Black-tie events that require a tuxedo are prime opportunities for gentlemen to look their very best.  But what's the first thing that comes to mind when black-tie dress codes or tuxedos are mentioned?  For some it's good vibes, celebration, and James Bond swagger.  For others, it's dread, hassle, and inconvenience.  If you happen to fall into the more pessimistic category, we're confident that we can change your mind by the time you're done reading this piece.

            Unlike many other fashion trends that come and go, the tuxedo—along with the black-tie dress codes that evolved from it—has been a stable staple of gentlemen's formal fashion for over a century.  And just like many old brick and stone buildings still standing today, the tuxedo will probably remain a foundation of fashion for another hundred years.  So if the tuxedo is so ubiquitous in the context of formal events, what is it about the tuxedo that generates so many mixed feelings when the time comes to actually put one on?

            One of the biggest complaints about tuxedos is the lack of comfort they provide compared to custom suits that generally require fewer components and accessories.  While this assumption is certainly not true across the board, tuxedos have, in many ways, earned their occasionally constricting reputation.  As tuxedos are normally worn with suspenders, cummerbunds, waistcoats, and shirts with more snug collar measurements, there are more potential pressure points on a black-tie ensemble that can cause discomfort compared to formal wear that only requires a jacket and a belt, for example.

            But even with these added points of possible discomfort, tuxedos still have the ability to be as comfortable as everyday casual attire.  In this piece, we'll go over some tips and tricks to keep you comfortable in your tuxedo, even in the face of seemingly insurmountable challenges that black-tie accessories can bring to the table.

            Before we delve into the specific comfort issues that can arise from tuxedos, it's helpful to briefly rehash the tuxedo's components to gain a better understanding of what can go wrong.  For the sake of simplicity, we'll start from the bottom up.

            A tuxedo wouldn't be complete without the very things that keep you on steady ground, and in most cases these would be a pair of patent leather shoes, normally worn with a pair of black socks.

            From there going up, tuxedo pants differ slightly from trousers worn with a suit.  Normally they will have a satin stripe going down the sides of each pant leg, closely matching the color of the actual trousers, which in most cases will be black.  In lieu of belt loops, tuxedo pants will have buttons on the inside of the waist so braces—or suspenders as they are more commonly known—can be attached for additional support.

            As a matter of preference, some gentlemen choose to forego suspenders and instead opt for a cummerbund or waistcoat.  While waistcoats can be worn with suspenders so long as the waistcoat is worn over them, it's generally discouraged to wear suspenders with a cummerbund not only from a style standpoint but also from a practical one.  Cummerbunds can provide additional trouser support while simultaneously concealing the bottom part of the shirt placket, so wearing both at the same time is deemed unnecessary.  The less bendable rule, however, applies to cummerbunds and waistcoats; they should never be worn together, as they both share the same aesthetic purpose even though their practical ones are different.

            Tuxedo shirts vary from normal dress shirts worn with suits.  The shirt placket may have pleats and is normally fastened with studs rather than buttons, with the exception of the very top button at the collar and the bottom buttons meant to be tucked into the tuxedo pants or shielded by a cummerbund or waistcoat.  The shirt cuffs are also meant to be fastened with cufflinks rather than buttons to provide aesthetic symmetry between the shirt placket and cuffs.  Studs and cufflinks worn with tuxedo shirts are normally sold as a set and will have nearly identical designs, save the slightly larger size for the cufflinks.  Traditionally, tuxedo shirts come equipped with wingtip collars, although standard and spread collars are slowly becoming more common and acceptable for black-tie affairs.

            One of the most recognizable tuxedo components is the bow tie, and it's normally one of the first things people notice when they differentiate between a suit and a tuxedo.  For many, this component is perhaps the most difficult to master when it comes to the tuxedo, and when it's not properly sized or tied, can be a potential point of discomfort for some people.

            The dinner jacket, or tuxedo jacket, is usually going to come equipped with satin lapels in order to match the satin stripes on the tuxedo trousers.  The jacket may have one vent or no vent at all and should exactly match the color of the trousers.

            Although pocket squares are optional, they can be useful tools to accentuate and elevate the uniform style of a traditional black tuxedo.  Lapel pins can also be used for the same purpose, but we would advise against wearing any pins that are too large or conspicuous.  As far as lapel pins go, if you choose to wear one at all, less is always certainly more.

            All of the above aforementioned tuxedo components—with the exception of pocket squares and lapel pins—have the potential to be points of discomfort on any given black-tie ensemble.  Over-starched shirts can cause itchiness, waistcoats can cause a tuxedo to feel too bunchy, and a bow tie that's not adjusted properly can make a collar feel particularly constricting.  More importantly, however, comfort has less to do with individual components and more to do with how each component was measured and how they all fit together collectively.  When it comes to tuxedos, correct measurements and proper tailoring supersede everything else.  While exact measurements are vital for custom suits, they are even more so for tuxedos as they have more components and, therefore, more things that can go wrong.

            Most gentlemen will agree that custom suits tailored to their specific body dimensions will be more comfortable than suits and tuxedos purchased off the rack from a department store.  In theory, a tux that's measured and tailored properly should not be uncomfortable to wear.  This is why here at Enzo Custom, we cannot stress enough the importance of getting properly fitted, as it is the number-one factor that will determine a person's comfort level in any given custom suit or tuxedo.

            Unfortunately, even if your tuxedo was properly measured to your dimensions when you purchased it, the overall comfort of your tuxedo may change as your measurements do, especially over longer periods of time.  While quick adjustments from a tailor can remedy any glaring issues with discomfort, some fixes can be done much more easily, and this is a very good thing to keep in mind if time is of the essence.

            Patent leather shoes aren't exactly known for their superior comfort level.  While this varies between brands and manufacturers, the leather tends to be less flexible than it is on other types of dress shoes.  If it feels like the inner parts of your shoes are digging into your heels or causing too much friction on the tops of your feet, you may want to go up a size or wear a thicker pair of socks to reduce the chances you'll end up with blisters after a long night at a wedding or black-tie dinner.  Another fix for uncomfortable shoes involves a little bit of prevention rather than a cure.  Once you get a pair of patent leather shoes, you might want to try wearing them a few times before you need them for a black-tie outing, as this will help to break them in a bit in spite of their noticeable rigidity.  You'll also be able to judge their comfort level and adjust your sock thickness accordingly.

            When done correctly, a bow tie really does bring a tuxedo full circle.  But bow ties can also cause issues with both comfort and patience, as getting it just right isn't always a walk in the park.  If your collar is too big, it's close to impossible to get a bow tie to stay in its place without looking awkward or a little off.  Conversely, if your collar is too tight, you'll probably have to go tighter on your bow tie as well so it doesn't sag below the neckline and leave the very top button of your shirt visible.  In the case of bow ties and collars, proper measurements are vital in order to achieve maximum comfort.  However, if the discrepancy between your actual neck measurements and your shirt collar aren't too drastic, the adjustable feature on most bow ties sold today just might save your outfit.  It will take some trial and error on your part as you'll need to balance the symmetry of your bow tie with your desired comfort level, but in most cases you'll be able to find a happy medium between those two considerations without compromising style.  Just try not to put on your bow tie at the very last minute, as it's always a good habit to leave extra time for a tuxedo's more stubborn components.

            While tuxedo shirts will afford you more leeway in terms of slight size discrepancies, it's still best to find a shirt that fits your body type as closely as possible to avoid any bunching or comfort issues.  But aside from fitting problems, dress shirts, in particular those meant for tuxedos, can cause another common issue unrelated to fitting.  Dress shirts, especially if they're starched too heavily, can feel abrasive on the skin, and this is more likely to occur the longer they are worn on a given day.  If you're skin is particularly sensitive, your best options are to either go a little easier on the starch or simply wear an undershirt, as this will minimize any direct contact your skin has with your dress shirt.  As an added bonus, your dress shirts will end up lasting longer. Undershirts are able to pull away moisture from your body while at the same time isolating that moisture from your more expensive garments.

             Sometimes tuxedos can feel a bit uncomfortable even if you are unable to narrow down the source of the discomfort to one component in particular.  In such a case, in order to alleviate that heavy feeling, your best bet here is to wear your tuxedo with fewer components.  In lieu of a waistcoat, consider a cummerbund or wearing your tuxedo bare.  If you choose the latter route, we still recommend wearing suspenders with a bare tuxedo, as this will provide additional support for your trousers.

            Whether you're looking for a brand new custom tuxedo or just need to accessorize the one you already have, Enzo Custom has you covered.  Make an appointment with us today and our clothiers will be more than happy to get you started with the fitting process in one of our showrooms.  If you feel more comfortable at home, you can also hold your appointment with us via videoconference.

Black-tie events that require a tuxedo are prime opportunities for gentlemen to look their very best.

Tips And Tricks For Making Your Tuxedo More Comfortable

            A collection of clean, stylish dress shirts is always a must-have for any gentleman's wardrobe, and there are several ways to properly maintain that desired crisp, clean appearance.

            The most basic form of maintenance involves hanging up your suits and dress shirts properly after each use, as routinely doing this will help minimize wrinkles and keep your formal wear more protected from the elements such as dust and accidental spills.  As tempting as it may be after some of those more stressful workdays to merely toss your formal wear onto an empty chair, hanging everything up in its proper place will prolong the lifespan of your trousers, jackets, and shirts.

            Just as it is necessary for any other articles of clothing, routine cleaning must also be done.  While it's not usually recommended to launder your suits at home, you can sometimes get away with this for your dress shirts, depending on the material and how often you feel like breaking out that ironing board.  By and large, however, most gentlemen prefer to use a dry cleaning service due to convenience, consistency, quality assurance, and other perks that might be thrown in with the service.  To go a little further in keeping your dress shirts in pristine condition, starching is a great way to do this, and this optional extra is pretty much universally adopted by dry cleaners across the globe.

