points. With the bottom points in your other hand, tap the top point lightly. This should give the point a distinct puff. Carefully fold the bottom points inward and adjust accordingly so it fits easily into your suit pocket. Each time you do this, the puff will never be exactly the same, so you may need to repeat these steps a few times before you get the puff exactly to your personal liking.  For some extra flair, you can also choose to do a reverse puff fold, which only requires one extra step. Instead of folding the bottom points inward, fold them in half directly behind the puff and turn the pocket square around. The puff should then appear as if the corners of the pocket square surround it.

            The winged-peak fold, or split-diamond fold, is a variation on the standard single-peak fold with an added element of sharpness. In lieu of a smooth triangular peak, the split diamond gives the appearance of a crease down the middle of the peak. For this fold, you may want to use a pocket square with a more rigid material so its shape holds without sagging. With the pocket square on a flat surface, fold the top part down to make a horizontal rectangle. Then fold the right half over the left side to make a square again. Diagonally fold the square to make a smaller triangle. Take the bottom end points of the triangle and fold them toward the top center point; this should yield a diamond with a crease down the center of the folded pocket square. Once you get the placement right in your jacket pocket, you should have a perfectly formed peak with a prominent crease. Pocket squares with solid colors work best with this fold, and you may want to use one with larger dimensions to accentuate the spread of the peak.

            While there is certainly no shortage of different ways to style pocket squares, especially as the complexity of the folds increases, one of the most difficult folds to pull off correctly is the rose pocket square fold. The rose generally requires even more attempts than the puff fold, so make sure you leave yourself ample time to get ready if you choose to add this level of flair to your personal style. With your non-dominant hand, form a small hole between your thumb and index finger. Center the pocket square over your hand and push a small amount of material through the gap, keeping a tight grip on the material now in your hand. Take your dominant hand and gently twist the top of the pocket square until there is no more loose fabric. This will allow the material to gradually overlap, giving the appearance of a rose at the top of the pocket square. Carefully remove the pocket square from your hand and smooth out the bottom half. Once you fluff up the rose and make some minor adjustments (keeping in mind to do this very delicately), simply slide it into your jacket pocket and allow your pocket square to take your style to the next level. The rose can appear exceptionally sophisticated when the fabric of your pocket square boasts elaborate patterns or tight alternating strands of color.

            Although pocket squares aren't a necessary component of formal wear, they do serve an undeniably useful purpose. Pairing one with your next Enzo Custom suit will bring your personal style into the foreground, whether you strive for boldness or seek out subtlety in your wardrobe.

As far as accessories go, pocket squares are one of the most versatile add-ons in terms of giving your overall ensemble that extra finesse and style facelift all gentlemen strive for. Pocket squares give you the option to either edge your style into a wilder abandon or simply add just a little bit of flair to a more minimalist fashion sensibility.

Folding Pocket Squares To Fit Your Style

A custom suit encompasses more than just premium fabric, perfect fit, and unmatched style. For any formal wear worth its salt, it goes without saying that the finer details are what elevate an ensemble above the ordinary, down to every last stitch, button, and crease. While it's true that aspects such as color, style, and fit tend to be the first things we notice when it comes to formal wear, it's the hidden details that effortlessly push those more obvious parts of a custom suit to the forefront.

            As far as personal fashion sensibility goes, it would cease to exist at all without those subtler parts of custom tailoring. In order for one's own style to really shine through, the constituent components of a custom suit need to gel and come together just the right way for the individual wearing it. And of course, time and place matter, too. What style works for someone in an office setting might not be the best choice for a wedding or cocktail party; for others, their personal style may be interchangeable no matter the time of day or the venue. With custom design, there are so many variables at play, and that's a good thing from a style perspective.

            Since so many components, design schematics, materials, and aesthetic nuances go into the finished product, it's sometimes difficult to grasp how all of these different aspects work symbiotically to give a custom suit, tailored to a specific individual, that sense of style they've been looking for but could never quite nail down. Since we've updated our custom suit visualizer, getting a better picture of what your finished product will look like has never been easier, all the way from the vents in the back of the jacket down to every last thread of fabric. In this piece, we'll go over some of those finer details that take custom suits to the next level.

