Black-tie events that require a tuxedo are prime opportunities for gentlemen to look their very best.  But what's the first thing that comes to mind when black-tie dress codes or tuxedos are mentioned?  For some it's good vibes, celebration, and James Bond swagger.  For others, it's dread, hassle, and inconvenience.  If you happen to fall into the more pessimistic category, we're confident that we can change your mind by the time you're done reading this piece.

            Unlike many other fashion trends that come and go, the tuxedo—along with the black-tie dress codes that evolved from it—has been a stable staple of gentlemen's formal fashion for over a century.  And just like many old brick and stone buildings still standing today, the tuxedo will probably remain a foundation of fashion for another hundred years.  So if the tuxedo is so ubiquitous in the context of formal events, what is it about the tuxedo that generates so many mixed feelings when the time comes to actually put one on?

            One of the biggest complaints about tuxedos is the lack of comfort they provide compared to custom suits that generally require fewer components and accessories.  While this assumption is certainly not true across the board, tuxedos have, in many ways, earned their occasionally constricting reputation.  As tuxedos are normally worn with suspenders, cummerbunds, waistcoats, and shirts with more snug collar measurements, there are more potential pressure points on a black-tie ensemble that can cause discomfort compared to formal wear that only requires a jacket and a belt, for example.

            But even with these added points of possible discomfort, tuxedos still have the ability to be as comfortable as everyday casual attire.  In this piece, we'll go over some tips and tricks to keep you comfortable in your tuxedo, even in the face of seemingly insurmountable challenges that black-tie accessories can bring to the table.

--What Causes Discomfort--

            Before we delve into the specific comfort issues that can arise from tuxedos, it's helpful to briefly rehash the tuxedo's components to gain a better understanding of what can go wrong.  For the sake of simplicity, we'll start from the bottom up.

            A tuxedo wouldn't be complete without the very things that keep you on steady ground, and in most cases these would be a pair of patent leather shoes, normally worn with a pair of black socks.

            From there going up, tuxedo pants differ slightly from trousers worn with a suit.  Normally they will have a satin stripe going down the sides of each pant leg, closely matching the color of the actual trousers, which in most cases will be black.  In lieu of belt loops, tuxedo pants will have buttons on the inside of the waist so braces—or suspenders as they are more commonly known—can be attached for additional support.

            As a matter of preference, some gentlemen choose to forego suspenders and instead opt for a cummerbund or waistcoat.  While waistcoats can be worn with suspenders so long as the waistcoat is worn over them, it's generally discouraged to wear suspenders with a cummerbund not only from a style standpoint but also from a practical one.  Cummerbunds can provide additional trouser support while simultaneously concealing the bottom part of the shirt placket, so wearing both at the same time is deemed unnecessary.  The less bendable rule, however, applies to cummerbunds and waistcoats; they should never be worn together, as they both share the same aesthetic purpose even though their practical ones are different.

            Tuxedo shirts vary from normal dress shirts worn with suits.  The shirt placket may have pleats and is normally fastened with studs rather than buttons, with the exception of the very top button at the collar and the bottom buttons meant to be tucked into the tuxedo pants or shielded by a cummerbund or waistcoat.  The shirt cuffs are also meant to be fastened with cufflinks rather than buttons to provide aesthetic symmetry between the shirt placket and cuffs.  Studs and cufflinks worn with tuxedo shirts are normally sold as a set and will have nearly identical designs, save the slightly larger size for the cufflinks.  Traditionally, tuxedo shirts come equipped with wingtip collars, although standard and spread collars are slowly becoming more common and acceptable for black-tie affairs.

            One of the most recognizable tuxedo components is the bow tie, and it's normally one of the first things people notice when they differentiate between a suit and a tuxedo.  For many, this component is perhaps the most difficult to master when it comes to the tuxedo, and when it's not properly sized or tied, can be a potential point of discomfort for some people.

            The dinner jacket, or tuxedo jacket, is usually going to come equipped with satin lapels in order to match the satin stripes on the tuxedo trousers.  The jacket may have one vent or no vent at all and should exactly match the color of the trousers.

            Although pocket squares are optional, they can be useful tools to accentuate and elevate the uniform style of a traditional black tuxedo.  Lapel pins can also be used for the same purpose, but we would advise against wearing any pins that are too large or conspicuous.  As far as lapel pins go, if you choose to wear one at all, less is always certainly more.