--Starching: A More Thorough Examination--

            Whether we love it or hate it, we all have a general understanding of what starch is and what it does.  While some might say that starch keeps dress shirts bright and wrinkle-free, others find the substance to be too constricting and uncomfortable on the skin.  Depending on personal experience, too much starch can turn some gentlemen away from using it altogether, while too little won't bring about the desired effects it's supposed to have.  Just like anything, it's all about finding that proper balance tailored to your personal preferences, but before we get into the pros and cons of starching your dress shirts, it's good to have a more comprehensive understanding of what starch really is and how it works.

            Unlike many other household cleaners, laundry products, and chemicals, starch is aptly named for what it actually is.  Starch, as its name implies, is normally made from rice, corn, potato, or wheat, the very same starches that are integral to the human diet.  Today, for its applications in clothing, it is normally sold in spray bottles or aerosol cans so the user can better control the amount that is applied to any given garment.  In decades past, however, the starching process wasn't quite as precise, which is perhaps why even to this day many people prefer to shy away from it.  Instead of being sold in spray bottles or cans, the starch was mixed with water in vats so clothes could be easily dipped into the mixture.  While this older process was quick and effective, the starch was often too heavy, resulting in too much rigidity and discomfort.  This method has been all but abandoned, since most dry cleaners today will give you the option of light, medium, or heavy starching that is possible with the current, more adjustable methods of application.

            While we most often associate starch with its abilities to provide dress shirts with a stiffer, cleaner look, it has a hidden, more practical use as well.  It is unclear exactly when the process of starching was invented, but we do know that it became more common around the 16th century, when its practitioners understood that a layer of starch could be very good at creating a sort of invisible buffer between one's clothes and the elements.  Rather than soiling the fabric directly, dirt, dust, liquid, and other debris would stick only to the starch, thereby making the laundering process easier and extending a garment's longevity.  Just as cooking starch acts as an effective binding agent, the same can be said for laundry starch, as it not only provides a more rigid structure but also a shielding layer that is able to trap debris before it becomes embedded directly into your clothes.

            In spite of these positive attributes, the use of heavy starching has gradually waned in popularity over the last two decades as more gentlemen emphasize comfort over aesthetic considerations.  Even so, it's still possible to strike a balance between the benefits of starching and its potential drawbacks, simply by using less of it.  Opting for a light or medium layer of starch will boost your dress shirt's structural rigidity and provide adequate protection from the elements without feeling too stiff or constricting.  To go a step further, rather than starching your entire shirt, you might want to starch only the parts of it that normally require that extra stiffness, such as collars, cuffs, and front plackets if comfort is one of your main concerns.

            Since we've lightly touched on some of the benefits of starching, we should also explain some of the drawbacks before we delve into additional positives that starching can provide.

            When it comes to starching, the fabric of your dress shirt matters above all else.  Starch will work best on natural materials such as 100 percent cotton, certain cotton blends, and linen.  The composition of these fabrics allows starch to bind very easily to the fibers, thereby providing rigidity and protection.  There are some materials, however, that starch doesn't bind to very well at all.  Polyester, polyester blends, and other synthetic materials should be avoided, as the starch really has nowhere to go except down to the ground.  Since starch won't hold or bind to these materials, using starch on them can give your synthetic shirts a flaky, unkempt appearance, which is the exact opposite of what starch was designed to do in the first place.  It's also best to avoid using starch on anything made of wool, as wool is very good at drawing away moisture from anything that is applied to it, leaving you with a similar problem (albeit through a different mechanism) that you would encounter by starching synthetic fabrics.

            There's a good reason why starch is most often associated with your standard white dress shirts, as these are the types of garments on which starch works best.  This is because laundry starch happens to have the same color composition as those bright white dress shirts ubiquitous in formal wear.  Unfortunately, this limits the practical uses of laundry starch as applied to darker colors.  When starch is used on black, navy blue, or dark burgundy dress shirts, the result is that these dress shirts will appear to have a thin layer of film on them, which obviously detracts from any aesthetic benefits that starch would otherwise have on lighter colors.  On the upside, darker colors tend to better hide unwanted creases or imperfections in the fabric, so the need to use starch on your darker dress shirts is less of a concern to begin with anyway.

            When properly applied, the presence of starch shouldn't be obvious to any onlookers.  Sometimes, however, dry cleaners and gentlemen who prefer to do their starching at home can get a little carried away with how much they use.  Applying too much starch to a dress shirt will on occasion cause it to project too much of a reflective shine, taking the desired glossiness of a starched shirt to undesirable extremes.  In order to mitigate this unwanted effect, you're better off starting with a small amount of starch and slowly adding more until you're satisfied with how it looks and how it feels, as it is much easier to add more starch than it is to take away too much once it's applied.

            One of the biggest drawbacks to starching your dress shirts is the perceived discomfort and itchiness it can cause.  While starch itself is harmless, it is sometimes associated with being a chemical irritant, since it is most often applied in the context of a dry cleaning service, which does use chemicals and solvents to launder clothes.  Because starch is made from natural materials, it's almost never the starch itself that causes the irritation.  Rather, it's the structural rigidity it provides that can make a person uncomfortable.  The stiffer frame of a starched dress shirt can make your movements feel less fluid than normal and cause unwanted friction between your skin and clothes, thereby causing mild irritation.  To prevent this, simply use less starch, or consider wearing an undershirt when a heavier application of starch is warranted.

            So long as you use starch on your dress shirts when it is appropriate and don't go overboard with the amount, the benefits will normally outweigh the drawbacks.

            Starched shirts are less prone to wrinkling throughout the day thanks to the added structural integrity that a layer of starch can provide.  As a result, your shirts will stay looking crisper, cleaner, and brighter for much longer than a shirt that's been laundered only.

            This added layer also acts as a barrier between your clothes and the outside elements.  Say you're driving to work, and you accidentally spill some coffee onto your pristine white dress shirt.  Without starch, that coffee stain is likely going to stay there all day.  If you spill that same amount of coffee onto a starched shirt, it's much easier to rub off so long as you take care of it rather quickly before it has a chance to seep into the underlying fabric.

            If you're the type of gentleman who prefers to iron your shirts at home, the added benefit of starching your dress shirts is that this process becomes much easier and less time consuming.  Given the added structural rigidity starch provides, you won't have as many unwanted creases to iron over at the end of the day compared to a shirt that hasn't been starched at all.

            As it goes with most things related to fashion, whether or not to starch your shirts—and to what degree—is going to be a matter of personal preference.  If you're still unsure about what is best for your own collection of Enzo Custom formal wear, there's no harm in taking part in a little bit of trial and error the next time you drop off your shirts at the cleaners or launder them at home.

A collection of clean, stylish dress shirts is always a must-have for any gentleman's wardrobe, and there are several ways to properly maintain that desired crisp, clean appearance.

Pros And Cons Of Starching Your Dress Shirts

Picture yourself getting suited up in your finest formal wear for a typical day at work or a night on the town.  The sun is shining and the weather outlook seems perfect for the near future.  Suddenly, on your way to wherever you're headed, a cold front blows in and it starts to rain, completely ruining or, dare we say it, dampening not only your plans but also your outfit.  It's a common problem that we've all encountered from time to time, since preparing for such inclement weather isn't always practical or convenient.  Umbrellas can be burdensome to carry around and raincoats, in spite of drastic style improvements over the years, can very easily throw off that perfect look you were setting out to achieve.

            Unless you happen to be a marine biologist, no one deliberately shows up to work in a wet suit.  This generally isn't a problem for those of us who rely on our own modes of enclosed transportation to get to where we're going, since we're shielded door to door from the elements that could potentially gunk up our formal attire.  On the other hand, those of us who might prefer to walk or bike to work need to keep a little more preparedness in the back of our minds, even for short distances.

            One seemingly simple method could allow you to avoid any and all concerns about weather or inattentive drivers sloshing through puddles near intersections and crosswalks, and motorcyclists on their way to work have been using this ingenious idea forever.  All you have to do is change into your formal wear when you arrive at the office rather than get yourself ready before you walk out your front door.  The drawback though, is that you would have to leave earlier, and not all of us are on board with setting our alarms 30 minutes before we really need to.

            In this piece, we'll go over some of the ways in which you can protect your formal wear from the elements during your commute, without resorting to any drastic or sleep-depriving measures.

            Perhaps the most obvious example of protecting your formal wear from inclement weather is outerwear.  Depending on what your regional weather patterns call for, outerwear can range from very lightweight and comfortable to heavy and insulated.  Other than protecting your inner formal wear from the outer elements, garments such as overcoats can offer several benefits and advantages.

            If you're the type of person who's not too keen on carrying briefcases or backpacks, overcoats offer extra pocket space.  While you certainly won't be able to stuff your laptop or bulky chargers into it, you should have plenty of room for an extra phone or two, a tablet, pens, and any small amounts of paperwork you need to bring with you.  In addition to the extra space, overcoats can protect your important small electronics from the elements just as they protect your formal wear from snow, rain, and ice, depending on how well they're lined and insulated.

            When you shop with Enzo Custom, our overcoats are easily customizable to your specific needs, including the outer shell material, length, and pocket design.  By turning a standard overcoat blueprint into a jacket that can function as a raincoat, you won't need to worry about any style mismatches that you might encounter by opting for a raincoat off the rack from elsewhere, since our clothiers will be able to give you pointers on which colors and materials will pair best with your given selection of formal wear.

--Proper Measurements, and Why They Matter In Wet Conditions--

            When it comes to custom suits, we can't stress enough the importance of proper measurements not only for comfort but also maximizing personal style.  Proper measurements also have more utilitarian applications, especially when outside conditions are less than favorable.

