            For many of us, dressing up for a formal event is always something to look forward to, as the next wedding, awards ceremony, or work function is just another excuse to look our very best.  For others, digging out one's best formal wear can be a bit of a chore, especially when a gentlemen is unsure whether or not they may be overdoing their own sense of style for a particular event, or worst case, when any set of dress code guidelines are unclear.

            As it goes with formal wear, there's no on-and-off switch that gets us from our everyday casual clothes into rigid black-tie attire.  Rather, it is a continuum, full of nuance, variation, and individual deviations largely dependent on personal style preferences and regional customs that determine one's outfit for any given evening.  And, quite frankly, without these nuances, getting ready for social gatherings would be rather boring if we were all expected to wear the exact same thing without any deviations whatsoever.  But of course, most formal events and their respective dress codes fall within a particular set range that is expected, and staying within these parameters can be challenging sometimes, especially when the type of event or dress code is not well defined.

            In one of our previous articles, we discussed the general different types of dress codes one would find at various formal functions and how the guidelines for each are not always set in stone.  In this piece, we set out to revisit some of these aspects, only with a greater emphasis on the events themselves and what to do if a particular dress code or dress code suggestion isn't even indicated in the slightest, as this tends to happen quite frequently even with events where one would assume some semblance of formality is expected.

            If there's any occasion at all where formal dress is to be expected most of the time, it is certainly the wedding.  To make it even easier on the guests and their wardrobe decisions, most wedding invitations will indicate which dress code is appropriate, whether it's black tie, black tie optional, formal, or even casual in some circumstances.  But sometimes, the expected dress code can be confusing, especially when a particular dress code for a given wedding may not be indicated at all.  The latter scenario can leave the invited guests in a bit of a quandary.  Generally, two options come to mind.  One could either go the safe route by wearing a full suit, or dress down toward the semi-formal realm by opting for a sport coat or a shirt and tie sans jacket.  Both of these choices come with inherent risks.  On the more formal end of the spectrum, you might appear to be overdressed, and the last thing you want to do at a wedding is outshine the betrothed.  The general rule here is to never wear a tuxedo to a wedding unless the invitation explicitly indicates a black-tie-only or a black-tie-optional dress code.  Short of that, wearing a full suit is the safer bet, so long as the wedding seems to fall into the more formal realm.  

            This can sometimes get tricky when it comes to destination weddings in exotic locations such as ceremonies being held directly on the beach or in remote mountain areas.  Although misunderstandings happen from time to time, it's never fun to show up to a ceremony dressed in a suit when everyone else is sporting Hawaiian shirts and khakis.  This aforementioned situation is likely a little bit better than being too casual for a formal wedding, but cause for an embarrassing scenario nonetheless.

            When in doubt, ask other invited guests you may know to see what their wardrobe plans are, and while their wild guess might be just as good as yours, they'll likely know a little bit more about what the wedding party will expect from the rest of the guests, especially if they know them better than you do.  It never hurts to ask, but in most situations, it's better to opt for a more formal appearance so long as you don't go overboard.  As weddings are expected to be festive and fun, don't automatically opt for the tuxedo if black-tie dress code isn't indicated, and if you go with a full suit, don't wear anything too solemn that you would wear to a funeral or a courthouse.  Even just a little color can go a long way.

            In many cases, showing up to work functions is easy, as so many of them are held directly after the work day is over and more often than not in the same office or building.  In this case, there's no need to scurry home to make any drastic wardrobe changes, as your typical work dress code will simply carry over to whatever event is taking place once the clock strikes 5 p.m.  In these situations, it's best to simply follow whatever dress code is standard for your place of work, especially if the work function is being held in your office.

            For work functions held offsite, late in the evening, or during the weekend, the dress code rules will vary here.  For company-wide events, you'll likely be notified of what is expected of the guests as far as wardrobe choices go.  But in some cases, the dress code isn't always spelled out.

            Weekend events held during daylight hours are likely to be on the more informal, casual side.  Bear in mind, however, that the term casual can mean different things to different people.  The rule of thumb to follow here is to at the very least be presentable.  While a polo shirt and jeans is probably okay for most company picnics or family-oriented events during the day, you'll want to avoid faded T-shirts or cutoffs unless it's some type of sporting event that specifically calls for that type of dress.

            Evening events, on the other hand, tend to skew more formal, so if the dress code isn't spelled out, opting for a dress shirt and a nice pair of pants at the bare minimum is always a safe practice to follow.  If you're really unsure or your company doesn't have a set dress code during the week, you can always keep a spare sport coat and tie in your car or bag just in case you show up to an event and feel underdressed.  As with most fashion nuances, it's more or less a judgment call.  You just want to be sure to wear something that others won't judge you too harshly for.

            In the context of formal attire, cocktail parties are generally one of the easiest evening events to get ready for.  Men typically wear a suit and tie while women show up to these types of events sporting a cocktail dress, as full evening gowns and tuxedos would be considered too formal.  As cocktail parties normally begin during the early evening hours, it's expected that you can take more liberties with your personal style than you otherwise would during a typical workday or a black-tie dinner.  So long as your suit matches, unconventional shirt patterns or ties with bold colors aren't off-limits.  Just make sure that everything meshes well, as you wouldn't want to show up in a plaid suit while also wearing a plaid shirt, even if the patterns are subtle.  As you probably well know, wearing a patterned shirt with a patterned suit can throw the visuals of your outfit off-balance.

            While the holidays are still some distance away, gatherings that occur around Thanksgiving and Christmas tend to be the most nuanced, as dress codes vary from the extreme side of formal all the way to everyday casual.  For holiday events, standards of dress will largely be dependent upon when and where the gathering occurs, the weather, the time of day, and whether it's a strictly family affair or more inclusive of friends, acquaintances, coworkers, and extended family visiting from other parts of the country.  Based on our combined experience, regardless of the dress code, it's best to wear something that you'll feel comfortable in for extended periods of time, as holiday gatherings in some cases can go well into the early morning hours, even if they start in the early evening.  For most applications in the context of holiday gatherings, you probably won't need to worry too much about tuxedos, cummerbunds, and bow ties, as the black-tie dress code is less common around this time of year.  Even a full suit might be too formal, but as a general rule, it's better to be overdressed than underdressed.  If you find yourself in a situation where your clothes might feel a little too stuffy compared to everyone else's outfits, a suit can actually be quite versatile.  Feeling overdressed can be easily solved by removing your tie or jacket and rolling up your sleeves.  In situations where the weather might be a bit colder than you're used to if you plan on traveling for the holidays, consider packing a spare overcoat, as this item can be used in nearly all the different types of dress code variations out there without turning heads or looking out of place.

            No matter what your fashion sensibilities might be, Enzo Custom has you covered.  Whether you need a brand new custom tuxedo for a black-tie wedding coming up or simply want to add an overcoat to your wardrobe, our expert clothiers will get you fitted.  Stop into one of our showrooms, or if you feel more comfortable at home you can make an appointment with us via videoconference.

As it goes with formal wear, there's no on-and-off switch that gets us from our everyday casual clothes into rigid black-tie attire.  Rather, it is a continuum, full of nuance, variation, and individual deviations largely dependent on personal style preferences and regional customs that determine one's outfit for any given evening.

Dress Code Ambiguity: What To Do When You're Not Sure Formal Wear Is Appropriate

            One would be hard pressed these days to find a suit that isn't advertised or showcased in conjunction with the ubiquitous necktie, and from a style perspective, we're all very glad that's the case.  In its modern form, the necktie has the innate ability to add nearly infinite style permutations to any suit configuration, whether it's a traditional two-piece, sleek and uniform three-piece, a more casually matched sport coat and trouser pairing, or anything in between.  While neckties come in many different colors, patterns, and styles, they're offered in almost as many size variations, as well.  Although the effect tends to be subtler than a given tie's pattern or color, its length, width, and the degrees to which it tapers can all have a profound impact on rounding out a person's individual style.

            The necktie works so well as a suit accessory mainly because of its relatively rudimentary design. In a counterintuitive fashion, this feature allows for greater style flexibility.  With so many different ways to even tie a necktie, the same one can look drastically different depending on the knot as well as the suit with which it is paired.  The same goes for a tie's size.  While it doesn't seem like it would make much of a difference, tie size can add (or take away) balance and symmetry to a gentleman's formal attire.

            As fashion trends tend to ebb and flow, it seems that in the coming years wider ties will be more popular as opposed to skinny, narrower ties that were in vogue not too long ago.  But as fashion trends tend to also be very subjective, opting for what is popular isn't always the best thing to do from a style point of view.  In this article, we'll give you the rundown on the perfect tie sizes to not only match your body dimensions but also complement your individual style concerns and suit-type preferences. 

            While most ties fall between a particular size range, the exact dimensions can vary considerably between manufacturers.  Typically, the width of a tie is measured between the outside points just above the bottom triangular tip, and this range falls generally between 2 and 4 inches.  The standard skinny tie is usually closer to the 2-inch range, while what is considered a wide tie is normally going to have a width greater than 3.5 inches.

            As far as necktie length goes, most ties are going to be about 58 inches long, and this is measured from the triangular tip at the bottom of the tie all the way up to the narrow point on the opposite skinnier side of the tie.  For gentlemen with taller builds, a tie closer to 64 or even more than 67 inches might be more appropriate; the only downside is that these longer ties are a bit harder to find.

            While body type is certainly the most important aspect in determining the right tie to match your formal wear, it is far from being the only factor.