            It tends to be one of those things that we hardly notice or even look for. But they can go a long way in determining the formality of a particular ensemble. Chances are, you might not even know the exact number of suits in your wardrobe that have only one vent, two vents, or none at all off the top of your head. It's certainly something most of us don't even think about after a purchase, but the vents on a jacket can do quite a lot in setting the overall tone and style of a given suit. Although vents mainly serve the functional purpose of making it more comfortable to wear a suit in a sitting position, they do have style implications as well.

            Following archetypal classic American sensibilities, many suit jackets on the market today contain only one vent, and there's a reason why this sleek yet minimal style remains a popular choice for gentlemen around the world. The center or single vent, as it is also known, is an excellent choice for all body types and works well in both formal and informal settings. A standard feature on many two-piece suits, the single vent also makes its appearance on sport coats and blazers, thanks in large part to its versatility and ease of manufacture. For men who lean toward a subtler, no-frills classic style, the center vent combines minimalism and just a touch of flair for a refined yet laid-back aesthetic that's certainly not falling out of fashion any time soon.

            Suit jackets with two vents, also known as double or side vents, have some functional advantages over the more common center-vent style. The extra space provided by two vents rather than one allows for easier movement and more comfort when sitting down. Side vents also reduce bunching and creasing that can occur at the back of the jacket when in a sitting position for long periods of time. Stylistically, many gentlemen consider side vents to ratchet up a suit's perceived formality and finesse, and they would be right, to a degree. Wearing a suit with side vents is harder to pull off correctly, as it requires much greater precision in terms of getting the proper measurements and fit in order to achieve the intended visual effect. Side vents have the ability to not only slim down a person's figure but also add an inch or two in terms of a person's perceived height due to the vertical creases on the back of the jacket. So long as you weigh the potential pros and cons of a double-vented suit, proper tailoring and a precise fit can bring your personal style to the next level.

            Less common than center or double vents, some suits come with no vent at all. This is actually the standard for tuxedos worn in formal black-tie settings. At the expense of additional comfort, a suit with no vents that is tailored accurately can provide a very sleek and uniform appearance. The drawback, of course, is that the jacket may be prone to more bunching and unwanted creases, but it's an option to consider, especially if you have a slimmer build.

            Even more elusive to the eye than jacket vents, not too much thought is given to the buttons on a suit, as they predominantly serve a functional rather than aesthetic purpose. However, buttons can provide a suit with a subtle, refined attention to detail that other components are often unable to do. Just like cufflinks and lapel pins, buttons can round out a suit's overall style not in spite of their perceived insignificance but because of it.

            In the case of tuxedos, the buttons are usually made from the same material as the jacket itself. For many custom suits made with formality in mind, buttons generally match the material of the suit in some way, whether by color or even the type of fabric. But when it comes to buttons, more flexibility is available from a fashion standpoint. Depending on the fabric's color, for example, pairing black buttons with a neutral grey suit can make a bold style statement when done confidently, as the accents from offset colors allow a suit to really stand out in a good but almost imperceptible way. With this in mind, there are, however, a few hard and fast rules for buttons on a suit.

            First and foremost, the smaller buttons normally found on the jacket sleeve should always match the buttons on the front of the jacket. Mixing and matching colors between the buttons themselves, however slight, will throw off a suit's stylistic symmetry.

            How you fasten the front buttons on a suit jacket is also just as important from a style perspective. For two-button suits, the top button should always be fastened while the bottom one should remain unbuttoned. If you decide to go with a suit that has three buttons, the bottom one operates under the same rules as a two-button suit, that is, it should be left open. The middle button should always be closed, while the very top button is more or less a judgment call. It can be left open or closed, depending on your personal preference and how high the lapels are positioned. In any event, with a three-button suit jacket, you should follow whatever looks the best for the suit you happen to be wearing at the time and your individual body dimensions. Just make sure to always leave the bottom one undone.

            In contrast to buttons and vents, lapels tend to stand out the most and play an important role in how a suit conveys your personal sense of style. Depending on the type of suit you intend to wear, whether it falls in the British, American, or Italian category, lapels are a key component in setting the tone of your overall presentation.