            When it rains or you encounter wet conditions outside on the ground, the measurements of your jacket aren't of any particular consequence, but the proper dimensions of your trousers can go a long way in minimizing any potential damage you might come across.  When your trousers are properly tailored to your body dimensions, you're less likely to step on them inadvertently or fray them; rainy conditions unfortunately can accelerate this slow and almost unnoticeable process under normal circumstances.  There's nothing worse than coming home after a day's work only to realize that your trouser cuffs are soaked from sidewalk puddles and frayed from the small amount of friction generated by your shoes.

            At Enzo Custom, our clothiers take extra care in ensuring you get properly measured, and this will minimize the chances of any inadvertent damage to your formal wear when you're out and about.  It's not something that most people consciously think about, but ensuring that your formal wear correctly matches your body dimensions will go a long way in preserving the longevity and stability of your garments.

            Short of personal political leanings or the best condiment to put on a hot dog, umbrellas can create a lot of ambivalence and divisive opinions.  Some people swear by them while others would rather jump into an unheated swimming pool in December before they would ever consider using one.  So let's start with the drawbacks.

            Depending on the manufacturing quality, umbrellas have carried the reputation of being functionally useless on windy days, and this reputation is well deserved.  It's not uncommon to see people on their way to and from work engaging in some sort of wrestling match with their umbrellas once they've turned inside out from blustery conditions.  If you're not too keen on having to play tug-of-war with inanimate objects, your best bet might be opting for a rain poncho or raincoat to keep your formal wear dry.

            Umbrellas also tend to take up a lot of room, whether they're collapsed or open.  Drying out umbrellas in front of doorways isn't always convenient or practical, and many of them are too long to fit inside most briefcases and computer bags.

            On the plus side, umbrellas don't require you to alter your personal style in any significant way.  Simply hold it over your head when it's raining and collapse it once you're inside.  As useful as raincoats are, they can sometimes cause a dripping mess if you don't have anywhere convenient to hang them up to dry.  Another added benefit to umbrellas is that they're not all designed the same way.  Some use a thicker canvas to offer more protection against wind, while others offer a unique compact and collapsible design to make them less cumbersome and more portable.  Some designs are even compact enough to slip into an overcoat side pocket when the umbrella is not in use.  In any event, whether you love them or hate them, it's always a good idea to keep a spare one in your car or bag just in case.  Better yet, if you have the room, keep both a raincoat and an umbrella handy, and you'll have that extra cheap insurance to know that your formal wear won't turn into a soggy mess by the time you step into the office.

--Special Considerations for Suede Jackets--

            While full suede suits are less common than ones made from wool or linen, suede jackets and sport coats abound.  As attractive and comfortable as they are, suede is particularly susceptible to damage from moisture and wet conditions.  Although rain and snow cause the most immediate problems for suede material, even heavy fog can sometimes cause issues if the water saturation in the air is too high.

            Unlike standard leather, suede fabric is made from the inside of the animal hide, which gives the material that typical soft, velvety texture.  Unfortunately, when the leather hairs of a suede jacket get wet, they can quickly become very brittle and break off, thereby ruining the appearance and structural integrity of the material.  Incidental moisture generally doesn't cause any problems, but anything more than a drizzle outside and you could be looking at a jacket or overcoat that is now irreparable.

            The first line of defense in protecting your suede accessories and formal wear is to simply leave them at home if there's rain or snow in the forecast.  Suits and jackets made from other material such as wool, wool/cotton blends, or linen might not look particularly good when they do get wet, but the "damage" is only cosmetic and temporary.  Suede is much less durable than your typical suit material, and as a result of that lessened durability, lots of damage can be done in a very short amount of time.  If you insist on rolling the dice by wearing suede when there might be rain or snow in the near future, umbrellas and raincoats will come in handy here.

            In the event that your suede jacket does get wet, there is a way to mitigate the damage done so long as you act quickly.  First, you'll want to blot the material with a microfiber cloth to remove as much excess moisture as possible.  Once that is done, use a hairdryer and a brush with soft bristles to brush the suede in the direction of the grain.  Even an unopened toothbrush will do.  Just make sure that the hairdryer isn't too close to the fabric, as too much heat can cause additional damage.  When done correctly, this will prevent the suede from becoming brittle from the moisture.  Once the suede is dry, brush in the direction of the grain again to smooth out the texture.

            Whether you're looking to add more tailored suits to your wardrobe or need a custom overcoat to protect you from the rain and outdoor elements, Enzo Custom has you covered.  Stop into one of our showrooms today or make an appointment with one of our clothiers via videoconference.

It's a common problem that we've all encountered from time to time, since preparing for such inclement weather isn't always practical or convenient.  Umbrellas can be burdensome to carry around and raincoats, in spite of drastic style improvements over the years, can very easily throw off that perfect look you were setting out to achieve.

Keeping Your Formal Wear Out Of The Rain and Other Inclement Weather

In the last couple of years, it's been a bit of a challenge to navigate many aspects of the New Normal, including the perks and pitfalls of remote work, proper videoconference etiquette, and significant adjustments to in-office dress codes that have trended more casual as of late.  But of course, as with most things fashion-related, trends tend to ebb and flow, and the uncertainty lies not in whether they change or stay the course, but when they do or do not.  As more offices across the globe are reopening and slowly getting back into the normal swing of things, it's very likely that we'll see a resurgence of interest in formal wear that has tapered off noticeably up to this point in time.

            While it might be difficult for some professionals to put aside many of the comforts they've grown accustomed to as a result of the explosion of remote work opportunities, many others are welcoming the potential return to more formal dress codes in professional spheres.  The caveat going forward, however, is that overall we will see more emphasis placed on comfort and functionality above other, more aesthetic considerations.

            Although no one has a crystal ball that allows us to see into the future with absolute certainty, tipping the scales toward comfort and utility does fall in line with the long-term trends toward minimalism in lieu of the overly elaborate.  In the realm of black-tie affairs that require a tuxedo, it's much more common these days to see classic or standard collars more often than the traditional wingtip style than it was 20 or even 10 years ago.  It's a subtle change, but it's definitely one that stands out.  Also more common is the absence of the once-ubiquitous cummerbund.  Not long ago, wearing a tuxedo bare was unthinkable, until of course the trend gained some steam behind it.

            What we do know with absolute certainty is that fashion trends are constantly evolving, and what we hope to do in this article is give you at least a glimpse of what might be in store for the upcoming year.

            In one of our previous installments, we covered the basics of the most common suit styles available within the realm of gentlemen's formal wear.  In general, most suits offered on the market today will fall into three distinct categories, those being British, American, and Italian.  However, there is a fourth type that is emerging—sometimes referred to as a Global suit style—that blends elements commonly found in British and Italian styles while omitting many features of their American counterparts.  While the details of this new Global style are not yet well defined, given its novelty and resulting uncharted territory, it certainly has the potential to match or even surpass its parent British and Italian fashion sensibilities at some point in the future.

            As cultures across the world now have the ability to communicate information with each other at extraordinarily rapid levels not seen in the previous century, one of the unintended positive consequences of this near-instantaneous communication is the exchange of mores and ideas related to fashion.  While this information exchange first began with the increase in business travel among professional spheres, improvements in Internet bandwidth and the resulting superior communication quality greatly accelerated the speed at which ideas—about fashion or otherwise—could be shared.  While some trends in the previous century could have taken years or even decades to gain traction, trends in the new era sometimes seem to evolve faster than they can spread; hence the emerging Global suit style, as everyone is able to more easily connect with the world at large in spite of physical and geographic limitations.

            In contrast to British, Italian, and American suits, all of which have relatively clear defining features, the finer points surrounding the emerging Global suit style are a little foggy, since we're still in the midst of this particular style's infancy.  What we do know about this emerging style, given the limited amount of information at our disposal, is that it tends to favor the contoured appearance of the Italian-style suit while still preserving the more practical concerns normally found in suits made with the British style in mind.  Think extra pocket space for all those electronic devices we carry around with us, without extra or unnecessary padding in the suit's overall structure or detracting from a very refined, tailored appearance.  As more people gravitate toward custom tailors and shy away from off-the-rack suit options, many suits worn today don't always exactly fit into the neat little boxes that the three main suit styles provide thanks to the plethora of customization options available.  By the same token, the increased emphasis on custom tailoring is the driving force behind the Global suit style, as customers can now much more easily obtain what they want out of their formal wear without having to settle or compromise on features that they don't want or need.  It just so happens that many gentlemen seek to balance comfort with style as best they can, and going forward the emerging Global suit style will likely fulfill that happy medium.

            If there's one side of formal wear that hasn't changed much, it's definitely the black-tie dress code and its associated classic tuxedo, and we don't really anticipate black-tie affairs undergoing any drastic changes in the near or distant future.  We have noticed, however, some deviations from the subtler style considerations that were once taken for granted.

            In previous years, many gentlemen preferred to opt for a vest in lieu of a cummerbund (since both should never be worn together), as the former provided a more slimming look and many swore by the waistcoat's superiority in comfort.  More recently, there's been a trend to wear tuxedos bare, which refers to the practice of foregoing cummerbunds and waistcoats altogether.  While this particular style is gaining more acceptance and will likely continue to do so in the coming years, its adoption is far from universal.  Sporting a tuxedo in this way tends to work best when your tuxedo has no fitting problems, as a jacket that's too small for your current dimensions could expose the bottom part of your shirt placket, thereby defeating the purpose of wearing a tuxedo in the first place.  By far, the greatest benefit to wearing a tuxedo bare is the added comfort and movement that is less constrained.  If you go this route, just be sure that your tuxedo is properly tailored to your dimensions, otherwise any style benefits of doing this will evaporate.

            In any case, we would recommend that you wear suspenders with a bare tuxedo, since it's always a good idea to have that extra trouser support when a cummerbund isn't there to pick up the slack.

