Picture yourself getting ready for another day at the office or a formal night out. Once you've put on your suit and fastened your tie to your liking, the last thing you probably do before you head out the door is check your pockets for your keys, wallet, glasses, cell phone, and maybe a few business cards. For most of us, we do this automatically without even thinking about it. In both formal and casual realms, pockets have been standard features on most articles of clothing, and as a result, even if we don't realize it, we tend to take them for granted. The ease at which we carry our personal items with us today, however, was not always a given.
Prior to the 17th century, pockets were rather rare, and personal items were instead carried attached to the belt or in a separate bag or purse that the person would take with them. Of course this practice had its disadvantages, especially at the dawn of rapid industrialization and urban growth. Without pockets, personal items were easy targets for thieves. When sewn-in pockets became more commonplace, personal items were carried closer to the body, thereby reducing the chances of a person falling victim to theft. Although thieves became more creative to counteract this new invention and pick-pocketing became somewhat of an art form, sewn-in pockets made it easier to walk through crowded streets without having to worry as much about personal items going missing. Over time, pockets became even more inconspicuous as they were sewn into fabrics rather than attached to the outside of the garment.
In the last hundred years or so, pockets in men's formal wear have remained relatively standard and consistent. Most suit jackets now come equipped with inside pockets that aren't visible from the outside of the fabric at all; while the main benefit of this is concealment, inside pockets have had another less obvious unintended consequence, as more of us are required to carry more stuff with us than we were 20 or 30 years ago. Trying to cram keys, wallets, and cell phones into outside pockets would translate into a potential style faux pas, as doing so might make a suit look like it's bulging at the seams. So until we figure out a way to carry everything with us in a single device or digital signal embedded into our watches, pockets are here to stay for the time being. In this article we'll go over the different pocket types and how you can best utilize them to keep yourself looking sharp, even when you're required to carry so many things that you may find yourself feeling like a ticket scalper.
--Standard Pockets on Formal Jackets--
By and large, the most common types of pockets found on suit jackets are flap pockets and patch pockets. Although both types are similarly placed toward the bottom sides of the jacket, they differ in how they are sewn onto the garment. Patch pockets are clearly visible from the outside of the jacket, as the pocket is fixed on the outer part of the jacket whereas flap pockets are sewn into the fabric, concealing the pocket's outline. As the name clearly suggests, flap pockets are easily recognizable by the flap at the top of the pocket, originally intended to keep outside elements (dust, debris, etc.) from getting onto the pocket's contents.
While both types serve the same functional purpose, flap pockets are the more formal of the two, and these days it's pretty rare to find patch pockets on a formal suit. They're more appropriate for other types of less formal outerwear, such as sport coats and overcoats. Flap pockets are beneficial when it comes to formal wear because they present less visual interruption of a suit's style and symmetry. Although patch pockets are easier to stitch onto a jacket, their conspicuous outlines detract from their usefulness in the context of formal occasions.
Jetted pockets, like flap pockets, are sewn into the jacket so the pocket outline cannot be seen from the outside. However, the top of the pocket only contains a slit rather than a flap for a more streamlined, symmetrical appearance. Keeping with the mantra of less is more, jetted pockets are considered to be more formal than flap pockets, and some gentlemen prefer to turn their existing flap pockets into jetted ones by folding the outside flap into the pocket for a sleeker look. While many prefer the look of a suit that minimizes excess material attached to it, the only real downside of jetted pockets is that they tend to be a little smaller than their flapped counterparts. So if you're the type of person who tends to carry around a lot of personal items with you, you might want to opt for flap pockets instead.
Almost all varieties of formal jackets come with a breast pocket, normally placed on the left side next to the center of the jacket lapel. At one point in time, the breast pocket served the functional purpose of keeping personal handkerchiefs separate from other items a person may have been carrying. These days, the breast pocket is largely cosmetic, serving only as a way to carry another ornamental addition to a formal ensemble that also evolved from the handkerchief. Pocket squares have largely abandoned their original intended purpose and instead come in an array of patterns and colors that add a tinge of charm to one's formal wear. If you choose to don a pocket square, be sure to fold them carefully, as breast pockets tend to be narrow and can bulge if a pocket square is stuffed into it haphazardly.
While breast pockets remain a staple of formal wear, the ticket pocket has largely disappeared. Originally designed to hold train tickets when traveling, the ticket pocket was generally placed just above the right flap pocket of a person's jacket for easy access. Although some jackets still retain this relic of a bygone era, they are most commonly seen on overcoats and jackets designed for more casual affairs. The placement of the ticket pocket just above the right flap or jetted pocket can throw off a jacket's symmetry, thereby reducing its usefulness in formal settings.
One would be hard-pressed to find any suits, blazers, or other articles of formal outerwear without inside pockets these days, and if anything they've become more common and more numerous. From its obviously appropriate name, the inside pocket is by far the most inconspicuous pocket type, as neither the opening nor the pocket itself can be seen from the outside of the jacket. The main benefit of having inside pockets is the heightened privacy and security of your personal items. Inside pockets allow you to carry your personal items very close to your body and away from plain view, so you can put your mind at ease even if you have to walk through large crowds of people to catch your next train home.
At the bare minimum, most suit jackets will have an inside pocket placed on the left side of the jacket right behind the breast pocket. But today it's more common to have two inside pockets, with one on each side. Some suit jackets may even have more. As it is also the pocket type with the most versatility, the inside pocket can be used for just about anything, whether you need space for your cell phone, business cards, extra pens, notepads, credit cards, travel documents, or cash. Bear in mind, however, that it's best not to overload them, as any bulges your personal items may cause will be visible from the outer fabric of the jacket and detract from a suit's aesthetic qualities.
--Pants Pockets--
Just as it would be difficult to find any suit jackets without inside pockets, it would be nearly impossible to come across a pair of formal trousers that didn't have back pockets. While some gentlemen insist on carrying their wallets in one of their back pockets due to habit or ease of access, we would caution against this practice. For one, having to sit on your wallet is uncomfortable, especially for lengthy periods of time. Also, carrying any valuables in your back pocket makes them more prone to theft, as a person will be less likely to notice something missing from there, especially in dense crowds.
For essential personal items such as wallets or keys, you're better off carrying them in your front pockets. As far as front pants pockets go, the slant pocket is by far the most common. The pocket opening is set at an angle from the pant seams, making it easy to slide your hands right in so you can grab whatever you might need.
Vertical pockets are functionally the same as slant pockets, with one subtle yet important distinction. The openings of these pockets are parallel to the pant seams, which allow for a sleeker, more uniform look. As a result, vertical pockets tend to be considered the more formal of the two.
In the context of formal wear, coin pockets and frogmouth pockets are relatively nonexistent, but they're worth mentioning nonetheless. The openings of frogmouth pockets are placed horizontally across the front of the pants, and this noticeable feature limits their use in formal settings. In spite of their relative rarity, you'll be more likely to find frogmouth pockets (or variations thereof) on corduroy pants and jeans. The same is true for the small coin pocket, usually visible above the opening of the right front pocket if it's present at all. It's unlikely that you'll see coin pockets on formal trousers, but this useful addition is common on many brands of jeans as a way to keep your change from getting mixed up in your wallet or billfold.
While there are many components and style considerations that go into creating custom suits, pockets will always remain one of the most vital and functional parts of them. Here at Enzo Custom, our expert clothiers will always help you balance functionality with style. Whether you need extra inside pockets or want to give yourself a little more room for a pocket square, we've got you covered.