            In the realm of formal wear, there are three standard lapel types. Peak, notch, and shawl lapels all have varying degrees of style connotations, sometimes dependent upon the level of formality and overall sharpness desired for a given ensemble.

            Shawl lapels are the gold standard for tuxedos. As a result, they are considered the most formal type, having a smooth rounded shape from the neck down to the front tuxedo button. Since tuxedos are designed with uniformity in mind, it's likely that you won't see shawl lapels too often outside of black-tie affairs. While some tuxedos sold on the market today deviate from this standard, opting for a shawl lapel ensures that you'll achieve a very high level of formality in your style. 

            Double-breasted suits and some three-piece suits tend to favor the peak lapel, easily recognized by the extending points just below the shoulders. Bold and broad, peak lapels give gentlemen the ability to make a robust fashion statement without going overboard.

            Notch lapels, in contrast, are considered less formal but do have style perks of their own. Most common on standard two-piece suits, the symmetrical points on notch lapels don't extend past the lapel itself, which renders a style that is formal yet simultaneously relaxed and restrained. For gentlemen who prefer a more minimalist and modest approach to fashion, notch lapels can still provide a sleek classic appearance ideal for both the workplace and those special occasions.

            By paying close attention to the finer details of a custom suit, you'll be able to narrow down a better sense of style that you can truly call your own. Before you even schedule a consultation with one of our clothiers, Enzo Custom's online visualizer can assist you in getting a clearer picture of what your ideal suit will look like once you're ready to turn those imagined prototypes into a reality. No matter your level of experience in the realm of formal wear, we've got you covered, head to toe.

A custom suit encompasses more than just premium fabric, perfect fit, and unmatched style. While it's true that aspects such as color, style, and fit tend to be the first things we notice when it comes to formal wear, it's the hidden details that effortlessly push those more obvious parts of a custom suit to the forefront.

Vents, Lapels, and Buttons: All The Details That Round Out A Custom Suit

Whether you're walking into a major big-box retailer or diligently researching online for a reputable custom tailor, the process of buying a suit can sometimes be a bit intimidating at first. With all the options available in the clothing marketplace today, narrowing down exactly what you want in terms of personal style and what you need when it comes to functionality isn't always a streamlined process. As daunting as all of this can be, it's not necessarily a bad thing. As a customer, it's always better to be prepared a little too much than it is to go into the suit-buying process with blinders on.

            Here at Enzo Custom, the fitting process goes above and beyond what you would expect from your typical off-the-rack experience. While it's certainly not as quick as getting fitted in a department store, our clothiers ensure that the additional measurements going into the end product are well worth the extra time.

            Experiences will vary, but most retail chains end up only doing the bare minimum when it comes to measurements. Although many of their suits and tuxedos are manufactured to fit a broad range of individual body dimensions, this doesn't mean that their suits will meet those same dimensions with any precision. Even if they're able to tighten the shoulders or adjust the length of the trousers quite easily, the end result won't be close enough to your specific dimensions in order to give you that bespoke or made-to-measure fit you've been looking for.

            Before we delve into our fitting process, it's always a good idea to do some preliminary research on your own in terms of what you're exactly seeking out when it comes to formal wear. Not only is your personal style going to be different from someone else's but also each type of suit might have different applications, even if some of those overlap. For example, while two-piece suits are a safe bet for everyday office attire, three-piece and double-breasted suits might be a better fit for special occasions the majority of the time. Getting into more style specifics, you might prefer a slimmer fit in lieu of broader lapels or jetted pockets as opposed to flap ones. If you're set on ordering a tuxedo, you might prefer a vest to a cummerbund or vice versa. No matter what your formal wear preferences end up being, Enzo Custom is here to guide you through the process.

--The Free Consultation, At Your Convenience--

            As a courtesy to our customers, Enzo Custom's free consultation can be done either physically in one of our showrooms or virtually online via videoconference. This is the initial step at which one of our clothiers will go over various aspects of what sort of garments we offer, the estimated timeline of when your suit or tuxedo will be ready, and the expected cost when it's all said and done. All of these factors will vary from person to person depending on what they need from us, and the consultation is the opportune time to ask any and all questions you may have about the entire process.