            In traditional black-tie attire, a shirt with a wingtip collar was generally preferred.  Lately, this is becoming less common, as more tuxedo shirts are offered with a standard collar.  The benefit to a standard collar is that you'll probably have a greater margin of error with your bow tie, since the back of it will remain out of sight and protected from any potential snags.  You could even get away with wearing a necktie with a standard collar (never do this with a wingtip collar), but we would only suggest doing this for black-tie optional events.  For strictly black-tie engagements, the bow tie is preferred, and we would recommend that you always tie it yourself.  Expectedly, trends in black-tie dress codes tend to change the slowest, and for 2022 along with the years following it, we can safely say that the tuxedo will remain the same; the exception of course being the way in which some gentlemen prefer to wear it.

            Getting away from the realm of black-tie dress codes, neckties may see a welcome resurgence in 2022 when more people start heading back into the office as the world recovers from the Coronavirus pandemic.  When it comes to neckties, trends tend to ebb and flow every decade or so, with skinny ties and wider ties alternating in popularity.  Whether you want to emulate a look that's in vogue or more traditional doesn't matter so much as the way in which you can successfully pull it off from a style standpoint.  Neckties tend to be most effective when they're proportional to the lapel sizes on your jacket, so if you're the type of person who likes to keep a variety of suits on hand at any given time, it's best to keep a variety of ties of different widths in your wardrobe as well.  Regardless of tie width, there seems to be greater emphasis on tie symmetry these days, so in lieu of a traditional four-in-hand knot (which also happens to be the easiest to tie), go with a Half Windsor, Full Windsor, or St. Andrew knot if you want to establish a sleeker, more uniform appearance.

            While we don't always know with absolute certainty what the future holds when it comes to burgeoning fashion trends or ones that might wane unexpectedly, our expert clothiers at Enzo Custom can help you stay ahead of the curve going into 2022.  Our combined decades of experience and limitless options for customization will allow you to select a suit for your wardrobe that you can truly call your own.  When you're ready to make that leap into the New Year with us, don't hesitate to call and schedule an appointment at one of our showrooms.  If you feel more comfortable at home, our clothiers will be more than happy to get you started via videoconference.

While it might be difficult for some professionals to put aside many of the comforts they've grown accustomed to as a result of the explosion of remote work opportunities, many others are welcoming the potential return to more formal dress codes in professional spheres.  The caveat going forward, however, is that overall we will see more emphasis placed on comfort and functionality above other, more aesthetic considerations.

Upcoming Style Trends For 2022

By now, if you've been keeping up with our blog, you might think you have a pretty good grasp on everything you need to know when it comes to custom suits and formal wear.  But even with such a comprehensive breadth of information, we still do our best to bring something new to the table as often as possible.

            When most of us venture out—or browse online—in the pursuit of acquiring more formal wear, there are many different things we all pay close attention to, whether it's the patterns on a given necktie or the thread count on a brand-new wool suit jacket.  In one of our previous installments, we gave you the rundown on the different trouser waistband types and the benefits of each.  While trousers might seem simple enough for gentlemen to not really give them a second thought, there is so much more to a pair of pants than what meets the eye at first glance.  Beyond the typical things gentlemen look for in a pair of trousers such as waistbands, length, and waist size, there are other finer points in both style and functionality that can make quite a bit of difference in how a given pair of pants looks and feels.

            While many trousers look the same on the surface, there are subtleties that can either complement or detract from an outfit's overall formal appearance.  The same goes for pants that might be needed in more casual contexts.  For example, you wouldn't wear suit pants on the golf course, just as you wouldn't wear khakis to a black-tie dinner.  The aforementioned differences are obvious, but what about pleats, creases, cuffs, or stripes?  In this article, we'll seek to refine these details in a way that makes sense in the context of style and comfort without needing to resort to anything seemingly out of the ordinary.  As it's been said many times before, the devil is in the details.

            Aside from aesthetic considerations, pleats serve the main function of providing extra room toward the top portion of a pair of trousers. Pleats also allow a pair of trousers to collapse more easily when they're not in use, or more succinctly, when they're not being worn and hanging up in a closet or folded in a dresser drawer. 

            Generally, trousers meant to be worn alone or with a suit come with a flat front (no pleats), one pleat, or two pleats.  Many gentlemen prefer flat front trousers due to their streamlined sleek appearance, and this type is sometimes ideal for men with slender body types, as they don't need as much room in their trousers toward the waistline.  The flat front style is best for trousers worn at or slightly below the waistline, and while this eliminates any bagginess from a style perspective, they do have one possible drawback.  With flat front trousers, your pocket space might be limited, so always keep this in mind when you set out to balance functionality with style.

            Pleated pants, whether they have one or two, tend to be best for gentlemen who prefer to wear their trousers a little higher.  British-style suits tend to take advantage of this style consideration, and pleats can also add a bit of old-world charm compared to the modern aesthetics of Italian-style and the emerging global-style suits popular in both workplace and formal settings outside the office.  While the extra room afforded in pleated pants is an attractive bonus, the one drawback is that they have the propensity to bunch up from time to time, causing an uneven appearance.  This can be avoided, however, with proper measurements and tailoring.  When you shop with us at Enzo Custom, our clothiers will help you determine what's best for your particular body dimensions if you're on the fence about pleats or flat fronts.  As with many things fashion-related, it's ultimately a personal judgment call based on balancing style with comfort and functional considerations.

            One thing to keep in mind about trouser pleats is that gentlemen often confuse them with creases.  While pleats do form creases, considering how they're stitched into the fabric, they are not one in the same.  Creases, unlike pleats, will form naturally on any given pair of pants—pleats or not—depending on how they are folded or put away.  While creases do not serve the same functional purposes that pleats do, they still offer a sense of style sharpness that many gentlemen go out of their way to achieve.  In the context of formal wear, a crease that is present on a pair of trousers can signify an elevated sense of formality when it's done correctly.  Most formal suit trousers will come with a crease ironed into them, showing itself as a fine line breaking through the front of the trouser fabric on each leg toward the bottom, separate from the lines toward the top of a pair of trousers delineating any pleats that may be present.  With everyday use, these creases can become less prominent over time, diminishing a pair of trousers' overall formality.

            Thankfully, there's an easy fix for keeping your trouser creases well maintained.  All you have to do is iron your pants periodically, following the same lines that originally were present when you bought them.  Many dry cleaning establishments will include ironing as part of its services, sometimes for a small additional fee.  In lieu of going to a dry cleaner, many gentlemen opt to do this themselves, as it requires nothing more than a flat surface—preferably an ironing board—and an iron.  If you want to maintain trouser creases yourself, we would recommend using a steam iron rather than a dry iron; you'll be less likely to damage your clothes in case the phone rings or someone knocks on your door, as dry irons can cause permanent burns if they're unattended and resting on your clothes for too long.  Another helpful piece of advice in maintaining trouser creases is to hang them up after each use.  By doing so, your trousers will require less ironing and pressing to keep them looking pristine, thereby saving you time.

            What stripes lack in terms of functionality is compensated by their ability to accentuate personal style without having to rely on any extra bells and whistles.  In many cases, striped patterns woven into the trouser fabric are so subtle that they might go unnoticed to the untrained eye, even though the desired effect is still achieved.  When it comes to striped patterns for suit jackets and trousers, the mantra holds that less is more, which is why pinstripes have remained such a popular choice in formal wear.  There are exceptions, but larger stripes have the tendency to detract from the overall formality of a given outfit as opposed to pinstripes, herringbone, or houndstooth patterns.  No matter what striped patterns you choose for your own personal style, just make sure that your trousers match your jacket if you're settling on a full suit.  If you're opting for a more casual look and decide to go with a sport coat instead, keep any patterns to either your trousers or your jacket, not both, as mismatched patterns, even if they're subtle, tend to look too busy.

            By and large, many gentlemen prefer to reserve pinstriped patterns for flat front trousers rather than pleated ones.  The uniform lines can provide an extra boost to the sleekness and symmetry of your formal attire, especially with a subtle color contrast provided by alternating charcoal and neutral greys.  If you opt for pleated trousers, stripes can work, but we would caution you against going with anything too elaborate.  In this case, striped patterns might draw unwanted attention toward the folds in the pleats and cause your formal wear to look slightly off or asymmetrical.  Even with this slight concern, a skilled tailor will be able to mitigate this potential problem with proper measurements and stitching.

            Even though cuffed trousers still remain a staple of men's formal wear, their popularity has waned a bit over the years.  But even when classics go out of style from time to time, they never quite disappear completely, and in many cases they tend to make strong comebacks when they reemerge.

            Aside from providing a classic, traditional look, cuffed trousers come with more material, which can provide a buffer against unforeseen circumstances related to mishaps and wear and tear.  While it's true that cuffed pants are more vulnerable to fraying as they tend to drape lower than their cuffless counterparts, you'll have more material to work with when something does go wrong with the fabric.  If you tend to like the look of trousers with two pleats, cuffs are also very good at complementing the extra surface area that double-pleated pants provide.

            The major drawback encountered with cuffed trousers in the context of formal wear is that they can sometimes make an outfit appear to be less formal.  This is one of the main reasons why you'll never see cuffs on a pair of tuxedo pants.  Even so, cuffs can sometimes work well from a style standpoint, especially for gentlemen of taller builds, as they provide a softer balance and evenness to a person's evening ensemble.

            Whether you're an expert in the nuances of formal wear or just getting acquainted with all the different style considerations that go into custom suits, jackets, and trousers, Enzo Custom has you covered.  Our clothiers will give you all the pointers and tools you'll need to wear your next custom suit with confidence.  Step into one of our showrooms today, or if you feel more comfortable at home, make an appointment with us via videoconference.

While many trousers look the same on the surface, there are subtleties that can either complement or detract from an outfit's overall formal appearance.  The same goes for pants that might be needed in more casual contexts.   The aforementioned differences are obvious, but what about pleats, creases, cuffs, or stripes?  In this article, we'll seek to refine these details in a way that makes sense in the context of style and comfort without needing to resort to anything seemingly out of the ordinary.