            One thing that is often overlooked when trying to determine the right tie to pair with formal attire is the lapel size on the jacket.  Since a tie is going to be centered directly between each lapel, the rule of thumb here is to match the width of your tie as closely as possible with the width of your lapels.  A wider tie will look better with wider lapels, skinnier ties will look better with lapels that lean toward the narrower side, and so on and so forth.  Since many fashion dos and don'ts are highly subjective based on individual style, this rule isn't set in stone or unbreakable.  But you should be able to eyeball it pretty easily with a quick glance in the mirror.  If there's too much shirt space or conversely not enough, your tie is probably mismatched for your jacket.  This guideline is yet another important reason why it's good to have plenty of ties on hand; sometimes the difference that can make or break an outfit comes down to less than half an inch with regard to tie width, so keeping a plethora of neckties that not only vary in color and style but also in size is very good for boosting wardrobe utility.

            Your suit's color can be almost as important as lapel size when determining the type of tie you should be wearing with a given outfit.  Before we delve into the finer points of tie size, it's best to always go with a tie that's darker than the shirt you're wearing, as a tie is one of those articles of clothing that should stand out to a certain degree rather than get lost in the background.  As far as the color of your suit goes, it's better to wear a tie that's more or less in line with the same tone as your jacket and trousers.  Some contrast is perfectly fine, but you don't necessarily want too much.  While opinions may vary, skinny ties tend to work better with darker colors whereas wider ties are better for balancing less heavy shades.

            Aside from lapel size and suit color, the overall structure and type of suit can also make a difference as to which tie size pairs best.

            Skinnier ties will look better with suits that are tapered, tailored, and contoured very closely to a specific set of body dimensions, such as Italian- and British-style suits that tend to have a slimmer fit overall.  Conversely, American-style suits that tend to have a looser fit and broad shoulder width might fare better with wider ties.  Some exceptions apply to this general rule, however.  Whether the suit is a two-piece or three-piece can also have an effect on the ideal tie size.  Since three-piece suits are worn with a vest underneath a jacket, there is by default going to be less open space visible on your shirt, so a narrower tie can help balance out the encroaching vest.  A wide tie in this situation might leave hardly any space at all for your shirt to shine through, making your overall outfit appear too busy and cluttered.  

            As two-piece suits are not worn with a vest, wider ties can sometimes provide more balance than a standard or narrow tie, since more of your shirt will be exposed and therefore leaves more room for something to fill all of that open space.  This is especially true if you opt to wear a two-piece suit with a white shirt.

            When it comes to double-breasted suits of any kind, the judgment call over your tie size can be a little trickier.  While the lapels and the appearance of the shoulders on double-breasted suits tend to be wider than their single-breasted counterparts, double-breasted suits usually leave a little less room for the center shirt placket, in which case there will also be a little less room for a tie.  However, contrary to the logic here, a skinny tie will almost always look out of place on a double-breasted suit, as it's too narrow to complement the lapels and shoulders.  The best thing to do here for this style quandary is to start off with a standard tie, see how everything pairs in the mirror, and if something seems to be a little off, go up or down a few notches in width.  A wider tie will normally look better with a double-breasted suit, but variations in the lapels and shoulders can occasionally make a wide tie look like it's taking up too much room.  When in doubt, trust your eyeballs and a small amount of trial and error.

            Just as suit style, type, and color can make or break the appearance of a skinny or wide tie, the same is true for individual body dimensions.  Neckties have so far remained one of the most popular suit accessories since they more or less act as powerful equalizers that have the innate ability to level out the overall contrasts and symmetry of a given set of formal attire.  Bearing this in mind, from a style standpoint it's important to choose a tie that will accentuate your personal design sensibilities in all the right places without drawing too much attention to one particular element or skewing the proportionality of your appearance.

            Gentlemen with slimmer builds will generally do better in sporting a skinny tie than others with average or broader body types.  As suits tailored for slighter builds will have less surface area, a skinny tie will appear more proportional than it would on a person wearing a suit made for larger builds.

            As you can imagine, gentlemen with broader body types will do better with wider and longer ties to balance out the extra space on the exposed shirt placket.  Keep in mind, however, that the length of a tie is easier to fix than the width, as the point at which a person ties a tie will impact how low or high it goes.  Before you tie it to your liking, keeping the narrower end of the tie shorter will result in a longer appearance, and vice versa.  Just make sure that the narrow end of the tie never droops down below the wide end when the tie is tied; if this happens, your tie is probably too long and you should opt for one that's a few inches shorter in overall length.

            By keeping several ties on hand of varying widths and lengths, over time you'll be able to more easily determine the best tie to match with whatever suit you decide to wear on a given day.  As with most fashion nuances, it comes down to a judgment call based on your own two eyes so long as you don't stray too far from general guidelines.

            Whether you're ready to upgrade your wardrobe with a new collection of ties or need to add another custom suit to your weekly rotation, Enzo Custom has you covered.  Step into one of our showrooms, or make an appointment with one of our expert clothiers via videoconference.

While neckties come in many different colors, patterns, and styles, they're offered in almost as many size variations, as well.  Although the effect tends to be subtler than a given tie's pattern or color, its length, width, and the degrees to which it tapers can all have a profound impact on rounding out a person's individual style.

Skinny vs. Standard Ties and Everything In Between: Determining The Right Size For Your Suit and Body Type

            Considering all of the components that go into designing a custom suit to your personal liking, one of the most overlooked parts happens to also be one of the most important.  The trouser waistband is not only vital from a functionality perspective but also from a stylistic one.  This central component can determine how your dress shirt fits with the rest of your ensemble, how comfortable you are while you wear it, and how proportional the entire suit looks up close and from afar.  In the realm of formal wear, many variations on the waistband exist, as they tend to be available on a continuum rather than boxed into set types.  In spite of this flexibility, however, most waistbands will have similar features or common variants thereof.

            Trouser waistbands can affect many aspects of a custom suit in several ways, but the most prominent contribution of the waistband is personal comfort.  A waistband on a custom suit can only function if it's measured to the proper size, otherwise you'll be dreading every event that requires you to put one on.  If a trouser waistband is not measured to your dimensions accurately, you'll likely experience difficulty in accommodating any belts or suspenders to your outfit.  A loose-fitting waistband will bunch up under a belt while one that's too tight can either make your belt appear droopy or prevent your suspenders from doing their job.  Similar challenges apply to dress shirts tucked into an improperly measured waistband.  If there's too much room, you'll be adjusting your shirt all night to prevent it from coming out; if there isn't enough, you'll feel constricted and even be limited in your movements.

            Stylistically, many waistband designs and options are a matter of personal preference, which is what we will cover in this article.  To reiterate, however, your measurements need to be accurate in order for any of the other bells and whistles to work as intended.

            It goes without saying that less is more is a powerful driver of current fashion trends.  Sleek, modern, and practical designs as of late have eclipsed the more ornate and intricate style sensibilities of the past.  In keeping up with this trend, many suit trouser waistbands are offered with, well, almost nothing at all, and that's not necessarily a bad thing.  In its simplest form, the trouser waistband has to both provide support for the rest of your pants and accommodate your personal comfort level, and a trouser waistband can do both of these things even without any straps or belt loops.  For this style, it's especially important that your body dimensions are measured accurately, since belts cannot be worn with this type of waistband.  However, in almost all cases, inside buttons will be present so you can attach a pair of suspenders for that extra assurance that your pants won't fall down spontaneously.  In theory, you could get away with wearing trousers sans braces, but our combined experience would advise against it, especially when you might be standing or moving around for extended periods of time.  This particular bare-bones variant of the trouser waistband is quite stylish, which normally uses an interior hook rather than a visible button for fastening in order to let your pants seamlessly flow with the rest of your formal attire.  As a result, this type of waistband is also considered to be more formal than other types.  And for the gentlemen who swear by belts, worry not, as belt loops can be added to this type of waistband—and most others—quite easily.

            When those of us most familiar with formal wear hear the word elastic, we might instinctually shrug, tilt our heads, or make a strange face that could scare away small animals.  But contrary to popular belief, the presence of elastic isn't always a negative, especially when it's there to ensure proper functionality of a side button adjuster.  While elastic is more associated with gym shorts, sweat pants, and other articles of casual wear, many gentlemen big and small value comfort above all else, and when formal trousers are tailored correctly, your acquaintances will be none the wiser.  In short, elastic waistbands can have a place in formal attire, but only if the elastic is completely concealed and doesn't stretch too much.  Maybe in a hundred years it'll be common to see someone wearing a dress shirt and tie with drawstring pants (really, we hope not), but we're a long way off from such a dystopian sense of fashion.  If you opt for an elastic waistband, make sure it only gives an inch or two at most, as it is there only to provide additional comfort rather than compensate for bad measurements. 

            For gentlemen who require even more extra room, longer button extenders can be added to the trouser waistband, and this is also a good option for people who need to accommodate more layers or thicker dress shirts when it gets cold.  As we can't stress this fact enough, button extenders in the realm of formal wear are only supposed to provide an inch or two of extra room, so in cases where your trouser waistband has several notches, it's best to determine your dimensions that would feel the most comfortable somewhere around the middle buttons or notches rather than the far ones.  The main benefit of this style is that your pants can provide you extra room without too many sliders or side adjusters that, depending on their placement, can sometimes cause discomfort or not work properly.  Precise tailoring and superior manufacturing standards can eliminate these pitfalls of more complex trouser waistbands, but with simpler designs, your pants will look more in line with the rest of your outfit.  With fewer parts that can be prone to wear or failure, your trousers are also more likely to last longer.