            All of the above aforementioned tuxedo components—with the exception of pocket squares and lapel pins—have the potential to be points of discomfort on any given black-tie ensemble.  Over-starched shirts can cause itchiness, waistcoats can cause a tuxedo to feel too bunchy, and a bow tie that's not adjusted properly can make a collar feel particularly constricting.  More importantly, however, comfort has less to do with individual components and more to do with how each component was measured and how they all fit together collectively.  When it comes to tuxedos, correct measurements and proper tailoring supersede everything else.  While exact measurements are vital for custom suits, they are even more so for tuxedos as they have more components and, therefore, more things that can go wrong.

            Most gentlemen will agree that custom suits tailored to their specific body dimensions will be more comfortable than suits and tuxedos purchased off the rack from a department store.  In theory, a tux that's measured and tailored properly should not be uncomfortable to wear.  This is why here at Enzo Custom, we cannot stress enough the importance of getting properly fitted, as it is the number-one factor that will determine a person's comfort level in any given custom suit or tuxedo.

--Specific Issues and How To Fix Them--

            Unfortunately, even if your tuxedo was properly measured to your dimensions when you purchased it, the overall comfort of your tuxedo may change as your measurements do, especially over longer periods of time.  While quick adjustments from a tailor can remedy any glaring issues with discomfort, some fixes can be done much more easily, and this is a very good thing to keep in mind if time is of the essence.

--Shoes--

            Patent leather shoes aren't exactly known for their superior comfort level.  While this varies between brands and manufacturers, the leather tends to be less flexible than it is on other types of dress shoes.  If it feels like the inner parts of your shoes are digging into your heels or causing too much friction on the tops of your feet, you may want to go up a size or wear a thicker pair of socks to reduce the chances you'll end up with blisters after a long night at a wedding or black-tie dinner.  Another fix for uncomfortable shoes involves a little bit of prevention rather than a cure.  Once you get a pair of patent leather shoes, you might want to try wearing them a few times before you need them for a black-tie outing, as this will help to break them in a bit in spite of their noticeable rigidity.  You'll also be able to judge their comfort level and adjust your sock thickness accordingly.

--Collars and Bow Ties--

            When done correctly, a bow tie really does bring a tuxedo full circle.  But bow ties can also cause issues with both comfort and patience, as getting it just right isn't always a walk in the park.  If your collar is too big, it's close to impossible to get a bow tie to stay in its place without looking awkward or a little off.  Conversely, if your collar is too tight, you'll probably have to go tighter on your bow tie as well so it doesn't sag below the neckline and leave the very top button of your shirt visible.  In the case of bow ties and collars, proper measurements are vital in order to achieve maximum comfort.  However, if the discrepancy between your actual neck measurements and your shirt collar aren't too drastic, the adjustable feature on most bow ties sold today just might save your outfit.  It will take some trial and error on your part as you'll need to balance the symmetry of your bow tie with your desired comfort level, but in most cases you'll be able to find a happy medium between those two considerations without compromising style.  Just try not to put on your bow tie at the very last minute, as it's always a good habit to leave extra time for a tuxedo's more stubborn components.

--Shirts--

            While tuxedo shirts will afford you more leeway in terms of slight size discrepancies, it's still best to find a shirt that fits your body type as closely as possible to avoid any bunching or comfort issues.  But aside from fitting problems, dress shirts, in particular those meant for tuxedos, can cause another common issue unrelated to fitting.  Dress shirts, especially if they're starched too heavily, can feel abrasive on the skin, and this is more likely to occur the longer they are worn on a given day.  If you're skin is particularly sensitive, your best options are to either go a little easier on the starch or simply wear an undershirt, as this will minimize any direct contact your skin has with your dress shirt.  As an added bonus, your dress shirts will end up lasting longer. Undershirts are able to pull away moisture from your body while at the same time isolating that moisture from your more expensive garments.

--Tuxedos and Perceived Heaviness--

             Sometimes tuxedos can feel a bit uncomfortable even if you are unable to narrow down the source of the discomfort to one component in particular.  In such a case, in order to alleviate that heavy feeling, your best bet here is to wear your tuxedo with fewer components.  In lieu of a waistcoat, consider a cummerbund or wearing your tuxedo bare.  If you choose the latter route, we still recommend wearing suspenders with a bare tuxedo, as this will provide additional support for your trousers.

            Whether you're looking for a brand new custom tuxedo or just need to accessorize the one you already have, Enzo Custom has you covered.  Make an appointment with us today and our clothiers will be more than happy to get you started with the fitting process in one of our showrooms.  If you feel more comfortable at home, you can also hold your appointment with us via videoconference.