Trouser Style Types: Pleats, Creases, Stripes, and Everything In Between

As you become more acquainted with formal wear and the dress codes and nuances associated with it, you'll find that many occasions don't always fit neatly into one particular box.  Formal and not-so-formal dress codes tend to operate on a continuum rather than a switch, and sometimes it's more difficult to figure out how to fill in those gaps in style considerations when you're not quite sure if a full two-piece suit is appropriate for any given evening or daytime outing.  For example, while a full suit might be considered overkill for an after-work office party on a Friday, a polo shirt and jeans could very well be too laid-back and met with quiet eye rolls.  For these dress code grey areas—and we can assure you there are many—this is where sport coats come into play.

            From a distance, a sport coat can make a person look like he's wearing a suit, but upon closer examination the difference is clear.  It's easy to think of a sport coat as somewhat of a half-suit, as it is meant to be worn as a way to beef up any semblance of formality without going that extra distance a full suit would provide.  Since sport coats are not meant to exactly match the rest of your outfit in the same way a suit is expected to, it ends up being one of the most versatile clothing items out there.

            This does not mean, however, that pretty much anything goes.  Some things will look better with sport coats and blazers, while others will not.  Sport coats tend to be associated with less formal occasions where the gentlemen in the crowd might be wearing khakis, trousers that don't quite meet the criteria for suit-level formality, or even jeans in some circumstances.  In this piece, we'll delve into the right way to rock your sport coats and semi-formal attire so you can get the most out of your personal style in those proverbial shades of grey.

            When you're trying to figure out what would look best with your sport coat or blazer, a pair of khakis is by far your safest choice.  As an added bonus, you'll appreciate the relative comfort they can provide in comparison with a more formal pair of trousers.  When you're on the fence about the particular expected formality of an event, the addition of a sport coat to a pair of khakis and a polo shirt can do wonders for your overall appearance.  To notch up your formality even further, consider a dress shirt that you might otherwise wear with a suit.  You may, however, decide to forego the necktie.

            Prior to the 1980s, wearing jeans with a sport coat was relatively unheard of and at worst even frowned upon.  Fast-forwarding to today's world, wearing a sport coat with a pair of jeans is relatively commonplace.  As a general rule, doing this is best utilized for events in the evening, not only from a style standpoint but also from a personal comfort aspect.  While jeans do vary in their overall consistency, the added thickness of the denim can keep you more comfortable at night when the temperature tends to drop.  If you go this route, just make sure that your shoes are appropriate for the occasion.  Avoid any sort of athletic shoes and opt for a pair of Oxfords or loafers instead, preferably something that matches the color scheme of your jacket and belt.

            In a pinch, you can even pair a sport coat with trousers meant for a full suit.  However, we would caution you against doing this too often or being too cavalier about it.  In contrast to trousers meant for everyday office attire, suit pants are specifically tailored to exactly match a suit jacket and nothing else.  For example, if you wear a black sport coat with a pair of black suit pants, chances are, the shades of each clothing item will be slightly different, but not different enough to bring out the full intended effect of wearing a sport coat in the first place.  In this case, you'll simply end up looking like your suit tailor made a grave mistake, and this type of mismatch is always something you should avoid.

            Although sport coats and blazers can be very versatile when applied correctly, there are some things that just don't work with them at all.  The first examples that come to mind are the obvious ones; cargo pants, sweat pants, or anything you wouldn't wear out to a nice dinner is pretty much verboten.  While there are some cargo pants on the market that could in theory look very passable, the extra pockets, buttons, and straps will make your outfit look too busy at best and utterly ridiculous at worst.  Even if you can somehow convince yourself that it looks all right, you're better off not attempting this sort of mismatched pairing in the first place.  The same rules apply to shorts as well, unless of course you're trying to make some bold fashion statement, playing guitar on stage in front of 10,000 people, or preparing for a standup set at an open mic night.  Short of those extraordinarily narrow sets of circumstances, sport coats and blazers should always be worn with long pants at the very least.

            While jeans are perfectly fine to pair with a sport coat in most cases, it's still a good idea to avoid certain types of designer jeans when you do this.  In spite of the stratospheric price tags that might imply otherwise, jeans with elaborate stitching patterns, prefabricated holes to replicate that worn-in look, or any sort of bleaching to give the denim a kaleidoscopic appearance should be avoided.  Painter's jeans are also generally considered a no-go with sport coats due to the extra stitching, pockets, and loops.  If you decide to wear jeans with a sport coat, it's best to stick to black or blue denim with a clean symmetrical appearance, as deviating from this can make your outfit look too busy or sloppy.

            In contrast to figuring out which types of trousers pair well with sport coats, settling on a desired color scheme can be a little trickier, especially because there is a lot of leeway in terms of what works with any given outfit.  Even so, there are general rules of thumb you should follow in order to maximize your style potential when it comes to semi-formal settings.

            Just as it is true in the formal realm, black tends to go with just about anything.  We would advise, however, to keep the color confined to either your sport coat or your trousers, not both.  As we explained previously, matching a black sport coat with black pants will likely not gel very well at all, as the slight shade variations in each article of clothing will not be exact and yet also not contrasted enough to bring about any desired style effect.  If you opt for a pair of black trousers, try to ensure that your jacket is under a lighter color umbrella.  Likewise, if you go with a black sport coat, make sure that your trousers are light enough to provide an aesthetically pleasing contrast.

            When you're matching colors that fall anywhere on the greyscale, you'll be surprised to find that you have more style flexibility.  It's perfectly acceptable to match neutral greys with charcoal greys and so on and so forth.  Just make sure that the shades aren't too close to each other, otherwise you'll lose any intended effect from the contrast and run into the same issues as you would when you try to match black jackets with black pants that were purchased separately.

            Sport coats and blazers abound in shades of navy blue, and the color's versatility is what makes it so popular.  When you're dealing with navy blue sport coats, it's always best to go with lighter colors in your trousers to fully accentuate the bold effect that a navy blue jacket can have.  The same rule applies if you opt for a pair of navy blue pants; always go lighter with your jacket.  Keep in mind, however, that navy blue can cause the same mismatching problems that black pants and sport coats can.  Full two- and three-piece navy blue suits are just fine, but you don't want to match shades that are too close together on the color spectrum.  Before you venture out on any given evening, sometimes all it takes to check whether your colors work well with one another is a quick glance in the mirror and some ample lighting.  If something is off, chances are you'll notice it rather quickly and make the necessary adjustments to your outfit.

            Patterns, in contrast to solid colors, have the innate ability to bring out the best in one's personal style.  By the same token, they also have the potential to hinder and detract from any desired aesthetics.  When you're dealing with patterns on your sport coats and trousers, it's always a good idea to use extra discretion and judgment, and subtlety tends to win out over extravagance.

            Plaid, for example, is a great pattern to consider when you feel like your outfit might be missing a bit of that extra charm you're looking for.  But as the general rule goes, that desired charm will be lacking if you attempt to match a plaid sport coat with plaid pants.  When it comes to plaid jackets and trousers, always go with one or the other, not both.  This rule is more or less true for any pattern you might be considering.  If your sport coat has pinstripes, crosshatch, or herringbone patterns, it's best to go with trousers in a solid neutral color to offset any unnecessary and unintended style exaggerations.

            Although nailing down your own sense of personal style is an important aspect of becoming acquainted with formal wear, what's even more vital is ensuring that whatever you choose can be worn with a sense of confidence.  Here at Enzo Custom, our expert clothiers won't ever cut corners in getting your measurements just right for your body dimensions, whether you want to add a few sport coats to your wardrobe or need a full custom suit for an upcoming wedding.  When you're ready for the full Enzo Custom experience, don't hesitate to contact us.  Making an appointment in person or via videoconference is only a click away.

It's easy to think of a sport coat as somewhat of a half-suit, as it is meant to be worn as a way to beef up any semblance of formality without going that extra distance a full suit would provide.  Since sport coats are not meant to exactly match the rest of your outfit in the same way a suit is expected to, it ends up being one of the most versatile clothing items out there.

Style Tips For Matching Trousers and Sport Coats

            For many of us, dressing up for a formal event is always something to look forward to, as the next wedding, awards ceremony, or work function is just another excuse to look our very best.  For others, digging out one's best formal wear can be a bit of a chore, especially when a gentlemen is unsure whether or not they may be overdoing their own sense of style for a particular event, or worst case, when any set of dress code guidelines are unclear.

            As it goes with formal wear, there's no on-and-off switch that gets us from our everyday casual clothes into rigid black-tie attire.  Rather, it is a continuum, full of nuance, variation, and individual deviations largely dependent on personal style preferences and regional customs that determine one's outfit for any given evening.  And, quite frankly, without these nuances, getting ready for social gatherings would be rather boring if we were all expected to wear the exact same thing without any deviations whatsoever.  But of course, most formal events and their respective dress codes fall within a particular set range that is expected, and staying within these parameters can be challenging sometimes, especially when the type of event or dress code is not well defined.

            In one of our previous articles, we discussed the general different types of dress codes one would find at various formal functions and how the guidelines for each are not always set in stone.  In this piece, we set out to revisit some of these aspects, only with a greater emphasis on the events themselves and what to do if a particular dress code or dress code suggestion isn't even indicated in the slightest, as this tends to happen quite frequently even with events where one would assume some semblance of formality is expected.