            Waistbands equipped with only one hook or button fastener tend to be more popular, given the more simplistic design.  However, waistbands with two hooks or buttons can have some advantages, especially when it comes to overall support.  With this more complex design, sometimes both buttons are closer to the right side of the trouser waistband, with each one above and below the other.  Some designs put the buttons and hooks right next to each other, with one being concealed by the waistband itself, yielding a more centered and less busy design.  The advantage of an extra hook or button is better trouser support, as they are less likely to move around or cause dress shirts to bunch up.  Two-button designs where both buttons are visible tend to be used more often with trousers without belt loops that require suspenders, while the style that conceals at least one button or hook tends to be used with belt-loop waistbands, but this is not a universal rule.  The only potential disadvantage to this style is the extra time it takes to put the trousers on, although this extra time is rather negligible compared to putting on a bow tie or making sure your cufflinks are securely in place on your dress shirt.  The presence of two buttons or hooks can provide the ultimate balance between support and comfort, as you'll be less likely to continuously adjust your shirt or pants throughout any given evening.  Just keep in mind that the same rule for measurements apply here as well, since no adjustable straps or extra buttons are a substitute for incorrect dimensions.

            In lieu of belts or suspenders, some gentlemen prefer side adjusters and D-ring straps for trouser support.  More commonly found on tuxedo pants that never have belt loops, these handy devices function in the same way as belts and suspenders do without the need for any accessories attached to the pants themselves.  One of the most common complaints when it comes to wearing a belt with a suit is the discomfort some people experience when they have to sit down for long periods of time.  Trousers with side adjusters normally don't cause the same problems, and while you'll never get the same stylish look as you would with a belt, many gentlemen will take the added comfort over any stylistic concerns.

            Functionally, buttons and hooks serve the same purpose of keeping your trousers closed, but one would be surprised at how many gentlemen prefer one over the other.  Buttons have the advantage when it comes to replacement and adjustment, since fixing them doesn't even require a tailor so long as you're somewhat handy with a sewing needle.  If your body dimensions tend to fluctuate, buttons can be moved with relative ease.  The main disadvantage, however, is that buttons tend to come loose over time, especially with repeated use.  They are also vulnerable to small chips and cracks depending on the button's material, so you may end up having to replace them often depending on how frequently you wear a given suit.

            Many would say that hooks are stylistically superior to buttons, and this is certainly true for trouser waistbands without any belt loops.  Hooks, however, are more difficult to replace as they are sewn into the interior of the waistband and stay at relatively fixed positions.  As most hooks are made of metal, they won't ever chip or crack and tend to last much longer than buttons.  The upside to their fixed positions is that hooks are much less likely to come loose and fall off, regardless of how many times you put on a given suit throughout its lifespan.  With hooks, though, the biggest concern is that they don't always provide the same secure support that buttons will, as hooks can become unhinged throughout any given evening or workday.  A properly tailored custom suit, however, shouldn't encounter any of these problems, as proper manufacture and accurate measurements eliminate these issues for the most part.

            For those undecided in the hook vs. button debate, some trouser waistbands offer the best of both worlds, normally with a hook on the inside and a button on the far end.  This style can provide superior support than either a hook or a button alone, and it also protects against potential embarrassing mishaps if one component fails for some reason.  Whether you prefer hooks or buttons, waistband closures are available with or without extensions depending on whether or not you need some extra room.

            One final note worth mentioning is the small split that is sometimes present on trouser waistbands.  While it's certainly not necessary and hardly noticeable to most as they can be smaller than a centimeter in width, some waistbands come with a small split toward the very back held together by loose pairs of stitches.  Occasionally referred to as the tongue-in-cheek after-dinner split, the main purpose of the V split is not to provide extra room after a heavy meal as the name implies, but to allow better movement of the trouser fabric while you sit down.  While this feature is largely something driven by personal preference, some will swear by its added comfort level.

            Whether you're eyeing a custom suit for everyday office use or something more formal to wear for your next evening outing, our clothiers at Enzo Custom will help you to determine the best trouser waistband style to your liking.  With so many options available, step into one of our showrooms, schedule an appointment online, and look no further.

The trouser waistband is not only vital from a functionality perspective but also from a stylistic one.  This central component can determine how your dress shirt fits with the rest of your ensemble, how comfortable you are while you wear it, and how proportional the entire suit looks up close and from afar.

Trouser Waistband Types and How To Determine The Right One For You

Picture yourself getting ready for another day at the office or a formal night out.  Once you've put on your suit and fastened your tie to your liking, the last thing you probably do before you head out the door is check your pockets for your keys, wallet, glasses, cell phone, and maybe a few business cards.  For most of us, we do this automatically without even thinking about it.  In both formal and casual realms, pockets have been standard features on most articles of clothing, and as a result, even if we don't realize it, we tend to take them for granted.  The ease at which we carry our personal items with us today, however, was not always a given.

            Prior to the 17th century, pockets were rather rare, and personal items were instead carried attached to the belt or in a separate bag or purse that the person would take with them.  Of course this practice had its disadvantages, especially at the dawn of rapid industrialization and urban growth.  Without pockets, personal items were easy targets for thieves.  When sewn-in pockets became more commonplace, personal items were carried closer to the body, thereby reducing the chances of a person falling victim to theft.  Although thieves became more creative to counteract this new invention and pick-pocketing became somewhat of an art form, sewn-in pockets made it easier to walk through crowded streets without having to worry as much about personal items going missing.  Over time, pockets became even more inconspicuous as they were sewn into fabrics rather than attached to the outside of the garment.  

            In the last hundred years or so, pockets in men's formal wear have remained relatively standard and consistent.  Most suit jackets now come equipped with inside pockets that aren't visible from the outside of the fabric at all; while the main benefit of this is concealment, inside pockets have had another less obvious unintended consequence, as more of us are required to carry more stuff with us than we were 20 or 30 years ago.  Trying to cram keys, wallets, and cell phones into outside pockets would translate into a potential style faux pas, as doing so might make a suit look like it's bulging at the seams.  So until we figure out a way to carry everything with us in a single device or digital signal embedded into our watches, pockets are here to stay for the time being.  In this article we'll go over the different pocket types and how you can best utilize them to keep yourself looking sharp, even when you're required to carry so many things that you may find yourself feeling like a ticket scalper.

            By and large, the most common types of pockets found on suit jackets are flap pockets and patch pockets.  Although both types are similarly placed toward the bottom sides of the jacket, they differ in how they are sewn onto the garment.  Patch pockets are clearly visible from the outside of the jacket, as the pocket is fixed on the outer part of the jacket whereas flap pockets are sewn into the fabric, concealing the pocket's outline.  As the name clearly suggests, flap pockets are easily recognizable by the flap at the top of the pocket, originally intended to keep outside elements (dust, debris, etc.) from getting onto the pocket's contents.

            While both types serve the same functional purpose, flap pockets are the more formal of the two, and these days it's pretty rare to find patch pockets on a formal suit.  They're more appropriate for other types of less formal outerwear, such as sport coats and overcoats.  Flap pockets are beneficial when it comes to formal wear because they present less visual interruption of a suit's style and symmetry.  Although patch pockets are easier to stitch onto a jacket, their conspicuous outlines detract from their usefulness in the context of formal occasions.

            Jetted pockets, like flap pockets, are sewn into the jacket so the pocket outline cannot be seen from the outside.  However, the top of the pocket only contains a slit rather than a flap for a more streamlined, symmetrical appearance.  Keeping with the mantra of less is more, jetted pockets are considered to be more formal than flap pockets, and some gentlemen prefer to turn their existing flap pockets into jetted ones by folding the outside flap into the pocket for a sleeker look.  While many prefer the look of a suit that minimizes excess material attached to it, the only real downside of jetted pockets is that they tend to be a little smaller than their flapped counterparts.  So if you're the type of person who tends to carry around a lot of personal items with you, you might want to opt for flap pockets instead.

            Almost all varieties of formal jackets come with a breast pocket, normally placed on the left side next to the center of the jacket lapel.  At one point in time, the breast pocket served the functional purpose of keeping personal handkerchiefs separate from other items a person may have been carrying.  These days, the breast pocket is largely cosmetic, serving only as a way to carry another ornamental addition to a formal ensemble that also evolved from the handkerchief.  Pocket squares have largely abandoned their original intended purpose and instead come in an array of patterns and colors that add a tinge of charm to one's formal wear.  If you choose to don a pocket square, be sure to fold them carefully, as breast pockets tend to be narrow and can bulge if a pocket square is stuffed into it haphazardly.

            While breast pockets remain a staple of formal wear, the ticket pocket has largely disappeared.  Originally designed to hold train tickets when traveling, the ticket pocket was generally placed just above the right flap pocket of a person's jacket for easy access.  Although some jackets still retain this relic of a bygone era, they are most commonly seen on overcoats and jackets designed for more casual affairs.  The placement of the ticket pocket just above the right flap or jetted pocket can throw off a jacket's symmetry, thereby reducing its usefulness in formal settings.

            One would be hard-pressed to find any suits, blazers, or other articles of formal outerwear without inside pockets these days, and if anything they've become more common and more numerous.  From its obviously appropriate name, the inside pocket is by far the most inconspicuous pocket type, as neither the opening nor the pocket itself can be seen from the outside of the jacket.  The main benefit of having inside pockets is the heightened privacy and security of your personal items.  Inside pockets allow you to carry your personal items very close to your body and away from plain view, so you can put your mind at ease even if you have to walk through large crowds of people to catch your next train home.