            With a virtual meeting in lieu of an in-person one, depending on where you're located in relation to our physical showrooms, this has the potential to save you a lot of time. Consultations take about 30 minutes, so if you're on a tight schedule, you can work the initial appointment in without needing to set aside extra time for commuting or planning too far ahead. As Enzo Custom offers several different suit styles and materials, our clothier during the virtual conference will be able to get a better sense of what exactly you will need for your next formal ensemble.

            If you choose to have your free consultation in person at one of our showrooms, the process will essentially be the same, with the exception of having a more hands-on approach. Seeing the materials for your prospective suit is one thing, but being able to hold fabric samples in your hand can give you a better idea of how the finished product will feel when you're wearing it. Whether virtual or in-store, we'll ensure that the consultation is as comprehensive as it can be.

            Once the virtual or in-store consultation is completed, our clothier will then schedule a private fitting appointment at one of our showrooms. In order to ensure a true custom fit, our clothier will take up to 31 different measurements. While that might seem like a lot, it's the best way to accurately get the finished product fitting as closely and comfortably as possible to your individual body dimensions.

            After your measurements are taken, the design process then begins. Our clothier will walk you through in more detail what was covered in the free consultation, including style, suit color, fabric, and any special considerations you might need to keep in mind.

            When choosing a fabric, wool is usually the gold standard as far as formal wear goes, but linen is also another popular option for when you need something a little lighter during the summer months. Depending on your individual specifications, thread count may be something you'll need to take into consideration when you weigh different aspects of what you want in the finished product. Balancing style, comfort, longevity, and fit isn't always an easy task, but our clothiers are more than willing to walk you through each facet of the customization process. In total, measurements and working out the design of your new formal ensemble should take about an hour. While the free consultation can always be done virtually, orders and measurements for new clients must be done in one of our stores. While other manufacturers allow their customers to simply plug in their dimensions online, it's still not quite as accurate as having them done in person. By getting all of your measurements done in one of our showrooms, this ensures that you'll notice and appreciate the Enzo Custom difference once your formal wear is ready to be picked up.

            After your measurements have been taken and you've settled on the design of your formal wear, the order will be placed. Once it arrives, our clothiers will have you come back to our showroom for a private appointment in order to make sure that everything fits to your liking. Going through one final fitting ensures that we can make any last-minute adjustments if necessary. While the initial measurements are always taken with the utmost care and precision, there are times when a sleeve might be a smidge too long or the waist needs to be adjusted. Even with accurate measurements, a suit might have a different feel to it depending on how you wear it and the type of shirt you have underneath it. Think of the final fitting as a quality control measure to go over the finer details of your formal ensemble one last time, as this will save you from making any immediate alterations after you head out the door.

            Once you've gone through the Enzo Custom experience the first time, the process will be a bit more streamlined when you decide to buy formal wear from us again. As we will already have your measurements on file, ordering again doesn't require an in-store meeting. Any shopping you need to do can be done virtually without the need to repeat the measuring process. While you'll still need to come into one of our showrooms for the final fitting of the finished product, designing a new ensemble to your personal specifications can be done from the comfort and privacy of your own home.

            Although we specialize in suits and tuxedos, there's always more to formal wear than just jackets and trousers. With decades of combined experience, our clothiers can guide you in the right direction when it comes to other items you may need, such as dress shirts, ties, pocket squares, vests, and the types of colors and patterns that will end up looking the best for your own personal sense of style. All of these extra considerations can be touched upon in the virtual consultation to give you a better picture of what your finished formal ensemble will be.

            There are a couple other things to keep in mind once your virtual or in-person consultation is completed. As you're preparing to arrive at one of our showrooms for the fitting process, wearing the proper shoes will allow our clothiers to take more accurate measurements of the trouser length. Dress shoes that you would normally wear with a suit or a pair of slacks will ensure that the finished product drapes correctly without the need for any significant adjustments in the future. If you're looking to purchase a tuxedo from us, we'd recommend wearing the exact shoe you plan on pairing with the finished product, as tuxedo pants are generally worn slightly higher than suit trousers and patent-leather shoes normally worn with a tuxedo tend to have a lower profile than other dress shoes worn in contexts outside of black-tie affairs.