            If there's any occasion at all where formal dress is to be expected most of the time, it is certainly the wedding.  To make it even easier on the guests and their wardrobe decisions, most wedding invitations will indicate which dress code is appropriate, whether it's black tie, black tie optional, formal, or even casual in some circumstances.  But sometimes, the expected dress code can be confusing, especially when a particular dress code for a given wedding may not be indicated at all.  The latter scenario can leave the invited guests in a bit of a quandary.  Generally, two options come to mind.  One could either go the safe route by wearing a full suit, or dress down toward the semi-formal realm by opting for a sport coat or a shirt and tie sans jacket.  Both of these choices come with inherent risks.  On the more formal end of the spectrum, you might appear to be overdressed, and the last thing you want to do at a wedding is outshine the betrothed.  The general rule here is to never wear a tuxedo to a wedding unless the invitation explicitly indicates a black-tie-only or a black-tie-optional dress code.  Short of that, wearing a full suit is the safer bet, so long as the wedding seems to fall into the more formal realm.  

            This can sometimes get tricky when it comes to destination weddings in exotic locations such as ceremonies being held directly on the beach or in remote mountain areas.  Although misunderstandings happen from time to time, it's never fun to show up to a ceremony dressed in a suit when everyone else is sporting Hawaiian shirts and khakis.  This aforementioned situation is likely a little bit better than being too casual for a formal wedding, but cause for an embarrassing scenario nonetheless.

            When in doubt, ask other invited guests you may know to see what their wardrobe plans are, and while their wild guess might be just as good as yours, they'll likely know a little bit more about what the wedding party will expect from the rest of the guests, especially if they know them better than you do.  It never hurts to ask, but in most situations, it's better to opt for a more formal appearance so long as you don't go overboard.  As weddings are expected to be festive and fun, don't automatically opt for the tuxedo if black-tie dress code isn't indicated, and if you go with a full suit, don't wear anything too solemn that you would wear to a funeral or a courthouse.  Even just a little color can go a long way.

            In many cases, showing up to work functions is easy, as so many of them are held directly after the work day is over and more often than not in the same office or building.  In this case, there's no need to scurry home to make any drastic wardrobe changes, as your typical work dress code will simply carry over to whatever event is taking place once the clock strikes 5 p.m.  In these situations, it's best to simply follow whatever dress code is standard for your place of work, especially if the work function is being held in your office.

            For work functions held offsite, late in the evening, or during the weekend, the dress code rules will vary here.  For company-wide events, you'll likely be notified of what is expected of the guests as far as wardrobe choices go.  But in some cases, the dress code isn't always spelled out.

            Weekend events held during daylight hours are likely to be on the more informal, casual side.  Bear in mind, however, that the term casual can mean different things to different people.  The rule of thumb to follow here is to at the very least be presentable.  While a polo shirt and jeans is probably okay for most company picnics or family-oriented events during the day, you'll want to avoid faded T-shirts or cutoffs unless it's some type of sporting event that specifically calls for that type of dress.

            Evening events, on the other hand, tend to skew more formal, so if the dress code isn't spelled out, opting for a dress shirt and a nice pair of pants at the bare minimum is always a safe practice to follow.  If you're really unsure or your company doesn't have a set dress code during the week, you can always keep a spare sport coat and tie in your car or bag just in case you show up to an event and feel underdressed.  As with most fashion nuances, it's more or less a judgment call.  You just want to be sure to wear something that others won't judge you too harshly for.

            In the context of formal attire, cocktail parties are generally one of the easiest evening events to get ready for.  Men typically wear a suit and tie while women show up to these types of events sporting a cocktail dress, as full evening gowns and tuxedos would be considered too formal.  As cocktail parties normally begin during the early evening hours, it's expected that you can take more liberties with your personal style than you otherwise would during a typical workday or a black-tie dinner.  So long as your suit matches, unconventional shirt patterns or ties with bold colors aren't off-limits.  Just make sure that everything meshes well, as you wouldn't want to show up in a plaid suit while also wearing a plaid shirt, even if the patterns are subtle.  As you probably well know, wearing a patterned shirt with a patterned suit can throw the visuals of your outfit off-balance.

            While the holidays are still some distance away, gatherings that occur around Thanksgiving and Christmas tend to be the most nuanced, as dress codes vary from the extreme side of formal all the way to everyday casual.  For holiday events, standards of dress will largely be dependent upon when and where the gathering occurs, the weather, the time of day, and whether it's a strictly family affair or more inclusive of friends, acquaintances, coworkers, and extended family visiting from other parts of the country.  Based on our combined experience, regardless of the dress code, it's best to wear something that you'll feel comfortable in for extended periods of time, as holiday gatherings in some cases can go well into the early morning hours, even if they start in the early evening.  For most applications in the context of holiday gatherings, you probably won't need to worry too much about tuxedos, cummerbunds, and bow ties, as the black-tie dress code is less common around this time of year.  Even a full suit might be too formal, but as a general rule, it's better to be overdressed than underdressed.  If you find yourself in a situation where your clothes might feel a little too stuffy compared to everyone else's outfits, a suit can actually be quite versatile.  Feeling overdressed can be easily solved by removing your tie or jacket and rolling up your sleeves.  In situations where the weather might be a bit colder than you're used to if you plan on traveling for the holidays, consider packing a spare overcoat, as this item can be used in nearly all the different types of dress code variations out there without turning heads or looking out of place.

            No matter what your fashion sensibilities might be, Enzo Custom has you covered.  Whether you need a brand new custom tuxedo for a black-tie wedding coming up or simply want to add an overcoat to your wardrobe, our expert clothiers will get you fitted.  Stop into one of our showrooms, or if you feel more comfortable at home you can make an appointment with us via videoconference.

As it goes with formal wear, there's no on-and-off switch that gets us from our everyday casual clothes into rigid black-tie attire.  Rather, it is a continuum, full of nuance, variation, and individual deviations largely dependent on personal style preferences and regional customs that determine one's outfit for any given evening.

Dress Code Ambiguity: What To Do When You're Not Sure Formal Wear Is Appropriate

            One would be hard pressed these days to find a suit that isn't advertised or showcased in conjunction with the ubiquitous necktie, and from a style perspective, we're all very glad that's the case.  In its modern form, the necktie has the innate ability to add nearly infinite style permutations to any suit configuration, whether it's a traditional two-piece, sleek and uniform three-piece, a more casually matched sport coat and trouser pairing, or anything in between.  While neckties come in many different colors, patterns, and styles, they're offered in almost as many size variations, as well.  Although the effect tends to be subtler than a given tie's pattern or color, its length, width, and the degrees to which it tapers can all have a profound impact on rounding out a person's individual style.

            The necktie works so well as a suit accessory mainly because of its relatively rudimentary design. In a counterintuitive fashion, this feature allows for greater style flexibility.  With so many different ways to even tie a necktie, the same one can look drastically different depending on the knot as well as the suit with which it is paired.  The same goes for a tie's size.  While it doesn't seem like it would make much of a difference, tie size can add (or take away) balance and symmetry to a gentleman's formal attire.

            As fashion trends tend to ebb and flow, it seems that in the coming years wider ties will be more popular as opposed to skinny, narrower ties that were in vogue not too long ago.  But as fashion trends tend to also be very subjective, opting for what is popular isn't always the best thing to do from a style point of view.  In this article, we'll give you the rundown on the perfect tie sizes to not only match your body dimensions but also complement your individual style concerns and suit-type preferences. 

            While most ties fall between a particular size range, the exact dimensions can vary considerably between manufacturers.  Typically, the width of a tie is measured between the outside points just above the bottom triangular tip, and this range falls generally between 2 and 4 inches.  The standard skinny tie is usually closer to the 2-inch range, while what is considered a wide tie is normally going to have a width greater than 3.5 inches.

            As far as necktie length goes, most ties are going to be about 58 inches long, and this is measured from the triangular tip at the bottom of the tie all the way up to the narrow point on the opposite skinnier side of the tie.  For gentlemen with taller builds, a tie closer to 64 or even more than 67 inches might be more appropriate; the only downside is that these longer ties are a bit harder to find.

            While body type is certainly the most important aspect in determining the right tie to match your formal wear, it is far from being the only factor.

            One thing that is often overlooked when trying to determine the right tie to pair with formal attire is the lapel size on the jacket.  Since a tie is going to be centered directly between each lapel, the rule of thumb here is to match the width of your tie as closely as possible with the width of your lapels.  A wider tie will look better with wider lapels, skinnier ties will look better with lapels that lean toward the narrower side, and so on and so forth.  Since many fashion dos and don'ts are highly subjective based on individual style, this rule isn't set in stone or unbreakable.  But you should be able to eyeball it pretty easily with a quick glance in the mirror.  If there's too much shirt space or conversely not enough, your tie is probably mismatched for your jacket.  This guideline is yet another important reason why it's good to have plenty of ties on hand; sometimes the difference that can make or break an outfit comes down to less than half an inch with regard to tie width, so keeping a plethora of neckties that not only vary in color and style but also in size is very good for boosting wardrobe utility.

            Your suit's color can be almost as important as lapel size when determining the type of tie you should be wearing with a given outfit.  Before we delve into the finer points of tie size, it's best to always go with a tie that's darker than the shirt you're wearing, as a tie is one of those articles of clothing that should stand out to a certain degree rather than get lost in the background.  As far as the color of your suit goes, it's better to wear a tie that's more or less in line with the same tone as your jacket and trousers.  Some contrast is perfectly fine, but you don't necessarily want too much.  While opinions may vary, skinny ties tend to work better with darker colors whereas wider ties are better for balancing less heavy shades.

            Aside from lapel size and suit color, the overall structure and type of suit can also make a difference as to which tie size pairs best.

            Skinnier ties will look better with suits that are tapered, tailored, and contoured very closely to a specific set of body dimensions, such as Italian- and British-style suits that tend to have a slimmer fit overall.  Conversely, American-style suits that tend to have a looser fit and broad shoulder width might fare better with wider ties.  Some exceptions apply to this general rule, however.  Whether the suit is a two-piece or three-piece can also have an effect on the ideal tie size.  Since three-piece suits are worn with a vest underneath a jacket, there is by default going to be less open space visible on your shirt, so a narrower tie can help balance out the encroaching vest.  A wide tie in this situation might leave hardly any space at all for your shirt to shine through, making your overall outfit appear too busy and cluttered.  