            At the bare minimum, most suit jackets will have an inside pocket placed on the left side of the jacket right behind the breast pocket.  But today it's more common to have two inside pockets, with one on each side.  Some suit jackets may even have more.  As it is also the pocket type with the most versatility, the inside pocket can be used for just about anything, whether you need space for your cell phone, business cards, extra pens, notepads, credit cards, travel documents, or cash.  Bear in mind, however, that it's best not to overload them, as any bulges your personal items may cause will be visible from the outer fabric of the jacket and detract from a suit's aesthetic qualities.

            Just as it would be difficult to find any suit jackets without inside pockets, it would be nearly impossible to come across a pair of formal trousers that didn't have back pockets.  While some gentlemen insist on carrying their wallets in one of their back pockets due to habit or ease of access, we would caution against this practice.  For one, having to sit on your wallet is uncomfortable, especially for lengthy periods of time.  Also, carrying any valuables in your back pocket makes them more prone to theft, as a person will be less likely to notice something missing from there, especially in dense crowds.

            For essential personal items such as wallets or keys, you're better off carrying them in your front pockets.  As far as front pants pockets go, the slant pocket is by far the most common.  The pocket opening is set at an angle from the pant seams, making it easy to slide your hands right in so you can grab whatever you might need.

            Vertical pockets are functionally the same as slant pockets, with one subtle yet important distinction.  The openings of these pockets are parallel to the pant seams, which allow for a sleeker, more uniform look.  As a result, vertical pockets tend to be considered the more formal of the two.

            In the context of formal wear, coin pockets and frogmouth pockets are relatively nonexistent, but they're worth mentioning nonetheless.  The openings of frogmouth pockets are placed horizontally across the front of the pants, and this noticeable feature limits their use in formal settings.  In spite of their relative rarity, you'll be more likely to find frogmouth pockets (or variations thereof) on corduroy pants and jeans.  The same is true for the small coin pocket, usually visible above the opening of the right front pocket if it's present at all.  It's unlikely that you'll see coin pockets on formal trousers, but this useful addition is common on many brands of jeans as a way to keep your change from getting mixed up in your wallet or billfold.

            While there are many components and style considerations that go into creating custom suits, pockets will always remain one of the most vital and functional parts of them.  Here at Enzo Custom, our expert clothiers will always help you balance functionality with style.  Whether you need extra inside pockets or want to give yourself a little more room for a pocket square, we've got you covered.

In both formal and casual realms, pockets have been standard features on most articles of clothing, and as a result, even if we don't realize it, we tend to take them for granted.  The ease at which we carry our personal items with us today, however, was not always a given.

Suit Pockets: A Quick Guide and Keeping Your Formal Wear Functional

One of the greatest joys of owning a custom suit is being able to look your best every time you walk out your front door in the morning.  But of course, like any good thing, keeping a wardrobe full of custom suits comes with its own necessary burdens, as well.  By itself, each trip to the dry cleaners or steam iron replacement purchase doesn't seem like much, especially when you compare it to a typical monthly utility bill.  But if you were to add up those trips and purchases over time, whether you're looking at time or money spent, that numerical figure might surprise you.

            Figures will vary according to the source, but the typical household in the U.S. spends anywhere between $500 and $1500 on dry cleaning costs annually.  That's not exactly pocket change, even for those with comfortable incomes.  Thankfully, there are creative ways to reduce this figure without resorting to wearing the same suit over and over again until your employer tells you to go home and take a shower.

            While it might seem counterintuitive, owning multiple suits will save you laundry trips, and depending on the local dry cleaning business in your neighborhood, you might even get discounts for bringing in multiple items at a time.  Each suit will also wear out at a much slower rate than they would if you owned fewer suits, thereby extending each one's longevity.

            Hanging your suits up after each use will also reduce the number of times you'll have to iron, launder, or dry clean them.  As an added bonus, a little proper storage goes a long way.  Your suits are less likely to come into contact with any dust, dirt, or unwanted grime when they're safely hanging up in your closet with protective coverings rather than crumpled up next to your nightstand or strewn about all over your living room furnishings.

            That being said, even when you dot your Is and cross all of your Ts, there are things you might have to do that go beyond regular dry cleaning trips and keeping your suits safely on your closet rack, especially if you have non-human members of your household.  If you haven't gathered it already, yes, we're talking about your pets.

            While we're always ecstatic to greet them after a long day at the office, we might not be so thrilled all the time with how much pet hair and animal dander can get stuck to not only our clothes but also pretty much everything.  But these extra considerations are well worth the companionship, and in this article we'll iron out what you can do to keep your formal wear looking neat and sharp if you're one of the lucky ones who happen to live in a pet household.

            Here at Enzo Custom, we can never stress enough the importance of properly maintaining your wardrobe.  By taking care of your shirts, suits, jackets, trousers, and other articles of formal wear, everything in your closet will last longer and you'll spend less time going to the dry cleaners and your tailor.  But in pet households, maintenance shouldn't stop at your closet door.  Keeping up with maintenance and routine cleaning of your entire home will undoubtedly give you more peace of mind.

            We've all been guilty of it at some point or another.  It's very easy to use a long and intense workweek as an excuse to spend your weekend doing nothing but vegging out on the couch in front of the TV and sleeping in.  But rather than doing that all weekend, it would be wise to take at least some of that free time to dust off that vacuum cleaner in your utility closet and get reacquainted.   Even if you're a strictly shoes-off kind of person and you're very careful not to spill anything on your living room carpet, your dogs and cats will shed.  And they'll shed a lot, especially during the summer months.  Unfortunately for you, a majority of what they shed will end up on the carpet sooner or later, through no fault of their own.  And much of that can make its way onto your work clothes, as even the smallest of air currents can transport large amounts of pet hair great distances throughout your living space.  While vacuuming your floors weekly won't get rid of every single strand of pet hair in your home, it will reduce it to more manageable levels.

            Clean carpets and floors will translate into cleaner air that's free of dust and pet debris, along with anything they might track in from the outside when you take them for a walk or let them roam freely in your yard.

            While regular vacuuming can prevent pet hair from accumulating, proper maintenance doesn't just stop there.  Routine dusting of bookshelves, ceiling fan blades, cabinets, and counter spaces in conjunction with vacuuming will keep your home mostly free and clear of pet debris, thereby reducing the chances that your formal wear and suits will take on the same color as your pet's fur in a matter of days.  We totally understand that vacuuming and dusting are about as exhilarating as getting a root canal at the dentist, but these chores will go a long way in keeping your formal wear clean and sharp.  It would be frivolous and unnecessary to do these routine tasks every day, but doing them at least once a week—or once every two weeks at a bare minimum—should be sufficient enough.

            Bear in mind that if you're lucky enough not to have any carpet in your home at all, keeping your living space free and clear of pet fur will be easier, whether you're dealing with hardwood, tile, or linoleum.  Some people find sweeping and mopping hard surfaces in lieu of vacuuming to be comparatively effortless, but if you go this route, at least make sure you're keeping to a regular schedule you can follow.  As with vacuuming carpet, once every week or every two should do the trick.

            When it comes to your pets, your home furnishings can act like magnets for anything that they shed or track in from the outside.  This is especially true for things like couches, chairs, bedspreads, or anything else made from cloth fabric.  While it's tempting to immediately plop down on your sofa after the workday is over, you're better off taking the extra minute or two to hang up your formal wear before you do.  In addition to this easy step, just as you would pay closer attention to vacuuming your floors, you might also want to take a vacuum extender and go over the couch cushions from time to time.  Doing so will keep your suits and dress shirts from coming into contact with anything that your pet sheds or tracks in.

            The same general principle applies to your vehicle, as well.  If the interior of your vehicle has cloth seats, you may want to hang up your jacket on the way to the office and put it on only after you've arrived at your destination.  Over time, getting in and out of your car will transport any pet hair from your home into your seats and potentially onto your office attire.  In between full-service car washes where they may vacuum the interior of your vehicle, consider purchasing a pet roller that can pick up any excess pet hair from your seats, as using one is a very quick and effective way in reducing the amount of debris that ends up on your work clothes.  For practical purposes, it's best to keep one in your car and another one inside your home, as you can use them on just about anything, including your interior furnishings when you want to stay on top of routine maintenance between more thorough weekly cleaning sessions.

            One of the easiest ways to ensure that your suits remain free and clear of pet hair and other debris is to do the rest of your laundry more frequently than you would otherwise.  This includes bedding, towels, everyday informal wear, and linens.  As we've stressed before, pet hair can get into everything, and by maintaining a higher standard of cleanliness, you'll reduce the amount of stray floating debris that can be transferred to other materials very easily, even when you think you're being extra careful.

            Just as most people would agree that cleaning and vacuuming is not exactly a Saturday afternoon at an amusement park, neither is changing out your air conditioning/HVAC filters in your home.  But staying on top of this task will also reduce the amount of stray pet hair that's easily transferred from your furnishings to your wardrobe.  As different climates require different standards when it comes to changing your air conditioning filters, it's hard to pin down exactly how many times you should do this every year.  The general rule of thumb is at least once every three months, but if you live in a pet household, you should do this more frequently, perhaps one and a half times as often as you otherwise would.

            One last tip to keep in mind is for cat owners specifically.  Lots of people tend to have an out-of-sight-out-of-mind mentality for litter box placement, leading them to think that placing it in a closet is a great idea.  We would recommend against doing this and instead opt for an area of your home that's more open, such as a kitchen or laundry room so long as you have adequate space.  This will not only make cleaning easier but also prevent any sand from being anywhere near your formal wear.  Your cat will be happier too, as they won't feel so confined.