            The same logic should be applied to dress shirts as well. Wearing a dress shirt you intend to wear with your finished ensemble is especially important during the final fitting, as you'll be able to determine how well the suit jacket fits over it, and if there are any issues, our clothiers can make adjustments accordingly.

            With virtual consultations available at your convenience, shopping with us is easier than it's ever been. Whether you're looking to expand your existing wardrobe or just starting to get your feet wet in the realm of formal attire, Enzo Custom has all of your bases covered.

With all the options available in the clothing marketplace today, narrowing down exactly what you want in terms of personal style and what you need when it comes to functionality isn't always a streamlined process. As a customer, it's always better to be prepared a little too much than it is to go into the suit-buying process with blinders on.

Flexibility At Your Convenience: Appointments That Come To You

As you become accustomed to the ins and outs of formal wear over time, you'll likely understand that suits, tuxedos, and dress shirts have a wide variety of applications across a broad spectrum of settings that range from the everyday and routine to the special and exceptional. Whether your office dress code requires a jacket and tie throughout any given work week or you end up having to jet off to a wedding every so often, it's easy to come to the conclusion that having at least some assortment of formal wear in your wardrobe is a net positive.

            Although formal attire has retained its dominance in certain workplace settings and special occasions, it has slowly fallen by the wayside in terms of its practical use when it comes to so-called third places, and we're referring to social gathering spots outside the realm of the workplace and the home. Not long ago, standards of dress were commonplace in restaurants, private clubs, and even some music venues. While you're much less likely to encounter any sort of dress code when you show up to a restaurant in any given city these days, dress codes haven't completely disappeared. Depending on the type of establishment and the region in which it is located, you might be surprised to find out that your patronage could be refused for showing up in denim or even wearing the wrong type of shoes. 

            Some would argue that rigid dress codes outside of special occasions and the workplace are fussy, unnecessary, and anachronistic. Others say that it allows business owners to control the overall atmosphere inside their restaurant or establishment in order to heighten the dining experience. No matter how you feel about dress codes when it comes to restaurants, it's true that they haven't completely faded into obscurity. In this piece, we'll go over the finer points of when and where you might have to pay attention to what you're wearing before you decide to head out for a night on the town.

            It's no surprise that standards of dress can vary greatly by region, and this definitely carries over into whether restaurants in any given locale are more likely to take your business with open arms or send you home so you can put on slacks and a sport coat before returning. In practice, the majority of restaurant dress codes these days are treated more as guidelines rather than rules set in stone in all but the most upscale establishments, so bear in mind that you'll likely encounter a little bit of flexibility when it comes to standards of dress no matter where you are. However, our combined experience would tell us that certain regions are more likely to be a little more concerned with adhering to dress codes than others.

            Breaking it down by regions in the United States, you're significantly more likely to encounter dress codes in restaurants if you happen to be in a major metropolitan area in the northeast and certain portions of the south. Conversely, enforcement of any dress codes in the southwest is practically nonexistent, as this largely has to do with the temperature extremes the region experiences during the summer months. The same could be said for most of the mountain west and the Pacific coastal regions, with Los Angeles and San Francisco being notable exceptions, where older, more established restaurants still retain their dress codes that many others have abandoned. The general rule of thumb is that if you find yourself in a city with a vibrant solidified food culture such as Chicago, New Orleans, or New York, you're more likely to encounter a higher number of restaurants that will take their dress codes more seriously.

            Perhaps even more important than the locale you find yourself in is the type of establishment you're planning on visiting. Going above and beyond the ubiquitous "no shirt, no shoes, no service" standard, upscale eateries and top-rated restaurants may require something a little more formal from their patrons. Higher-end steakhouses, seafood restaurants that charge market price, and any establishment that's been able to build up a decades-long reputation of consistent high-quality service all are more likely to skew toward a more formal way of dress if they encourage or mandate a dress code. In practice, while most places with dress codes won't require you to show up in a full suit and tie, they might frown upon or have set rules against running shoes, denim, or shirts without a collar, for example.