            As two-piece suits are not worn with a vest, wider ties can sometimes provide more balance than a standard or narrow tie, since more of your shirt will be exposed and therefore leaves more room for something to fill all of that open space.  This is especially true if you opt to wear a two-piece suit with a white shirt.

            When it comes to double-breasted suits of any kind, the judgment call over your tie size can be a little trickier.  While the lapels and the appearance of the shoulders on double-breasted suits tend to be wider than their single-breasted counterparts, double-breasted suits usually leave a little less room for the center shirt placket, in which case there will also be a little less room for a tie.  However, contrary to the logic here, a skinny tie will almost always look out of place on a double-breasted suit, as it's too narrow to complement the lapels and shoulders.  The best thing to do here for this style quandary is to start off with a standard tie, see how everything pairs in the mirror, and if something seems to be a little off, go up or down a few notches in width.  A wider tie will normally look better with a double-breasted suit, but variations in the lapels and shoulders can occasionally make a wide tie look like it's taking up too much room.  When in doubt, trust your eyeballs and a small amount of trial and error.

            Just as suit style, type, and color can make or break the appearance of a skinny or wide tie, the same is true for individual body dimensions.  Neckties have so far remained one of the most popular suit accessories since they more or less act as powerful equalizers that have the innate ability to level out the overall contrasts and symmetry of a given set of formal attire.  Bearing this in mind, from a style standpoint it's important to choose a tie that will accentuate your personal design sensibilities in all the right places without drawing too much attention to one particular element or skewing the proportionality of your appearance.

            Gentlemen with slimmer builds will generally do better in sporting a skinny tie than others with average or broader body types.  As suits tailored for slighter builds will have less surface area, a skinny tie will appear more proportional than it would on a person wearing a suit made for larger builds.

            As you can imagine, gentlemen with broader body types will do better with wider and longer ties to balance out the extra space on the exposed shirt placket.  Keep in mind, however, that the length of a tie is easier to fix than the width, as the point at which a person ties a tie will impact how low or high it goes.  Before you tie it to your liking, keeping the narrower end of the tie shorter will result in a longer appearance, and vice versa.  Just make sure that the narrow end of the tie never droops down below the wide end when the tie is tied; if this happens, your tie is probably too long and you should opt for one that's a few inches shorter in overall length.

            By keeping several ties on hand of varying widths and lengths, over time you'll be able to more easily determine the best tie to match with whatever suit you decide to wear on a given day.  As with most fashion nuances, it comes down to a judgment call based on your own two eyes so long as you don't stray too far from general guidelines.

            Whether you're ready to upgrade your wardrobe with a new collection of ties or need to add another custom suit to your weekly rotation, Enzo Custom has you covered.  Step into one of our showrooms, or make an appointment with one of our expert clothiers via videoconference.

While neckties come in many different colors, patterns, and styles, they're offered in almost as many size variations, as well.  Although the effect tends to be subtler than a given tie's pattern or color, its length, width, and the degrees to which it tapers can all have a profound impact on rounding out a person's individual style.

Skinny vs. Standard Ties and Everything In Between: Determining The Right Size For Your Suit and Body Type

            Considering all of the components that go into designing a custom suit to your personal liking, one of the most overlooked parts happens to also be one of the most important.  The trouser waistband is not only vital from a functionality perspective but also from a stylistic one.  This central component can determine how your dress shirt fits with the rest of your ensemble, how comfortable you are while you wear it, and how proportional the entire suit looks up close and from afar.  In the realm of formal wear, many variations on the waistband exist, as they tend to be available on a continuum rather than boxed into set types.  In spite of this flexibility, however, most waistbands will have similar features or common variants thereof.

            Trouser waistbands can affect many aspects of a custom suit in several ways, but the most prominent contribution of the waistband is personal comfort.  A waistband on a custom suit can only function if it's measured to the proper size, otherwise you'll be dreading every event that requires you to put one on.  If a trouser waistband is not measured to your dimensions accurately, you'll likely experience difficulty in accommodating any belts or suspenders to your outfit.  A loose-fitting waistband will bunch up under a belt while one that's too tight can either make your belt appear droopy or prevent your suspenders from doing their job.  Similar challenges apply to dress shirts tucked into an improperly measured waistband.  If there's too much room, you'll be adjusting your shirt all night to prevent it from coming out; if there isn't enough, you'll feel constricted and even be limited in your movements.

            Stylistically, many waistband designs and options are a matter of personal preference, which is what we will cover in this article.  To reiterate, however, your measurements need to be accurate in order for any of the other bells and whistles to work as intended.

            It goes without saying that less is more is a powerful driver of current fashion trends.  Sleek, modern, and practical designs as of late have eclipsed the more ornate and intricate style sensibilities of the past.  In keeping up with this trend, many suit trouser waistbands are offered with, well, almost nothing at all, and that's not necessarily a bad thing.  In its simplest form, the trouser waistband has to both provide support for the rest of your pants and accommodate your personal comfort level, and a trouser waistband can do both of these things even without any straps or belt loops.  For this style, it's especially important that your body dimensions are measured accurately, since belts cannot be worn with this type of waistband.  However, in almost all cases, inside buttons will be present so you can attach a pair of suspenders for that extra assurance that your pants won't fall down spontaneously.  In theory, you could get away with wearing trousers sans braces, but our combined experience would advise against it, especially when you might be standing or moving around for extended periods of time.  This particular bare-bones variant of the trouser waistband is quite stylish, which normally uses an interior hook rather than a visible button for fastening in order to let your pants seamlessly flow with the rest of your formal attire.  As a result, this type of waistband is also considered to be more formal than other types.  And for the gentlemen who swear by belts, worry not, as belt loops can be added to this type of waistband—and most others—quite easily.

            When those of us most familiar with formal wear hear the word elastic, we might instinctually shrug, tilt our heads, or make a strange face that could scare away small animals.  But contrary to popular belief, the presence of elastic isn't always a negative, especially when it's there to ensure proper functionality of a side button adjuster.  While elastic is more associated with gym shorts, sweat pants, and other articles of casual wear, many gentlemen big and small value comfort above all else, and when formal trousers are tailored correctly, your acquaintances will be none the wiser.  In short, elastic waistbands can have a place in formal attire, but only if the elastic is completely concealed and doesn't stretch too much.  Maybe in a hundred years it'll be common to see someone wearing a dress shirt and tie with drawstring pants (really, we hope not), but we're a long way off from such a dystopian sense of fashion.  If you opt for an elastic waistband, make sure it only gives an inch or two at most, as it is there only to provide additional comfort rather than compensate for bad measurements. 

            For gentlemen who require even more extra room, longer button extenders can be added to the trouser waistband, and this is also a good option for people who need to accommodate more layers or thicker dress shirts when it gets cold.  As we can't stress this fact enough, button extenders in the realm of formal wear are only supposed to provide an inch or two of extra room, so in cases where your trouser waistband has several notches, it's best to determine your dimensions that would feel the most comfortable somewhere around the middle buttons or notches rather than the far ones.  The main benefit of this style is that your pants can provide you extra room without too many sliders or side adjusters that, depending on their placement, can sometimes cause discomfort or not work properly.  Precise tailoring and superior manufacturing standards can eliminate these pitfalls of more complex trouser waistbands, but with simpler designs, your pants will look more in line with the rest of your outfit.  With fewer parts that can be prone to wear or failure, your trousers are also more likely to last longer.

            Waistbands equipped with only one hook or button fastener tend to be more popular, given the more simplistic design.  However, waistbands with two hooks or buttons can have some advantages, especially when it comes to overall support.  With this more complex design, sometimes both buttons are closer to the right side of the trouser waistband, with each one above and below the other.  Some designs put the buttons and hooks right next to each other, with one being concealed by the waistband itself, yielding a more centered and less busy design.  The advantage of an extra hook or button is better trouser support, as they are less likely to move around or cause dress shirts to bunch up.  Two-button designs where both buttons are visible tend to be used more often with trousers without belt loops that require suspenders, while the style that conceals at least one button or hook tends to be used with belt-loop waistbands, but this is not a universal rule.  The only potential disadvantage to this style is the extra time it takes to put the trousers on, although this extra time is rather negligible compared to putting on a bow tie or making sure your cufflinks are securely in place on your dress shirt.  The presence of two buttons or hooks can provide the ultimate balance between support and comfort, as you'll be less likely to continuously adjust your shirt or pants throughout any given evening.  Just keep in mind that the same rule for measurements apply here as well, since no adjustable straps or extra buttons are a substitute for incorrect dimensions.

            In lieu of belts or suspenders, some gentlemen prefer side adjusters and D-ring straps for trouser support.  More commonly found on tuxedo pants that never have belt loops, these handy devices function in the same way as belts and suspenders do without the need for any accessories attached to the pants themselves.  One of the most common complaints when it comes to wearing a belt with a suit is the discomfort some people experience when they have to sit down for long periods of time.  Trousers with side adjusters normally don't cause the same problems, and while you'll never get the same stylish look as you would with a belt, many gentlemen will take the added comfort over any stylistic concerns.

            Functionally, buttons and hooks serve the same purpose of keeping your trousers closed, but one would be surprised at how many gentlemen prefer one over the other.  Buttons have the advantage when it comes to replacement and adjustment, since fixing them doesn't even require a tailor so long as you're somewhat handy with a sewing needle.  If your body dimensions tend to fluctuate, buttons can be moved with relative ease.  The main disadvantage, however, is that buttons tend to come loose over time, especially with repeated use.  They are also vulnerable to small chips and cracks depending on the button's material, so you may end up having to replace them often depending on how frequently you wear a given suit.