While caring for your wardrobe and your pets simultaneously is a challenge sometimes, it's certainly not impossible, and following these pointers will continue to keep you looking sharp and your pets happy and healthy.

While we're always ecstatic to greet them after a long day at the office, we might not be so thrilled all the time with how much pet hair and animal dander can get stuck to not only our clothes but also pretty much everything.  But these extra considerations are well worth the companionship, and in this article we'll iron out what you can do to keep your formal wear looking neat and sharp if you're one of the lucky ones who happen to live in a pet household.

Suit Care For Pet Households

When most people go out shopping for a new suit, the first thing that comes to mind is how it looks.  As far as office attire and evening formal wear is concerned, no one is going to seek out anything with comically oversized shoulder pads or plaid patches that appear to be the only things holding the entire suit together.  But just as style is a vital selling point, so are structural integrity and accurate measurements.  A custom suit is only as good as the customer and the tailor want it to be.

            Off-the-rack options abound at large department-store chains, and suits of this variety are very popular with gentlemen who are lucky enough to never run into too many issues when it comes to measurements and last-minute tailoring.  While these suits are designed to fit a broader spread of measurement deviations, it's almost never going to be quite the same as opting for the custom route.  At first glance it might appear that you're saving time and money by walking out the door with several suits in under an hour.  But how long will they really last?  How structurally sound are they?  And how easy is it to alter them later on?

            One of the biggest issues with off-the-rack suits is that you don't always know what you're getting.  While you might fit perfectly with one manufacturer or brand, another may have problems with the tightness of the chest or trousers that are either too long or too short if you go up or down a size.  It's true that a tailor can fix most of these issues, but a suit will always fit better when these kinks can be figured out before the suit is put together rather than afterwards.

            A custom tailor will know exactly how to balance a suit's structure with your desired style based on your measurements, as it is oftentimes better to work with a blank canvas than it is to fix one that's already been thrown together.  With our combined decades of experience, we've seen everything from bulky shoulder pads to flexible waistlines as attempts from manufacturers to offset subpar structure and dimension problems.  Custom tailors will never resort to cheap gimmicks or shortcuts, as they care more about your repeat business than they do volume.  Because of this careful attention to detail, custom suits tend to not only fit better but also last longer.

            One of the most important elements of a suit's structural integrity is thread count; it also matters with regard to style albeit to a lesser degree.  Unlike thread counts that apply to linens or bedding, more is not always better.  For example, a wool suit with a thread count of 250 might be soft and very fine to the touch, but it is also more vulnerable to premature wear and disintegration at a quicker pace.  Conversely, a similar wool suit with a thread count of 70 can look cheap and may have more fitting problems than one would expect.  Depending on the quality of the individual fiber strands, most tailors know to shoot for that sweet spot between 120 and 200 to find that perfect balance between fit and structural durability.

            A custom tailor will also know that an ideal thread count varies based on the suit material.  Linen suits, which are highly popular during the summer months because of their superior ability in keeping your body cool and comfortable, require a lower thread count than wool suits because the individual strands are larger.  Keep this in mind when you go shopping for your next custom suit, as the thread count number isn't ever going to be the only indicator of superior quality.

--The Dreaded Shoulder Pads, And Why Most Of Us Are Glad They're Gone--

            Well, they're not completely gone.  Every suit has some form of padding in the shoulder, but in the present moment they serve a more practical purpose than an aesthetic one.  This, of course, was not always so.

            It's hard to remember the 1980s and early 1990s without the shoulder pads' rise in popularity alongside gaudy McMansions, high interest rates, and excessive use of overdubs and synthesizers in music.  It seemed as if the more extravagant something appeared to be, the more appealing it was to have it.  The fashion of the time reflected this mindset, and prominent shoulder pads were perhaps most ubiquitous and noticeable in women's formal wear.  A side effect of this trend was that formal wear tended to have a better built-in durability thanks to all that extra padding.  

            Although posh and trendy at the time, in retrospect the conspicuous shoulder pads look rather dated, as fashion trends have slowly adopted a subtler, more minimalist aesthetic that emphasizes practicality over extravagance.  While they're still necessary when it comes to certain blazers, overcoats, and heavier jackets for both men and women, a little tends to go a long way when we're dealing with gentlemen's suits, tuxedos, and other articles of formal wear.  Too much padding in the shoulder will have the same effect as wearing a neon-green tuxedo to a black-tie dinner, and while there's nothing wrong with standing out, it's better to do it in a tasteful way.  Shoulder pads aside, there are more effective ways in maintaining that delicate balance between durability and personal style, depending on the type of suit that fits best for your individual tastes.

            Depending on your individual measurements, you might find that you look best in a particular suit style that falls more or less into three main categories.  In one of our previous articles, we highlighted the hallmarks of British, American, and Italian suit styles.  Just as each type can enhance your overall personal style, there are structural benefits to each one, too, as style can have a great deal of impact on a suit's structure and vice versa.

            The American-style suit tends to work best with gentlemen who have average or larger body types, as it is generally roomier than its British and Italian counterparts.  Even gentlemen of other body types will sometimes favor the American-style suit because of this added comfort and extra room.  While not as sharp-edged as other suit types from a style standpoint, American could be the way to go if you need something primarily to wear to the office on a regular basis.

            Structurally, American-style suits also tend to be quite resilient, as the more loose-fitting tapers of them won't feel the strain from fluctuations in body dimensions as easily.  Be aware, however, that a suit with more dimensional room can be more prone to snags over time.  Such a minor issue can be avoided with proper care and maintenance, so be sure to keep an eye out for loose threads, hang them up once you're done wearing them, and pay visits to your local dry cleaner every so often.  Whether American or other type, custom suits will encounter any problems far less frequently than off-the-rack options will.

              In contrast to its American counterpart, the Italian-style suit is recognizable by its prominent taper and contours to an individual's body dimensions.  What an Italian suit might lack in extra room makes up for it with a sharp, sleek appearance, ideal for both the workplace and formal nights out.  Italian-style suits work best in mild Mediterranean climates, where you won't have to worry as much about extra layers or bulky accessories.  In climates that lean toward the hotter side, you may want to opt for linen, as this will compensate for the tighter fit as far as comfort goes.

            Due to its more contoured fit, Italian-style suits might end up at your tailor more often than you'd like, especially if your body dimensions tend to fluctuate from time to time.  While this is perfectly normal, there is less wiggle room with Italian-style suits, as they tend to fit best on individuals with measurements on the slighter side. As a result, keeping them looking sharp requires a little more maintenance than American or British-style suits, so it's beneficial to find a tailor who can make minor adjustments and fixes as needed.

            British-style suits tend to represent the happy medium between the free-flowing American and contoured Italian styles, balancing both comfort and fashion sense without compromising either aspect too much.  In contrast to American-style suits, British ones are noticeably more tapered with a higher waistline, but still afford plenty of room for an additional layer when the weather gets cold.  The armholes also tend to be higher and there is less break in the pant legs, which can sometimes give the illusion of greater height and stature from afar.  The suit canvas is also generally more rigid, providing a sturdier form.

            While you won't encounter too much fuss with a British suit from a structural standpoint, bear in mind that you may need to pay attention more closely to the finer details of a British-style suit when you're making adjustments with your tailor.  With alterations, there is less room for error than there is with an American-style suit where you'll have more material to work with.

            No matter what you're looking for in your next custom suit, whether you put more stock in style, comfort, or structural durability, Enzo Custom has your bases covered.  Our expert clothiers will get you fitted appropriately for all your different—and sometimes seemingly conflicting—concerns as they relate to fashion sense as well as sound structure and comfort level.  Step into one of our showrooms today, or if you feel more comfortable at home you can meet with one of our experts via videoconference.

When most people go out shopping for a new suit, the first thing that comes to mind is how it looks.  But just as style is a vital selling point, so are structural integrity and accurate measurements.  A custom suit is only as good as the customer and the tailor want it to be.

Custom Suits: Balancing Structure With Style

A functional wardrobe is a small but significant investment in any gentleman's life, and what better way to maximize your closet's lifespan with a solid rotation of long-lasting, comfortable, and perfectly fitting formal wear. When properly maintained and cared for, both formal and casual clothing can last years, if not decades. But every now and again, especially with heavy use, suits can eventually lose their luster over time. Buttons fall off. Threads unravel. Zippers get stuck. Seams stretch. These are all parts of normal wear and tear, but there are sometimes ways to minimize these clothing pitfalls or at the very least, slow the progressive material deterioration down.

For starters, proper storage can go a long way in keeping your suits neat, pristine, functional, and stylish. Hanging them up after each use, getting them properly cleaned every so often, and keeping protective barriers around them can make the difference between a few years and a few career moves. Staying on top of loose buttons and threads also helps, so it's always a good idea to familiarize yourself with a basic rudimentary understanding of sewing and stitching, as this can save you money over time when you can take care of small repairs and fixes without having to shell money out to a tailor for every little issue.

But all material goods have a finite lifespan, some longer than others. Whether it's the car you drive, your personal computer, or your custom suit that you purchased long ago, there comes a point at which keeping something in operational condition becomes more expensive and time-consuming than simply buying a new

one. In the realm of formal wear, if you're constantly making fixes and adjustments to your suits and tuxedos, it's probably time to consider shopping around for a replacement or two.

--Keeping Up With Minor Repairs or Getting That New Suit?--

Although it may seem inconsequential at first glance, keeping your wardrobe up to snuff involves a bit of cost-benefit analysis just like anything else. And of course, some problems are much easier to remedy than others.