            Aside from high-end restaurants that are open to the general public, dress codes are a frequent feature of private establishments and country clubs, with varying degrees of standards and enforcement. When it comes to country clubs and golf courses, their dress codes outlined in the fine print tend to cover way more potential infractions than what is enforced in practice. What seems to be more or less universal in this context, however, is the prohibition on denim and T-shirts, even when you're not actively using their facilities. Taking it a step further, some private clubs might have different standards of dress depending on whether you plan on playing golf or eating there, so if there are any doubts, your best bet in this situation is to call ahead. The good news is that private establishments such as golf courses skew their dress codes toward the informal, so eating there generally won't require anything more than a polo shirt and a pair of slacks under normal circumstances.

            Less commonly, you might still encounter dress codes in select locales when it comes to nightclubs and after-hours establishments, although in practice the dress codes implemented in these places tend to focus more on shoes than anything else, as a way to ensure the safety of their patrons rather than enforce a particular atmosphere or vibe. So long as you don't show up in flip-flops and pay the cover charge, you'll in all likelihood be granted entry. But there are a few holdouts in some cities that do still to this day encourage more formal mode of dress, so before you venture out for a given evening, it's best to do some preliminary research so you don't end up having to go home and end the night early.

            Restaurants these days that still implement some sort of dress code tend to overwhelmingly do so during evening dining hours as opposed to during the day. Historically this makes sense, since events held during the evening and nighttime hours have always had more formal expectations across the board than daytime gatherings. Depending on where you are, you may find that restaurants that open briefly for lunch and then close before they reopen for dinner implement a more formal dress code during the evening and have fewer, if any, requirements for the lunch crowd. As office dress codes have skewed more informal over the years, stumbling upon a restaurant during the day packed with nothing but people in suits and ties is certainly a rare sight these days. As a result, third places have accommodated this change by loosening their dress codes during normal working hours while retaining a higher standard of dress during the evening, when more people are willing to spruce up their attire.

            Just as time of day will have an effect on the dress codes of some establishments, time of year can also be of equal importance. As more people are encouraged to dress more formally when the weather outside is more conducive to wearing multiple layers, dress code enforcement tends to be followed more closely in the winter. In the summer months, the opposite is true. Showing up in only a dress shirt to a restaurant that requires a jacket on paper, for example, when the daytime temperature is unseasonably hot likely won't be enough for the establishment to turn you away. Of course these unspoken guidelines of etiquette and practicality aren't universal, so it's always best to exercise some judgment on your part. As a general rule, the more upscale or top-rated an establishment is, the more likely they will rigidly enforce a dress code, if there is one.

            Of the remaining restaurants that still enforce a dress code, the vast majority of them expect a standard of dress that is somewhere between semi-formal and the nicer side of casual in lieu of a coat and tie. While some gentlemen lament the disappearance of the more formal standards associated with the past, the benefit of less rigid dress codes in the present is that you have much greater leeway in terms of accentuating and elevating your own sense of personal style than you would otherwise have under a more stringent rule set. These days, it's much easier to forego a tie or wear something a little more colorful than it was even 20 years ago, so long as you keep your attire within a reasonable range of the level of formality expected by an establishment. If you have any doubts about whether or not a particular place requires its patrons to adhere to a dress code, it's best to call ahead and make sure or check the restaurant's website if they have one. So long as you do some research beforehand and exercise a little common sense, you probably won't run into any issues with any dress code discrepancies.

            No matter what your specific needs are in the realm of formal attire, Enzo Custom has you covered. Don't hesitate to make an appointment with us, as our expert clothiers will help you along in every step of the fitting process. If you feel more comfortable at home, you can also schedule a meeting with us via videoconference. 

Not long ago, standards of dress were commonplace in restaurants, private clubs, and even some music venues. While you're much less likely to encounter any sort of dress code when you show up to a restaurant in any given city these days, dress codes haven't completely disappeared. Depending on the type of establishment and the region in which it is located, you might be surprised to find out that your patronage could be refused for showing up in denim or even wearing the wrong type of shoes.

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