            Many would say that hooks are stylistically superior to buttons, and this is certainly true for trouser waistbands without any belt loops.  Hooks, however, are more difficult to replace as they are sewn into the interior of the waistband and stay at relatively fixed positions.  As most hooks are made of metal, they won't ever chip or crack and tend to last much longer than buttons.  The upside to their fixed positions is that hooks are much less likely to come loose and fall off, regardless of how many times you put on a given suit throughout its lifespan.  With hooks, though, the biggest concern is that they don't always provide the same secure support that buttons will, as hooks can become unhinged throughout any given evening or workday.  A properly tailored custom suit, however, shouldn't encounter any of these problems, as proper manufacture and accurate measurements eliminate these issues for the most part.

            For those undecided in the hook vs. button debate, some trouser waistbands offer the best of both worlds, normally with a hook on the inside and a button on the far end.  This style can provide superior support than either a hook or a button alone, and it also protects against potential embarrassing mishaps if one component fails for some reason.  Whether you prefer hooks or buttons, waistband closures are available with or without extensions depending on whether or not you need some extra room.

            One final note worth mentioning is the small split that is sometimes present on trouser waistbands.  While it's certainly not necessary and hardly noticeable to most as they can be smaller than a centimeter in width, some waistbands come with a small split toward the very back held together by loose pairs of stitches.  Occasionally referred to as the tongue-in-cheek after-dinner split, the main purpose of the V split is not to provide extra room after a heavy meal as the name implies, but to allow better movement of the trouser fabric while you sit down.  While this feature is largely something driven by personal preference, some will swear by its added comfort level.

            Whether you're eyeing a custom suit for everyday office use or something more formal to wear for your next evening outing, our clothiers at Enzo Custom will help you to determine the best trouser waistband style to your liking.  With so many options available, step into one of our showrooms, schedule an appointment online, and look no further.

The trouser waistband is not only vital from a functionality perspective but also from a stylistic one.  This central component can determine how your dress shirt fits with the rest of your ensemble, how comfortable you are while you wear it, and how proportional the entire suit looks up close and from afar.

Trouser Waistband Types and How To Determine The Right One For You

Picture yourself getting ready for another day at the office or a formal night out.  Once you've put on your suit and fastened your tie to your liking, the last thing you probably do before you head out the door is check your pockets for your keys, wallet, glasses, cell phone, and maybe a few business cards.  For most of us, we do this automatically without even thinking about it.  In both formal and casual realms, pockets have been standard features on most articles of clothing, and as a result, even if we don't realize it, we tend to take them for granted.  The ease at which we carry our personal items with us today, however, was not always a given.

            Prior to the 17th century, pockets were rather rare, and personal items were instead carried attached to the belt or in a separate bag or purse that the person would take with them.  Of course this practice had its disadvantages, especially at the dawn of rapid industrialization and urban growth.  Without pockets, personal items were easy targets for thieves.  When sewn-in pockets became more commonplace, personal items were carried closer to the body, thereby reducing the chances of a person falling victim to theft.  Although thieves became more creative to counteract this new invention and pick-pocketing became somewhat of an art form, sewn-in pockets made it easier to walk through crowded streets without having to worry as much about personal items going missing.  Over time, pockets became even more inconspicuous as they were sewn into fabrics rather than attached to the outside of the garment.  

            In the last hundred years or so, pockets in men's formal wear have remained relatively standard and consistent.  Most suit jackets now come equipped with inside pockets that aren't visible from the outside of the fabric at all; while the main benefit of this is concealment, inside pockets have had another less obvious unintended consequence, as more of us are required to carry more stuff with us than we were 20 or 30 years ago.  Trying to cram keys, wallets, and cell phones into outside pockets would translate into a potential style faux pas, as doing so might make a suit look like it's bulging at the seams.  So until we figure out a way to carry everything with us in a single device or digital signal embedded into our watches, pockets are here to stay for the time being.  In this article we'll go over the different pocket types and how you can best utilize them to keep yourself looking sharp, even when you're required to carry so many things that you may find yourself feeling like a ticket scalper.

            By and large, the most common types of pockets found on suit jackets are flap pockets and patch pockets.  Although both types are similarly placed toward the bottom sides of the jacket, they differ in how they are sewn onto the garment.  Patch pockets are clearly visible from the outside of the jacket, as the pocket is fixed on the outer part of the jacket whereas flap pockets are sewn into the fabric, concealing the pocket's outline.  As the name clearly suggests, flap pockets are easily recognizable by the flap at the top of the pocket, originally intended to keep outside elements (dust, debris, etc.) from getting onto the pocket's contents.

            While both types serve the same functional purpose, flap pockets are the more formal of the two, and these days it's pretty rare to find patch pockets on a formal suit.  They're more appropriate for other types of less formal outerwear, such as sport coats and overcoats.  Flap pockets are beneficial when it comes to formal wear because they present less visual interruption of a suit's style and symmetry.  Although patch pockets are easier to stitch onto a jacket, their conspicuous outlines detract from their usefulness in the context of formal occasions.

            Jetted pockets, like flap pockets, are sewn into the jacket so the pocket outline cannot be seen from the outside.  However, the top of the pocket only contains a slit rather than a flap for a more streamlined, symmetrical appearance.  Keeping with the mantra of less is more, jetted pockets are considered to be more formal than flap pockets, and some gentlemen prefer to turn their existing flap pockets into jetted ones by folding the outside flap into the pocket for a sleeker look.  While many prefer the look of a suit that minimizes excess material attached to it, the only real downside of jetted pockets is that they tend to be a little smaller than their flapped counterparts.  So if you're the type of person who tends to carry around a lot of personal items with you, you might want to opt for flap pockets instead.

            Almost all varieties of formal jackets come with a breast pocket, normally placed on the left side next to the center of the jacket lapel.  At one point in time, the breast pocket served the functional purpose of keeping personal handkerchiefs separate from other items a person may have been carrying.  These days, the breast pocket is largely cosmetic, serving only as a way to carry another ornamental addition to a formal ensemble that also evolved from the handkerchief.  Pocket squares have largely abandoned their original intended purpose and instead come in an array of patterns and colors that add a tinge of charm to one's formal wear.  If you choose to don a pocket square, be sure to fold them carefully, as breast pockets tend to be narrow and can bulge if a pocket square is stuffed into it haphazardly.

            While breast pockets remain a staple of formal wear, the ticket pocket has largely disappeared.  Originally designed to hold train tickets when traveling, the ticket pocket was generally placed just above the right flap pocket of a person's jacket for easy access.  Although some jackets still retain this relic of a bygone era, they are most commonly seen on overcoats and jackets designed for more casual affairs.  The placement of the ticket pocket just above the right flap or jetted pocket can throw off a jacket's symmetry, thereby reducing its usefulness in formal settings.

            One would be hard-pressed to find any suits, blazers, or other articles of formal outerwear without inside pockets these days, and if anything they've become more common and more numerous.  From its obviously appropriate name, the inside pocket is by far the most inconspicuous pocket type, as neither the opening nor the pocket itself can be seen from the outside of the jacket.  The main benefit of having inside pockets is the heightened privacy and security of your personal items.  Inside pockets allow you to carry your personal items very close to your body and away from plain view, so you can put your mind at ease even if you have to walk through large crowds of people to catch your next train home.

            At the bare minimum, most suit jackets will have an inside pocket placed on the left side of the jacket right behind the breast pocket.  But today it's more common to have two inside pockets, with one on each side.  Some suit jackets may even have more.  As it is also the pocket type with the most versatility, the inside pocket can be used for just about anything, whether you need space for your cell phone, business cards, extra pens, notepads, credit cards, travel documents, or cash.  Bear in mind, however, that it's best not to overload them, as any bulges your personal items may cause will be visible from the outer fabric of the jacket and detract from a suit's aesthetic qualities.

            Just as it would be difficult to find any suit jackets without inside pockets, it would be nearly impossible to come across a pair of formal trousers that didn't have back pockets.  While some gentlemen insist on carrying their wallets in one of their back pockets due to habit or ease of access, we would caution against this practice.  For one, having to sit on your wallet is uncomfortable, especially for lengthy periods of time.  Also, carrying any valuables in your back pocket makes them more prone to theft, as a person will be less likely to notice something missing from there, especially in dense crowds.

            For essential personal items such as wallets or keys, you're better off carrying them in your front pockets.  As far as front pants pockets go, the slant pocket is by far the most common.  The pocket opening is set at an angle from the pant seams, making it easy to slide your hands right in so you can grab whatever you might need.

            Vertical pockets are functionally the same as slant pockets, with one subtle yet important distinction.  The openings of these pockets are parallel to the pant seams, which allow for a sleeker, more uniform look.  As a result, vertical pockets tend to be considered the more formal of the two.

            In the context of formal wear, coin pockets and frogmouth pockets are relatively nonexistent, but they're worth mentioning nonetheless.  The openings of frogmouth pockets are placed horizontally across the front of the pants, and this noticeable feature limits their use in formal settings.  In spite of their relative rarity, you'll be more likely to find frogmouth pockets (or variations thereof) on corduroy pants and jeans.  The same is true for the small coin pocket, usually visible above the opening of the right front pocket if it's present at all.  It's unlikely that you'll see coin pockets on formal trousers, but this useful addition is common on many brands of jeans as a way to keep your change from getting mixed up in your wallet or billfold.

            While there are many components and style considerations that go into creating custom suits, pockets will always remain one of the most vital and functional parts of them.  Here at Enzo Custom, our expert clothiers will always help you balance functionality with style.  Whether you need extra inside pockets or want to give yourself a little more room for a pocket square, we've got you covered.

In both formal and casual realms, pockets have been standard features on most articles of clothing, and as a result, even if we don't realize it, we tend to take them for granted.  The ease at which we carry our personal items with us today, however, was not always a given.

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