One of the most common problems any gentleman will encounter with formal wear is the integrity of the suit buttons. In some cases it's a matter of material integrity; buying a discounted suit off the rack at a big-box department store will probably yield more button problems over time than a suit made by a custom tailor. This is simply a function of cost, as the big-box guys tend to use the least amount of thread possible to keep the buttons secure on the jacket. Over time, the constant buttoning and unbuttoning will slowly force the button threads to loosen, making it more likely for the buttons to fall off and therefore reduce the functionality of your suit. Fortunately, tightening and reattaching suit buttons are relatively easy fixes that hardly require any time at all. Even if you have no idea how to sew threads together, you can always take your suit to a tailor, where they can attach the buttons with extra thread to minimize the chance they'll come loose again.

Stray threads are yet another common problem. We've all been guilty of it at one point or another; a loose thread can easily be twisted, pulled off, and stowed away in your pocket to keep your outfit looking brand new. While doing this once

or twice may not cause any immediate problems, the repeated breaking of loose threads will ultimately cause more loose threads and in severe cases, ruin the structural integrity of the jacket, which can lead to fraying and unraveling over time. It's just that you may not notice the damage you're doing at first.

A better way to fix loose threads is to thread your sewing needle (if you have one) and pull it through the snag, creating a loop as you pull the thread closer in. Then you can use the end to tie a small knot and close the loop, cutting off the small amount of excess thread still hanging down. This greatly reduces the chance that your suit will unravel at some point and also prevents the same snag from occurring in the future.

While it's much less common for zippers on suit trousers to break than it is for the same thing to occur when you're dealing with cheaply made duvet covers or pillow cases, it occasionally does happen. Whether it's the slider not functioning properly or the teeth not fully closing, this can be a cause of concern that ranges from the annoying to the embarrassing. Quick home remedies abound; you can use graphite pencils or lip balm to smooth out the teeth and opt for a small key ring in place of the zipper pull when you're in a bind. But when you're dealing with formal wear, these solutions aren't great from a style standpoint. Most custom tailors can replace the zipper for a nominal fee, and most estimates are well below the $20 range. If any problems still persist afterwards, it may not be the zipper itself but rather the material around it. If you start to notice more loose threads and snags, it might be time to consider getting a new pair of suit pants that don't have as many issues with quality control, as this can save you time and money in the long run.

Trouser cuffs serve both a functional and stylistic purpose. Their presence can minimize the likelihood of fraying at the bottom of your suit pants and they also can bring down the formality level of an outfit when the occasion calls for it. Cuffs, however, are not immune to fraying problems. If you walk to work or travel frequently, you'll probably notice loose threads down at the base of your pants more often than you would if your occupation requires a more stationary position the majority of the time. When this happens, you can fix these types of cuff issues as you would any other loose thread or snag problem on other parts of your suit, so long as you catch these problems before they snowball. If you continue to notice fraying at the bottom of your pants even after constant fixes and additional threading, there may be something wrong with your trousers as it relates to structural integrity. Depending on how your suit was made, the thread count might be inappropriate for the material used in its manufacture. When shopping for a new suit, it's important to pay attention to not only thread count but also the material used. If these components are balanced properly, you're less likely to encounter any fraying issues that have the potential to ruin your wardrobe when you can't keep them under control.

Thankfully, lapels don't usually encounter the same problems that cuffs, buttons, and zippers do, as there is less friction to worry about. If you notice any problems with your lapels at all, it's likely due to a fit and measurement problem. With a properly tailored suit, your lapels should lay flat across your chest. If you notice that they look asymmetrical or jut out, even to the slightest degree, the chest measurements of the suit are probably too tight. Unfortunately this is not an easy

fix, and your best option if you encounter this problem is to consider purchasing a new suit altogether. When you do, just make sure that you get properly fitted with a reputable tailor to avoid this issue in the future. The same goes for problems with bumps in the suit shoulder or too much space behind the back collar. Proper measurements for your next suit will ensure that these issues do not arise.

Just as proper measurements are vital to the functionality of any suit, the material you select can have a huge impact on your suit's longevity. Wool continues to be the gold standard for gentlemen's formal wear across the globe because of its superior wicking properties along with its durable nature, so long as it is cared for and maintained properly. For those seeking additional durability along with a better price point, wool/cotton blends are another great fabric choice. Linen is also popular, especially in the summer due to its lightweight nature and ability to keep the body cooler than other heavier materials. As a suit material, linen sports a robust durability as well due to the thicker nature of each strand of fabric, which allows linen suits to get away with a lower thread count than its wool and blended counterparts.

As we have stressed before, thread count is an important factor to consider when you're weighing in on a suit's potential longevity. If you're shopping around for a new suit and you love the touch and feel of wool, it's best to stick to a thread count anywhere between 100 and 170, as this balances fineness with durability. Be aware that opting for a thread count over 200 on wool suits isn't always advisable; it may be fine to the touch, but it is more likely to encounter snags, loose threads, and durability issues more quickly. The same rules apply to wool/cotton blends. Linen thread counts tend to be lower, even going as low as 80, but the strength of the individual strands allows for it.

While issues with stray threads, loose buttons, and even stuck zippers are relatively easy to fix, the biggest problems in the realm of formal wear are caused by improper measurements, which is why it is so important to seek out reputable custom tailors when you decide it's time for an upgrade. Here at Enzo Custom, we'll make sure that your suit measurements are precise to your body dimensions so you'll get the most out of your custom suit in terms of style, longevity, and durability. Stop into one of our showrooms today, or if you feel more comfortable at home feel free to speak with one of our expert clothiers via videoconference.

When properly maintained and cared for, both formal and casual clothing can last years, if not decades. But every now and again, especially with heavy use, suits can eventually lose their luster over time.

Loose Buttons, Stray Threads, and Frayed Zippers, Or, When It's Time To Buy A New Suit

We've all been in a bit of a bind before when it comes to formal events. Maybe your best friend's wedding is only just around the corner, or you're scheduled to speak at a company event that's only two days away. As you open up your closet to put on your suit that's been hanging up all the way in the back ever since you moved in, you come to realize that you can't even zip up your trousers without lying down on your bed as if you were trying to squeeze into a tight pair of jeans you'd wear out to a night at the club. At this point, you have two options. You can either tough it out in the suit you have at your disposal, sacrificing comfort in the process. Or you can dart out to a big-box suit retailer and hope and pray that one of the suits off the rack will be close enough to your measurements and desired comfort level.

As it goes with anything, prevention is always better than treating the problem after it occurs. When people need a suit at the last minute, their first inclination is going to be rushing out to a department store, where measurements—if the salespeople do any at all—will be quick and the suits on the rack are designed to fit the approximate average of a person's dimensions within a size range, rather than individually tailored. While department stores and big-box retailers are beneficial in a pinch when you're strapped for time and have no other options, in the future your style choices will be limited if you continue to shop for suits this way. As we are all creatures of habit, it's tempting to put off our clothes shopping until we actually have to do it, but for wardrobe functionality and versatility, this is almost never the best way to go about things.

While it might be too late to get fitted for a custom suit if your grand evening event is tomorrow, you can better plan ahead in the future. By going with a custom tailor, perhaps a month in advance for the sake of example, you'll have more time to select your fabric, your color, the style of your suit, and get the best measurements possible for your body type and comfort level.

Here at Enzo Custom, we offer 1000 different suit fabrics just to get you started, whether you're looking for a budget-friendly Super 130s Wool Navy Solid or a more top-of-the-line 100 percent Cashmere grey. National chains and big-box department stores normally don't have anywhere near that number of fabrics at any given time when you're browsing their racks. When you factor in lapel styles, button closures, pockets, waistbands, cuffs, vents, your personal measurements, and other style considerations that we offer, the potential number of combinations easily exceeds the quadrillion mark, making your choices infinite for all practical purposes. When you go custom, you no longer need to limit yourself to what you might be able to scrounge up at the end of the day on your typical run-of-the-mill department store suit rack.

So before you rush out to one of the big-box guys, consider the many benefits of Enzo Custom that go beyond just the stratospheric number of style combinations for your newest addition to your wardrobe.

While some department store chains may offer some form of limited tailoring and alteration, there are times when they might be understaffed and forced to burden their customers with long wait times between appointments, especially in

the months leading into summer where volume is high and weddings and proms abound. It is true that going to a custom tailor may take some additional effort on your part in terms of scheduling things in advance, but the extra planning is certainly worth the service you'll be getting in return.

Consider how a department store takes your measurements whenever you're looking to buy a new suit. Generally, they are done while you're wearing the suit you plan to purchase, which means those measurements will only go so far. The tailors in the big-box stores are pretty much limited to minor alterations on a premade suit that will never be 100 percent precise to your dimensions. When you go with a custom tailor, your measurements are taken before they even weave the suit's component parts together, thereby increasing accuracy and precision when it comes to individual fit. Only after the suit is made do they take your measurements again to adjust for minor deviations from your body dimensions if necessary. With such an extra step in place, you can rest assured that you won't get a better fit anywhere else, so long as the tailor is experienced and reputable.

Just as expert tailors are always expected to know their craft, Enzo Custom's clothiers have combined experience spanning decades. With this knowledge comes the ability to apply it to a breadth of situations—or wisdom as it is sometimes referred—since our clothiers have likely seen it all. This cumulative wisdom goes beyond merely ensuring accurate and precise measurements. If you're wondering whether or not to go with a certain fabric, what type of shoes would fit best with

your personal style, or how you should fold your pocket square in order to look your very best, they'll have an answer for you.

Most importantly, our clothiers will make sure that the process of buying a suit is as painless as possible. One of the many drawbacks of going to some of the bigger chains and department stores is the crowds of people, not to mention the unnecessary wait times to get fitted. At Enzo Custom, your appointments with our clothiers will always be conducted on an individual basis and scheduled in advance so you can have their full attention when you show up to get fitted. Just as it is the mantra of many custom tailors worldwide, it is better to do a job the right way rather than the quickest way. With the ability to focus on only one client at a time, your measurements and style considerations can be assessed with unmatched accuracy, and you will never feel like you're being shuttled out the door to make room for more customers.

Another benefit to our custom approach is that we'll keep your measurements on file to expedite the process the next time you want to come in and add another suit to your wardrobe. Unless your body dimensions have changed measurably, you might only have to come in if you need some last-minute alterations to the finished product.

--Get Your Suits On Your Time, Not Someone Else's--

With Enzo Custom, you'll be able to buy suits designed specifically for you, on your time and your time only. Your initial appointment with us doesn't even require you to be present at one of our showrooms.

While we always stress that you'll never get a better measurement than you will in person, current circumstances and personal preferences don't always line up with ideal conditions. In lieu of in-person appointments, you may opt to speak with one of our clothiers via videoconference from the privacy of your own home. If you choose to go this convenient and alternative route, you can get measured locally and forward those measurements to us so we can get you into the suit you've always wanted as soon as possible.

Whether you're in a huge rush or have plenty of time to wait, our appointment slots can accommodate even the busiest of schedules. As we mentioned before, however, it's best not to schedule anything too close to the last minute, as we want your buying experience to be a memorable one in a good way. By scheduling your appointment in advance, you'll have ample time to browse through the 1000 fabrics we have to offer as well as narrow down the style of your new suit, down to every last stitch and button.

The Enzo Custom experience wouldn't be complete without those wonderful things that really tie a suit together. When applied correctly, your ties, cufflinks, belts, overcoats, and pocket squares can really do wonders for complementing your formal personal style. Just as you can customize your suits to your personal liking, you can do the same with our overcoats, waistcoats, shirts, trousers and standalone jackets such as sport coats and blazers to give you a truly full custom experience.

Although formal wear isn't going away anytime soon, relaxed office dress codes and wider acceptance of casual wear for an increasing number of engagements has made it more difficult to find a good tailor in a lot of places. With Enzo Custom, you'll never have to look any further. As we offer 1000 fabrics to choose from, you will have no trouble at all finding one that fits not only your style preferences but also your practical concerns. You won't have to spend an arm and a leg to get just the right look, either. Whether obtaining the finest of fabrics or sticking to budgetary concerns is your top priority, we can offer you the best of both, and everything in between. If you're ready to make that leap into a new custom suit and experience custom tailoring as it should be, don't hesitate to step into one of our showrooms, where one of our expert clothiers will get you fitted. If you feel more comfortable at home, feel free to set up an online appointment where we'll take your measurements at the click of a button. It really is that easy.

1000 Fabrics And Counting: Why Custom Makes All The Difference

It's no surprise that the standard two-piece suit has become the dominant fashion trend in most formal settings around the world, especially as formal wear has lost a little bit of its former midcentury glory and prestige.  With office dress codes skewing more casual—even more so as of late—and white-tie events going all but extinct, formal wear has become more minimalist, uniform, and simplified.  Of course this isn't necessarily a bad thing; getting ready for special outings takes much less time than it used to and gentlemen are no longer burdened with having to keep an entire closet exclusively dedicated to formal wear.  The modern conveniences of no longer having to put on a tuxedo to board a cruise ship or eat at fancy restaurants is certainly something to celebrate rather than deride.  But sometimes we all long for that former charm, largely missing from the modern-day cocktail party, board meeting, and evening soirée.  Save designated black-tie events, weddings, and a select few awards ceremonies, the tuxedo can sometimes be too much, drawing attention to your style preferences rather than your charming personality.  But the three-piece suit is an alternative means to meet that former formal glory halfway.

            The origins of the three-piece suit can be traced back to the mid 17th Century, when King Charles II of Britain encouraged the wearing of vests (or waistcoats as they are also known) as a way to pump up the wool trade.  In the 19th Century, Beau Brummell, the man largely responsible for the toning-down of formal wear that ultimately replaced elaborate and complicated garments, was also instrumental in turning the waistcoat into standard bespoke flair.

            Although the three-piece suit has declined in popularity since its peak in the middle of the 20th Century, it is still able to hold a niche interest; as formal events are rarer overall, some gentlemen are more inclined to deck themselves out whenever the opportunity arises, and the three-piece suit is a simple yet elegant way to give one's style that extra edge it might be missing.

            In this article, we'll give you all the ins and outs of the three-piece suit, including special considerations, what you'll need with it, how to wear it, and how to use it to your advantage by illuminating your personal style.  After all, the three-piece suit is more than just a regular suit with an added vest.

            While all formal suits come equipped with jackets and trousers, the addition of the waistcoat is the main component that differentiates the three-piece suit from its more common two-piece counterpart.  Simply by virtue of this extra layer, three-piece suits have the added benefit of providing more insulation to your person during the colder months out of the year, allowing you to think twice about having to lug around a heavy overcoat just to stay comfortable.  Three-piece suits also tend to be made from heavier wool than two-piece ones; while this isn't standard across the board, it's common enough to consider adding a three-piece suit to your wardrobe if you happen to live in more frigid climates.

            Other than staying comfortable in the cold, three-piece suits will enhance your overall style with very minimal effort.  As the old adage goes, a classic never dies, and the three-piece suit is more than capable of resurrecting those past sensibilities of class and sophistication that are sometimes absent in more modern, dressed down apparel selections.  When the occasion calls for it, don't be shy about rocking a three-piece suit, as you'll certainly appear more confident and collected as far as your own personal style goes.

            A beneficial unintended consequence of owning a selection of three-piece suits is the effortless increase in wardrobe permutations by default at your disposal.  For those more casual occasions on warmer days where a full suit is not required, you'll have a plethora of vests to choose from when all you need is something on the business-casual side of things.  Even when a particular outing still calls for a blazer, you can, in a pinch, get away with using one of your suit jackets as a sport coat without raising any eyebrows.  While you'll still look your best in a full three-piece suit, this added flexibility can come in handy when you need formal wear or some combination thereof at short notice.

            Before we get into some of the finer points of style surrounding the three-piece suit, we wouldn't be completely comprehensive about them if we didn't cover some of the minor drawbacks that can arise with them.

            Due to the heavier nature of the material and the added vest layer that are both beneficial in the winter, three-piece suits aren't always the best pieces of formal wear to strut around town during the summer.  For events outside, a three-piece suit can be especially troubling when your goal is to stay cool and comfortable.  The waistcoat sometimes has a tendency to make the rest of your outfit bunch up more easily, but this can be mitigated with proper measurements and fitting.

            For some outings and events, a three-piece suit might just be a bit too much, even when you're trying to be subtle about your superiority in style.  As events during the day tend to be less formal than those held at night, you might want to opt for a more modern two-piece suit when you're required to be formal during daylight hours and save the three-piece suit for evening affairs.

            Just as the waistcoat once served a more practical purpose for the tuxedo, the same can be said for three-piece suits.  Although vests today are more of a fashion statement than anything else, they were once a necessity to conceal suspenders that at one time were considered to be an undergarment.  As a result, the three-piece isn't very suited to accommodate belts at all.  This pairing would not only look awkward but also cause problems with bunching up, fit, and comfort.  If your measurements are just right, then you don't really need any extra pant support.  But if you want to be on the safe side, opt for suspenders in lieu of a belt.  They will keep your pants from sagging down and as a result, your dress shirt won't protrude through the lower part of your waistcoat.  The last thing you want is to grapple with a belt buckle snagging on your vest when you stand up or sit down, and there's a reason why most pants made for three-piece suits don't have any belt loops at all.  This isn't so much of a drawback as it is a practical consideration, so logic would follow that if you don't see belt loops, don't even think about using one.

            Just as the same general rule applies to two-piece suits, the jacket, trousers, and vest of a three-piece suit are all designed to match each other.  In the context of formal occasions, it's best not to deviate from this rule, even if you might be tempted to mix and match your vests and your jackets.  The latter should only be reserved for casual affairs or when you're not required to wear a jacket.  A mismatched vest or any other suit component will stick out like a sore thumb otherwise, and you're better off complementing your personal style rather than detracting from it.

            Another important yet often overlooked style concern is how to button your waistcoat.  As the rule goes for suit jackets and tuxedos, the bottom button of your vest should always be left unbuttoned.  While this is mainly a point of style that has survived for decades if not longer, leaving the last button open will also allow for more flexibility and comfort when you stand up or sit down.  Keep in mind, however, that the waistcoat should cover the bottom part of your shirt to ensure aesthetic uniformity of the suit fabric from your feet all the way up to your shoulders.  Any part of your shirt that protrudes between the waistline and the bottom of your vest will tarnish any semblance of style sophistication you'd want to achieve with a three-piece suit.

            Per the aforementioned style consideration, proper measurements when it comes to three-piece suits are especially important.  Since belts are out of the question as we mentioned previously, a proper fit will ensure that your suit stays presentable and comfortable throughout its lifespan.  If you need extra support to keep your trousers sitting at the natural waistline, opt for suspenders that button into the inside of the pants; never use the clip-on variety, and that goes for other types of formal wear, as well.

            Given the heavier nature of the material associated with three-piece suits and the added vest layer, we would suggest that you wear a shirt that's made from a lighter material such as silk, linen, light wool, or blended cotton.  Any flannels or heavier wools are bound to cause discomfort, especially in warmer climates.

            When you sit down, you should make it a habit of unbuttoning your suit jacket but not the waistcoat.  This will give you more wiggle room at the dinner table and will also prevent the suit from bunching up.  The same etiquette goes for tuxedos and standard two-piece suits as well.

            As with all suits, it's best not to wear a shirt that's the same color as your vest, jacket, and trousers.  While any suit should be uniform in its fabric all the way through, your shirt should add a slight amount of softness and contrast to your outfit.  The only exception to this rule might be wearing black on black (i.e. black suit, black vest, black shirt, black tie, etc.), but this look is often too monochromatic and too severe for many people to pull off well.  If you choose to go that route, we'd suggest that you do it sparingly.

            One final style consideration to keep in mind is your socks.  Because the waistline is generally higher with a three-piece suit than it is with its two-piece counterparts, you especially need to make sure that your socks are high enough to accommodate cuffs that are slightly higher as well, in particular when you are sitting down. 

            If you're ready to make the leap toward adding a three-piece custom suit to your wardrobe, feel free to stop into an Enzo Custom showroom where an expert clothier will take your measurements and answer all your questions.  If you feel more comfortable at home, you can also schedule an appointment with us via videoconference.

It's no surprise that the standard two-piece suit has become the dominant fashion trend in most formal settings around the world, especially as formal wear has lost a little bit of its former midcentury glory and prestige.  With office dress codes skewing more casual—even more so as of late—and white-tie events going all but extinct, formal wear has become more minimalist, uniform, and simplified.  But the three-piece suit is an alternative means to meet that former formal glory halfway.

A Comprehensive Guide To Three-Piece Suits

Nothing really comes close to the ease at which a custom suit fits around the contours of the body. When you go custom, every single stitch of your suit's fabric is put together with your comfort and style exclusively in mind. Longtime customers swear by it, and recent converts more often than not never look back at off-the-rack options available in big-box department stores. With a suit that's made just for you, gone are the days where you have to worry about your collars bunching up or trousers that are either too tight or too baggy.

But even suits made with the perfect fit in mind are not immune from the one universal thing that keeps tailors around the globe in business. And that thing would be us, or that annoying tendency for everyone's dimensions and body shape to change over periods of time. Whether you overindulged during Thanksgiving and Christmas or started that fad diet that's really paying off, these fluctuations happen to all of us, and often at very inconvenient times. It's always disappointing when you have a wedding coming up and your tuxedo no longer is as snug as it used to be, or your best suit barely accommodates a tucked-in dress shirt for an important cocktail party just around the corner. So what can we do about these inconveniences, other than have a wardrobe the size of an entire department store rack?

Going to a tailor or even buying a new suit are the likely options that first come to mind; perhaps even a new belt or shedding a layer or two might seem like a quick fix in a pinch. We'll certainly touch on these remedies, but there might be a better way to stay one step ahead of the body's tendency to be a stubborn creature

of habit. Purchasing a handful of suits ahead of time within your expected size ranges might just allow you to account for all those dimensional fluctuations in the future, but as you already know this isn't the only way to deal with such a problem that we've all encountered at some point or another. In this piece, we'll give you options for what to do whether you gain some or lose some over the course of a year.

Whether your suit feels like it's bursting at the seams or floating around you like parachute pants from the '90s, fitting problems are normally handled first and foremost by a custom tailor. You take your suit in, the tailor takes your measurements, they make the necessary adjustments, and you're on your merry way. Going to a tailor is also relatively inexpensive, as it doesn't require you to purchase a new suit to get that perfect fit you're looking for. In some cases, if you purchased your suit from the same tailor, minor adjustments and alterations are complimentary, which further reduces the cost of either too much exercise or too many Christmas parties.

If you need to add or take away a few inches from your waist or add a little more room in your shoulders, the benefits of going to a tailor outweigh any other remedies to potential fitting problems. Although it's easier to take away rather than add a few inches to your suit, a tailor shouldn't encounter anything too insurmountable so long as the adjustments and alterations you need are slight. The turnaround time also tends to be very quick, and you might even be able to pick up

your altered suit on the same day you drop it off, depending on how busy your tailor is at any given time.

The only drawback you might encounter when going to a tailor to adjust your suit measurements is that the changes you require might be impossible due to the physical limitations of your suit's material. In circumstances where the measurements have to be reduced or expanded drastically, it may be more cost-effective to just purchase a new suit rather than pay a tailor to reconstruct a new one out of the suit that you do have.

In most cases, however, the consensus seems to be that going to a tailor to make adjustments is the best option for alterations within a few inches. By doing so when necessary, you will extend the longevity of your suit while you simultaneously save money.

Of course, not all measurement adjustments can be handled by a tailor, and herein lies the sometimes dreaded option of having to buy a brand new suit just so you can get that perfect comfort level you so desire. Whether you lost a ton of weight or decided to bulk up for a body-building competition, buying a new suit—rather than trying to tailor an existing one—might be the better course of action in these scenarios. The process of buying a new suit nowadays is pretty straightforward, and you may not even need to show up to a physical location for the manufacturers and tailors to take your initial measurements.

Even if you could get away with altering a suit you already own, buying a new one has several benefits. When a tailor makes a new suit for you, in theory it will fit

more precisely to your body type as it is right now, without the need to alter, widen, or strip away any suit material at an additional appointment, which will save you time in the process. Buying a new suit will also allow you to upgrade any minor style considerations if you so choose. Maybe you'd rather have peak lapels or an American-style suit rather than a British or Italian one, and vice versa.

The only drawbacks to buying a new suit, of course, are the cost and the possibility that your new suit may not fit you as well in the future, regardless of whether you bulk up or slim down. But that's a risk we all take whenever we buy a suit at any given point in time.

Overall, the consensus when it comes to buying a new suit is that it's a great option for those who want to expand the variety of their wardrobe as well as save time.

We've all been in a bit of a bind as far as formal events go. Your best friend is getting married, and after months of anticipation you realize that your suit is either a little too tight or so loose that your belt won't even effectively hold your pants up, the day before the ceremony. If you didn't plan ahead, there isn't much you can do to remedy a situation like this one, but in some cases, adding or taking away layers to your outfit can be just enough to alleviate any awkward fitting or discomfort.

If your suit is too constricting, consider foregoing an undershirt and do your best to wear a dress shirt that is made from thinner fabrics. A quarter- or half-inch may not seem like much, but that small amount of extra room can make a tighter-

fitting suit a little less uncomfortable, and comfort is important if you have to be wearing one for several hours.

Conversely, if your suit is suddenly too loose after swearing off bread and bacon, you might be better off wearing a thicker undershirt with your attire and a dress shirt that's made from wool or cotton rather than linen or silk.

Adding or subtracting layers to your outfit can be beneficial in that doing so doesn't cost anything at all and also doesn't consume any additional time. However, the drawbacks outweigh the positives in this case. Layering, or stripping them away, tends to work best only when your measurements have changed ever so slightly. Bear in mind that this method is not meant to be a long-term solution, and it should only be used as a temporary fix in last-minute emergency situations. You're better off buying a new suit or going to a tailor, but if those options are not immediately available to you, using layers to adjust the fit slightly is worth at least a try.

In order to give yourself a wider pool of options to choose from when your measurements inevitably fluctuate over time, consider keeping more than just one or two suits in your wardrobe. If your measurements don't change too drastically, this method might be able to eliminate the need to go to a tailor altogether, as multiple suits tend to fit differently from each other by slight degrees. We would caution, however, not to deviate too much from your standard measurements, as buying suits that are too big or too small would be largely pointless; you want suits

that fit you as closely as possible at this moment, not necessarily ones that may or may not fit years or even decades later.

In addition to going up or down a size, having multiple suits at your disposal has the benefit of increasing variety and versatility in your formal attire, and you'll never be short on style no matter what type of event you have to attend, whether you're headed to a black-tie wedding or getting ready for another routine day at the office. All in all, the pros of owning multiple suits go far beyond just the ability to easily go between sizes when your measurements fluctuate.

As it is with buying a new suit, buying multiple suits comes with the potential drawback of being cost-prohibitive. On average, a single person tends to own about a half-dozen suits, so there's no reason to go overboard and buy 50 or 100, unless of course cost and storage are not issues and you want as many style and size permutations as possible. For all practical purposes, however, owning anywhere between 5-10 suits is usually sufficient to fulfill all of your style and fitting needs.

Although buying multiple suits offers a solution to potential measurement fluctuations down the road, at the end of the day, the most effective and balanced way to deal with fitting problems is to do what people have been doing for centuries, and that's simply going to your custom tailor. As most people's measurements only fluctuate slightly over time, in most cases a tailor will be able to handle any adjustments without a problem.

If you've been eyeing a custom suit for some time and want to ensure that your measurements give you an ideal balance between comfort and style, stop into an Enzo Custom showroom or make an online appointment with us, where one of

our expert clothiers will take care of everything you need when it comes to formal wear and achieving that perfect fit

Even suits made with the perfect fit in mind are not immune from the one universal thing that keeps tailors around the globe in business. And that thing would be us, or that annoying tendency for everyone's dimensions and body shape to change over periods of time. It's always disappointing when you have a wedding coming up and your tuxedo no longer is as snug as it used to be, or your best suit barely accommodates a tucked-in dress shirt for an important cocktail party just around the corner. So what can we do about these inconveniences, other than have a wardrobe the size of an entire department store rack?

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